Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Good luck.
This is a brand new performance tire for winter and I hope its as good as what the Canadian Hankook rep just told me - Hankook has also received a nod from Transport Canada for winter driving.
I was considering ordering the Extreme Contact, which has been highly rated at tiretrack.com for its great winter characteristics. But then I noted that its load index rating is 90. The Dunlops SP5000 has a load index of 91.
I really don't know the implications of going down one point, but a reputable tire dealer suggested that I stick with the minimum 91 specified on the decal on the door panel.
Other than winter, the Dunlop SP Sports 5000 is an outstanding tire. The tires need to be replaced shortly - after around 56,000 Kms.
I was surprised though that you do not feel very comfortable going past the 80-85 mph (not kms I hope) and I wonder whether the (GOODYEAR) tires are the cause for this apprehension. I hope thay are V rated which is what comes standard with the vehicle.
I have 2001 Millenia S and have driven it, dare I say, at 110-115 mph (I am sure others have done better) without in the least feeling uncomfortable. I have OEM Dunlop Sports SP 5000 (size 215/50R17 which are V rated.
Please make sure you have the right tires.
My "01 P is rock steady, and if you trust the tires completely you could take your hands off the steering wheel at those speeds with no problem.
Mine has the OEM Michelins which are V rated. But the V speed rating has nothing to do with handling. An excellent touring tire of S should be just fine at 100 or so MPH. It is rated for 112 MPH sustained speeds.
Other ratings, again this is only a sustained speed rating, not a handling rating which is a function of tire design.
S- 112 mph- 180 km/h
T- 118 mph- 190 km/h
U- 124 mph- 200 km/h
H- 130 mph- 210 km/h
V- 149 mph
If you have too much money and don't know what to spend it on, you might want to try one of these.
W- 168 mph- 270 km/h-Exotic Sports Cars
Y- 186 mph---------- Exotic Sports Cars
And I also have to say that my MM S has excellent stability at high (80+ speeds) on the stock Dunlops.
Tomek
A bulletin was issued regarding corroded wheels on 2001 S. Here is a summary. Please follow up the issue with Mazda. I don't see why you have to live with this situation.
Make : MAZDA
Model : MILLENIA
Year : 2001
Service Bulletin Num : 0200401R
Date of Bulletin: AUG 14, 2001
Component: WHEELS
One more thing on the aluminum. Where a steel wheel will bend easier, an aluminum wheel will crack. Whoosh, there goes the air. No cure for that but a new wheel. It also destroys the wheel balance and causes that vibration someone mentioned. If you can live with non-MM wheels though, there are far cheaper "Mags" available than the OEM's.
Also:
0200401 APR 03 Wheels - Chrome Wheel Rusting
-------------------------------------------
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/33/01332765.html
The chat will be for all Mazda owners. We are talking with the folks at Mazda to see if we can entice a few of the Brand Managers to stop in every once in a while and participate (no promises, but we are working on it!)
I'm trying to find out from the various Mazda vehicle owners the following:
1) what night of the week would work best?
2) what time? (please give the timezone)
3) what would you like the chat to be called? (e.g. the Subaru chat is the "Subaru Crew" chat)
We hope to have the Mazda weekly chat going by mid-October.
I'll check the discussions I post this announcement in - but to not distract you with scheduling details, feel free to email me your choices at sylvia@edmunds.com
I'm happy this weekly event will be back.
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/33/01332765.html
Another web site that I would recommend for getting info about recalls and NTSB bulletin is (scroll down on the page):
http://www.pricingcentral.com/mazda/millenia.html
Thanks
mmerchant
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html
mmerchant
I was wondering though if any other owners have had the light come on, and then just clear itself after maybe 3 to 4 starts. And if so have you had it checked to know what is causing it. It came on last Saturday when I was going to be close to a Mazda dealer (about 60 miles from home), but by the time I made a couple of stops elsewhere it had cleared so I just skipped the dealer visit.
Any idea on the cause of this?
kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
1. Did the keyless remote work before?
2. Did you get a keyless remote with the (new or used) car?
3. Why did you buy another remote? Just because the new battery didn't work?
To get to the meat of the TSB's (technical service bulletins) you have to subscribe. I think it is $25 U.S. for one year. Depending on your dealer's attitude, you may be able to read (but not copy) the service bulletin.
If you did not have a keyless remote before (for whatever reason) then you must confirm that the one you purchased is the right one for your '98.
What is the FCC and Canadian part numbers on the back?
There is a lot of erroneous programming information out there. I have successfully programmed several remotes for my 2000 MM S. All the remotes you have for the car must be programmed at the same time. If you have one that worked before and you are adding another, then the first one will need to be redone at the same time. This is getting too detailed at this stage so please explain your exact problems, provide the numbers on the remote, etc. etc. and we can take it from there. Do not let the dealer replace the motor at this time!!! fairwood
1. Did the keyless remote work before? YES
2. Did you get a keyless remote with the (new or used) car? YES
3. Why did you buy another remote? Just because the new battery didn't work? A. I haven't. Mazda says I need a new one. Doesn't work with new battery. Dealer says the "cirguit board is likely damaged. Once when I dropped my keys though, it worked temporarily. I've tried to "play"with the contacts. but will not work.
To get to the meat of the TSB's (technical service bulletins) you have to subscribe. I think it is $25 U.S. for one year. Depending on your dealer's attitude, you may be able to read (but not copy) the service bulletin.
If you did not have a keyless remote before (for whatever reason) then you must confirm that the one you purchased is the right one for your '98.
What is the FCC and Canadian part numbers on the back?
There is a lot of erroneous programming information out there. I have successfully programmed several remotes for my 2000 MM S. All the remotes you have for the car must be programmed at the same time. If you have one that worked before and you are adding another, then the first one will need to be redone at the same time. This is getting too detailed at this stage so please explain your exact problems, provide the numbers on the remote, etc. etc. and we can take it from there. Do not let the dealer replace the motor at this time!!! fairwood
Hope this helps Fairwood.
I can't imagine a remote being damaged from simply dropping on the ground. That must happen a bazillion times a day around the world and I doubt that a printed circuit board would be damaged that easily. But who is to say? Did you check the fuse contacts to make sure the fuse is seated tightly? Sometimes the contacts get corroded and simply pulling and re inserting the fuse is all that is necessary to clean the oxide off. Personally I think that the motorized tilt steering wheel is one of the most stupid overdesigns of the past century!!! The strange workings of the oriental mind I guess. A simple mechanical lever such as I had on my Lincoln Town Car would be far cheaper and simpler to build. I could tilt the wheel up and out of the way without turning off the key each time I stopped at the mail box etc. My ample gut prohibits my sliding in or out with the wheel in my preferred driving position. From what I have seen on other sites, the same fuse affects both the tilt wheel and the remote door locks. fairwood
I set mine where I want it and turned it off a year and a half ago. What an overkill. But, a manual tilt as in my '95 Olds does make sense to me.
More dislikes that I consider stupid overkill?
Autodimming anything. What a nuisance to me and the approaching driver. Plus, I'm not too stupid to do it myself, and at the appropriate time.
$2000 navigation systems. I much prefer a $3 roadmap.
I guess I'm just not the "luxury" type.
By the way, I don't have either by choice on either car. My T-Bird had auto dim lights and mirror, and I hated them.
To me, there are some things better left to human judgement, assuming the human has any. I check the map before starting out on a trip, and leave it folded open to the next stretch. I also was far better at knowing when a car was coming over a rise or around a curve, so I could dim at the right time, not after the other driver was blinded by my lights. And I hate brights in my rearview mirror, so I dim the mirrors any time there is a car behind me. The autodim mirror seemed to love brights in my eyes. I swapped the thing out for a manual one and turned off that worthless autodim headlight feature.
First, do all 2001 MM's have one, and if so where is it located? I think I can handle the strenuous physical job if I know where to look. I've worn out the Google search engine trying to get this information, but I guess Mazda considers it "Top Secret".
Anybody know where it is if I have one?
If you do get the panel off let us know your method. If you were an acrobat in this or a former life it would help you in the contortions you have to go thru to get under there. fairwood
Thanks for the input.
These are supposed to be basic instructions for the Mill in general so it should not matter which model you have. I hope this helps.
That is exactly the information I was looking for. I will check that out.
Tuesday nights - 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET.
fairwood
Brady
Car ran normally, rpm's normal, really took off when gas pushed hard, etc. Drove 4 miles home, turned engine off, then re started and light came on again. Let it cool for 3 or 4 hours and went out and of course light came on again. I have always used premium gas, currently about 3/4 tank used with a bottle of injector cleaner put in at time of fill up. This was a preventative measure, not a necessary thing. I did this once before at around 34,000 miles.
If I am to believe other posts here and on other Mazda help sites then it is the 02 sensor or sensors (there are 4 of them I believe), or several other mysterious computerized sensors.
I have always turned my gas cap at least 4 turns on every car I have owned over the past 20 years or more and it is not the gas cap being loose. Yesterday I did top up the coolant reservoir with about 10 oz. of water and the system hissed when I opened the cap. The car had been sitting overnight so was cold. That would indicate that the gasket is in good condition and the system is well sealed to hold the positive pressure that long. If I am to believe many other posts here then the light should go off in a day or two. Then it will come on again, then off again, the....... well you get the idea. I do have extended warranty which covers most things including the timing belt. As I have stated in previous posts, this is the first car in years that I can't wait to get in and just go. It is also the first car I have owned in close to 50 years that scares the h*ll out of me for all the electronic sensors that seem to go belly up at the drop of a hat. Is the bar open yet?? fairwood
The weekly Mazda chat returns as "Mazda Mania" tomorrow night at 9pm EDT/6 pm PDT!
Click on this link at that time: /direct/view/.ef1b553
(The link can also be accessed from the Town Hall Welcome page, BTW - just scroll down looking on the right for the chat icon. The Mazda Mazia Chat will have its own icon soon.)
Hope to see everyone there!
:-)
By the way, your inference the Mazda electronic sensors "seem to go belly up at the drop of a hat", isn't borne out by anything else I have seen. I believe they are just doing the job that our governments require. I read on the BMW and other sites of the same problems with ck engine lights.