Chrysler 300M

mike360

bigmike5 - the $2500 rebate is only available in some counties in selected states - Kentucky's one of them. In Washington state, the rebate is only $1500.

beach15

How long is it from the time a car comes off the assembly line to it arriving at the dealer? I looked on our b-pillar sticker and it said that the car was built on March 9, 2000 at hour 14, sound familiar at all? Our M is a great car but it still rattles and creaks a little. Has anyone checked yet on what bolts are going where along the firewall (the ones that seemed to long and were causing some rattling)?

scotian

I asked if 4857279AA was "the same emblem as found on the back of new LHS cars that looks like this: http://store5.yimg.com/I/wyckoff-chrysler-parts_1633_6440235" and they said "Yes it is":

http://www.wyckoff-mopar-parts.com/emattopofpag.html

beach15

How are you going to make a remote closing trunklid? What else do you have planned? Is still think my favorite is the cool hood scoop.

ottowrkr

That car is a factory built option, you can order it on any Intrepid SE , ES or R/T . Fire red was a new paint option only for this package. There were around 5000 built ,actually we still make a few everyday . This is really just an appearance package, you get the 17 inch Intrepid R/T rims but they are painted black along with Goodyear yellow lettered tires , a trunk lid spoiler ,floor mats with Dodge Motorsports embroidered on them and a Dodge Motorsports sticker on each of the front doors . Then the dealer installs the front window Dodge sticker and you get a cooler bag filled with some cool Nascar stuff. This was to commemorate Dodge going back into Nascar . Remember I said you can get this on any Intrepid model, well the first day we started building these one came down the line with a 2.7 engine and a column shifter. I had to look twice as I thought it was an incorrect build. I cant imagine driving this car with a bench seat column shifter and a 2.7 engine.

rogor2k

I'm in Seattle, see a lot of 300Ms here but very few owners seem to post in Town Hall. Also check out the Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts Club web site at http://www.300mclub.org. Hurry up and buy that M so I can recruit you as a member. 8>) I'm STILL the only WA member.

mike360

I'm in Shoreline. Thanks for the link to the 300mclub.org - I'll check it out.

ottowrkr

Well that is a question that I can not give you a definite time frame for . You see once a car is built it goes through a series of quality checks and tests . If it passes all these and nothing is found to be defective it gets put into the shipping lot. How long it stays there I don't know,also lot depends on were the car is to be shipped . I guess if you live in a big city the chances of getting your car faster are better than if you live in a small out of the way town . But if this car fails the tests it is put into a holding area and there it must wait till it is repaired , then it will be rechecked and if it passes then it will be shipped. Hope this helps

intrepidspirit

The official color for your potential purchase is "Bright Platinum Metallic". The gray leather trim is officially "agate".

FYI, in April, I purchased a new 2001 M (only option -- full size spare) for $24,988. Also, last week I saw another advertised for $24,995 (base model). Both were one only loss leaders.

You may still want to buy the 99, but I thought this info might help you in price negotiations...

Good luck!

beach15

Are these the tires you have:

Nitto
NT 555 Extreme Performance
Make no mistake, this tire is built for performance
245/45ZR-17 89W
UTQG: 300AA $136.00

$136 seems like a good price especially considering what some of the other ones cost. Has the decrease from 55 to 45-series brought about any harshness or inaccuracy in the gauges? I have the Goodyears and they do seem to make a lot of funny wiggles and vibrations even on new highways, not to mention the fact that the tread likes to sing noisy songs on just about any kind of road.

rklass

Here's a really neat program for comparing various tire sizes and calculating spedo error.

It's from the Miata Club, but works for all tire/wheel sizes:

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

scotian

"Dear Scott, Thank you for your inquiry. Unfortunately we will not be offering one for the 300M. Thanks for trying us though."

avalanche165

no mess ups with the reading gauges or anything. and i payed $650 for'em. they came down in price because of competetion from yokohoma, and bridgestone now. these are good tires, and discounttiredirect has like a warranty thing, you don't like'em, send'em back. and the roadside warranty is real good too, for like $14 a tire i think.

fastdriver

avalanche165 -

YIKES! Don't get banned here! I want to see the FINAL pics of the 300! I don't remember you saying anything bad. Oh well. Watch it! ;-))

fastdriver

sibe

Avalanche:
I haven't checked the Service Manual for my 2001, but are the color schemes the same for the 99 and the 01??

Sibe

sibe

I just read somewhere that they are selling that as a kit. But it's a bit of work as you need to place the four monitoring units inside the wheel well and then run wires into the "cockpit" as well as of course placing the sending units onto the mags. Now if one could run 3G or 802.11b wireless and obviate the wires from wheelwell into the car...8-)

Would one be able to retrofit that into a 2001 at the dealer (for a nominal fee of course)?
Sibe

silverbullet4

Try Glide brand for removing letters and badges. It is made with Kevlar fibers. Really tough stuff.
You and Avalanche are like the Yin and Yang of the board. Tasteful restraint vs Gonzo Chop Shop.
That's cool. We used to shave our heaps when I was his age. Go Av! Keep posting pics. Now I am thinking about removing the very large chrome dealer badge on the Bullet. Might try the Glide myself.
Regards, Silver

silverbullet4

I was in Little Rock on business yesterday and rented a Chevy compact-you know the kind. Manual window cranks, no power locks. I almost spun it out on a freeway entrance curve. What a POS! Guess I have really been spoiled by the M PHP handling.

Have a good weekend, everyone.
Silver

phases78

i too would like to find out if that can be installed on a 2001 at the dealer. im gonna have to check into it, if anyone gets an answer before i do post it!

sibe

Just called the dealer since I took my D in (dead battery). Seems that the tire pressure kits have been around for about 10 years AND they work as I wished - wirelessly so there's nothing to run into the cockpit. The display is the size of a cigarette box and will read the tire pressure on any of the 4 wheels at the press of a button. It comes with two sided stick on tape - unless you can find somewhere to mount it on. Cost? Between 100-200 bucks depending on whether you have tire removal/balancingf equipment in your back yard or ask them to do it.
Who needs a tire gauge when you can have this???????? 8-)

Sibe

phases78

i live 45 min from http://www.tennspeedsport.com/ .... this could get ugly lol

phases78

same distance to http://www.musiccityrodshop.com

u know what gets me? for jetchips, chrysler vehicles, it has two 300m's listed. a 3.2 and a 5.0 ??????

sibe

Just called the dealer since I took my D in (dead battery). Seems that the tire pressure kits have been around for about 10 years AND they work as I wished - wirelessly so there's nothing to run into the cockpit. The display is the size of a cigarette box and will read the tire pressure on any of the 4 wheels at the press of a button. It comes with two sided stick on tape - unless you can find somewhere to mount it on. Cost? Between 100-200 bucks depending on whether you have tire removal/balancingf equipment in your back yard or ask them to do it.
Who needs a tire gauge when you can have this???????? 8-)

Sibe

sibe

Roger:
Any thoughts to getting 300M floor mats??? Afores going out and spending $$$ on non-Club items (I know you hate that) any likelyhood of this being on your agenda?

Sibe

sdmike2

Rich - Great find! Thanks. It appears that an exact match for the stock 225/55-17 (in terms of circumf, which is what your speedo/odo are based on) is a 275/45-17...but I don't think the rims could handle the 275 width. Another close match would be a 255/45-18

easyrider300m

here's another emblem idea--take that LHS wing shield emblem, drill out the center area and fit it over the trunk lock--strip the rest of the trunk ---anyone want to do this up in a photo program so we can see how it would look?

Mats: I think there would be a huge interest in embroidered floor mats for both the front and rear--a 300M embroidered logo on the mats is just what we need for our M's--

Otto: How did you ever let Avalanches M get by you on that assembly line with missing rear door handles and the wrong tail lights-- :-) Av should have them scratching their heads when they see his M at the dealership for his next warranty repair--

easyrider300m

just wondering--do they road test the cars on a track or on the road before shipping---Like maybe drive it for 10 miles and then hook up the speedometer--

300michael

emblems for my 300M, and recieved a broken wing. The company is sending me another one (no charge) so I will try to make my 300M/wing emblem for the back. Every thing is shaved in the back, and I received my color matched paint today so I will get the compressor going tomorrow. Will not be as drastic as Avalanche's though.

Will also grind down my hood scoop to test fitting, and check for clearances. I want it operational. The other thing I have to work out is I want to be able to turn it off, so if I run into really bad weather I can switch it off and revert to stock intake. I posted a few pictures on http://community.webshots.com/user/my300m_ .

lonestarsled

easyrider300m - When I was shopping for my car I saw 2 cars with stickers on the driver side door glass that stated (cannot remember the exact verbage) basically that the car was randomly selected and road tested for quality control and driven a distance not to exceed 60 miles. One car had about 50 miles on it but do not know about the other. The car I purchased had 11 miles on the odometer.

300michael

to pry off the center of the wing emblem but with no luck (didn't want to break it). The trick is to add an hinge to it so that you could access the lock. I think the wing would look better higher up, the lock location is too low IMHO.

By the way on the previous post the lock is going to be painted the same color as the car. The tips will be a different shade of green.

rogor2k

You guys are gonna' drive me to drink!!


It is possible. Check out http://www.vcnet.com/worlduph/Giftiduniv.htm.


Is anyone prepared to spend $85 and up for a set of custon logo mats?

If so, let me know and I'll look into it.

straight8

I proberly shouldn't be saying this but I have to get it off my chest ...

I stopped buying Chrysler products when the service mgr at the Chryler dealership (Who by the way I got to know on a 1st name basis as I was there so often) kept telling me when I explained my problem "Thats common with Chryslers" and one day I realized what he said

easyrider300m

why not just drill the back of the wing emblem just deep enough to fit over the raised edges of the lock and glue it on--we dont need to access the lock--we have electronic locks---if the keyfob doesnt work, you could crawl in behind the seat and pull the safety release--can you post a pic of what it would look like to cover the lock area with the wing emblem--it would save having to remove the lock and fill the area ala Avalanches mod--

ruski

Got my spot in the front at the red light. Shifter into AutoStick. Light turned green. I floored the gas. I heard "Vrrrrrrrrr" but the car was not moving.

I sat there while everyone blasted off.

For some reason the tranny had not clicked in and decided to go into Neutral.

easyrider300m

so what brings you to the M board if you "proberly" no longer respect Chrysler products--granted its not a Caddy or a Lexus, but its still one fine automobile and an excellent value, and one of the best lookers on the road---mine is a silver y2k M with all the toys and has 18k on the clock--some minor stuff, but no major probs--service dept has given reasonable service and has corrected most small probs

so why are you here?

avalanche165

Tire burnout is "common" with mercedes. Exhaust messups are common with lexus's. Cat converters need to be replaced on toyotas every 10 years. every 100k on an turbo, good luck. cars are designed by people, not God. so of course we're gonna have problems. i am termed "the maniac" at high school for the way i drive, and the bodyshop teachers can't believe my tranny is still running, so in that aspect, i love my car. one of my teachers once told me that he had a 67 supercharger, mustang of course, and he used to drive like me, 3 months, transmission dead. with me....2 years, transmission smiling.

scotian

"I proberly shouldn't be saying this but I have to get it off my chest..."

Dude -- chill out before you die of a heart attack. Life's too short to be worrying about other people's cars. Geez!

avalanche165

300mike, we need to get together on this. here what i'm planning on doing :
right now i have 5 big holes drilled, 1.8 inches in diameter, into the hood on the underside of hoo scoop. the holes are where in theory most air is coming. so i am gonna build an aluminum box and set it up there, right now i have this fiberglass flap to deflect the water. it cracked once because of teh air pressure, so i imagine a lot of air is coming in through there, and we can get awesome results. ok so from the alum. box, i'll have a hose that runs directly into intake. theres so many 90 degree setups in that intake, i remember i took it to this performance shop to get my filter, and he was like "well why don't you jsut redo the whole intake, that would be your best bet?" then he saw under the hood and was like, "ok then, nevermind" theres a lot of 90 degree setups in the intake (sorry don't know correct term) do it would be hard to make someting. but we can run a hose directly into it. crazy hp gain i presume. ok so thats my plan, what are you gonna do....?????? cuz this isn't definite for me yet.....

scotian

I ordered an LHS wing, and I think it would look best covering the lock, as high us as it will go without the lock being seen; some dremeling of the wing back required (I'm sure this is preferrable to grinding the lock). I don't have an inside trunk release, but I never use the key in the trunk anyway. If I need to get into the trunk via the key, and my alarm's remote and the dash button don't pop it open, I will pry the emblem off and replace it later; I doubt any type of hinge is feasible or necessary.

I don't like the thought of losing the trunk 300M shield either, but for the love of God do not stuck it in the middle of the wing!

avalanche165

u can always take the lock out, with keyhole, and make a hinge on the tailight, re-position the locks on the trunk. so if u have to open the trunk with key, just slide tailight over, and ther you go, theres your keyhole. it sounds like i'm joking but i'm serious. i was gonna shave gas door and repostion there, to go for the complete smooth look. this kid with a supra did it in Turbo magazine this month. peeeeerty tricked. i think ever since i won at carlisle, my minds been switching to the more tricked out stuff rather than pratical. better change that or else i'll have a riceburner soon, right jason

avalanche165

i talk to phases all the time, and just see people posting right when i am, so since your online at the same time, maybe we should get a list going of aim names, msn names, etc? if its ok with Pat. well hey if its not this msg will be wiped out anyway right? my name on aim is avalanche165. and msn is avalanche165@hotmail.com

tbelote

So, I was thinking about changing my oil myself, and I was just wondering if anyone had any pointers. Is the oil filter easy to get to, or am I going to have to jack up the car to get to it?

thanks

scotian

Just slide the taillight over?

The taillight is held in place by three bolts, secured from the inside of the trunk. Are you suggesting removing these bolts and attaching a hinge to the brittle plastic taillight housing? How would it remain secured on the other side -- a magnet? What about the inevitable rattles?

Repositioning the trunk keyhole is interesting, though. I haven't looked at it -- it's not physically connected to the trunk lock latch mechanism (electical connection only) and can easily be moved? I'll have to look at my Service Manual. Maybe stick it inside the gas door (probably no room there) or inside the rear bumper.

ottowrkr

Yes each LH car built gets driven on what we call the BSR track. (Bump,squeak and rattle) the track is made up of many different surfaces . This test allows the quality control inspector to listen for any unusual noises . The cars that you see with the sticker on the window that says the car was road tested are actually taken out on the roads around the plant to give a real world evaluation of the car.

avalanche165

u can take those 3 bolts out, and out fasters instead. your choice of clicking device. of course something strong. something that clicks in, clicks our, or maybe even a smal handle somewhere on the tailight itself. it wouldn't be easy but....possible. if u really really wanna keep that keyhole for sake of mind i guess. the rattles could be taken care of by some foam. keyhole is a piece of cake to get out, about 5 inches wide, very lite weight. 10 min to take out.

avalanche165

i got an idea....

how bout you just cut out a circle in the wing emblem, fit it right over the keyhole, and paint keyhole to match. u got the emblem, the keyhole, and the look.

ir2k300m

Finally was able to get some good photos. Only 2 coats of Z5 on her so far but looks good.

www.iaxs.net/~polend/automobiles/Photos/page_01.htm

Sorry...forgot how to post a link in here

300michael

Putting a henge on the tail lights would be easy. You could even use Velcro (the heavy duty stuff not the cut loop) secure the lamps a simple clear tab could be use to open the tail light. Talk about a place to keep an extra key, too. you could keep one of the nuts in place if you wanted a locking gas cap/ tail light, so to speak.
What I want to do is relocat my front marker/turn signal lamp between the two head lamps one on each side, by sanding off the chrome and inserting a light behind it. Just like the 300N. The 300M lamp I purchased at Ebay fell through, when the guy sent me a Concord lamp instead. As soon as I find an extra headlamp I will try that mod. Then I will convert the turn/marker lighs (I have an extra one to play with)to clear lenses and use them for cornering lights with a H3 bulb installed.

avalanche165

one word, NICE. sounds good, i had a similiar idea. i may do the tailight thing, cuz when i get this solenoid for the doors, it has like an emergency water-proff button on the outside of the car, can't remember the reason, someting with started kill i think, but i could put that behind the tailight. oh crap, maybe i shouldn't be telling anyone this...hahha, anyway, u know the fluorescent light covers, well i took one frmo my friends dorm room, she was kinda pissed. anyhow, it will bend with heat and stay good, so we can make clear corners, paint the bulb yellow, this is on the front bumper turn signal btw. i'm gonna take it out today and see what i can do with it.

300michael

I will make up some drawings of my Scoop intake ideas and post them. Simply I want to put a 6" hole in the hood with a flange to prevent water from flowing into the intake. The scoop has a 1/8" by 14" gap to let the water out the rear. Then run a flat 1/2 channel on the hood and the other 1/2 channel secured to the top valve covers. When you close the hood the two come together forming the intake passage. Which is connected to the bottom of the air box. That way you can still run the engine with the filter intact.