Real-World Trade-In Values

jmonroe1

explorerx4 said:

Good luck!

I'm sure those wishes weren't for me, so I'll pass them onto the dealer.

jmonroe

xwesx

jmonroe1 said:

stickguy said:

I am still fuzzy as to why you want her to get a new car so bad, since this one has such low miles, and she really likes it. Since just going to get a like replacement anyway.

To be honest, I just got a bug about getting a 2019 replacement that is burgundy with the beige interior. The hilarious part about this is, just tonight while we were out to dinner, Mrs. j out of nowhere, said, "when are you going to look at that car you were talking about. As long as it's the color I saw the other day on the monitor, I guess I can go along with that". Now that I've worked her this far, I'm not quitting now. I'm going to give it a try on Monday.

jmonroe

2020 is out very soon. Might as well shoot for that, as it is new generation (though mechanicals are still tried-and-true) and you are unlikely to find any "deals" on 2019 as a result.

jmonroe1

OK guys I have some info about trying to buy Mrs. j a Subie today.

Last night Son #1 called and said a used car dealer about 7 miles from me had the exact Subie I wanted which was burgundy exterior with a beige interior. The car is a 2018 with 7K miles on it. They want $26,622 with no negotiating. He also got a friend to get a local Manheim Auction price for Mrs. j's car. That price was $11,500 to $12,000 without the busted mirror. That sounded pretty good so I went out to see the used Subie. It looked perfect but it was raining and I could have test driven it but decided to go inside and talk numbers for her 2012 first. As I am sitting at the non-negotiating table, Son #1 calls and said he got a Carvana price for her car of, hang on, $12,670 but that was not counting the busted mirror. He said he had no way to put in that one flaw so he went without. I know that is a fairyland price but now I'm wondering what the hell is going on with all these prices.

Mr. q said I'd be lucky to get $9,700 for it with a busted mirror but this used car dealer was willing to give me $10,500 and he didn't budge on penny from that price. I left to think about it and that is where I am right now. He will not be calling me because he never asked for my phone number and I never gave it to him either.

I can get a new 2019 for $32,500 but I don't know what that dealer will give me her Subie and he is a little over 100 miles from me. If I decide to buy new, like I thought in the first place, I have to be willing to make that schlep to get a final number from that guy.

Just wanted to give you guys an update.

jmonroe

jmonroe1

xwesx said:

jmonroe1 said:

stickguy said:

I am still fuzzy as to why you want her to get a new car so bad, since this one has such low miles, and she really likes it. Since just going to get a like replacement anyway.

To be honest, I just got a bug about getting a 2019 replacement that is burgundy with the beige interior. The hilarious part about this is, just tonight while we were out to dinner, Mrs. j out of nowhere, said, "when are you going to look at that car you were talking about. As long as it's the color I saw the other day on the monitor, I guess I can go along with that". Now that I've worked her this far, I'm not quitting now. I'm going to give it a try on Monday.

jmonroe

2020 is out very soon. Might as well shoot for that, as it is new generation (though mechanicals are still tried-and-true) and you are unlikely to find any "deals" on 2019 as a result.

I asked one dealer when the 2020 is due out and he said probably not until late fall.

Thanks for the suggestion but I'm halfway over the cliff now. Furthermore, Mrs. j could change her mind by then and I damn sure don't want to get into it with her again about replacing her 2012. So don't mess this up for me, OK

jmonroe

stickguy

Carvana offered a lot more than regular dealers on my Elantra. Which is why i sold it to them. If you like the red one, grab it and sign up Carvana before the offer expires.

qbrozen

jmonroe1 said:

OK guys I have some info about trying to buy Mrs. j a Subie today.

Last night Son #1 called and said a used car dealer about 7 miles from me had the exact Subie I wanted which was burgundy exterior with a beige interior. The car is a 2018 with 7K miles on it. They want $26,622 with no negotiating. He also got a friend to get a local Manheim Auction price for Mrs. j's car. That price was $11,500 to $12,000 without the busted mirror. That sounded pretty good so I went out to see the used Subie. It looked perfect but it was raining and I could have test driven it but decided to go inside and talk numbers for her 2012 first. As I am sitting at the non-negotiating table, Son #1 calls and said he got a Carvana price for her car of, hang on, $12,670 but that was not counting the busted mirror. He said he had no way to put in that one flaw so he went without. I know that is a fairyland price but now I'm wondering what the hell is going on with all these prices.

Mr. q said I'd be lucky to get $9,700 for it with a busted mirror but this used car dealer was willing to give me $10,500 and he didn't budge on penny from that price. I left to think about it and that is where I am right now. He will not be calling me because he never asked for my phone number and I never gave it to him either.

I can get a new 2019 for $32,500 but I don't know what that dealer will give me her Subie and he is a little over 100 miles from me. If I decide to buy new, like I thought in the first place, I have to be willing to make that schlep to get a final number from that guy.

Just wanted to give you guys an update.

jmonroe

Actually, I was quite a bit higher with "just a busted mirror," but after finding out it had a fender replaced ... that's what kills it, IMHO.

explorerx4

Test drive the red one. IF you like it, make a deal.

jmonroe1

qbrozen said:

jmonroe1 said:

OK guys I have some info about trying to buy Mrs. j a Subie today.

Last night Son #1 called and said a used car dealer about 7 miles from me had the exact Subie I wanted which was burgundy exterior with a beige interior. The car is a 2018 with 7K miles on it. They want $26,622 with no negotiating. He also got a friend to get a local Manheim Auction price for Mrs. j's car. That price was $11,500 to $12,000 without the busted mirror. That sounded pretty good so I went out to see the used Subie. It looked perfect but it was raining and I could have test driven it but decided to go inside and talk numbers for her 2012 first. As I am sitting at the non-negotiating table, Son #1 calls and said he got a Carvana price for her car of, hang on, $12,670 but that was not counting the busted mirror. He said he had no way to put in that one flaw so he went without. I know that is a fairyland price but now I'm wondering what the hell is going on with all these prices.

Mr. q said I'd be lucky to get $9,700 for it with a busted mirror but this used car dealer was willing to give me $10,500 and he didn't budge on penny from that price. I left to think about it and that is where I am right now. He will not be calling me because he never asked for my phone number and I never gave it to him either.

I can get a new 2019 for $32,500 but I don't know what that dealer will give me her Subie and he is a little over 100 miles from me. If I decide to buy new, like I thought in the first place, I have to be willing to make that schlep to get a final number from that guy.

Just wanted to give you guys an update.

jmonroe

Actually, I was quite a bit higher with "just a busted mirror," but after finding out it had a fender replaced ... that's what kills it, IMHO.

Yeah, your right. It was the fender that lowered your number. FWIW, last night I looked at VINCheckPro and they didn't show any accident report. Carfax might but I haven't paid them yet for their report. Still might do it.

jmonroe

jmonroe1

stickguy said:

Carvana offered a lot more than regular dealers on my Elantra. Which is why i sold it to them. If you like the red one, grab it and sign up Carvana before the offer expires.

I just might do that and I might pick your brain for how it's actually done. I have an idea but getting info from a guy that did it is the best way. Sounds too good to be true.

jmonroe

stickguy

it is legit. Once you get the offer online (what your son did) if you want it, you click the "sell it now" button, and go through a series of steps to upload copies of the DL, the title, picture of the odometer, etc. They process all that, and if everything is set, they let you know it is accepted and have you pick a time to bring it in, or have them pick it up. If it checks out in person, they hand you a check, sign a few papers, and done.

Mine was particularly easy in that the car was like brand new, with clean carfax and no issues at all. Not sure how your fender issue comes into play. Their offer assumes certain condition, so if you have an issue not disclosed that they find at inspection, it could grind the deal to a halt.

I had a loan on mine so that required uploading some extra documents and signing additional papers. if you own it outright, really simple.

corvette

Fix the mirror posthaste and take the Carvana offer.

Drive the used red one. If you like it, buy it, otherwise buy a new 2019 model.

jmonroe1

stickguy said:

it is legit. Once you get the offer online (what your son did) if you want it, you click the "sell it now" button, and go through a series of steps to upload copies of the DL, the title, picture of the odometer, etc. They process all that, and if everything is set, they let you know it is accepted and have you pick a time to bring it in, or have them pick it up. If it checks out in person, they hand you a check, sign a few papers, and done.

Mine was particularly easy in that the car was like brand new, with clean carfax and no issues at all. Not sure how your fender issue comes into play. Their offer assumes certain condition, so if you have an issue not disclosed that they find at inspection, it could grind the deal to a halt.

I had a loan on mine so that required uploading some extra documents and signing additional papers. if you own it outright, really simple.

Thanks @stickguy, that's what Son #1 was telling me.

Question for you guys; should I just go ahead and get a single Carfax ($39.99) for Mrs. j Subie to see if the fender hit was recorded or is AutoCheck for $24.99 as good as Carfax? FWIW, Son #1 used AutoCheck when he bought his 2013 G37 in 2015 and was satisfied with it.

Something tells me the universe likes Carfax better. So, what is the consensus here.

jmonroe

nyccarguy

jmonroe1 said:

it is legit. Once you get the offer online (what your son did) if you want it, you click the "sell it now" button, and go through a series of steps to upload copies of the DL, the title, picture of the odometer, etc. They process all that, and if everything is set, they let you know it is accepted and have you pick a time to bring it in, or have them pick it up. If it checks out in person, they hand you a check, sign a few papers, and done. Mine was particularly easy in that the car was like brand new, with clean carfax and no issues at all. Not sure how your fender issue comes into play. Their offer assumes certain condition, so if you have an issue not disclosed that they find at inspection, it could grind the deal to a halt. I had a loan on mine so that required uploading some extra documents and signing additional papers. if you own it outright, really simple.

Thanks @stickguy, that's what Son #1 was telling me. Question for you guys; should I just go ahead and get a single Carfax ($39.99) for Mrs. j Subie to see if the fender hit was recorded or is AutoCheck for $24.99 as good as Carfax? FWIW, Son #1 used AutoCheck when he bought his 2013 G37 in 2015 and was satisfied with it. Something tells me the universe likes Carfax better. So, what is the consensus here. jmonroe

I think if you post the VIN, @Mr_Shiftright can tel you what you want to know.

jmonroe1

corvette said:

Fix the mirror posthaste and take the Carvana offer.

Drive the used red one. If you like it, buy it, otherwise buy a new 2019 model.

I've been thinking about fixing the mirror too. Not sure how fast that can be done so I guess I should talk to my nephew and nephew-in law ASAP (both work at large mega dealer body shops).

No sense talking about it anymore in here cause I know you guys ain't gonna fix it for me. :@

jmonroe

xwesx

nyccarguy said:

I think if you post the VIN, @Mr_Shiftright can tel you what you want to know.

Agreed. And, if you don't feel comfortable posting it on the forum, you can send him a private message with the VIN.

jmonroe1

nyccarguy said:

jmonroe1 said:

stickguy said:

it is legit. Once you get the offer online (what your son did) if you want it, you click the "sell it now" button, and go through a series of steps to upload copies of the DL, the title, picture of the odometer, etc. They process all that, and if everything is set, they let you know it is accepted and have you pick a time to bring it in, or have them pick it up. If it checks out in person, they hand you a check, sign a few papers, and done.

Mine was particularly easy in that the car was like brand new, with clean carfax and no issues at all. Not sure how your fender issue comes into play. Their offer assumes certain condition, so if you have an issue not disclosed that they find at inspection, it could grind the deal to a halt.

I had a loan on mine so that required uploading some extra documents and signing additional papers. if you own it outright, really simple.

Thanks @stickguy, that's what Son #1 was telling me.

Question for you guys; should I just go ahead and get a single Carfax ($39.99) for Mrs. j Subie to see if the fender hit was recorded or is AutoCheck for $24.99 as good as Carfax? FWIW, Son #1 used AutoCheck when he bought his 2013 G37 in 2015 and was satisfied with it.

Something tells me the universe likes Carfax better. So, what is the consensus here.

jmonroe

I think if you post the VIN, @Mr_Shiftright can tel you what you want to know.

Thanks Bradd.

Hey @Mr_Shiftright is that true? And if so how do I do that, use the message thingy box at the top right of all the forum pages? I'll even give you a free test ride if you tell me Carfax doesn't know anything about the fender mishap thing.

jmonroe

Mr_Shiftright

nyccarguy said:

jmonroe1 said:

stickguy said:

it is legit. Once you get the offer online (what your son did) if you want it, you click the "sell it now" button, and go through a series of steps to upload copies of the DL, the title, picture of the odometer, etc. They process all that, and if everything is set, they let you know it is accepted and have you pick a time to bring it in, or have them pick it up. If it checks out in person, they hand you a check, sign a few papers, and done.

Mine was particularly easy in that the car was like brand new, with clean carfax and no issues at all. Not sure how your fender issue comes into play. Their offer assumes certain condition, so if you have an issue not disclosed that they find at inspection, it could grind the deal to a halt.

I had a loan on mine so that required uploading some extra documents and signing additional papers. if you own it outright, really simple.

Thanks @stickguy, that's what Son #1 was telling me.

Question for you guys; should I just go ahead and get a single Carfax ($39.99) for Mrs. j Subie to see if the fender hit was recorded or is AutoCheck for $24.99 as good as Carfax? FWIW, Son #1 used AutoCheck when he bought his 2013 G37 in 2015 and was satisfied with it.

Something tells me the universe likes Carfax better. So, what is the consensus here.

jmonroe

I think if you post the VIN, @Mr_Shiftright can tel you what you want to know.

********************************************************************************************

Yes, post the VIN, and when you make the check out, be sure to spell it corrrectly....it's ShiftRIGHT, not Write or Wright.

But seriously, I could tell you what's in there regarding an accident, but I can't send you the report. If you want that, you'll have to buy it.

stickguy

JM, quickest way is to click on his name to bring up his profile. In the middle, there is a link for "new message" click that, and it brings up the message box.

if you get a response, look about where your bookmarks are. There is your icon, a link for notifications, then a picture of an envelope that is your inbox. If that has a red number on it, You got mail!

explorerx4

@jmonroe1,
How about a cheaper alternative to a new car?
Get her car wrapped in her new favorite color or theme.
If she doesn't like the color get one of these, it changes color depending where you look at it from.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=vehicle+wraps+pictures&&view=detail&mid=A9DB4BD27FED66B059EDA9DB4BD27FED66B059ED&&FORM=VRDGAR

jmonroe1

explorerx4 said:

@jmonroe1,
How about a cheaper alternative to a new car?
Get her car wrapped in her new favorite color or theme.
If she doesn't like the color get one of these, it changes color depending where you look at it from.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=vehicle+wraps+pictures&&view=detail&mid=A9DB4BD27FED66B059EDA9DB4BD27FED66B059ED&&FORM=VRDGAR

Cute, really cute. I get her to where she is going for the burgundy/beige and you really think I'm gonna spring that on her. You come over here and show her that. HINT: Be sure to bring your dining room table lap running shoes. :@

jmonroe

jmonroe1

Mr_Shiftright said:

nyccarguy said:

jmonroe1 said:

stickguy said:

it is legit. Once you get the offer online (what your son did) if you want it, you click the "sell it now" button, and go through a series of steps to upload copies of the DL, the title, picture of the odometer, etc. They process all that, and if everything is set, they let you know it is accepted and have you pick a time to bring it in, or have them pick it up. If it checks out in person, they hand you a check, sign a few papers, and done.

Mine was particularly easy in that the car was like brand new, with clean carfax and no issues at all. Not sure how your fender issue comes into play. Their offer assumes certain condition, so if you have an issue not disclosed that they find at inspection, it could grind the deal to a halt.

I had a loan on mine so that required uploading some extra documents and signing additional papers. if you own it outright, really simple.

Thanks @stickguy, that's what Son #1 was telling me.

Question for you guys; should I just go ahead and get a single Carfax ($39.99) for Mrs. j Subie to see if the fender hit was recorded or is AutoCheck for $24.99 as good as Carfax? FWIW, Son #1 used AutoCheck when he bought his 2013 G37 in 2015 and was satisfied with it.

Something tells me the universe likes Carfax better. So, what is the consensus here.

jmonroe

I think if you post the VIN, @Mr_Shiftright can tel you what you want to know.

********************************************************************************************

Yes, post the VIN, and when you make the check out, be sure to spell it corrrectly....it's ShiftRIGHT, not Write or Wright.

But seriously, I could tell you what's in there regarding an accident, but I can't send you the report. If you want that, you'll have to buy it.



Thanks. Mrs. j has to use the computer and desk right now so I'll get back to you about this later.

Thanks again.

jmonroe

qbrozen

I can see if autocheck shows an accident with your vin

jmonroe1

Hey guys, @Mr_Shiftright just got back to me about the Carfax for Mrs. j's 2012 Legacy.

IT'S CLEAN......yippee.

More info: I talked to my nephew about 2 hours ago and he is going to get me a price for the mirror replacement both with OEM Subaru parts and an after market company they use a lot for Subaru parts when the insurance company will only pay for after market parts when a car is more than 2 years old. My nephew says the after market mirror is a perfect fit so why buy OEM but he'll get me both prices tomorrow morning. He thinks he could have it painted and on the car by this weekend if the parts are in stock (either way, OEM or after market).

jmonroe

jmonroe1

qbrozen said:

I can see if autocheck shows an accident with your vin

Thanks q but @shifty got me the Carfax already as I have posted.

jmonroe

stickguy

Looks like it's happening! The thrill of the hunt. Always so exciting.

henryn

Back about 2011, I was dating a woman, whose daughter drove an old Oldsmobile (no pun intended). She tore off the driver side outside rear view mirror at a drive through of some kind. I was able to buy a complete replacement from RockAuto for very cheap, and took about 30 minutes to install. It was unpainted, but her daughter was very happy to have the mirror back. And yes, that was a remote control power mirror, and it functioned and looked just like the original (except for the paint).

cdnpinhead

I think it's lovely that JMonroe is getting a lot of help in his time of need, given that he's sort of a pain in the [non-permissible content removed], much like myself.

This is why I continue to participate in these boards -- good people. Not so many as there used to be, but good all the same.

jmonroe1

Here the latest about Mrs. j's 2012 Subie:

As I mention last night my nephew was going to get me a price for the whacked passenger side mirror (both OEM Subaru and aftermarket). It turns out that even if I wanted to pay more for the OEM they couldn't get all the pieces (3 separate pieces from Subaru) until this Friday. However, the aftermarket mirror is in stock at their supplier and it is a complete assembly, just needs to be painted. They might be able to get it late today, no later than tomorrow morning. Price is $214 total, painted at his dealers body shop and on the car by tomorrow night. All I have to do is go to my nephews house tomorrow after dinner and in less than an hour, poof, you'd never know it was wacked. Might even give Carvana a call once the mirror is on.

OH NO, I just got a horrifying thought. Maybe Mrs. j will fall in love with her car again once the new mirror is installed and decides to keep it. OH KWAP !!!!!

jmonroe

stickguy

Don’t show it to her. Wrap it in plastic.

xwesx

That's exactly right! Just leave it at our nephew's place and tell her it is taking longer than anticipated. Go through the Carvana work, schedule the pickup from his place, and bring the other car home in the meantime.

jmonroe1

xwesx said:

That's exactly right! Just leave it at our nephew's place and tell her it is taking longer than anticipated. Go through the Carvana work, schedule the pickup from his place, and bring the other car home in the meantime.

Man, you guys know how to play hardball alright. Anything else you want to tell me? If that scheme went south I'm pretty sure I'm going to need a personal safety back-up plan. A double layer of body armour wouldn't hurt either.

jmonroe

Michaell

jmonroe1 said:

xwesx said:

That's exactly right! Just leave it at our nephew's place and tell her it is taking longer than anticipated. Go through the Carvana work, schedule the pickup from his place, and bring the other car home in the meantime.

Man, you guys know how to play hardball alright. Anything else you want to tell me? If that scheme went south I'm pretty sure I'm going to need a personal safety back-up plan. A double layer of body armour wouldn't hurt either.

jmonroe

Is you a man, or is you a mouse?

TVee

I hope I’m posting this in the correct place, this is all new to me. I’m being offered what seems like a great new lease on an Audi Q7, but the variable is what they’re giving me for my current lease. It seems that’s the easiest way to create smoke and mirrors. I have a 2016 Volvo XC60 T5 with 9,300 miles. It’s white with the dark brown interior, 20” wheels and no physical flaws and is in zip 30060. Vin LYV102RK9JB083341 They initially offered me $35k and now are offering $38,200 and my payoff is $40,589. I have one year left on my 24 month lease and put $4k down, so I’m out about $4,300.

 I could keep the lease for another year, but they’re giving me 15% off MSRP for the Audi. If it’s indeed a great deal with factoring the loss of the Volvo, I’ll take it. I am supposed to be getting the family discount because a friend is a GM or their partner dealer. If it’s indded a good deal I’m afraid I may not get it next year when the leases is up without this contact. But, if it’s bogus I am happy waiting,  I’ll wait another year and not lose out. Any help is appreciated. Thank you! 

jmonroe1

Michaell said:

jmonroe1 said:

xwesx said:

That's exactly right! Just leave it at our nephew's place and tell her it is taking longer than anticipated. Go through the Carvana work, schedule the pickup from his place, and bring the other car home in the meantime.

Man, you guys know how to play hardball alright. Anything else you want to tell me? If that scheme went south I'm pretty sure I'm going to need a personal safety back-up plan. A double layer of body armour wouldn't hurt either.

jmonroe

Is you a man, or is you a mouse?

That depends on how much cheese is on the table and the risk I have to take to get it.

jmonroe

qbrozen

TVee said:

I hope I’m posting this in the correct place, this is all new to me. I’m being offered what seems like a great new lease on an Audi Q7, but the variable is what they’re giving me for my current lease. It seems that’s the easiest way to create smoke and mirrors. I have a 2016 Volvo XC60 T5 with 9,300 miles. It’s white with the dark brown interior, 20” wheels and no physical flaws and is in zip 30060. Vin LYV102RK9JB083341 They initially offered me $35k and now are offering $38,200 and my payoff is $40,589. I have one year left on my 24 month lease and put $4k down, so I’m out about $4,300.

 I could keep the lease for another year, but they’re giving me 15% off MSRP for the Audi. If it’s indeed a great deal with factoring the loss of the Volvo, I’ll take it. I am supposed to be getting the family discount because a friend is a GM or their partner dealer. If it’s indded a good deal I’m afraid I may not get it next year when the leases is up without this contact. But, if it’s bogus I am happy waiting,  I’ll wait another year and not lose out. Any help is appreciated. Thank you! 

The offer on yours is pretty much retail, so that is great. Of course, that means they are making it up through the new unit.

no clue why you’d want to take such a big loss after just one year with the volvo, but it is your money.

oh, for those following along, his volvo is a 2018, not 2016.

TVee

qbrozen said:

TVee said:

I hope I’m posting this in the correct place, this is all new to me. I’m being offered what seems like a great new lease on an Audi Q7, but the variable is what they’re giving me for my current lease. It seems that’s the easiest way to create smoke and mirrors. I have a 2016 Volvo XC60 T5 with 9,300 miles. It’s white with the dark brown interior, 20” wheels and no physical flaws and is in zip 30060. Vin LYV102RK9JB083341 They initially offered me $35k and now are offering $38,200 and my payoff is $40,589. I have one year left on my 24 month lease and put $4k down, so I’m out about $4,300.

 I could keep the lease for another year, but they’re giving me 15% off MSRP for the Audi. If it’s indeed a great deal with factoring the loss of the Volvo, I’ll take it. I am supposed to be getting the family discount because a friend is a GM or their partner dealer. If it’s indded a good deal I’m afraid I may not get it next year when the leases is up without this contact. But, if it’s bogus I am happy waiting,  I’ll wait another year and not lose out. Any help is appreciated. Thank you! 

The offer on yours is pretty much retail, so that is great. Of course, that means they are making it up through the new unit.

no clue why you’d want to take such a big loss after just one year with the volvo, but it is your money.

oh, for those following along, his volvo is a 2018, not 2016.

Yes, 2018, sorry for the typo. The new Audi they’re offering me is with a 15% off MSRP so it’s not really much of a loss, or is it? A friend of mine is the GM for one of the connected dealers and said they’d give me big discount from her. I’m worried when my lease is up I won’t get that big of a discount, even with the loss of the Volvo. The reason I’m looking to get out of it is because even though it’s a lease, it’s been nothing but trouble since I’ve had it. It’s had tons of electrical issues, I’m so disappointed. Thoughts? I’m so conflicted. 

stickguy

if you don't like the car you have, and the deal is good on one you like better, and can afford it, no worries. Assuming you are leasing the Audi too? How is the payment compared to the Volvo? In a year you are going to have to lease (I assume) a replacement anyway, so whether you do it now or then, the Volvo goes away.

But to answer your other question, if you can get that discount now, most likely you can get about the same next year. But no guarantees.

TVee

stickguy said:

if you don't like the car you have, and the deal is good on one you like better, and can afford it, no worries. Assuming you are leasing the Audi too? How is the payment compared to the Volvo? In a year you are going to have to lease (I assume) a replacement anyway, so whether you do it now or then, the Volvo goes away. But to answer your other question, if you can get that discount now, most likely you can get about the same next year. But no guarantees.

Yes, leasing the Audi as well. The Volvo was $4k down/$550 month 24mo/10k miles. This will be $1kdown $810ish/mo for 36mo/15k miles. My biggest question is if they normally do those discounts or it it’s really because of the friend. It’s a new friend and I’m unsure of whether I’ll have the contact next year, that’s why I’m strongly considering it now. 

qbrozen

$810? Wow! What is the MSRP?

nyccarguy

qbrozen said:

$810? Wow! What is the MSRP?
And how much due at signing?

Those Q7s aren't cheap to lease by any means.

stickguy

simple way to find out. Ask what the payment is if you don't trade the Volvo in as part of the deal.

leasing is tough to predict. Who knows what kinds of incentives Audi will have a year from now.

tjc78

Like the others said, it's your money.... but there is no way I could take that deal. If you put nothing OOP on the Volvo and the Audi was a zero DAS.. it would be a little easier to swallow

Look at it this way ... you are out 4300 and then another 1000 in the course of a year on two vehicles that really don't lease well.

Best thing to do is ride out the Volvo then try a score a good deal on the Audi without a trade. No way you can't come out ahead.

Like Q said, they are making up some $ somewhere either hiding a rebate, or marking up the MF.

nyccarguy

TVee said:

stickguy said:

if you don't like the car you have, and the deal is good on one you like better, and can afford it, no worries. Assuming you are leasing the Audi too? How is the payment compared to the Volvo? In a year you are going to have to lease (I assume) a replacement anyway, so whether you do it now or then, the Volvo goes away.

But to answer your other question, if you can get that discount now, most likely you can get about the same next year. But no guarantees.

Yes, leasing the Audi as well. The Volvo was $4k down/$550 month 24mo/10k miles. This will be $1kdown $810ish/mo for 36mo/15k miles. My biggest question is if they normally do those discounts or it it’s really because of the friend. It’s a new friend and I’m unsure of whether I’ll have the contact next year, that’s why I’m strongly considering it now. 

1st you need to decide how much you LOVE the Q7 and how much you want to GET RID of the Volvo. The "deal" isn't worth anything if you don't LOVE the Q7 and are willing to live with it's payment. What are they doing with the $2,389 in negative equity? Is it being rolled into the new lease? Why would you take a 15K per year lease on the Audi if you only have 9,800 miles on the Volvo after a year?

TVee

nyccarguy said:

$810? Wow! What is the MSRP?
And how much due at signing?

Those Q7s aren't cheap to lease by any means.

The MSRP is $63,700. Wow, as in it’s a lot?! My Volvo XC60 didn’t seem too much cheaper and the MSRP of the Volvo is 10k cheaper. 

tjc78

Quite frankly... both leases stink relative to MSRP. 1% of MSRP with 0 DAS is considered a good deal.

tjc78

The Volvo was effectively $717 / month and the Audi is $837

TVee

tjc78 said:

The Volvo was effectively $717 / month and the Audi is $837

Damn, that sucks for me. Any insight on what’s good and how to calculate?

stickguy

lease an MDX. those are leasing way cheaper.

which is the first question to ask actually. Are you getting a car, or a deal? Some people truly only care about the financial aspects and not what they are driving.

and for the most part, getting out of a lease early is going to cost more than riding it out. Bailing early, you eat the part that is under water. Wait it out, and it becomes the lender's problem.

yeah, dealer trips can be annoying, but let them fix the issues while you use a loaner car, and ride it out if it is only 1 more year. Then, you will be shopping "clean". The Q7 really is leasing poorly these days (for everyone, not just you) so the odds of the deal being worse a year from now, is low. And of course, you can always shop other brands too, without the expensive complication of wanting to trade in a current lease.

TVee

stickguy said:

lease an MDX. those are leasing way cheaper. which is the first question to ask actually. Are you getting a car, or a deal? Some people truly only care about the financial aspects and not what they are driving. and for the most part, getting out of a lease early is going to cost more than riding it out. Bailing early, you eat the part that is under water. Wait it out, and it becomes the lender's problem. yeah, dealer trips can be annoying, but let them fix the issues while you use a loaner car, and ride it out if it is only 1 more year. Then, you will be shopping "clean". The Q7 really is leasing poorly these days (for everyone, not just you) so the odds of the deal being worse a year from now, is low. And of course, you can always shop other brands too, without the expensive complication of wanting to trade in a current lease.

Thank you. Every time I feel like I have a handle on this, I become more lost. It’s not just about a deal, I want something I like. I don’t like the MDX, at all. I’m going to see if I can Volvo to buy it back. It’s not just going to the dealer, it’s safety. My cars electrical went out while driving twice in one day, the second time the car actually stalled. Fortunately, I was the only one in it; I got this because I wanted a safe, nice car for my two little people. I have the worst luck with vehicles. 

tjc78

TVee said:

tjc78 said:

The Volvo was effectively $717 / month and the Audi is $837

Damn, that sucks for me. Any insight on what’s good and how to calculate?


I just took your down payment divided by the term and added it to your monthly.

It sounds as if your Volvo is problematic. I wouldn't necessarily run to Audi for a reliable alternative.

Have you checked out Lexus? The RX had some decent deals earlier in the year. Just a suggestion. Like others mentioned see if you can stick it out a year then when shopping ask for quotes with only first month OUT OF POCKET. This way you can compare apples to apples when shopping different vehicles.

Also.. check into the threads here. We have two hosts that relentlessly monitor the leasing boards and will get you the buy rate Money factor (interest rate on a lease) for your region so that you can ensure the dealer isn't marking it up.

Stick around here with us. There are several leasing experts (far more knowledgeable than me) that can guide you.