Thanks to everyone for the prompt responses! These answers, combined with a bit more research has led to... another question! BTW, thanks akirby for pointing out the location of the tire info sticker - I'm *rarely* a passenger, and overlooked it! I've noted the following manufacturer guidelines: 235/50R17 = 6.5" minimum rim width, 245/45R17 = 7.5" min., and 255/45R17 = 8.0" min. Can anyone tell me the rim width of the 5-spoke chrome 17" wheels that were OEM on the 2001 LSV8 Premium? I've searched high and low for this information without success, and it will certainly have an impact on my final decision. TIA!!
The rim width is allegedly 7 1/2". I say allegedly as a club member (LLSOC) has mounted 255/45s on his 17" wheels. Also, most of the tires I have looked at recommend an 8" (wide) wheel for the 235/50 tire with a range 0f 7.5 to ~9". My 245/45s look like I can go at least 10mm more on width. They don't buldge at all.
my wife just locked all 3 sets of keys in my brand new lincoln ls. does anybody have any clue as how i would get the car opened? i would hate to think of a locksmith forcing the door open with a slim jim. does lincoln have any way to provide me with a master key?? maybe a transmitter?? oh geez..what do i do?
Call the Lincoln Roadside assistance number and they will get it unlocked for you. You may need the VIN number and they may ask for some other kind of verification to prove you are the vehicle owner.
I recommend getting 1 or 2 extra keys. Johnson FLM will sell blanks to LLSOC members at a substancial discount (around $20, if I remember correctly). The link is on LLSOC. Home Depot can cut the keys for you. You follow the sequence in the owner's manual to program them.
Thank you so much Lobsenza....i sent you an email...do you know lincolns roadside assistant number? do you think they can unlock it via remote satellite??? This edmunds board has been so helpful....any hints will be appreciated!!!!
Mike, I'm heading out to the skid pad in about an hour. Kim is scheduled to run his LSE V8 in the run group before me. I'm a course worker for Kim's run group, so I'll be watching his 255/45ZR17 Toyo Proxes as closely as I can. He's been riding around Phoenix on these tires for a few months now, and he hasn't had a problem yet (including rubbing) . . . and he's about the same size as Brian, maybe bigger.
Having looked at the tires spec.'s myself on numerous occasions, I can also attest to the fact that manufacteror's web sites indicate that a 255/45 series tire should not be mounted on wheels less than 8.0-inches wide. That said, I've also called Discount Tires, and they indicate that there is no problem with mounting this size tire on a 7.5-inch rim. Considering the tire width difference between the 245/45 tire and 255/45 tire is only 10 millimeters, we're talking barely noticeable. The upside with going to the 255/45 tire is that it is closer to the overall tire diameter of the stock 235/50 LS Sport tire (less than 1% difference). Provided no problems occur in today's Phoenix autocross, I'll be going with the 255/45 tire size in the future.
Another example of how useful the outisde keypad is. This becomes be a non-event. You'd be laughing as you unlocked the car with your personal code. Those of us who have experience with the keypad know that sometimes you even lock the keys in the car on purpose, just so you don't have to carry them around. Supposedly, Lincoln heard complaints about the lack of the keypad on the LS from golfers who didn't want to carry the keys around the course. I imagine, hikers, boaters and bikers, etc. will be pleased with the keypad on the 03 LS as well.
rubdn83510, if you don't have the # yet, it's 1-800 521 4140, but I'm sure Andy got it to you by now. Just one more helpful LLSOC member.
There is no satellite unlock available like OnStar. But they should be able to give the locksmith the information to cut a key.
I won't even ask how she managed to lock all 3 keys in at the same time, but I will give her an A+ for effort - that's not easy to do! :-)
Andy - I'm not sure extra keys would help in this case. 3 sets or 5 sets - doesn't matter if they're all in the car!
Artie - great point about keyless entry. Indisposable in these situations. When I shut the door on the Expedition I don't even worry about it. But when I shut the door on my LS I'm so paranoid it's almost comical. I always open all 4 doors before opening the trunk and I don't use autolocks. I also use it when I'm at a ball game or amusement park. Not only do you not have to carry them around but you can't lose them!
Just got back from running in today's Phoenix autocross out at Firebird Raceway/Bondurant skid pad. I din't do as well as I had hoped . . . no sense in making excuses . . . the driver is to blame and not the car. Not that I did bad, just that I didn't beat guys that I've beaten before. However, the LLSOC club member that ran on 255/45ZR17 Toyo Proxes on his blade gray five spoke sport wheels kicked butt! I think he was 4th fastest in our run group and beat me by 0.588 seconds. As expected, Kim reported NO rubbing at all, and never heard 'em squeal out on the course (and I was a course worker when he ran -- ideally situated to see some really tight turns.)
Thanks Chris. It appears I'll be buying tires sooner than expected as I have a shallow cut in one of them. I thought it was superficial, but that tire is slowly leaking air. I only have abot 5K miles left before the wear bars anyway, so......
I recommend that you pick up a set of 16" rims and use them for snow tires. You can most likely find a set of original 16" rims cheap on e-bay. The selection of 16" snow tires in 215 or 225 is huge.
I really do not like mounting and un-mounting tires on the rims twice a year, going through the expense of balancing them and risking damage.
I drove a 98 Lexus GS300 for four years and am now the proud owner of a 02 LS V8 Premium. The GS plowed into corners, it took the most of 2 seconds to start going after wot or pot at any speed or rpm, and the local dealer sevice was just plain bad. The LS corner flat, accelerate immediately, the driver seat feels better than the leather chair in front of my big screen in the den, and steering seems to be more precise. The LS does not have the fit and finish of a Lexus but the LS does get me from point A to point B and I have fun in the process. IMHO the LS is a better value and a better ride than the Lexus GS300.
ps The general manager at the local Lexus dealership parked his 02 LS430 with the dealer plates on it right next to my LS this past Friday at a local high school football game. He must have been checking it out!
While putting a new load of Mobil 1 10-30 in the 2000 MTX, I came upon the lame idea of "changing the coolant". Hell, the car has 26 months and 30k on the clock, so the green stuff must be like pea soup by now. Now let's see, take off the "belly pan" (about seven 7/32 head screws and a plastic plug), so no problem here. Ah, the bottom radiator hose is right here. Too bad it has a cheap galvanized clamp that takes an adjustable pliers but we can put a worm drive on this dude. No problem. So I pulled back the clamp and the hose and yes the green stuff came out. Looks like common Prestone. Hmmm...only a gallon and 1/2 of 11 quarts. I guess this is like a torque converter - hard to get it all. Ok, button it up with a new clamp and fill up the old reservoir with Prestone and distilled and NEXT. NEXT took a long time guys. Just a heads up for my fellow LS cronies. #1: The original coolant looked really good. No residue. Real clean. Smarter to just add a bottle of NAPA Macs 13 every 6 months to renew the anti-corrosion properties of the anti-freeze which fails alot faster than the anti-freeze side. #2: There is a SPECIFIC air bleed procedure that must be followed. Ok, back to the action. I filled up the reservoir and started it up. Well, the engine warmed up in about five minutes. The temperature guage went above normal, the fan came on, and about a gallon of fresh Prestone decided to leave the LS's reservoir. PANIC. I have destroyed a Duratech. Without flinching, I dialed the local LS god: Mike of EZAIRCON4JC fame, fellow Charter Member, San Diego LLSOC Director and owner of "Most Perfect V-6 powered LS in Socal", and in the same group as Brian: "men who know too much and can't tell you yet club". Mike pulls up the factory LS DVD Manual and reads me the procedure over the phone for about an hour. He saved my car and my Sunday. Here's the scoop. Just behind and below the big intake pipe going across the front of your engine (V-8 may be different) is a juncture of pipes and there is a little pipe sticking up with a screwdriver slot looking at you. The slot was marked with white paint. Without starting the engine, fill up the reservoir all the way and turn this valve 90 degrees to open. Supposedly, you are supposed to close this when coolant starts to flow out but my valve never bled for the occasion. Next, look back just to the right of your brake fluid reservoir for a funny pipe sticking out with a knurled plug, also with a screwdriver slot. Take this plug out and see if it bleeds green blood also. Mine did not. Too much air. But this is the heater bleed and it is the high point of your system (more important). Closing the front valve and keeping the heater bleed plug out, start the engine and keep filling the reservoir to the absolute top. Keep looking for the heater bleed to spout coolant. In my case, a couple of 1500 rpm runs for a couple minutes while filling resulted in a semi-gushing heater bleed, at which point I screwed the plug in. Result - no belching Prestone, no temp guage orgasm and no cooling fan activation. Now it's just a matter of adjusting the coolant level over the next few driving cycles. Thanks for your patience. Thanks Mike for your directions. Thanks Edmunds for the massive server space taken up by this diatribe. Just drive. Your coolant is better looking than you think.
being the "maintenance freak" that I am, I also was thinking of changing my coolant, now that the LS is 29 months old. I was reading the shop manual, and all of the "details" that you have to go through, and decided to ask the dealer, since I was headed out there anyway. They did some sort of test on the coolant and said it was OK. Still, I remember from my early days, the cooling system flush ritual every 24 months, so I share your pain.
When you start the engine for the heater bleed procedure, be sure to crank the heater to max temperature and high fan speed. This is necessary to open the heater water valve. Leadfoot4 - thanks and I think one can just add a can of NAPA Mac's 13 every six months to renew the anti-corrosion properties. It's also an oxygen purgent and water pump seal lubricant. About 3 bucks at your NAPA store.
I drive 40 miles one way on my commute to and from work. At 40,000 miles, my 2000 V6 Sport is getting about 23-24 mpg at every fill up. Most of my travel is highway cruising at 62 mph, but there are quite a few spirited starts and stops during the daily trip (not to mention the hills and twisties.)
I do not drive the LS during the winter months, or I would have about 65K -70K miles - at least.
stanny- thanks for the warning about the antifreeze. I always drained it and changed in previous cars, but maybe this one IS better left up to the dealer or someone else - in my case.
I just did my Mobil 1 oil change on Sunday and also did a 5-tire rotation and a brake cleaning/greased the slides. I had a squeal coming from the right side - it is now gone (for now...) I still have the stock pads... (mabye I should put on a set of Porterfields?)
If your pads are squealing and you don't mind a little bit of work to save some money, pull out the old pads and see if they look glazed. If they do get some medium grit sandpaper and lightly scuff the pads up to get rid of the glaze. That may be all you need to do.
Unless, of course, you're just looking for an excuse to go with the Porterfields!
And if you do go with the Porterfields, don't follow the bedding procedure in the catalog and posted in several places. Apparently that's only needed for racing pads, not the R4S street pads. It could cause the glazing that Brian mentioned.
Of course, being in PA George won't be able to take advantage of the LLSOC garage for the pad installation. (which, based on recent events, may be an advantage!) :-P
This forum has been a great tool for gathering info on the car. I just purchased a 2001 V8 sprt pkgs, htd seats, roof, WHITE w/ black interior and will be picking it up on wed. Its got a few more miles on it than i'd like (20000) but its certified. $ 26500 sound like a good deal???
This weekend I drove my uncle and uncle on a short 150 trip, and he and my aunt were very complimentary of the ride of my LS on the interstate. They reserved their highest praise for the LS seats. My uncle in the front noted he could adjust the passenger seat so many ways to find just the right position, and my aunt in the back said hers was much better than other cars. I know this is scant praise for you performance-minded owners, but the surprising part is the first part of the trip had been in a new Lincoln Town Car. They specifically noted that the seat shape in the LS was much more comfortable than the TC's.
I think you bought a lot of car for $26,500, and at 20K miles, it isn't even all the way broken in yet... My fuel mileage continued improving all the way up to 30K miles where it leveled out around 17-18 MPG city and 24-26 MPG highway. It is a 2000 LS8/Sport/SST.
Well, picked her up today, drove her back 200 miles, all I can say is very nice! This is one solid car. Maybe not as refined as lexus / bmw, but for the price I got it, I can't complain. Think it may make a American Car buyer out of a couple of friends. Only gripe I had was the radio controls on the stering wheel. They should have let the "media" button control either the next track/song on the CD and the next radio preset vs. the way they have it IMO. Considering thats the only thing I'd change for now thats not bad! Are prepainted splash gaurds available??? Any engine mods out there to get me near 300hp??? Its tinker time now!
There's a very good reason the media button does not do what you suggest. It's called a rocker switch and it's on the side of the steering wheel next to the other radio controls. If you're holding the wheel at 9 and 3 you can reach this rocker switch with the middle finger of your right hand. It changes the track on cds and the station preset in radio mode. It's a remote control for your car and, best of all, your wife can't take it away from you!
And, just so you know, there's another one on the opposite side that turns the cruise control off and on.
Splash guards are available in Black only. Look great, easy to install.
You can't get 300 hp but you can get another 10-12 or so by adding a magnaflow cat back exhaust and opening up the airbox and filter. You can get the exhaust through the LS owner's club at www.llsoc.com. You get a 30 day free trial membership. Check it out.
I recommend you look at the link for Johnson FLM on the LLSOC web site. They have a good price for splash guards, spare keys and any other product you might need.
I used to wonder why my daughter would fall asleep in the backseat on any trip over 45 minutes. I sat in the back of another LLSOC members car and now I know why! The LS has the most comfortable seat I've ever sat in!
Speaking of seats, I've always felt a bit left out when you folks have described how you can drive for hours in the LS and not be uncomfortable, how great the seat is yadda yadda. Cause my driver's seat (I've only been in the passenger seat once :>) didn't quite make me feel that way. It was a little tough to get comfortable and I could 'almost' feel the springs or whatever is below the seat cushion. Then I looked at the list of TSBs and found one for driver seat lack of comfort.
My dealer quickly agreed to perform the corrective surgery and wow what a difference. Now the seat is firm but supportive and has no 'spring' feel to it. I think my driving comfort level will now be on par with the rest.
BTW, they also replaced the rear seat remote releases in the trunk. They kept falling off their brackets. These 'upgraded' ones are solidly in place. Another very minor annoyance gone.
Rest of the car is as great as always. Still a blast to drive this DuraGet LS.
We are looking at new cars and are considering the LS. I need some guidance.
I am old enough to remember the rear wheel drive days where you literally had to carry your car on your back to get somewhere in snowy conditions. This car is for my wife and we live in snow country so I am concerned about the RWD. I realize times have changed and they now salt the roads to death and I see the LS has AdvanceTrac, Traction Control, and a 50/50 weight distribution. Will winter driving be that much of an issue with this vehicle?
We had decided on the Toyota Avalon and then test drove the LS. Wow!
I live in Minneapolis so my LS has seen it's share of snow and ice. Herman, it really is a non-issue.
In deep unplowed drifts, our FWD Taurus is probably a little better. However, in slippery conditions, (hard snow pack, or ice) the LS is much more stable and confidence inspiring. I have certainly never been stuck and never had a scary moment due to ice or snow with the LS. I have had RWD T'birds and Mustangs in the past that were very poor in the white stuff but the LS has much better balance.
Please don't let the old perception of RWD on snow prevent you from enjoying this car.
Snow is not a problem precisely for the reasons you stated. If you get a lot of snow you'll probably want dedicated snow tires. Good news is you can get 16" wheels and snow tires even if you get the 17" regular wheels.
Two Colorado winters under my belt, no problems. Straight ahead traction is probably no better than average, but the handling, steering and balance make the car feel perfectly secure on a slick road. Advance Trac is the real deal. I drove AWD Subarus for several years prior to the LS and haven't missed them a bit.
I test drove an Avalon before the LS, too. It gave me full confidence that I could out-corner anything Winnebago puts on the road.:) But I'll give credit where it's due: it was probably the quietest car I've ever been in.
had a tbird also....absolutely needed snow tires otherwise it was undrivable....HOWEVER the weight dist. on that car was like 59/41....on the LS its better. As for snow tires, I even want them on my FWD cars....once you have them you will always want them....I would guess with a v6 LS (light front) and snow tires you will be ok.
my wife is the primary driver of our LS, and winter driving doesn't exactly thrill her. However, we're going into the third winter with the LS. I bought a set of Dunlop Graspic snows for the car, and we've had no problems whatsoever. Even though I'm an old school, stab it and steer it kind of guy, I'll readily admit that the AdvanceTrac makes the car very easy to handle in the snow. (almost takes the "fun" out of it)
I loved my '90 T-bird SC more than any car I have owned but it was the absolute worst on snow/ice. I kept telling myself that I could get by without buying snow tires but that car would not even move out of it's own tracks when it snowed!
For my '94 V8 T-bird, I used dedicated snow tires and that was better but still nothing to boast about. The LS with all-season rubber is much better than the T-bird with snows. The weight distribution makes a ton of difference. Of course, dedicated snow tires would be even better.
With the LS, I have found that in deep snow I prefer to have the traction control turned off. It is fine on packed snow or ice but in the deep stuff, some wheel spin can be helpful.
I got a problem with the engine starter on my ls,the problem is that sometimes when i start my car it doesn't start immediately, and it start after 7-10 times,i toke it to LS dealer and they didnt know what is the problem, they said it maybe a dead fuse,so they just changed the fuse.
so can u help me and tell me what is tne problem?!!
Does anybody know when the 03's are coming out and has anybody seen pictures of them? This question received a complete blank at the dealership.
It may not matter because the zero percent money for the 02's is hard to beat. If we can only reconcile ourselves to some of the colors. Apparently Medium Cypress Green wasn't very popular. I think someone on this forum said that green is gorgeous in sunlight but can look like an army jeep in cloudy conditions. That is amazingly accurate.
Will be abailable in December. There are many improvements. LLSOC.com has the details. Most of the changes are on the interiior and under the hood. There are subtle exterior changes. I believe you can get a trial membership.
Please provide us with more information. Do you have a V-6 or a V-8? What year model LS do you have? When do you notice this problem the most, cold start, operating temperature, or after hot soak?
There are many members at LLSOC that could help you out with this problem, maybe you should check out their web site.
There have been issues regarding flooding the engine while starting the engine, so this might be your problem. I am not sure about the work-around with this problem, perhaps club members could step up and explain it clearly.
Medium Cypress Green has been dropped for '03. There are lots of Cypress LS's on the lots around here so it may not have sold well. I think that is is a great color, gorgous in bright Sun. In overcast light it looks more brown than green to me, but we all see colors differently. I can see how it would remind you of Army olive in some lights.
With auto sales reportely slowing, unless the economy really picks up, I don't think that it will be all that long before Lincoln will have to put incentives on the '03 LS. It looks like the MSPR will be at least $1K higher than the '02's but it also appears that in addition to all the improvements for '03 the standard equipment levels are higher, e.g. heated and cooled front seats will be standard on Sport & Premium models.
darkevil, is your problem that the engine cranks but won't start, does it not crank at all when hot or does the starter motor just spin and not crank the engine?
I've had the 01 now 4 days and have seen the first problem(s). Condensation in the lights, loose weather strip on drivers door sill area, and a rattle in the driver door with the music pumping.
Took it to the dealer and all are covered, hopefully nothing else will be a problem.
After almost a week, I now know what the LS grin is. I still can't believe how much car I have for $26K. Neither can my neighbors! Hopefully these cars will hold up over the long haul, only time will tell.
It would start normally from a cold start, but sometimes from operating temperature, it wouldn't start.. no crank and no start (no starter, crank sound)!!!!
It seems to me that I remember an issue regarding the wiring that runs from the battery (in the trunk) to the engine compartment. As I remember it, there was a problem somewhere along that trail, but my memory fades me now.
There has also been an issue related to the engine flooding itself, but that produces a high pitched whir of the starter motor.
Since it only happens when everything is warm, I wonder if the battery is up to standards. If the battery checks out, I wonder if there might not be a problem with the starter motor itself. The dealer should be able to isolate the problem if the "no-start" condition repeats itself over 50% of the time. I would think that a battery load test or an amp draw for the starter are in order. The resistance should also be checked of the "master feed" wire from the battery to the engine compartment.
Even though the car is rather complicated, the basics still apply to trouble shooting the problem. They didn't re-create the wheel when they made this car, they only made the wheel more complex.
I hope that your car is still under warranty, as electrical problems are usually a headache for the dealer to solve. Unfortuneatly, all too many dealers only want to hook up the computer to the diagnostic link and they forget about the basics of the electrical system. If the computer says that there is nothing wrong, then dog-gone it, there must be nothing wrong with it. Your dealer needs to spend some time to trace and isolate the problem with the electrical system.
Let's not get me started about my first four visits to the dealer with an inoperative rear window heater after I took delivery of the car. Three times, the computer said that there was no problem and the service manager attempted to tell me how it works differently than most cars. I put my own Volt Meter across the grid after the third visit at the dealer without any resolution. I had a reading of twelve (12) volts across the grid, indicating that the window heater wasn't grounded. I went to the dealer with this information and the service writer attempted to explain that the car has a twelve volt system. Excuse me, did they rewrite the laws of electronics? Fourth visit was a charm, the ground wire was not connected during assembly of the car.
I use this point to illustrate that dealers have come to rely on their computer read outs. Sometimes the problem is too basic for the computer to pick up.
Lot's of luck to you and keep us informed. By the way, how many miles do you have on your 2000 LS?
help!! i am so sick....just had my lincoln for 2 weeks and so far my keys were locked in car...had to have a tow truck driver scratch the car to get them out...and now...in a heavy rain..i hit a curb and scratched up my 17" painted rim. I cant bear to look at it....does anyone have any connections on getting a new one for "cheap". i live in new jersey.....any ideas????
Comments
I recommend getting 1 or 2 extra keys. Johnson FLM will sell blanks to LLSOC members at a substancial discount (around $20, if I remember correctly). The link is on LLSOC. Home Depot can cut the keys for you. You follow the sequence in the owner's manual to program them.
rubdn83510, if you don't have the # yet, it's 1-800 521 4140, but I'm sure Andy got it to you by now. Just one more helpful LLSOC member.
Artie
Charter Member, LLSOC
I won't even ask how she managed to lock all 3 keys in at the same time, but I will give her an A+ for effort - that's not easy to do! :-)
Andy - I'm not sure extra keys would help in this case. 3 sets or 5 sets - doesn't matter if they're all in the car!
Artie - great point about keyless entry. Indisposable in these situations. When I shut the door on the Expedition I don't even worry about it. But when I shut the door on my LS I'm so paranoid it's almost comical. I always open all 4 doors before opening the trunk and I don't use autolocks. I also use it when I'm at a ball game or amusement park. Not only do you not have to carry them around but you can't lose them!
Scott
LLSOC Charter Member
(keys in pocket, fingers crossed that I won't ever give you guys a chance to say, "told ya so".:)
235/50r17*: 26.25 inches
245/45r17*: 25.68 inches - 2.2% difference from above
255/45r17: 26.04 inches - 0.8% difference from 235/50
255/40r17: 25.03 inches - 4.7% difference from 235/50
235/45r17: 25.33 inches - 3.5% difference from 235/50
* denotes Lincoln recommended tire sizes
Mike
LLSOC Charter Member
I really do not like mounting and un-mounting tires on the rims twice a year, going through the expense of balancing them and risking damage.
ps The general manager at the local Lexus dealership parked his 02 LS430 with the dealer plates on it right next to my LS this past Friday at a local high school football game. He must have been checking it out!
Hell, the car has 26 months and 30k on the clock, so the green stuff must be like pea soup by now. Now let's see, take off the "belly pan" (about seven 7/32 head screws and a plastic plug), so no problem here. Ah, the bottom radiator hose is right here. Too bad it has a cheap galvanized clamp that takes an adjustable pliers but we can put a worm drive on this dude. No problem.
So I pulled back the clamp and the hose and yes the green stuff came out. Looks like common Prestone.
Hmmm...only a gallon and 1/2 of 11 quarts. I guess this is like a torque converter - hard to get it all.
Ok, button it up with a new clamp and fill up the old reservoir with Prestone and distilled and NEXT.
NEXT took a long time guys.
Just a heads up for my fellow LS cronies.
#1: The original coolant looked really good. No residue. Real clean. Smarter to just add a bottle of NAPA Macs 13 every 6 months to renew the anti-corrosion properties of the anti-freeze which fails alot faster than the anti-freeze side.
#2: There is a SPECIFIC air bleed procedure that must be followed.
Ok, back to the action. I filled up the reservoir and started it up. Well, the engine warmed up in about five minutes. The temperature guage went above normal, the fan came on, and about a gallon of fresh Prestone decided to leave the LS's reservoir.
PANIC. I have destroyed a Duratech.
Without flinching, I dialed the local LS god: Mike of EZAIRCON4JC fame, fellow Charter Member, San Diego LLSOC Director and owner of "Most Perfect V-6 powered LS in Socal", and in the same group as Brian: "men who know too much and can't tell you yet club".
Mike pulls up the factory LS DVD Manual and reads me the procedure over the phone for about an hour. He saved my car and my Sunday.
Here's the scoop. Just behind and below the big intake pipe going across the front of your engine (V-8 may be different) is a juncture of pipes and there is a little pipe sticking up with a screwdriver slot looking at you. The slot was marked with white paint. Without starting the engine, fill up the reservoir all the way and turn this valve 90 degrees to open. Supposedly, you are supposed to close this when coolant starts to flow out but my valve never bled for the occasion. Next, look back just to the right of your brake fluid reservoir for a funny pipe sticking out with a knurled plug, also with a screwdriver slot. Take this plug out and see if it bleeds green blood also. Mine did not. Too much air. But this is the heater bleed and it is the high point of your system (more important). Closing the front valve and keeping the heater bleed plug out, start the engine and keep filling the reservoir to the absolute top.
Keep looking for the heater bleed to spout coolant. In my case, a couple of 1500 rpm runs for a couple minutes while filling resulted in a semi-gushing heater bleed, at which point I screwed the plug in.
Result - no belching Prestone, no temp guage orgasm and no cooling fan activation.
Now it's just a matter of adjusting the coolant level over the next few driving cycles.
Thanks for your patience. Thanks Mike for your directions. Thanks Edmunds for the massive server space taken up by this diatribe.
Just drive. Your coolant is better looking than you think.
I was reading the shop manual, and all of the "details" that you have to go through, and decided to ask the dealer, since I was headed out there anyway. They did some sort of test on the coolant and said it was OK. Still, I remember from my early days, the cooling system flush ritual every 24 months, so I share your pain.
Leadfoot4 - thanks and I think one can just add a can of NAPA Mac's 13 every six months to renew the anti-corrosion properties. It's also an oxygen purgent and water pump seal lubricant. About 3 bucks at your NAPA store.
I do not drive the LS during the winter months, or I would have about 65K -70K miles - at least.
stanny-
thanks for the warning about the antifreeze. I always drained it and changed in previous cars, but maybe this one IS better left up to the dealer or someone else - in my case.
I just did my Mobil 1 oil change on Sunday and also did a 5-tire rotation and a brake cleaning/greased the slides. I had a squeal coming from the right side - it is now gone (for now...) I still have the stock pads... (mabye I should put on a set of Porterfields?)
Unless, of course, you're just looking for an excuse to go with the Porterfields!
Of course, being in PA George won't be able to take advantage of the LLSOC garage for the pad installation. (which, based on recent events, may be an advantage!) :-P
This forum has been a great tool for gathering
info on the car. I just purchased a 2001 V8
sprt pkgs, htd seats, roof, WHITE w/ black
interior and will be picking it up on wed.
Its got a few more miles on it than i'd like
(20000) but its certified. $ 26500 sound like
a good deal???
ace
Any engine mods out there to get me near 300hp???
Its tinker time now!
Aceman
And, just so you know, there's another one on the opposite side that turns the cruise control off and on.
Splash guards are available in Black only. Look great, easy to install.
You can't get 300 hp but you can get another 10-12 or so by adding a magnaflow cat back exhaust and opening up the airbox and filter. You can get the exhaust through the LS owner's club at www.llsoc.com. You get a 30 day free trial membership. Check it out.
My dealer quickly agreed to perform the corrective surgery and wow what a difference. Now the seat is firm but supportive and has no 'spring' feel to it. I think my driving comfort level will now be on par with the rest.
BTW, they also replaced the rear seat remote releases in the trunk. They kept falling off their brackets. These 'upgraded' ones are solidly in place. Another very minor annoyance gone.
Rest of the car is as great as always. Still a blast to drive this DuraGet LS.
I am old enough to remember the rear wheel drive days where you literally had to carry your car on your back to get somewhere in snowy conditions. This car is for my wife and we live in snow country so I am concerned about the RWD. I realize times have changed and they now salt the roads to death and I see the LS has AdvanceTrac, Traction Control, and a 50/50 weight distribution. Will winter driving be that much of an issue with this vehicle?
We had decided on the Toyota Avalon and then test drove the LS. Wow!
In deep unplowed drifts, our FWD Taurus is probably a little better. However, in slippery conditions, (hard snow pack, or ice) the LS is much more stable and confidence inspiring. I have certainly never been stuck and never had a scary moment due to ice or snow with the LS. I have had RWD T'birds and Mustangs in the past that were very poor in the white stuff but the LS has much better balance.
Please don't let the old perception of RWD on snow prevent you from enjoying this car.
Snow is not a problem precisely for the reasons you stated. If you get a lot of snow you'll probably want dedicated snow tires. Good news is you can get 16" wheels and snow tires even if you get the 17" regular wheels.
I test drove an Avalon before the LS, too. It gave me full confidence that I could out-corner anything Winnebago puts on the road.:) But I'll give credit where it's due: it was probably the quietest car I've ever been in.
I bought a set of Dunlop Graspic snows for the car, and we've had no problems whatsoever. Even though I'm an old school, stab it and steer it kind of guy, I'll readily admit that the AdvanceTrac makes the car very easy to handle in the snow. (almost takes the "fun" out of it)
For my '94 V8 T-bird, I used dedicated snow tires and that was better but still nothing to boast about. The LS with all-season rubber is much better than the T-bird with snows. The weight distribution makes a ton of difference. Of course, dedicated snow tires would be even better.
With the LS, I have found that in deep snow I prefer to have the traction control turned off. It is fine on packed snow or ice but in the deep stuff, some wheel spin can be helpful.
so can u help me and tell me what is tne problem?!!
It may not matter because the zero percent money for the 02's is hard to beat. If we can only reconcile ourselves to some of the colors. Apparently Medium Cypress Green wasn't very popular. I think someone on this forum said that green is gorgeous in sunlight but can look like an army jeep in cloudy conditions. That is amazingly accurate.
Thanks for all the responses on winter driving.
There are many members at LLSOC that could help you out with this problem, maybe you should check out their web site.
There have been issues regarding flooding the engine while starting the engine, so this might be your problem. I am not sure about the work-around with this problem, perhaps club members could step up and explain it clearly.
The starter problem mostly happen at operating temperature, and rearly after a hot soak, never at a cold start....
With auto sales reportely slowing, unless the economy really picks up, I don't think that it will be all that long before Lincoln will have to put incentives on the '03 LS. It looks like the MSPR will be at least $1K higher than the '02's but it also appears that in addition to all the improvements for '03 the standard equipment levels are higher, e.g. heated and cooled front seats will be standard on Sport & Premium models.
darkevil, is your problem that the engine cranks but won't start, does it not crank at all when hot or does the starter motor just spin and not crank the engine?
I've had the 01 now 4 days and have seen the first problem(s). Condensation in the lights, loose weather strip on drivers door sill area, and a rattle in the driver door with the music pumping.
Took it to the dealer and all are covered, hopefully nothing else will be a problem.
After almost a week, I now know what the LS grin is. I still can't believe how much car I have for $26K. Neither can my neighbors! Hopefully these cars will hold up over the long haul, only time will tell.
Aceman
There has also been an issue related to the engine flooding itself, but that produces a high pitched whir of the starter motor.
Since it only happens when everything is warm, I wonder if the battery is up to standards. If the battery checks out, I wonder if there might not be a problem with the starter motor itself. The dealer should be able to isolate the problem if the "no-start" condition repeats itself over 50% of the time. I would think that a battery load test or an amp draw for the starter are in order. The resistance should also be checked of the "master feed" wire from the battery to the engine compartment.
Even though the car is rather complicated, the basics still apply to trouble shooting the problem. They didn't re-create the wheel when they made this car, they only made the wheel more complex.
I hope that your car is still under warranty, as electrical problems are usually a headache for the dealer to solve. Unfortuneatly, all too many dealers only want to hook up the computer to the diagnostic link and they forget about the basics of the electrical system. If the computer says that there is nothing wrong, then dog-gone it, there must be nothing wrong with it. Your dealer needs to spend some time to trace and isolate the problem with the electrical system.
Let's not get me started about my first four visits to the dealer with an inoperative rear window heater after I took delivery of the car. Three times, the computer said that there was no problem and the service manager attempted to tell me how it works differently than most cars. I put my own Volt Meter across the grid after the third visit at the dealer without any resolution. I had a reading of twelve (12) volts across the grid, indicating that the window heater wasn't grounded. I went to the dealer with this information and the service writer attempted to explain that the car has a twelve volt system. Excuse me, did they rewrite the laws of electronics? Fourth visit was a charm, the ground wire was not connected during assembly of the car.
I use this point to illustrate that dealers have come to rely on their computer read outs. Sometimes the problem is too basic for the computer to pick up.
Lot's of luck to you and keep us informed. By the way, how many miles do you have on your 2000 LS?