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Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
What's that make, six, eight, or more tales of troubleshooting you've told us about that came down to a wiring/connector problem?
I have only posted about 5% of what I see each week.
See how you do.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Do what????? VBG
I failed the rest because I am unfamiliar with their marketing speak.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Hey now, I've had a few dogs live to 13-14 years. Lotta cars, Neon or not, don't make it that long!
I knew of one dog that made it to about 20 or 21. Belonged to the owner of a local wrecking yard. Oddly enough, old age didn't do him in, he got hit by a car.
In the next week or so I'll write about the Toyota Sienna transmission issue that we dealt with in the last few days. FWIW, that one is not a connection issue.
http://johng673.blogspot.com/
BULK ENGINE OIL CHAIN OF CUSTODY AND QUALITY DOCUMENTATION 11
7.5 Installation Practices
7.5.1 Engine oil change options shall be clearly and accurately represented to consumers through a menu board, list of services, or other promotional methods.
7.5.2 Bulk engine oil installation hoses, hose reels or nozzles shall be clearly labeled with the brand name, SAE viscosity grade, and API service category of each oil being dispensed.
7.6 Customer Receipts
The customer receipt for the engine oil change shall clearly identify the brand name, SAE viscosity grade, API service category and API license status of the oil installed. For example, the receipt would provide the following information: “Specific Brand SAE 5W-30 API-Licensed SN/GF-5.”
An installer has the option to indicate that the brand of oil is a “house brand.” Note, however, that an API engine oil license is not transferable and the licensee does not have the right to grant sublicenses. If an installer chooses to rename an engine oil as a “house brand,” the oil must be identified as “unlicensed.” For example, the receipt would provide the following information: “House Brand Unlicensed 5W30 SN/GF-5.”
Ths is from the API.
One of the lines that should have everybody wondering is the last one.
For example, the receipt would provide the following information: “House Brand Unlicensed 5W30 SN/GF-5
The moment someone actually labels a product as un-licensed, what should that really mean to a consumer?
And if some shop doesn't comply with the API requirements? They can put any label they want on their drums and hoses, or none at all. And they don't have to put anything on their receipts about the oil being "unlicensed". What's the API going to do - take out some newspaper ads complaining about a shop?
Probably see a lot more branding of Amsoil and Royal Purple now on receipts and hoses now.
Well it's not like all of their products are API licensed anyway.
What's the API going to do - take out some newspaper ads complaining about a shop?
There are state governments that are stepping in and looking at the potential revenue streams by enforcing compliance.
I could see the FTC worrying about false advertising if a vehicle requires a certain spec'd oil and finds that shops are routinely ignoring the requirement.
The funny part is that these new regulations are coming out, but do you recall seeing anything about them?
Just don't use the entire bottle or you can plug up your heater core.
The best stuff I ever used was by a company called Motor Purr. They are probably long out of business.
They had a radiator stop leak that looked like brass dust suspended in honey.
I had a '64 Impala SS 409 that had a leaking heater core. The car had A/C so changing the core was a nasty job. I used a half bottle of Motor Purr and the leak was stopped for the two more years I owned the car and, yes, the heater still worked.
Man, I wish I had that car now!
The entities involved are doing nothing to inform neither the consumers nor the shops of the changes. I'll post the links in a few days, meanwhile lets see if some of the readers can track some of this down and post the information first.
The main point here is when this stuff is as hard as this is to find, why should anyone be expected to know about it?
Florida seems to be a bit overboard, and I don't even see anything about motor oil in a quick skim.
Maybe because consumers come here looking for advice?
I like John R's explanation.
http://robisonservice.blogspot.com/2013/09/coming-soon-new-standards-for.html
"Walk the aisles of your local mass merchandiser. Read the labels on the backs of the fifty-some different oils they should have in stock. You will be lucky to find one single product that meets the Mercedes 229 spec, and you may not find any! The same will be true for the VW or BMW requirements. If you install an oil that does not meet specs for your car you are taking a big risk."
Now, someone popping over to Walmart may pay attention to the weight or they may just decide to go with a 5W20 because it's a "gas saving" oil. Or they'll buy the "high mileage" oil because their ride has 50,000 miles on it and it's on sale this week. Do you think the Waltons are going to put a big sign in the aisle saying "using the wrong may destroy your engine" or stamp that on the sales receipt?
Looking for advice? Get a car with an engine that will take a nice, normal generic (but SAE/API approved) oil that you can find most anywhere.
I honestly believe in my mind that if that Mercedes didn't get that "229 spec" oil that absolutely nothing adverse would happen providing an otherwise quality oil were used.
Just my opinion but I suppose I could be somehow wrong?
I guess I'll have to enter this contest and get some funding for my hood welding, just add an additive port idea. Oh shoot, bet I'm not eligible since an Edmunds VP is one of the judges. Okay, you are welcome to use it yourself Isell. :-)
That's not uncommon when you are looking at the top shops around the country. But you got to remember you have to use an oil that is approved for the manufacturers specifications. For the consumers that's easy if they choose the right shop.
It not only can it does.
I honestly believe in my mind that if that Mercedes didn't get that "229 spec" oil that absolutely nothing adverse would happen providing an otherwise quality oil were used
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.eea470a/31
http://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/406168-how-often-do-you-get-oil-change.ht- ml
"a very small number of Mercedes-Benz owners have experienced oil sludge and fewer still experienced related engine damage from the earlier use of conventional motor oil, particularly when FSS service intervals were not carefully followed.
we will cover ... in the unlikely event of any future oil sludging or related engine damage in your vehicle from the earlier use of conventional, approved motor oil (API SH or S)."
That said, I'd be irritated if I had purchased one and was informed a few years later that I had to switch to synthetic, which is what MB did here.
It wouldn't for me because I don't let my oil go that far. Call me wrong but 5000 miles on top quality dino oil wouldn't have caused a sludge problem I wouldn't think.
Still grumpy?
I commute about 100 miles a day, and change oil at 5000 miles. Never lost an engine due to oil failure yet. Mobil 1 or Castrol syn oil less than $30 for a change at Walmart. Semi syn oil-Motorcraft or such less than $20.
Maybe fancy car dealers use the "special" oil.....or more likely just charge a "special" price.
I commute about 100 miles a day, and change oil at 5000 miles.
At that kind of mileage, depending on what you drive and if you are using the correct product you are changing your oil at least 2500 miles too soon today.
BMW's will easily run their 15,000 miles in conditions like that. My Escape will hit as much as 10,000 miles before it needs changed. Mercedes theoretically can hit 18,750 but it usually works out to 11,000 - 13,000 miles.
If you go back a few posts and the enforcement situation I referred to, the shops are going to find themselves cited and possibly fined if they aren't very specific about what product is going into someone's car. If a GM that requires dexos is serviced then the repair order must state that is exactly the product that was used. That's what John R does in a post a few threads ago and that's what I have been doing in my shop for a few years now. What consumers fail to see is that your objections amount to pressure to do the job incorrectly. Why would you want to seek out someone to service your car who ignores your manufacturers specs?
Tear it down and measure the actual wear or at least do a compression test on the puppy.
I have a 2002 Ford Explorer that you could take an identical picture of its internals at 164,000 miles that would match John R's picture. That vehicle also did a lot of towing in its early years which means it was worked very hard. My daughters 2004 Rav 4 with 167K on it is as clean as well.
Jump to my blog, you'll see some of a little video that I just went out and did.
http://johng673.blogspot.com/
That's my Escape and the oil life monitor is just over 30% life left (That's approx. 6000 miles since it was changed.) The car has over 65000 miles total.
I'll see what I need to do to make the video run smooth. I guess I could send it to You Tube and then link bank. I'll have to do that later when I have more time.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
One could also deduce that in an already kept-clean engine, any additives and detergents that are in a fresh oil change, are working at their peak ability in keeping dirt in suspension, rather than being used up prematurely in catch-up mode from an engine that isn't exposed to a fresh batch of these additives via frequent enough oil and filter changes.
Also, and I don't know this but suspect it...dirt that gets layered and layered, will insulate and hold uneven heat, and modern aluminum blocks (and heads of course) are designed to assist in managing heat and help ensure tolerances. Surely that is fairly important for longevity potential?
All that sounds good but how do you know someone didn't "chemically" scour the innards before opening the engine up and taking a pic?
You can spend some extra time and money chasing down the "right" oil and doing everything over and above the book, and get an extra decade of use out of your car. Or you can sort of keep up and probably manage that extra decade anyway.
Or you can hit a deer the day after it's out of warranty.
There's so many variables, it's hard for some of us to justify doing more than the bare minimum required in the owner's manual. Even if you do that, you may wind up with a engine that gels because of a small lubing orifice (aka Toyota).
It's kind of like looking at your dipstick. I don't think you can tell how well it's working or how much life is left in your oil, or your engine, just by looking at it. But you can analyze the oil and you can measure the cylinder wear.
Even better, get some bulk neutron-activated tracers and measure your engine wear in real time. But is it worth it for a passenger car? (link)
Overheating, even once, and obvious neglect/ignorance (starting and revving a cold engine like a mindless idiot in the dead of a cold winter morning) is not allowed and if so, all bets are off..
As for your link..haha....where do you come up with this stuff? I'm always intrigued with some of the stuff you dig up...too funny.. but interesting just the same..
You'll see the occasional ad that says that 99% of all F-150s or Corollas sold in the last X years are still on the road; well, I'd like to see the registration numbers for all cars sold as they age. Surely someone tracks that stuff (but I can't find *every* interesting link out there by myself. :-)).
"I never had a problem"...ya...but ask the 'next' owner of your vehicle whether they paid for your neglect..
I'm reminded of guys who ride bikes, and insist they never use the clutch cuz they have cassette style trannys. Well those same guys are the ones who has to have the next newest and greatest super bike that weighs 220 grams less than last year's model..Ask the poor bugger who ended up with his used bike, whether the thing is popping out of gear or suffering bent shift forks etc..all preventable if the original owner had simply used the clutch..
I would only say that when we paint any sort of business model with such a broad brush its easy to end up with an incorrect conclusion.
As an example, I can buy (as can anyone) the BMW LL spec OEM oil for my BMW at the local dealer cheaper than I can purchase Mobil 1 at the nearest Walmart (by about $.25/quart.
In addition, the local dealership often offers discount incentives on oil changes, and I've never been pressured in any way to purchase other items such as air filters, etc. when taking them up on one of their offers.
Every shop isn't trying to pick its customers' pockets, although I acknowledge there isn't any shortage of ones that are... As one will find in every business model.
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