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THX
PGP
Could someone please point me in the right direction on this? I don't have a manual for the car but could probably borrow one from a library if necessary.
Thanks for any help. :confuse:
I am going to send you a test email first to make sure you get it because I only have Yahoo email not outlook !
When I get a reply that you received it I will send you an accurate description of the problems.
Thx In advance Peter
I have retrieved codes 159 MAF and 181 O2 sensor. As Mr Shiftright pointed out that doesnt mean the sensors are dead. Could be circuits or wires. I have looked at them as well as I could and found nothing. Cleaned MAF with computer compressed air can, cleared codes then the CEL did not come on till 60 MPH . Now back to coming on at low speeds
Does the change in when CEL comes on help you to figure out which sensor and what is wrong, so I do not have to just change both sensors. Car is in Greece and I am going in about 3 weeks.
Only other symptoms are : impossible to maintain 2000 rpm ( surges up to 2500 and drops back to 1500) when parked, and loss of power when pulling uphill in mountainous elevations.
Can a bad MAf create a O2 sensor code also ?
Thx Peter
That sounds like exactly what I needed to know.
Considering that the symptoms changed after you accessed the MAF sensor, I'd be inclined to think there's a problem with the sensor itself. If it's giving the ECU a false signal re the amount of air the engine's ingesting, the air/fuel ratio would be skewed resulting in the driveability problems, CEL, and O2 sensor code. Which brings me to another issue, Mazda has been famous for developing cracks in the air inlet ducting between the MAF sensor and the throttle body, allowing unmetered air to enter the engine and resulting in a lean mixture causing the same symptoms. More than one has been temporarily fixed using duct tape, which is probably the only time it's been used to actually seal a duct. Any chance you could drop a dime (or 2 or 20) on a call to Greece and have somebody remove and inspect the ducting?
Btw, how did you retrieve the stored trouble codes? My info differs from yours:
http://www.troublecodes.net/mazda/
I think what you suggest barring the ducting being cracked would be to replace the MAF first. I have found only Bosch parts for this car I hope they will not be a problem as the original parts Number is a Ford.Does the inability to hold 2000 rpm indicate anything more than sensors struggling with mixture ??
My codes are 3 digits as per the book
THx a lot ALCAN
The O2 sensor is really for fine-tuning mixture--a defective 02 is not likely to cause really severe driveability issues, but people keep replacing them with, of course, no solution to their problem.
A defective 02 code also is not a slam-dunk indication of a faulty 02 sensor, only that something is probably tickling it in a way it doesn't like.
The real concern is that the last time this car had sensor problems they progressed to the HOLD light, tranny clunking etc, and eventual tranny rebuild that was 95% unnecessary even according to tranny rebuilder. So I am a little gun shy when the CEL comes on.
Thats what half baked mechanics like me try to answer. If I get the right answer I will feel a great sense of accomplishment with the help of guys like you my PAL
Thx PGP
Peter
Does the inability to hold 2000 (surge to
2500 and then fall back to 1500 ) mean anything to you? I have never experienced anything like it before in any car.
I am going to ask wife to have a mechanic take a look at the ducting. Otherwise I will buy the Bosch and take a chance that the MAF is the culprit. It will prolly cost more to send back to US than it costs LOL
I may be stuck stateside for a while but I will most certainly let you know how I made out.
Again Many Thanks
Peter
I'm not sure what details will help, so I'll post what I know, and I will be glad to clarify anything that may help.
I have a '94 Chrysler LeBaron with a tad over 200,000 miles. It has been running like a champ; until recently, when 2 problems cropped up at the same time. 1) My car was took longer and longer to start, and 2) It started hesitating quite noticeably when accelerating. That is to say, you step on the gas and nothing happens for 1-3 seconds, and then it accelerates with not problems. I took it into a mechanic after it stopped starting at all, and he replaced the starter (which he said was soaked in oil from some bad gaskets that should also be replaced).
It now starts up fine, but the hesitation has only gotten worse. I tried some Fuel Injector cleaner, and for one day the car ran fine, but I have now gone through two tanks of gas with two treatments of fuel injector cleaner, and the problem is only getting worse. I am having to anticipate any acceleration I may need to do, and step on the gas a few seconds before doing so. Sometimes, if I start the car up and put it in reverse, it starts shaking as if it is going to die, and I get the impression that it is not getting gas or air... Other than this particular (although admittedly severe) problem, the car has been a trooper and I would really hate to get rid of it.
Is there anything I can do myself or things I should look out for? Spark Plugs, Fuel Injectors? Fuel Pump? It is not a problem that built up over time, it happened rather suddenly (in the space of around a week). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
-Sean
But again, if the car gets fixed then whatever they did is worth it. You could have lost that engine in a red hot minute.
it has 5 lobes 4 equaly spaced and 1 in the midle of 2 of the 4.
do the 4 equaly spaced lobes corespond to the cam lobes, and the 5th to just before tdc. on number 1 cylinder? :confuse:
Putting several cans of fuel treatment through the gas probably only made it worse. The cleaner/solvents in the treatment probably made the windings in the pump deterorate even more.
Have your fuel pressure tested. A gauge can be screwed into a schrader valve on the engine. If it is having idle problems, you should be able to see low pressure then.
I had a bad morning today and scratched the glass on my drivers side rearview mirror on my Toyota Avalon. It's about 3 inches across, fortunately towards the upper part of the glass so not a complete distraction in the mirror.
Does anyone have any recommendation for products, etc. to minimize the mess I made?
Thanks!
Paul
Peter
Thank you,
Searching3
It sounds as if its a serious enough problem that it will not be worth fixing.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
I have a '91 Grand Am, 2.5L, Vin "U". I just changed the plugs & I'm getting different firing orders. The owners guide says, 1-3-4-2, the GM service manual says 1-4-3-2. The old set of wires were 1-4-2-3.! Right now I have the old arrangement(1-4-2-3) & she runs ok, but it's always had terrible mileage.
Anybody know what it should be?
Thanks,
Paul
Check out the What about fuel types & gas mileage? discussion too.
Steve, Host