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Does anyone know if the A4 clutch is the same as the A3 clutch? Just wondering.
My only option, as far as I can tell, is to switch from radio to CD6 where I don't have a CD loaded, or just turn down the radio volume using the control on the steering wheel or power/volume on the Nav.
That seems crazy! Does anyone know how I can just turn off the radio? Thanks!!
Hows it going? I've been very busy and havent read any post. But now I am. Your battery issue well I have had to replace my battery also and it was all my fault I kept charging my cell phone even though the car was off not good I found out. There are other reasons why batteries die, old age, bad battery. And one of the worst is when your car has a draw, either something is draining the cars battery ie light being on in trunk seen that, or other items. Hopefully yours was just old age. As far a you check engine light my car did the same thing same code and my friend who works for a dealer replaced the vacuum line, he says it common so dont replace the MAF sensor. And if you want to fix it yourself most likely you can. e-mail me and I'll show you pictures of what happened to my car.
over the weekend I drove alot and a nail got into my rt rear tire so all the air went out and I had to change my tire on the road at 11pm talk about a hot tire, almost burned myself I guess I shouldn't have been speeding. next morning my garage door had a mind of its own and closed on me while I was going out. so I have a good size dent on my hood oh well. changed my spare tire today that wasn't cheap and have to find someone to repair my dent. talk to you soon :shades:
-------> David
p.s 117000 and going strong
Sorry been busy. Check my profile again. My email address is there...
----------> David
I missed you! Glad you came back. Well anyway, that sucks about your blown tire. Dude, i was on the side of the road about a month ago, because Both of my right side tires blew when i ran over this small, round black metal thing which i Thought i had missed. I walked to the Wawa, since my cell phone is off, and i called some tow places, i Initially only saw that ONE tire was blown. I got a price of like $90 just for them to tow it about 4 miles to this Supercenter Walmart that i go to sometimes. I finally got a tow estimate that was like $70 and the guy just so happened to be in the area (Umm, actually i think i had decided to just go with a tire change, remembering that i had a spare). I got back to the car and saw that as he was messing with/lifting the car, and thats when i saw the other tire was flat, so i was like "What can i do??" since i only had One spare tire. He was like "Well theres really nothing you can do except get a tow" then he called up a few places/people he knew and apparently was trying to get a cheap estimate for me. I ended up getting a tow for about $75, which wasnt cheap, but slightly cheaper than the norm i guess. *Maybe i already told you guys this sorry...ah well* I ended up getting to the Walmart and they were saying that a they didnt even have Goodyear Assurance and that the cheapest one they could get me would be like $65 or something, then this guy thats worked on my car many times before popped up (he said he was on his lunch brake when i first got there and thats why i ddint see him) and he ended up finding that they Did have some Goodyear ones, so they just charged me as if it the tires were bought There/under warranty and i only paid about $9 for TWO new Goodyear Assurance tires. They had done something like that for me before, but in that case, i only had one tire, which wasnt Blown, but had a nail in the sidewall so it was going to have to be trashed. But this last time, my tires were Shredded. My little story was meant to make you feel better, but in maybe it didnt - seeing as how i didnt have to pay much for my tires, and you did. I have never even changed a tire...guess its a good thing to learn to do. Im sure its easy. But it seems like it would be really hard at Night (if you dont have a flashlight, etc etc). My battery did go dead again - this was about a month ago, i dont think i made a post about it..i dont know. I was outside for Forever..since im not one to flag people down...thought maybe someone would stop out of the goodness of their heart seeing as how i had the hood up, but no one did. Yeah, i think i did talk about this in a post already. So, yeah, i got the $120 something dollar battery, and the car has been starting up Just Fine since then. Its still having the shaking which actually feels/sounds like the engine is about to cut off/struggling to stay on ...is that what Yours sounded like?? Although, maybe you fixed yours before it got to that point - mine wasnt sounding so bad the first 2 weeks to a month of it starting. I'll take your advice and not get the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I've read in this Chilton book or something, that i got from the library, thats its really easy to change the mass air flow sensor, hopefully its easy to to the vaccuum thing too.
Sorry to hear about the dent. *Thinking of something that could make you feel better..* Well, my Bumper has been giving me probs again. The other day, i was out at this little shopping plaza. Im not one to pull my front bumper up on the curb anyway, but when i parked, i did go up just a little far. I glanced and it seemed like the bottom of the bumper wasnt touching the cement. But then when i got back to the car, and backed up, i heard this horrible sound, stopped the car, and saw that the bumper had amost Totally detached from the car, and the bigger/well, harder to reach problem - which i wasnt even sure if could solve by myself - was that the bottom part/cover had come down, but was still attached at the midsection. I did a series of tiny back ups/pull ups to finally get the plastic cover part from up against the cement, so that i could tuck it back under the underside of the bumper....and it looked like the sides of the bumper were going to cooperate enough and let me "snap" them back into place...so that was good...but it took a WHILE for me to get the black cover up and back under the bumper , all the while the people at the Starbucks across the way were probably Staring at me while i was on my knees and stuff. I thought back to how this one guy, one of the Walmart mechanics, said i could use Duck/Duct tape and that would temporarily remedy the situation. Hadnt taken his advice before (partly because this one Audi dealership finally helped me out by putting some nails int he right hand side, they couldnt do the left, and that kept the right hand side up, until this bumper incident, and partly because i Really didnt see tape helping), but i decided to...and walked to the Giant or whatever the grocery store was that was out there, and got some duct tape (it was like $6! Guess thats average, buts its still kind of expensive). And it did/has helped, although, as i suspected it would, the heat has apparently aided in the tape coming loose.
Gotta go...and i'll see about emailing you soon.
Thanks sweetie.
~Shevi
Since I'm here, I also had a brakelight replaced. This is like the 8th or 9th brake/running/head light to go and I was whining about it and told them I was worried about paying for these when the car comes off warranty. He says "the lights go out on BMW's a lot too". Gee, thanks. Is there something up with my electrical system that they should fix while it's still under warranty? I'm going to be really whining when these are costing me $50-$100.
And finally, I've been trying to get the fuel pump recall replacement done for 3 months. Is there really a parts shortage or is my dealing feeding me a line? Audi 800 number was denying any shortage but it's hard to have a lot of faith in either one of them..
Thanks
Chelle
My car must have been 'tapped' during parking - I saw no visible bumber damage. The dealer says there is a cut on the bumper. There is an aluminum pipe RIGHT BEHIND THE BUMBER that cracked. This is part of the AC. My PLASTIC radiator mount was also cracked. The dealer charged me around $2000 to fix these and to redo the bumber.
WHY DOES AUDI MAKE THE CAR WITH FLIMSY MATERIALS THAT ARE PLACED RIGHT BEHIND A BUMPER ? DON'T YOU EXPECT A BUMPER TO BE BUMPED ?
Audi USA were no help. The dealership in NJ has taken 2 weeks. By the way - they couldnt find the problem the first time I brought it in.
Does that mean I have to change the ABS wear sensors on the brakes just like on BMWs? Or is there any other possible problems with Audi's ABS systems?
What about the engine misfires? What can be wrong with the engine? How much would it cost? How many times does this happen to Audi's? Would I have to keep sinking cash into the car?
How well are these Audi's? Are they as bad as the very old models of VWs? Or are they as reliable as the older model BMWs? Should I go for this?
Or, if not, should I go for a 1991 Saab 900s 2 door? How reliable are Saabs? Are their engines good, durable, and powerful?
The early Saab 900s are prone to head gasket and transmission failure. The bottom ends of the engine are very durable but generally they are not a particularly reliable car---especially an old used one. Overheating, electrical glitchs, lots of body rattles, excessive front tire wear. They drive great and sell for cheap though, so are dangerously seductive.
Unless you have plenty of extra cash for a "car hobby", stay away from the older Saabs and Audis, would be my friendly advice. If you have another car to rely on, then an old Saab turbo might be fun as a second car. The Audi 90 is pretty dull to drive overall, not like the newer ones which are more fun and more reliable.
I seem to be having similar problems with my 2004 A4 and I thought it was just me. Other people I talk to seem to love their A4's and I cant wait to get rid of mine. I also leased mine from Audi of Smithtown . . . actually i'm on my 2nd a4. My first one had so many problems I filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau and had an arbitration hearing with Audi. They ruled in my favor but unfortunately did not cancel my lease but I did get a new A4 out of it. Anyway, any news on the glove box issue? Mine broke today!!
When is your lease up?
Serious problem here. I am changing my rear brakes and have found that my clipers don't want to retract at all. I have the special pronged tool to screw them back in, but for all I am worth, and all the turns in the world they will not retract. What is the secret???
This is a 2003 1.8 T quatro. If it makes a difference.
Questions:
1. Has anyone on this board experienced this issue? Did they solve it by replacing the Valve Body?
2. Do others have the same issue with this dealer (Santa Monica) dragging their feet when repairing a vehicle?
Other than these quirks, my car has cold air (not freezing cold) when I want it and have chosen the appropriate settings.
Thanks,
Derek
I'm having the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, belts, etc. replaced.
The clutch hasn't been slipping, but it doesn't engage until the pedal is nearly all the way out. To save another trip back to my mechanic, I'm having it replaced at the same time.
My mechanic also found some control arms that need replacement.
To anyone with past experience with these types of repairs: any tips?
All this stuff sounds fairly similar to the issues that have come up on my '99 A4 2.8.
I had the timing belt recently done. I paid $750 at a local shop for everything you mentioned.
The 1996-2001 A4s have high clutch engagements, only the first couple of inches when you press on the clutch does anything. Did the clutch engagement position change on you over time?
Control arms are a common issue too. I'm not surprised you're having them replaced.
And by the way, if your ABS light starts blinking, it is usually the controller module gone bad. You can get a new controller module for $550 ($750 installed), OR, if you're handy, you can remove it and send it to Modulemaster (www.modulemaster.com) and have them fix it for $250.
Oil cover gaskets often leak around now too.
Chelle
David
So far my current '06, which recently had its one year birthday, has been perfect. And even last winter during the coldest weather, the car didn't have a squeak or rattle.
Audi has indicated that improved quality is a high priority and hopefully my car will prove to be the norm, not the exception.
Byron
Condition of Overheating:
The upper radiator hose gets really hot but the lower radiator hose stays cool and I cannot determine what is causing this/or is this normal?. We can safely say that the radiator is working normal. We also bypassed the heater core cause the dealership told us that it might be stopping the water from circulating thru the entire system. The axuiliary fran is not turning on so that is why we ordered the aux. fan switch. Can any body tell me what else I need to do to normalize my heating problem.
I too have an A4 2001 and my car makes that same noise ever since I got my front brake pads and rotors changed. Have you gotten this fixed?
Thanks, Alex
Still have my clutch pressure plate which I believe had a manufacturing defect, and therefore a Safety issue for Audi.
Looks much like the A4 clutch shown here and also believed to be a Audi manufacturing defect.
http://www.clarity.net/~paul/images/a4_clutch/
Statrting to look like a class action lawsuit
By the way,..have you experienced any burned oil smell?-when you park the car for example?!