What I have discovered is that when you lease you pay full freight for the car (less the lease bonus) - however if you buy a Volvo you can negotiate the best price you can get. No wonder auto manufacturers love leasing. I guess it may be possible to negotiate the best price and get a bank to write you a lease to try to get the best of both worlds? On the other hand a bank will probably require a higher interest rate than the manufacturer so maybe you dont gain this way?
You can negotiate the cap cost of a lease, which means you are negotiating the price of the vehicle, and still lease through the manufacturer's captive finance company. Not many folks seem to know or seem to bother negotiating leases, so I think that's where the misconception comes from.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
So you think it possible to negotiate a price - and then say that you want a lease at that price or cap cost?
My dealer indicated otherwise but its good to know that it can be done. Logically it should be possible as the manufacturer still books the sale and at the same margin. But I imagine that negotiating a cap cost with a dealer when Volvo Finance is actually financing the car can be problematic? Isnt it possible that even if the lower cap cost gets plugged into the lease that the interest rate and/or residual can get changed and so they make it up on higher payments? The printouts that one gets as a consumer do not disclose all the information one needs, like interest rate.
They don't? That doesn't seem right. I would think that would be illegal not to provide you with all the details in writing.
Well, certainly, you have to keep on top of all that stuff when negotiating and when you go in to sign the paperwork. I can honestly only remember 2 times when the interest rate on the final paperwork was the same as was negotiated on the sales floor, so I ALWAYS keep a close watch on the details.
You should pop over to the Lease Questions board. There are hundreds of posts from folks who have negotiated the price of a vehicle they are leasing.
As far as the terminology, I'm not too clear on it myself. I only ever leased once in my life and it was before I knew what I was even looking for in a lease contract. In any case, as far as I know, the price is the price, but the Cap Cost is the price plus any fees that are being charged on the deal but you aren't paying up front. So, for instance, you can roll the bank fees on top of the price so that your cap cost is the price plus those fees.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Leasing a Volvo after a Primary Lease doesnt look like a good idea as the rent is almost the same AND you have to shell out for Extended Warranty. I dont understand how anyone would want to lease - or buy a used car when its cheaper to lease a new one. What am I missing?
Now if I could BUY by car at the market price rather than the inflated residual value - then that would make sense. My residual after 4 years is $15950 (just the 2.4 non turbo) - but can I buy it for $12,000 or $13,000? Will Volvo Finace actually negotiate? I have heard two answers, yes and no? Which is it?
The answer on VFNA negotiating is sometimes. It depends on the cars value. Some Volvo's, like wagons do well at auction others like S80's don't do as well and can be bought for less than the stated payoff.
The warranty on my S60 expires in November. I would like to keep the car and am thinking about the extended warranty.
Here in Canada the VIP program offers 7yrs/160,000 kilometers (100,000 miles).
Does anyone know how good the VIP program is? I don't want to have to fight and argue over every claim like some people have to do with 3'rd party warranties.
Also my dealer wants $2879 (Canadian dollars) plus taxes for 7yrs/160,000 kilometers with zero deductible. Does anyone know if this number is negotiable and how much I might be able to knock off of the price?
1) key off 2) press and hold tripmeter reset button 3) turn key to position 2 for 10-12 seconds 4) when "service" light flashes 5) release button and remove key 6) done
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
did you try calling a Volvo dealer or checking the owner's manual? I know my wife's Honda has the procedure in the manual. And I also know there is no self-reset procedure for my '98 volvo. So its possible your '02 is the same way.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Both of the following are very close to the first procedure, but there are slight differences that might prove to be the key:
1. Put key in the ignition and turn to accessory position (I) 2. Put your trip odometer to T1 (take a look at the milage). 3. Press and HOLD the trip meter until it resets. Don't let go! 4. While continuing to hold the trip odometer, switch your key to the run position and watch for the previously displayed milage on the trip meter to return. 5. Once it returns, let go of the trip meter reset button and put the key back to the off position.
Or, how about this one?
After the oil change you can rest your service light by; ignition key to position I, push in and hold the odometer rest button (use your left hand), move the ignition key to position II, wait until you see the service light blinking, then release the odometer rest button.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
by MSRP, I'm assuming 2.5T and not T5. What else does it have? MSRP with destination for a 2.5T with just premium and climate is $34,435. So you've got another $475 there somewhere.
Anyway, there's certainly nothing wrong with invoice minus rebates. I see no room to wonder if you left anything on the table, that's for sure.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The tires on my S60 2.5T AWD keeps on blowing out. The wheels also got bent. Having surveyed this forum, I realized that this is not an uncommon problem with S60. Did anyone manage to fix the issue altogether by installing different tires (thus no blown tires no wheel bent)? Love to hear from somebody who has experience in this.
ak3, I have a 2002 S60 AWD with 17" wheels and the low profile Pirelli's. I have replaced two tires and one wheel secondary to potholes in 31,000miles of driving. I have two slightly bent rims at the moment. Since my S60 is a lease vehicle, I have stuck with replacing original equipment and have learned that AWD, winter potholes and sport packages are not a good combination. aaf
instead of taking a huge financial hit by trading the car in (or, in aaf's case, ending a lease early), I STRONGLY suggest buying a set of new 16" wheels and tires for between $800-$900? (i just priced out a set on tirerack for my S70)
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Comparing S60AWD, with Premium, Climate, Convenience packages and U-850 radio with BMW 325xi. Drove the S60, liked it alot, BMW next week. Any recommendations out there? Also, Edmunds TMV price $34871; That's below invoice, good as it gets? Thanks D
I am looking at purchasing an 05' S60 2.5T AWD with Sports Package. I have read postings here praising the Volvo seats in general. Does anyone have an opinion on how the sports seats compare to the regular seats? I know the sports seats have added side bolsters, but are they less comfortable over the long haul? I am also wondering if the ride will be harsher on this car because of the different size tires and wheels on the sport package.
"a replacement for the S60 in mid-2007 that will share its platform with Ford of Europe's Mondeo"
I hope this doesnt mean Ford will just stick a Volvo on the X-type. The current Mondeo platform will be no match for competition from Lexus, Acura, Infiniti, and the Germans by the time '07 rolls around. Its no match NOW.
The next S60 will be P1X platform. The Mondeo will move to a version of that platform, like the Euro spec Focus. Will be a very different car. Think S80 vs Ford 500.
A follow up question to volvomax? From what you hear on a Volvo grapevine, what is coming out first, the P1+ based S60 or P2EX based S80?
And answering to the lexusguy - even if three brands share the same base (platform) there is a lot that differentiate C1+ that is used for a new Mondeo from P1+ that is going to be used for S60.
Same as there is a significant difference between the "inner" body of Ford 500 and S80, even if both cars have derived from the same platform.
I purchased a VOLVO S60 2.5T AWD, Automatic, yesterday. The car includes Metallic Paint, Climate Package, and Premimum Package. MSRP = $36,685; Invoice = $34,482. I paid $32,377 (not including taxes, title, and tags). Any thoughts on how I did? Also, do you think that I should've opted for the Dynamic Stability and Traction Control -- the dealer suggested that with an AWD vehicle such an option was not really necessary -- true or false?
Does anyone have any information on what the residuals are on a Volvo S60R ? If you have the residual / residuals figures for 36 months, 39 months, 42 months and 48 months, please share some information.
Also, does anyone have any idea of how a lease pricing changes if you choose 10K miles, 12K miles or 15K miles per year? Assuming the same adjusted cap cost for a car, how are monthly lease figures adjusted for the 'extra' miles on a lease? Thanks!
Volvo Test Drivers and Owners: If someone were considering an S60 w/ Automatic Transmission, but wanted as much zip as possible (I realize that a manual would be better), yet drives in the Michigan snow quite a bit - Would you recommend a T2.5AWD or a T5 with DynStabTracControl?
We have a 2.5T FWD with STC and Gislaved winter tires. This car is great in the snow. AWD will only get you better acceleration from stop signs and red lights on now and ice.
Recently bought a 2001 S60 T5 with only 26K miles on it. I now have 28K. Does anyone have experience with synthetic oil? Better mileage? Warranty issues? or just plain "don't do it"?
I'm guessing the 2.5TAWD is a little better than T5 with DSTC in snow but... I'm asking about the pick up over dry roads. I'm wondering if in an automatic, under real world conditions (factoring in torque, etc) the T5 at 257hp is much different than the 2.5T at 208hp...
The 2.5T has a lot of low end torque, like older american V-8's. Very nice to drive in real, stop and go situations. The T-5 is more about top end, going 150 mph on an empty highway...
I drove both last year, and I agree with you ... but don't forget this year's T5 has more displacement and more power. I have yet to drive it, but I wouldn't be surprised if it feels much peppier on the low end than in the past.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I understand Volvo RECOMMENDS premium fuel (93 octane) for the S60R. Does anyone have any idea if a LOWER grade fuel can be used, for example, 87, 89 or 91 octane? By using a lower grade fuel, performance is affected, however, does it 'hurt' the engine in any way? Thanks.
The engine control unit will compensate for the lower grade of gas. It will reduce performance. But more importantly, you will most likely find that your gas mileage will decrease - probably enough that the typical $0.20 savings per gallon for regular fuel will be negated.
Comments
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
My dealer indicated otherwise but its good to know that it can be done. Logically it should be possible as the manufacturer still books the sale and at the same margin. But I imagine that negotiating a cap cost with a dealer when Volvo Finance is actually financing the car can be problematic? Isnt it possible that even if the lower cap cost gets plugged into the lease that the interest rate and/or residual can get changed and so they make it up on higher payments? The printouts that one gets as a consumer do not disclose all the information one needs, like interest rate.
Well, certainly, you have to keep on top of all that stuff when negotiating and when you go in to sign the paperwork. I can honestly only remember 2 times when the interest rate on the final paperwork was the same as was negotiated on the sales floor, so I ALWAYS keep a close watch on the details.
You should pop over to the Lease Questions board. There are hundreds of posts from folks who have negotiated the price of a vehicle they are leasing.
As far as the terminology, I'm not too clear on it myself. I only ever leased once in my life and it was before I knew what I was even looking for in a lease contract. In any case, as far as I know, the price is the price, but the Cap Cost is the price plus any fees that are being charged on the deal but you aren't paying up front. So, for instance, you can roll the bank fees on top of the price so that your cap cost is the price plus those fees.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
But you can see the interest amount on the "Rent Charge" line on the contract.
Now if I could BUY by car at the market price rather than the inflated residual value - then that would make sense. My residual after 4 years is $15950 (just the 2.4 non turbo) - but can I buy it for $12,000 or $13,000? Will Volvo Finace actually negotiate? I have heard two answers, yes and no? Which is it?
It depends on the cars value.
Some Volvo's, like wagons do well at auction others like S80's don't do as well and can be bought for less than the stated payoff.
Here in Canada the VIP program offers 7yrs/160,000 kilometers (100,000 miles).
Does anyone know how good the VIP program is? I don't want to have to fight and argue over every claim like some people have to do with 3'rd party warranties.
Also my dealer wants $2879 (Canadian dollars) plus taxes for 7yrs/160,000 kilometers with zero deductible. Does anyone know if this number is negotiable and how much I might be able to knock off of the price?
thx,
SnowyVolvo
1) key off
2) press and hold tripmeter reset button
3) turn key to position 2 for 10-12 seconds
4) when "service" light flashes
5) release button and remove key
6) done
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
1. Put key in the ignition and turn to accessory position (I)
2. Put your trip odometer to T1 (take a look at the milage).
3. Press and HOLD the trip meter until it resets. Don't let go!
4. While continuing to hold the trip odometer, switch your key to the run position and watch for the previously displayed milage on the trip meter to return.
5. Once it returns, let go of the trip meter reset button and put the key back to the off position.
Or, how about this one?
After the oil change you can rest your service light by; ignition key to position I, push in and hold the odometer rest button (use your left hand), move the ignition key to position II, wait until you see the service light blinking, then release the odometer rest button.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
- climate package
- premium package
MSRP: $34910
Invoice: $32995
Less $2000 (manufacturer incentive)
Net: $30995 - is this a good deal?
What else does it have? MSRP with destination for a 2.5T with just premium and climate is $34,435. So you've got another $475 there somewhere.
Anyway, there's certainly nothing wrong with invoice minus rebates. I see no room to wonder if you left anything on the table, that's for sure.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a 2002 S60 AWD with 17" wheels and the low profile Pirelli's. I have replaced two tires and one wheel secondary to potholes in 31,000miles of driving. I have two slightly bent rims at the moment. Since my S60 is a lease vehicle, I have stuck with replacing original equipment and have learned that AWD, winter potholes and sport packages are not a good combination.
aaf
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks D
I had a 4 hour ride 2 weeks ago and I was not tired at all. Seats are just perfect.
I hope this doesnt mean Ford will just stick a Volvo on the X-type. The current Mondeo platform will be no match for competition from Lexus, Acura, Infiniti, and the Germans by the time '07 rolls around. Its no match NOW.
The next S60 will be P1X platform.
The Mondeo will move to a version of that platform, like the Euro spec Focus.
Will be a very different car. Think S80 vs Ford 500.
From what you hear on a Volvo grapevine, what is coming out first, the P1+ based S60 or P2EX based S80?
And answering to the lexusguy - even if three brands share the same base (platform) there is a lot that differentiate C1+ that is used for a new Mondeo from P1+ that is going to be used for S60.
Same as there is a significant difference between the "inner" body of Ford 500 and S80, even if both cars have derived from the same platform.
New S80 is scheduled for the fall of 2006.
Next S60 is approx. 1 yr later.
Platforms are just blueprints, materials and execution make all the difference.
There are signifcant differences between the 500 and the S80.
THANKS!
Also, does anyone have any idea of how a lease pricing changes if you choose 10K miles, 12K miles or 15K miles per year? Assuming the same adjusted cap cost for a car, how are monthly lease figures adjusted for the 'extra' miles on a lease? Thanks!
If someone were considering an S60 w/ Automatic Transmission, but wanted as much zip as possible (I realize that a manual would be better), yet drives in the Michigan snow quite a bit - Would you recommend a T2.5AWD or a T5 with DynStabTracControl?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Warranty issues? or just plain "don't do it"?
I'm guessing the 2.5TAWD is a little better than T5 with DSTC in snow but...
I'm asking about the pick up over dry roads. I'm wondering if in an automatic, under real world conditions (factoring in torque, etc) the T5 at 257hp is much different than the 2.5T at 208hp...
My totally uneducated and off-the-top-of-my-head guess is that the T5 will be about .75-1.0 sec quicker to 60 mph.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I've owned both.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S