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Mazda Millenia



  • mills01mills01 Posts: 3
    History - Just about a year ago I had the check engine light ON as a result of a faulty SC - according to the Dealer.
    Since then I had to put four quarts of OIL every 1000 mi ( approx ) until recently. In the last month I see a change in the pattern with OIL LOW light coming ON every week. I put four quarts last Monday, I might have driven for three days during the week (approx 100mi) and this morning ( Monday) on my way to work I had the OIL light come up. It took four quarts again.

    I was told a Used - SC is $4500. Is that true?

  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    google for "used mazda parts" but don't use the quote marks. This might give you a start.

    1995 Turbocharger/Supercharger 16117 $1400
    Standard Auto Recycling USA-CA(Chula-Vista) 1-619-426-1166
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    I go to eBay (Mazda MIllenia). There was a used supercharger there about a week ago and it sure as heck wasn't $4500 by a long shot. eBay is a good spot to check on a regular basis for Millenia stuff - just keep away from the microchips that promise an extra 10 to 20hp. They are simply resistors and will boost brake hp by no more than 3 hp if that. Lots of used keyless remotes there all the time. Got my extra there and works like a dream. fairwood
  • misty8misty8 Posts: 15
    Fairwood: In your July 20 posting you stated "Don't try to save money by using the cheapest gas you can find; stay with the recommended premium. The cost difference over a year of normal driving (10 to 12 thousand miles) is perhaps $50 or $60." I used to think the same thing. However, my 99 P recently misfired from a cold start and the Check Engine Light came on. When I took it to the dealer I was informed that there is a service bulletin recommending that only regular octane gas should be used in the base model. The use of premium grade can cause engine misfires during cold starts. I've switched to regular and I have not noticed any performance problems.
  • billyperksbillyperks Posts: 449
    That's dealer baloney-did you actually see the bulletin?
    I had a 99p (pearl white) and all I fed it was 93octane.
    The car was solid as a bullet for the 39 months I had it.
  • misty8misty8 Posts: 15
    Bulletin No: 01-027/02


    All 1995 - 2002 Millenia models with 2.5L V6 (KL)


    After a cold start, MIL comes on with DTC P0300 to P0306 stored in the memory. In most cases, this concern may be caused by misfire occurring in one cylinder during idle. The use of premium fuel (high-octane fuel) may be allowing carbon deposits to accumulate on the exhaust valve seat, causing momentary insufficient compression.

    To correct this concern, remove carbon deposits using a suitable top engine cleaner.

    Note: After removing the carbon deposits, be sure to advise the customer to use lower-octane fuel (87 or 89 octane) to help prevent future recurrences.

    This doesn't sound like dealer baloney to me.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I've been argued with for recommending the use of 87 octane in the P model. Mine now has about 12000 miles on it all on 87 octane except the first dealer fillup.

    People just can't seem to understand that the only reason for a higher octane fuel is if the engine pings or knocks. Mine has never done either, and runs perfectly under all conditions. That old high octane fable, that your car will run better, has been around as long as there has been more than one grade of fuel and the oil companies could charge more for it. There is actually less energy in high octane gasoline than in the cheaper stuff. That is because the anti-knock additives displace some of the exact same fuel that you pay less for.

    I checked AllData for 2001 Mazda MMP: That is TSB #5

       1. 0700103 MAY 03 A/C - Musty/Mildew Type Odors
       2. 0800103 MAY 03 Air Bag System - Parts Replacement After Deployment
       3. 0700402 APR 03 A/C - Musty/Mildew Odors
       4. S01898 APR 03 Body - Wind Noise Around Doors
       5. 0102702 APR 03 Engine - MIL ON/ DTC's P0300 - P0306 Set
       6. 0102902 APR 03 Exhaust System - Sulfur Smell
       7. 0100701 APR 03 Fuel System - MIL ON/DTCP1455/Erratic Gauge Readings
       8. 0901000 APR 03 Keyless Entry - Transmitter Battery Inspection
       9. 0600103 APR 03 Steering Column - Stuck in 'UP' Position
      10. 0200401 APR 03 Wheels - Chrome Wheel Rusting
      11. 0700102R DEC 02 A/C - Water Leaks onto Passenger Floor
      12. 0100701R AUG 02 Fuel System - MIL ON/Fuel Gauge Inaccurate/Erratic
      13. 0700302 MAY 02 A/C - Cabin Air Filter Replacement
      14. 0700202 APR 02 A/C - Lack of Heat in Passenger Compartment
      15. 0101302 APR 02 Fuel System - Fuel Injector Replacement Guidelines
      16. 0100602 FEB 02 Fuel System - Fuel Pump/Component Replacement Guidelines
      17. 0901801 DEC 01 Accessories - Keyless Entry Service Information
      18. 0600101R1 NOV 01 Steering - Tilt Steering Wheel Inoperative
      19. 0900701 OCT 01 Audio System - Radio Removal Precautions
      20. 0101601 OCT 01 Fuel System - Difficult Fuel Pump Installation
      21. 0200401R AUG 01 Wheels - 17 Inch Chrome Wheel Corrosion
      22. 0500101 APR 01 A/T - Whining/Ringing Noise in Interior
      23. 0900700 JUL 00 Interior - Cigarette Lighter Does Not Work Properly

    Thanks for that enlightening information misty8
  • I straddle the fence and use a lot of 89/90 octane. In the midwest there is an abundance of these grades with 10% ethanol. As a bonus they are generally only 1 cent more or in some corn belt states the same price where tax credits are in place.

    People debate gas-a-hol, but it does keep things cleaner. My brother was in the convience store business for many years. He has seen first hand how much cleaner the inner workings of an old pump are that dispensed blended fuel.

    I also think much of the call for premium is pure snob appeal. Honda and Acura share engines that are tweeked here and there, but all Acuras call for premium, not the case with Honda. Just being snobish IMHO.
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    Haven't seen any posts here for some days and I came today to post a question and found the interesting posts on what octane gas to use. This arguement or discussion will go on as long as there are choices. Interesting posts, all of them. Personally I have a mental block regarding ethanol, going back to "horror stories" some years ago when it was first introduced. It was softening or swelling neoprene gaskets, seals etc with the resultant costs associated with that. I stopped using Sunoco some years ago because they are using ethanol in Canada as well as USA. Also stopped using BP in USA for same reason. My wife's two wheelchair vans (a VW then a Voyager) cried out for it like kids for candy! Now for the reason I came here in the first place today: My engine temp gauge (2000 Millenia S, 2.3 supercharged) always sits about 1/16 inch below the half way mark even when driven hard for extended periods. Seems a little low even though there are no markers, just E and F. I am wondering about winter heater efficiency. This will be my first experience with winter in 10 years. Never had to worry about snow, cold, ice, etc in Florida did we fwatson? fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    You mean your temperature is either Empty or Full? ;-)

    My '01 P runs slightly below the middle of the gauge. I leave the Climate Control on auto 76degrees year round, and it heats and cools as it should. Of course it doesn't get -30 here, but the HVAC system seems very well thought out, so I am sure it will not leave you cold. In Canada, you should also have the optional bunn warmer.
  • #noname#noname Posts: 58
    OK fwatson,you caught me with what you refered to as a "finger fart" a few posts back. H and C would do it of course. Looks like your temp gauge is sitting about the same as mine. Anyone else? And yes both front seats have seat warmers. I worked with a fellow many years ago and he had a 1983 Audi 4000 with driver's seat heater. The seat thermostat stopped working one day and that funny smell was his pants burning or scorching. Live and learn (live and burn?).
  • csuftitanscsuftitans Posts: 215
    My 2000 Mill S engine temp also never goes past the middle marker, always a litlle bit below it, no matter how hot the weather is. Is this mean the radiator on this car is really really good?. BTW, my seat warmer hasn't been working the past few months (not that I needed it), anyone has any thoughts as to where I should start to look first to fix this. It's not the fuse, I checked those already and since the car is out of warranty already, I'm trying to not go to the dealer just for this. Thanks.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    But if you have cleaned under the seat you may have caught on the wire feeding the seat and unplugged a connector. All the ones I have seen are plugged in somewhere under the seat itself. Also if you can locate that connector you can check for 12 volts there. If you have power to the seat, and it doesn't heat, oh well. Probably time to learn to live without it.
  • un_yzun_yz Posts: 12
    Mine is a 2002 S, the temp gauge sits just below the middle. I haven't seen it to move.
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    There was a post on another section here earlier today and the web host suggested that the writer repost here which has not been done as I write this. Anyway, this question of the very expensive replacement of the timing belt in Millenias in general and the S models in particular crops up from time to time. Yes it is a very expensive servicing. First off, to avoid confusion with imperial and metric measurements let's establish that we will talk about miles, not kilometers. Also I will be talking about a 2000 MM S because that is where I have first hand knowledge. On page 8-3 (Maintenance) of my manual it says: "Engine Timing Belt: Replace every 60,000 miles EXCEPT for vehicles registered in California; New York; Massachusetts; Connecticut; Vermont; New Jersey; Rhode Island; Delaware; Maryland; New Hampshire; Penn; Virginia; Maine and Washington DC." The recommended service for vehicles INITIALLY registered in the above states is to INSPECT the belt at 60,000 miles, inspect again at 90,000 miles and then REPLACE belt at 105,000 miles. Now what do you suppose is the difference in cars sold in the above states and cars sold in Ohio; Florida; Georgia; Idaho; province of Ontario, Canada etc. The short answer is NONE. Subtle differences in other engine and exhaust areas have no direct or even indirect bearing on the timing belt condition. The rule of thumb here is 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'. Changing the oil and filter on a regular basis, maintaining proper tire air pressure, checking and/or replacing the air filter when due will do more to keep your Millenia in top condition than changing the timing belt because the car has chocked up 60,000 miles. If you feel confident that your car is functioning as expected then don't go looking for trouble. Should the belt break, no harm will come to the engine, it simply will not run. There is a description of this type of engine, the name escapes me at the moment, but it is not of the type that would be damaged if a regular timing chain were to break. Hopefully this will open up a discussion panel here, too bad the bar isn't open. fairwood
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    There has also been some discussion here recently about the use of regular versus premium gas in Millenias. fwatson has used regular with no problems while others (myself included) stay with premium grade. I recently purchased a 26 page brochure for the 1999 Millenias on eBay. I purchased it at a reasonable price just for a keepsake, although my MM S is a 2000 model. The differences between a 1999 and a 2000 are minimal. The Features section in the 1999 brochure states: "Recommended fuel for the 2.5L DOHC 24-valve V6 is REGULAR unleaded gasoline and for the 2.3L Miller Cycle supercharged engine is PREMIUM unleaded gasoline. So fwatson, you have been using regular grade with no problems and that is likely because you have the P model, not the supercharged engine. The 2000 brochure is a little foggier. For the P or 2.5L engine premium is RECOMMENDED while for the 2.3L supercharged engine, premium is REQUIRED. So the beat goes on, the questions remain but hopefully the above will help clear up any differences of opinion. As with anything - if all else fails, READ THE MANUAL. fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    "There is a description of this type of engine, the name escapes me at the moment,"

    It is a "non-interference" engine, meaning if the valves get out of time they will not collide with the pistons.

    My 2001 P does not call for replacement until 105000 nationwide. Check the Gates Rubber site for a chart.

    " if all else fails, READ THE MANUAL. fairwood"

    I have read the entire manual and am aware of the "Recommended" vs "Required" fuel entry. There is also a label at the fuel filler with the same information. I think the Primium requirement on the S is due to the increased pressure of the air entering the cylinders. On both models though, the engine computer is capable of automatically changing the timing to compensate for octane. But while I lose no performance from that on my P, you might see a difference on the S.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    This is from a pdf I got from Gates a year or more ago. It only shows the Miller through '00 and the P through '01.

    The "T" numbers are recommended belts, and none of the Millenias have interferrence engines. As you can see, the exact belt number is recommended whether California or Federal.



    1995-96 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 60,000 Federal 105,000 Federal

    1997-00 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 105,000

    1997-00 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 60,000

    1995-96 2.5L V6 T214 60,000 Federal 105,000 Federal

    1997-00 2.5L V6 T214 105,000

    1997-00 2.5L V6 T214 60,000

    2001 2.5L V6 T214 105,000
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639


    2.3L V6---------NO----------(32)
    2.5L V6---------NO----------(32)

    Notes: (32)

    On 1996 & prior models, replace every 60,000 miles.

    On 1997-98 CA & MA vehicles, belt inspection at 60,000 miles, then again at 90,000 miles, is recommended but not required, but it should be replaced at 105,000 miles.

    On all other 1997-98 models, replace every 60,000 miles.

    On 1999 & later CA, CT, DE, DC, ME, MD, MA, NH, NJ, NY, PA, RI, VT & VA vehicles belt inspection at 60,000 miles, then again at 90,000 miles, is recommended but not required, but it should be replaced at 105,000 miles.

    On all other 1999 & later models replace every 60,000 miles.


    The charts do not completely agree. But it is easy to see that the only reason for the 60000 mile changes on newer models is because they can get away with it. I can see no reason, given our engines are non-interference, that the belt needs changed before 105000, and you might get by never changing it. The worse that can happen is that the car would quit running. Of course you might have to walk home if that happened. ;-)
  • Thanks for the info. I think I will keep my cell phone well charged and press my luck for a while. The car runs like a dream. I would hate to do anything that would possibly cause a decline in the performance - especially when the the replacement is not absolutely necessary at 60k. I trust the dealership that would replace the belt - it just seems that this is a rather difficult repair to complete with 100% success. I don't have time right now to deal with returning to the shop for corrections and tweaks. Is it true that the entire engine must come out for this repair?
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    fwatson: Did I detect a little anger in your reply #2547? Sure hope not since you and I seem to agree on most things. "if all else fails, read the manual" of course is an old standard saying and was not aimed at anyone in particular or in general. Yes I am having more and more old timers attacks, like the comedian said "the nouns are the first thing to go". Adjectives come easy as in"what's that stupid thing called?". With the latest jump in gas prices in North America my premium gas just jumped to $4.04 per imperial gallon in Canadian dollars which equates to about $2.83 U.S. dollars per imperial gallon or about $2.26 per U.S. gallon in U.S. dollars. Got all that? There will be a test tomorrow on this higher math. fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Just trying to show justification for my decision to use 87 octane. And the TSB shown a few posts back supports my feeling on the subject.

    I save my online anger for "trolls" such as one we had here a few months back. Thankfully he gave up and disappeared.
  • g35fang35fan Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Millenia with 15-inch wheels. One of the wheel covers is gone. The dealer quoted me $75 for one. It's really surprisingly high for such a plastic disc. Are there other good places to shop for it?

  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    You might find one on EBay. But I believe you can go to a salvage yard and get a set of 4 matching 15" wheel covers that will fit fine. Unless you just have to have the originals. Good luck.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    I'd try Wal-Mart.
    I lost a cover on Nissan Stanza years ago, I can still remember my shock (no awe) hearing from the dealer "$60 ... so I don't think you'll want one"
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    I just took a quick look this morning into my manual (2001 Mill S), and both "Schedule 1" and "Schedule 2" show timing belt replacement at 60K miles for 2.3 Miller Cycle (2.5L is inspect at 60K and 90K, replace at 105K).
    All I know now is that I'm confused... but, if I keep this car that long, I'll take my chances with the timing belt up to 100K (given the non-interference engine).

    Now, they want to have spark plugs changed at 60K - has anyone done that on Mill S? How much $$$ at the dealer?

  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    From what I have read on another Mazda Millenia help site, the 2.3L spark plug leads have a coil built right in, it is not a simple matter to replace carbon or copper leads. These plug wires can be damaged if removed by inexperienced people so be careful if and when you decide to replace plugs. Also the recommended plugs are NKG (Japanese of course). Again there have been rumors of bad or poor performance blamed on Champion or other common makes. Just hearsay on my part at this point, not trying to scare anyone (other than myself when I first read these posts). Also, just from looking at my 2.3L engine I don't think I would want to tackle the replacement myself. That shroud is rather intimidating to the uninitiated. The good old days of Saturday mechanic do-it-yourself are long gone. I used to replace mufflers, brakes, spark plugs - I even used to overhaul 4 barrel carburetors. Mazda dealers are expensive for sure but I think I would rather a trained mechanic do the work than have a back street butcher poking around. Now about cost, I have seen posts on the other site that it can cost $500 U.S. funds. Sheesh, what did we get ourselves into? fairwood
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    You mean $500 JUST for sparkplugs at the dealer?
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    I would have to agree with fairwood. I looked on my '02 S about the spark plugs and I don't think that this would be the first thing I would want to tackle on this car. On the NGK site they list 3 plugs that would fit, starting with the V power plugs and going up to the double platinum. The prices range from $2.44 to $11.71 per plug. I guess this will tell you how much of that $500 is labor and profit. But I have awhile before this becomes a concern. Just looking at crawling around in the trunk to replace the fuel filter can be a pain in the back, literally.

    Hope everybody has a happy and safe holiday.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    about your $500 spark plug changes. I guess those 0-60 times come high. I just checked my MM-P. And after having a '90 T-Bird 3.8 then a '95 Olds 3.8 (still have it) as my last two cars. Both of which it was impossible for me to reach and change the rear 3 plugs. And after reading the last few posts here, I am delighted to see that the sparkplugs on my "01 P should be about a 10 minute shade tree mechanic job. IOW, for the price of the plugs and 10 minutes it's done. Glad I gave up that 1.5 seconds getting to 60. ;-)
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