By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
(excessive smoke at startup and excessive oil consumption). Mazda has apparently not solved the problem, atleast as of January 1999 when the fifth part number was introduced for the Lysholm Compressor. Email me at bob@zawarski.com Include your name and VIN number and any problems you have had.
YOu need to get that CPU worked out, but you can easily check this with Mazda. Call Mazda directly and talk to one of their Customer Reps and get the number for their tech department. Read them that # on your CPU and give them your VIN# and let them tell you if there were two types of CPUs for that year. I find this hard to believe as the costs would be outrageous for Mazda to make two different CPUs.
To update you on our 95 V6L - we are having the head liner replaced tomorrow and then we will be selling the car. Depending on how much you owe, you might want to consider as well.
If you get that idle fixed, imagine what you can sell it for - considering that you were the one who paid for it last in the condition you saw it in (rough idle = lower cost from dealer?).
Keep us posted and buy a BMW.
-Peter and the Millenia and Miata
I have abstained from the use of Redline because I have heard that it is merely a hyper-lubricant that can promote pre-mature transmission wear; similiar to the affects of Duralube and the like. Any info regarding this matter would be appreciated.
Regards,
AC
cheers
Recently, I started the car up for a minute to move it in the garage, and when I started it up two days later it idled rough and the enigine light came on. Took it to dealer and replaced distributor cap under warranty since computer noted a missfire in one of the cylinders. Dealer then said (with a straight face) "fuel injected cars are not supposed to be run for short periods like I was doing".
Does that sound real or like a lame excuse for a crappy fuel/ignition system?
AC - that is a load of crap. I have been using Redline now since 1994 and have had no pre-mature tranny wear - especially on my Supercharged Miata. Redline would be fine as far as I know in the tranny - we have been using it in our 95L now for some time. You can also email Redline directly and tell them the rumors you have been hearing and get a straight answer from them.
Also, Redline is highly established in the racing community and they are no viewed as a "snake-oil-lube" additive for your tranny.
Hope this clears it up - kinda.
-Peter
(I bought an extended warranty) but of course it only covers engine repair they tell me--doesn't cover my problem.)
If anyone has any helpful advice--I'd really appreciate an e-mail: carolwrd@aol.com
Thanks!
PS. It's for a 95 Millenia S, previously scanned the codes to be P0170 & P0173 (Fuel trim malfunction Bank1 & 2).
coded by you or a previous owner (most Mazda Dealers have no idea of how to clear the Radio Code), unless you know the Radio Code.
Reconnect the battery, if check engine light comes
on the problem persists.
HELP PLEASE!!!
There is one for sale right now at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=558617903&r=0&t=0
They make them for any year car.
The wood you have that is cracked is actually plastic that looks like wood. I bought the real wood kit and it goes right over the plastic one and looks so much better.
Just an option for you.
-Peter
cheers
I located additional information about the Redline Products, you are basically correct along the lines of it not being, snake oil lube, and that it is highly endorsed by racing enthusiates/companies; however, the product description clearly stated that performance results are not measurable....... I really doubt,
there's a miracle fluid available for the mil's transmission.
A little update. The car is at the dealership now and is getting looked at. The bad news is that there are no engine codes to lead us in the right direction for the rough idle. Also, on the way to the dealership, I smelled burned oil coming through the vent. Here is the low down.
1) The valve cover gaskets are leaking all over the spark plugs and tubes. This is what is causing the burnt oil smell and possible rough idle. Apparently, 2.5s are notorious for this so for those with the oil smell, change the valve cover gaskets. They want to charge $460 for parts and labor at a 4 hour labor rate. That adds to $240 for labor and $220 for valve cover gaskets?? $220? I can get Fel Pros for $100 a set. Man!!
2) And then they want to charge $80 to replace the thermostat!! I can do it for $7 bucks! Man, these guys are a rip.
Since I'm not paying for it, (the used car dealership is picking up the tab) I'm not going to make a big fuss. I normally do all my work myself, happened to be ASE certified in parts (sold parts for 4 years while in college). I knew that these guys charge alot but damn!
Also, somebody correct me if I am wrong. 95 was not the first year for Millenias. I believe the Millenia debuted in Japan in 1993. What changes needed to be made for US import, I'm not sure.
Try the Ebay thing, if all else fails, oh yeah, the woodkit around the central console should/can move removed, without to much difficulties, it should only require patience and effort in trying not to scuff the surrounding dash when prying it out.
*NOW, another problem, I'm noticing that there is a cloud of white smokes coming out from under the hood right after I start my car in the morning (plus white smoke from the muffler). What could be the problem that's causing the white smoke coming out of hood??? HELP! THANKS
Yes, oil will leak down on your manifold as well and burn for that nice morning smell of 10w30 with your coffee.
$460 is a decent price - have them replace your manifold gaskets as well while there. They ran me about $18 for those.
1) The valve cover gaskets are leaking all over the spark plugs and tubes. This is what is causing the burnt oil smell and possible rough idle. Apparently, 2.5s are notorious for this so for those with the oil smell, change the valve cover gaskets. They want to charge $460 for parts and labor at a 4 hour labor rate. That adds to $240 for labor and $220 for valve cover gaskets?? $220? I can get Fel Pros for $100 a set. Man!!
I'm kinda surprised at the recent posts about the older Millenias. Yes, I dread the costs of tune-ups but my car is not nearly as problematic as many of yours. CU has long given the Millenia very good reliability ratings. I guess most '95 and '96 Millenia owners have few troubles and thus don't need to post in this forum.
Had mine replaced about 2 months ago (thank god for extended warranty). There's a cable / cord in the antenna which can "detach" or break, which then requires replacement of the whole unit. This is the reason why it makes a pretty weird sound like gears not catching. If you have extended warranty should be able to "con" them that its not wear and tear. Besides, a good excuse to get a shiny new antenna.
On the 2.5 liter engine . . .
I can't remember or haven't read that the old 626 or MX-6 engines as having the same problems with leaky gaskets as the Millenia . . .
Got my car serviced (110k km's) . . .
Brake pads (about AUD$150 each for two)
Front CV joint (AUD$400) - if you think the engine layout is bad . . . wait till you hear the mechanics swear when they try to get this one out.
After 17,000 miles, I am ready (I mean overdue) to replace the tires. I want to keep the same size, but want some more tread life. Any suggestions?
Bob
Sounds like something is hitting the fan blades - we had the same thing as well.
I am the proud owner of a 97 Mazda Millenia S. I have owned it for two years now and am fond of it. However, I have outgrown the stock 210 horsepower and torque. I have searched high and low for parts and can only find few (vented brake disks, smaller pulley for supercharger, fuel pressure regulator, intake, and exhause). I need other parts like cams and pistons, headers, catalyc converter and the like. I want dependable horsepower but the car must be able to pass emissions inspection here in NYC. Has anyone done anything to their Millenia? All help would be greatly appreciated. Please forward all responses to supranyc@aol.com. Thanks in advance.
Anthony
1) Lexus ES300 - I get this the most often...this is understandable b/c I have the two-tone paint.
2) Acura - Also have had this more than once
3) Chrysler Sebring
4) "One of those new dodges"
5) Oldsmobile...hmm where did that come from?
6) Mercury Cougar
7) Infiniti I30...well since they stole the taillights off the Millenia I can understand this.
8) Mazda 929...get this often too...amazing how many people don't realize the 929 died years ago.
Usually when I get these off the wall remarks...I explain the whole Mazda/Amati story about the car and try to educate these confused people.
http://mazdarecycling.com/
http://www.maztoy.com/
http://www.mazmart.com/
-Peter
The car is fixed. The culprit of the crappy idle was due to vacuum lines being hooked up incorrectly when the replacement engine was installed. After the valve cover gasket replacement, thermostat replacement and vacuum line fix, we are back to normal. I hope this is my last post on this forum. Good luck too all out there with Millenias! And thanks to all the responses!!!!
Thank you.
It's time for me to replace both front axles - they're making a serious clicking noise and the boot/plastic cover cracked (I'm non-technical, so bear with me please). My car has 129K miles on it, so perhaps it's time.
In any case, my shop told me that if it was built 10/94 or earlier (mine was 10/94) they don't make the axles anymore, and they'd need to be sent out and rebuilt. He said 11/94 and later are fine. Oh well. The prices he quoted were 294.20 (w/ labor) per side on the rebuilt, and 237.76 had I not needed the rebuilt ones. Has anybody had this done? Does this seem like a fair price?
Secondly, I've got the annoying check-engine light problem that plagues so many of us. I've read through a number of posts, and got excited when I saw that something as simple as a gas cap that wasn't "clicked" three times could cause it. I ran down, clicked it 5 times, and the rat-[non-permissible content removed] still came on.
In any case, I've read some posts where people say the 02 sensors could be bad, and this could cause occasional sluggishness (YES) and degraded mileage (I get about 300 miles before my gas light comes on - and I drive about 30 miles per day, most of it freeway). My question is about the aftermarket ones. The guy at the shop said that some of them don't fit correctly, or need to be rigged to fit - and may not be specific for the car. Anybody here have personal experience w/ them? Any thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Derek
And yes, *if* is is the O2 sensors, you can go with aftermarket ones. They all /fit/ per se as they are usually the correct thread size - you just need to find out which wires go to which - super easy to do. Your mechanic should KNOW this. Two of them have 4 wires and the other two have 3 wires. I replaced one with a Mazda one for $120! Ouch - but I wanted a Mazda one for the back. I will be ordering my generics in a few days and post my results soon.
I am getting ready to replace the rear rotors and pads on my Millenia. I had a question:
-Do the rear calipers on this Mazda work like most rear calipers utilizing a parking brake? Meaning, in order to push the piston in, do I need the special tool with 2 teeth to spin the piston back into the caliper to get the clearance needed to get around the new rotor?
I've done many brakes before in the past so I'll know as soon as I pop the caliper. I'm just trying to get an idea and gather up the correct tools before I jump in!
Thanks!
In doing so, I had a heck of a time removing the battery cover,
and was unable to replace it. I noticed that air from the grill is vented
back to the cover...I assume to keep the battery cool. Since I have never seen
such venting of air onto the battery in my previous cars, my questions for
the group are:
1) Is this indeed used to cool the battery? If so why?
2) Am I risking serious trouble to the new battery/car without the plastic
hood to divert the air?
3) How the heck do I replace it? It seems a wiring harness from the fuse box is SO
close to where the hood fits on the air channel that I can't get it back on. What is the
standard procedure for replacing the battry in the 98 2.5 MILL?
Thanks in advance for your help,
Steve