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Anybody who is paying ATTENTION would. Insurance, ownership, etc., are all affected. I'll bet there was some option on the car you didn't get that is not on the car you did get. Read the documents folks!
now, there are ADDENDUM stickers that some dealers add to vehicles for pinstriping, simoniz, additional market value markup, etc - but those are seperate from the Monroney stickers that are federally mandated
-thene
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I usually have the VIN right there with me at signing (right it down off the car at some point) because I've already used it to check insurance....and I can double-check all the paperwork. However, I can see that someone who isn't worried about insurance and had no reason to get the VIN may not even think to check it on the paperwork.
i once priced out and sold a vehicle that i thought was an automatic transmission - and then found out it was manual, and had to eat the difference and change the VIN when i contacted the person. sometimes things happen - and dealers and salespeople arent ALWAYS trying to screw someone - people make mistakes! give them the benefit of the doubt, and the chance to make it right.
on the other hand, regarding that paperwork that allows them to come up with whatever they want on financing - i've never heard of such a thing, and i wouldn't have signed it without knowing what it was i was signing. did they explain that form to you? good luck getting everything straightened out!
-thene
I did a 500 unit fleet deal and 3 of the 500 were posted incorrectly from the factory with the incorrect Vin#'s .. what is really important is to check all of the options and make sure they're correct, in my case the slider was not shown on the MSRP even though 2 had one .. now it didn't effect the fleet cost "across" the board, but could have been a problem with a regular buyer ..l.o.l.....
Like someone has mentioned, call the Ins co with the correct Vin# and the dealer will have the lender do a direct exchange on the phone, but you would be covered because it's a paper mistake, it could have even been computer mistake in-house -- who nows.? .....
Terry.
Terry.
The cust. sat. survey is your wild card, not the messed up VIN. that will get taken care of and it sounds like your almost there.
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I'd kindly remind them of your fears about the interest rate and tell them it will be reflected on the cust. sat. survey.......i.e. low interest rate = great cust. sat. survey.
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You get the VIN mixup straightened out and also get a low interest rate, and they get a good survey.....a win win.....
You need to do this today BEFORE they put it thru their bank.
The price is okay, so I didn’t negotiate. I just wanted to save both my and the dealer’s time. I brought my transcript and diploma, and the dealer made a copy and confirmed the rebate again. Hence, I sat down and begun doing the paperwork. I was very carefully when I signed first several documents. Before I signed, I checked the price. Somehow, the dealer suggested me calling my insurance to add the new car in. After the call, he let me sign the rest documents. While I was continuing signing, I suddenly found that I was signing another contract, which has no rebate! The final price is $750 higher than the first contract I signed. The dealer said, “Your supporting documents look good for the rebate. But it comes from Toyota. If your rebate is rejected by Toyota, you have to pay the second price. That’s why you should sign two contracts.” It’s ridiculous! I called my friends right way, who just bought toyato couple of months ago. None of them signed two contracts, although some of them only got $400 graduation rebate. I refused to sign the second contract. The dealer said that “if you don’t want to sign the second one, you can give us a $750 check now. If your rebated is approved by Toyota, we will not cash it. ” He claimed that it’s a rule to all the customers, not only to me. I don’t believe him, and the deal is broken.
Now I am so worried about the first purchase and financial contract I signed. Before I left their office, the dealer took away all the documents. I asked him. He said, the documents will be void, since I didn’t pay the down payment, the whole process is not done. I didn’t buy and he didn’t sell. Is it true? Will it give me trouble later??? Anybody has the same experience? Thanks
In the future, the way to handle it would be to sign only the first contract, and tell them you will not take delivery until Toyota makes a decision. If it is approved, you will go ahead with the deal. If it is not, you want your deposit back that day. If they don't agree to those terms, find another dealer.
As far as the VIN # discrepency goes, 999 chances out of 1000 that was just an honest mistake. Switching cars in mid-negotiation, and just plain old human error cause this kind of thing much more regularly than you'd think. However, you need to have the dealership print new paperwork with the correct VIN # on it and go in and resign them. If you don't, you're going to have a host of ownership problems down the road--i.e. registration, titling, personal property tax, resale, trade in, etc. If the dealership tells you that they "took care of it" for you, what that really means is that they didn't want to risk calling you back in to resign for fear that you would back out of the deal, and so they printed new paperwork with the correct VIN and forged your signature and sent it in--since the price and payments won't change, the chances that you'd ever find out without someone like me telling you are slim to none.
Now, the document you're so concerned about is a called an "Avidavit of Spot Delivery". Contrary to your first impression, it does NOT give the dealership the authority to change your interest rate. It is a standard document used in many states to protect the dealership when they contract a customer whose financing has not been officially approved yet--after banking hours, Saturday and Sunday, etc. All it really does is insure that if, for some reason, your financing is declined or the terms change, you are legally obligated to return the car to them. For example, I look at your credit and feel that on Monday morning, my favorite bank will approve you for 6% interest. It's Saturday evening and the bank is closed, but I don't want you to leave without signing the dotted line. I have you sign the Spot form and on Monday, the bank approves the loan, but at 7% interest instead. Well, the Spot form will NOT allow me to change your rate. You would have to come in and resign a new contract. However, the form DOES give me the right to give you an ultimatum--resign at the new rate, or return the car. The old contract is now null and void.
Now, for the guy whose dealership asked him to sign 2 contracts--RUN!! Run as fast and as far as you can! This is a VERY old-school car salesman trick that went out of vogue with tail-fins and sock-hops. Even if they tell you that your rebate has been approved, DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THAT DEALERSHIP. If they would try that old--hack stuff with you, there is no limit to the lines that they would cross.
>"Avidavit of Spot Delivery".
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
But we are better at numbers than speeling in most cases.
It has aslo been brghout to my atneiton taht no mtater how you atclulay spell msot wrods in the Egnilsh lnauage, poelpe can slitl raed it as lnog as the frsit and lsat ltetres are in the crorcet odrer.
I know where you work (I'm in St. Louis), and you're a legit organization. Glad to have you here, and thanks for the advice you're giving to our members who are shopping.
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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Thx for clearing up the issues with the affidavit, makes perfect sense to me. I'm sure the issues you brought up were spelled out in the paper work, but the original poster failed to mention them.
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It does bring up a question though, let's say I bought Fri night, banks are closed, Monday is a holiday and I take a loooooong weekend drive and put on about 1000 miles. Tuesday the bank says no way to 6%, best they can do is 9% for example. Would the dealer want to take back a used car with 1000 miles?
which brings me to this contrived (?) question, since i'm sure it never happens: if the F+I rep puts down the wrong figures and the customer signs, (say they are wrong to the customer's advantage, or to the dealers advantage - either way), what is the standard and proper procedure to make the situation right?
Dang.! .. another word I have to look up ....
Terry.
Then again there was another time when a different dealer deliberately extended the first month's payment on a loan to 45 days, resulting in a larger monthly payment. This I caught in the F&I office and was none too pleased about it. :mad: My next car wasn't bought from them (I went to the guys at the top of this post instead) and I liked the replacement car much better too.
And if there's any spelling mistakes, too bad, I can't type (but I can spell :P )
Dang.! .. another word I have to look up ....
At least it's a short one...... </;^)
Mark
First...The average delivery (the time you spend with the F&I manager) takes approximately 30 minutes. So, 20 deals would take approximately 10 hours if they were perfectly spaced. The problem is, they're not. Usually, we all sit around twiddling our thumbs for 8 out of 12 hours, and then 7 deals close within a 20 minute time span. The customers are all cranky and tired because they've just spent 2 hours with the "evil salesman" and agreed to drop 30 thousand dollars of their hard earned money. Everyone wants to get in and out as quickly as possible. The F&I guy is printing paperwork at roughly the speed of light trying to keep up with the rush, prevent shaky customers with buyer's remorse from having time to back out, prepare his pitch on after-sale products (warranties, insurance, etc.), go fast enough that the customer doesn't grill the dealership on the satisfaction survey, and still accurately process 10-20 pieces of legal paperwork. Mistakes happen. I mean, think about it for a second...If the cashier at your local gas station can screw up the change on a $10 transaction, then perhaps you should be a little more understanding if a "t" doesn't get crossed or an "i" doesn't get dotted. As far as the "office help" goes...HA!! Maybe I'm alone here, but our office help never touches the deal until at least 24 hours after the paperwork has been signed, and then, I'm lucky if they don't lose your $15,000 check. Being an F&I manager is like like being a stock broker or a loan officer with the unpredictable rushes and customer temper issues of a short order cook. I know, "boo-hoo the poor car salesman". I'm not complaining. I love my job and I'm well compensated for it, but for someone to imply that mistakes are the result of incompetence or laziness is simply ridiculous. Mistakes are the exception, not the rule, but understanding and tolerance are appreciated as much in our business as they are in any other.
Terry :shades:
That said, there can be alot of changes in the finance office ....
Maybe the folks have decided to go from 48 months to 66 (or vice versa), perhaps they decided to get the extended warranty then changed their minds in the middle of everything, or they decide to take the warranty 10 minutes after signing everything and all of it has to be redone, maybe the pay-off was incorrect by $453.27 and the whole deal has to be reworked and reprinted - and lets hope we don't have a customer that wants to use a different home address so he can save tax money and someone has to spend 17 minutes "splaining" how "you can't do that" ...l.o.l....
There is a whole potpourri of things that can and do go on - maybe the the customer even changed their minds and want the red one, so you never know ... then, depending on the deal, you have to wait for the final approval from the lender to make sure there isn't any "stips" or a "condition" .... then the finance department will check and "wash" the deal -- it gets busy in there ....
Terry
We can overlook shortage of paragraphs because the spelling is great!
On serious note: I am amazed at the frustration some posts show on the part of people selling the cars. I'd always thought I'd try a car sales job after I retired. But it sounds a little heavy on the stress for me now.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Same here. Or even work at Carmax part time. But I'd believe that Carmax is less stressful since the car price is set.
-Dan-
You must clarify here. The correct description would be "at the speed of light in total darkness"
The local Cadillac dealer F&I office prints out all the paperwork on a gigantic DOT MATRIX printer, and we all know how fast those things are, right up there with a stone & chisel :P
Thank God for
spel, spul, spalspell check .....Terry :P
I guess I was thinking of my last two transactions which have been very simple.
I find the car I want on the lot or order it, make the deal with the salesman---test drive, etc.
I am then sent back to the clerk at the desk running the computer paperwork, I have a check in hand, I sign paperwork, I give the clerk the check and then I go outside for the salesman to show me my new car.
I've never been offered long spiels about extra warranties or add-on's of any kind. They make it simple.
QUESTION... rroyce10, what kind of dealerships to you have (brands)?
Mark
I'm not criticizing the dot matrix printer. This is actually a use for which it excells and for which, a laser or inkjet would just cause a mess with all the multipart forms, some of which need to be signed. You'd need to hire a collater! It's just the size of that one in the F&I office. It prints out about a 20" square sheet (maybe a bit smaller
Let's not ovelook that many of the little POS terminals are actually little DM printers!
And Kirsty don't go deleting this post either!
Point
Of
Sale
not the other POS!
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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I would not be that worried about the contract. That is because the contract did include the deal that you wanted so if they try to hold you to it, it wont be bad for you. The reason they took the contract away is so you dont keep a copy of it, because the dealership is bound by a contract as much as you are and if they let you have a copy you might make them give you a car with the 750 rebate.
If you want to buy another car and are worried about that contract coming back to haunt you, send a signed letter saying that because THEY refused to give you the car for the price you wanted you do not consider yourself bound by the contract. Make sure that the letter makes it clear that the dealership were the ones that broke the deal not you. Keep a copy of the letter for yourself.
I would also send a letter to Toyota explaining just how the dealer treated you and how pissed off you are. Toyota does not like having their customers chased out of storerooms by greedy dealers so they will make sure to punish the dealership accordingly.
If you have some extra time and want to annoy them, you can go in and say that you spoke to your dad or something and found out that you have a right to get the car according to the first contract with the rebate. Nothing will really come out of it because you dont have a copy of the contract and they will probably destroy theirs. But it will annoy them for sure.