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Mazda3 Hatchback

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Comments

  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Is it right to use the 323 and Protegee to rate the Mazda3?

    What % of the Mazda3 is carried over from these cars?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Is it right to use the 323 and Protegee [sic] to rate the Mazda3?
    Ultimately, Bill, you'll have to pose that question to the editors of several car magazines as well as Consumer Reports. Flipping this over, if someone told you that Mazda completely redesigned their Mazda3 and called it the ZBILL would you think that the tiger lost its stripes? Seriously though, I think the point of the linkage between these models is that Mazda has been building small cars for quite a while and these vehicles consistently rate well no matter what they are called.
  • Meade -

    KBØCOO here. Licensed in 1989 originally, only a Tech Plus - morse code has kept me from upgrading. Haven't been on in a number of years, my shack was a corner of my bedroom with an old Heathkit tube transceiver and antennas strung up in the back yard. Most of my contacts were done in the 10 meter range if I remember correctly. Sometimes I wish that I had kept up with it better. A middle school teacher of mine was an enthusiast and got a bunch of us students licensed.

    I was never able to go mobile, but I always wanted to. :( Of course the only car I have owned that I would have considered mounting an antenna to was my 1973 Grand Am.

    Glad to hear other parents have such good taste in names. :shades:

    73,

    Sean KBØCOO
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Actually I think if you are going to rate a car you should base your rating on THAT car. Maybe if they are just adding a few features - like ABS or SAC or bumping up the HP a little bit - then it seems ok to base your rating (part of it anyway) on the old car - but if you have a complete redesign then it is just plain wrong. What does the 323 have to do with the Mazda3?

    I always wondered how CR could have rated the AC in the Mazda 3 as excellent - now I know.

    I don't read CR anyway and if this is the way they do things why bother/
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    "Also, since I just turned 50, I am somewhat surprised myself that this car appeals to me as much as it does."

    What's so surprising about that? I bought a Protegé LX 2.0 in 2001 and love it, don't even want to trade for the Mazda3 at this time. Oh, and BTW, I was 71. If I was ready to trade I would go for the 5-door hatchback. ;) I can't think of any other car that is so RIGHT for the times we live in today. Sure, you have to compromise here and there, but it's the best value around and also very reliable. You can't beat the versatility and fun to drive elements.

    If you buy another compact brand to pay less -- you will get a whole lot less standard; if you pay more for another -- you will not get much more for the additional expendature and none of the Mazda3's features. There just isn't anything else out there like it.

    There are no carry-over parts from the Protegé that I have read about, not even the 15" steel wheels on the "i' model since they are 5-lug. All Protegés had 4-lug wheels making after-market alloys hard to find or limited choices.

    fowler3
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Maybe if they are just adding a few features - like ABS or SAC or bumping up the HP a little bit - then it seems ok to base your rating (part of it anyway) on the old car - but if you have a complete redesign then it is just plain wrong.

    OK then, so much for that "legendary Honda reliability" when the new Civic comes out!

    Meade
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    It drives nice and the looks are fine, but I wonder how this car will hold up in the long run.

    FWIW, here's my Mazda3/Protege history to date:

    2005 Mazda3 hatch: 6,050 miles, no problems (current car)
    2002 Protege5: 52,000 miles, no problems (wife's current car)
    2000 Protege ES*, 91,100 miles, replaced front strut bushings at 70,000 miles
    1992 Protege LX*, 83,000 miles, no problems
    1992 Protege LX*, 29,000 miles, no problems (hydroplaned and totaled it in 1992)

    (* = no longer own)

    I did own one other "Mazda" product, a 1994 B2300 pickup -- a rebadged Ford Ranger, as all Mazda B-series trucks are, built in Lima, Ohio. It was a piece of crap. Engine problems started at 8,000 miles and plagued me until I unloaded the truck with 114,000 miles on it. I was "stuck" (financially) and had to keep the truck, and lemme assure you, it was five years of sheer hell. The Protege and Mazda3 are built by Mazda in Hiroshima, Japan, using nearly 100-percent Japanese parts. BIG difference!

    Meade
  • pwimseypwimsey Posts: 16
    My '92 Mazda Protege DX lasted 165,000 with no major mechanical problems, and was running fine (although it needed a new muffler) when I traded it for a Mazda3 5-door at the end of June.
  • zzdadzzdad Posts: 5
    Well Mazda 3 appeal must be catching the AARP crowd since I am 57 and it appealed to me enough to also buy the 5dr ( RED). Just 1500 miles so far and it brings back some sports car memories of years ago. My watch list includes paint integrity, AC is okay for me - I just try to find some shade on these hot VA days, the interior really soaks up the heat. The paint seems to injure more easily than I expected. Looks like I will become a chip repair expert. Already put a coat of sealant ( wolfgang) to help keep the bugs and rain spots easy to remove. Otherwise, all the tests and reports that I have read give thumbs up on the 3. MPG ranges from 25-32 so far depending on type of driving. I bought the ABS SAB/SAC for insurance and safety plus the auto so Mom can also drive it. I miss the stick but the mannyauto can be fun. Good luck with your 3

    mike
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Where in Virginia are you? I'm in Richmond, and I've got a 2005 5-door in red too ... with a manual.

    I'm 40.

    Meade
  • kapus: Re
    "Also, since I just turned 50, I am somewhat surprised myself that this car appeals to me as much as it does."

    Heck, I just turned 60 and the 3 is tops on my list to replace my '96 VW Golf GL. I haven't yet decided whether to opt for the hatchback or sedan, probably the sedan, as I don't need the bigger engine (Anything would outrun my VW, but it has great handling, seats and ergonomics.)

    As an aside, when I drove onto a dealer lot to look at cars, the salesman said, "What kind of VW are you driving? I've never seen one of those around here." I live in the middle of Nowhereville, Florida. :)
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    I just pray every day that I won't turn out like my dad, who at age 71 is happy as a clam in his coffinlike Buick Riviera.

    Please, Dear God, no. NEVER! :cry:

    Meade
  • zzdadzzdad Posts: 5
    I am temporarily in the Richmond area a place called Midlothian. Perhaps we have passed each other from time to time.

    mike
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Mike -- I live in Midlothian!

    Meade
  • smariasmaria Posts: 279
    I always wondered how CR could have rated the AC in the Mazda 3 as excellent - now I know.

    I don't read CR anyway and if this is the way they do things why bother/


    In defense of CR, they openly state that the Mazda3's overall reliability is "predicted" because there's a very short reliability record when a model is brand new. But their rating for the 2004 Mazda3 (reported by them in 2005) is supposedly based on data from actual 2004 Mazda3's.
  • zzdadzzdad Posts: 5
    Meade

    Then I am sure we have passed each other. Mine has a South Carolina plate, my current home state.

    mike
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    I have seen two other Velocity Red hatches in town; one driven by a woman downtown in the mornings, and the other out in my neck of the woods -- must've been you! I'll keep my eyes peeled.

    Mine has a Virginia plate with a ham radio callsign on it.

    Meade
  • kapuskapus Posts: 11
    Well made the plunge today and purchased the 3. Picking it up next week. Question for the group. I live in the Midwest and it has been years since I purchased a new car. Is it worth getting the car undercoated? The 3 does not have undercoating as is and it is an additional charge. I think around 200. I know that was something that they pushed the last time I bought a new car, but I really don't hear about that now. So, I am wondering if it is something that is needed if you live in a climate with snow and salted roads or if it is just money for nothing.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,747
    I would skip it. I live in the Rust Belt and the last vehicle I had rustproofed was a '91 Caravan. Cars today come from the factory better equipped to fight rust than in the past. My current car is a '01 Elantra that has been through five winters of road salt and has no signs of rust. I do take it to the car wash in the winter when the salt builds up, and wash and wax it myself (and touch up scratches) the rest of the year, including spraying the rocker panels and in the wheel wells. I think those things are more important for preventing rust than aftermarket rustproofing. If you get it, be sure it's rustproofing, not undercoating.
  • kapuskapus Posts: 11
    backy,

    thanks. it is undercoating, not rustproofing of the car. my current car had both and it is an 89 Legend with no rust. i did take care of it and it was kept in a garage so i am not sure how much of a difference either the undercoating or rustproofing meant.
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    This applies to new cars too...

    http://www.edmunds.com/advice/buying/articles/43096/page007.html

    Undercoating is a scam. Jjust like all the other add-ons dealerships try.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    my current car had both and it is an 89 Legend with no rust. i did take care of it and it was kept in a garage so i am not sure how much of a difference either the undercoating or rustproofing meant

    If you intend to keep your new car for a while (5+ years) and you live in an area that regularly salts its roadways, proper rustproofing makes sense. In fact, in Canada it's a bit of a religion. Most of us can avoid surface rust with some regular cleaning; what is more difficult to combat is the rust that you cannot see, for example the rust caused by trapped moisture inside the doors or under the car. The rustproofing should not just coat the car but repel moisture. The Krown treatment I use is applied annually to ensure that no gaps have been created since the last application; several police forces and the Canadian military have it applied on their equipment. By the way, keeping a car inside is effective if your garage is unheated; heated garages promote thawing which converts that snow-salt to convert to rust soup.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Was that you on Hull Street Saturday evening around 8:20? I was in the left-hand lane, heading west, and you (or whoever that was in a Velocity Red 3 hatch) was in the right-hand lane, heading west too. I first saw the car near the front of Costco, and lost sight of it around Genito Road. There was too much traffic to get over to see the plate -- we wound up at the stoplight in front of Costco side-by-side, but there was a big pickup truck in the middle lane between us. I honked and honked when I could, between cars, but the driver of the other 3 was kinda zoned!!!

    Meade
  • kapuskapus Posts: 11
    thanks for the information. it seems that there is conflicting opinions on this subject with no real definitive answers.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    In any case, if you go for the undercoating use a company that specializes in it, not your local dealer.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    The dealer contracts that stuff out usually.

    We had it done to my wife's 2002 Protege5 when we bought it in January 2002. It's a thick, rubbery compound -- not the sticky tar stuff many may think of -- that is actually a little flexible when you push your finger on it. Not only did it cover nearly everything under the car and in the wheel wells, it also made her car quite a bit quieter than the interior of my 2000 Protege ES with the same tires. I probably wouldn't do it again (and I didn't on my 2005 Mazda3 hatch) -- but since the 2002 was our fifth new Mazda from this particular dealership, they threw it in for practically nothing -- and it made my wife happier with her purchase. What price spouse satisfaction, I ask?

    :shades:

    Meade
  • zzdadzzdad Posts: 5
    Meade:

    Not me , I have been Tampa, FL for the past few days. That ZZ must be a non forum owner, I would have acknowledged.

    Back in town later this week.

    mike
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    It would be better for your car to just throw a stack of $20 bills in the toilet -

    Undercoating does more harm than good - traps water and salt and makes it impossible to wash off the underside of your car - I would not let them do this to my car even if they wanted to throw it in for free.

    Back in the 1970's it was normal to see a 3 year old car with rust spots - (any where salt was used on the roads) - Today you see cars that are 7-10 years old that do not show any signs of rust.

    But if you still have doubts - and think this is what you want to do -

    Then at least - ask them to let you watch the rust proofing of another car - before you let them do yours. I think after you see what they really do you will change your mind.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 29,827
    I have to agree with this...

    I wouldn't want all of that on the underside of my car.... keeping air from the exhaust, etc.. Any idea of the running temperature of a catalytic converter?

    And...I live in an area where roads are heavily salted...

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