Glad to see your posts, Exe3. Good to hear from you.
13k on Sedona. Check engine light came on again. Took it to dealer..."light came on in error; no problem". yeah, except the 30 mile drive to the dealer for a "mistake".
Saw 4 Sedonas this weekend in Houston. I had not seen any, then saw 4 on Saturday. I think the last one I saw was just as surprised to see me. Seems like she followed me almost all the way home. I thought it might be my startling good looks; but then I came back to reality (translation: sarcasm from wife).
First - I don't like ABS. True - they help you stop the vehicle in a straight line....
I have to disagree. The point of ABS is NOT to stop in a straight line! When a vehicle is in a panic stop configuration, it will continue in a straight line, (physics: an object will continue in a straight line until another force is encountered) no matter how many steering inputs are made. The wheels lose all traction with the road riding a layer of tread grease and cannot produce a force to alter the direction of the vehicle.
With ABS, the brake pedal can be depressed to the radiator, and the ability to steer the vehicle is maintained! This is huge. Unfortunately, to be most effective, the driver has to know what the options are, and practice the concept of "having an out". Again, unfortunately, in those two, three or four seconds at most, the "conventional" driver training is to avoid hitting the car in front of you, not thinking how you can steer around it.
This is really important. The point of ABS is not to stop in straight line. It is to maintain control of the vehicle. I would recommend you practice this someday in vehicles with and without ABS. You may be surprised by the results.
Am buying Sedona EX this week. All options, 22861. Question- Anyone install TV/VCP in theirs? If so what worked best? Saw overhead unit at Circuit City for $550 + $150 install, but don't know if want to pay that much. May just go with TV/VCR combo between front seats. any problems fitting with the tray table? Also remember reading someone's suggestion for conditioning leather seats, What was that?
The interior reading lights for my EX just went out. They work when I press the switch on the dash console, don't work when I switch the rear hatch to "ON", and don't work independently. Strange. I'll probably wait for something else to go wrong before I take it in. MC126: The TV/VCR option may not work well with the console. I looked into that before I purchased a portable DVD player. The weight on those is pretty significant (lightest one I found for 9" TV was over 30 lbs.) Not sure how long the console would hold up with that kinda weight over a prolonged period. Not a whole lotta room there either. The 9" would have just barely squeezed in. Mfbono2: Thanks for the tip. I checked it out and built one from velcro straps, some old canvas, and handles from a duffle bag that works under the same principle. Cost me a heckuva lot less, and has more "character"
Actually wasn't very clear on my last post. Thanks, for the response. Don't mean to put tv/vcp on console. Thinking about putting on the floor and meant would the tray stand interfere with being able to do that? Am not picking up my Sedona until later this week so can't fully picture how much room I have.
Also read earlier posts about windnoise with the sunroof, anyone recomend the deflector and can/should someone with little skill (me) do it themselves?
On the cover, there is a portable AC/DC Memorex 9" Color TV/VCP. They throw in the carrying case for the TV as well. In the ad, it look as though the carrying case is also a harness system for strapping the TV between the two front Captains Chairs! All for $174.77! If anyone else buys this, please let us know how it works! Thanks! Gill
2003 Honda Odyssey EX-LRES - Midnight Blue Pearl 2004 Honda Accord EX-L Graphite Pearl 2007 Honda Civic EX - Atomic Blue 2013 Honda Civic LX - Crimson Pearl
It depends on your circumstances, of course, but we just used the portable dvd on the maiden voyage, on the plane, subsequently in the rental van, and then in the hotel room. Kind of hard to do that with a tv when air transport is involved.
Just something I thought some might consider. The unit we got is a bit heavy, but the low center of gravity and non-skid base make it pretty stable. I plan to rig up a few fastening straps on the fold-away center console to keep it from flying on sudden stops.
I saw the Target ad as well...mighty appealing. If it "sits" well in the van it certainly offers great flexibility for how it can be used (ie. moving to another vehicle or taking along on outside outings).
I have a 5 month old Kia Sedona with less than 8000 miles on it. The brakes have begung squeaking. We took it back to the dealership in Buford, GA where the adjusted the rear brakes and informed us it would just happen again because of the type of brake pads they use! Has anyone else experienced this issue? My salesman suggest I check with NAPA to see if they had a better brake pad! Thoughts????
Here's a link to just about every imaginable mobile video gizmo made. I personally opted for a custom dvd install with flip down overhead 7 inch screen, 3 cordless headphones, fm modulator and a gameport but this site has many options for those looking at a not so permanent package.
What if any is the difference between a Canadian Kia and an American Kia. I know there are a few accessories in the Canadian market. I want the side step bars! How about mechanically? Here is why I ask. I have reposessed our Kia from my wife. I am very happy with the Sedona except for the several minor defects that this is presenting {sliding passenger door, squeaky brakes, remote does not remotely work, other fixed issues} nonetheless we came across a Dodge Caravan dealer buying caravan's in Canada and selling them in the midwest. Can you tell me if this is legal, do they make mechanical modifications for the odometer, speedometer, emissions? It seems to be a rather questionable situation. I do not want to talk about Dodge on the highly coveted Kia board, but I think this is a good question. Maybe the northerners will start buying in Windsor etc... By the way, I too have never seen another Sedona on the road. I feel so lonesome. And as always a small issue, is the rear windshield water supposed to dribble or spray on the window? Thanks!!!!
With this bag, TV/VCR is fully enclosed except the front, how did the electronic components dissipate the heat? the TV/VCR may smoke or your Sedona may catch fire!!!!!!!
A lot of good quality previously cherished vehicles find their way from Canada to the US. The main reason for this is that new cars are a great deal cheaper in Canada than in the US. Consequently prices for previously cherished cars here are correspondingly lower, although higher than they might otherwise be because there are fewer available to Canadians. I understand that a large number of fleet vehicles also find their way to the US. As for whether it is legal or not, yes it's certainly legal, very few modifications are necessary since emissions and safety standards are very similar. What they do about the odometer/speedometer issue I have no idea. Another issue to beware is that most manufacturers (I think Nissan is currently an exception) do not honour Canadian warranties in the US. By the way Kia Canada's warranty is 'only' 5 years bumper to bumper, no 10 year powertrain warranty.
Man, I was out of town for a couple days, and it took me an hour to catch up on this board! I'm really beginning to resent how the pesky irritation of employment is cutting into my internet time.
Well, as I posted earlier, I like to keep a spare key in my wallet just in case I lock the keys in the car. It's saved my keyster (har, har) a couple times. Had one made for the Sedona at Trak Auto...wouldn't even fit into the keyhole. I finally got around to calling the dealer yesterday. For a couple bucks, they can cut me a slim key, without the thick plastic sleeve, that will fit in my wallet, but it will only open the door. For a spare that you can start the car with, gotta get the blank with a chip in it, from the dealer. It's a relative bargain at fifty (that's 5-0) dollars. HOWEVER, to make it work, they tell me, the chip has to be programmed. This takes an hour and costs ANOTHER EIGHTY-FIVE BUCKS! For $135, I don't think the orange-haired, slack-jawed teenager will be getting his own key.
Nesseca: I have a Thule four-bike, trailer hitch mounted bike rack, which I used on my Crapostar. I'll go find the model number, if you're interested. I like it, because it mounts to the hitch in minutes, is easy to completely remove when you don't need it, and is very solid and secure. It ALSO has a quick-release feature that allows you to fold it down, even with four bikes on it, to allow access to the rear door. Very handy. The disadvantage is that it adds about three feet to the length of the vehicle, which can be an issue in some parking spaces. However, the Sedona is so tall that I felt a roof mount rack would be too much hassle. Plus, I couldn't load it in my carport or enter most parking garages.
Now, as for installing the hitch.......I had an RV guy put the hitch on my Junkostar. Following Excelent3's excellent advice, found here in this forum, I purchased a 1 1/4" hitch for the Sedona on e-trailer.com. It arrived yesterday! I've got a couple days off, so I intend to try installing it. Doesn't look TOO hard; I was actually able to view the instruction in PDF format on the e-trailer website. Still, I've learned never to be smug about any auto work. Plus, it's 18 degrees today. If I don't crush my fingers with a wrench, or get them too frostbitten to type, I'll report back on the hitch installation in the next 24-48 hours. (And this will be a REAL handyman experience, not like Excelent3's "It was easy; only took twenty minutes!" The man's a pro....it'll probably take me five hours, four bandaids, and an ace wrap.)
Since we are talking about hitches, I ordered mine from JC Whitney for $109.95 minus 10% off with a coupon code that I have and a lower shipping rate than e-trailer. I also ordered the tail light converter for $9.99. For those that have done a hitch job, how did you do the light wiring? I have not yet investigated the Sedona's electrical wiring to see where I can tap in. I have wired all my previous vehicles but if anyone has done their Sedona, let me know to save me some time in looking around and finding the best way BTW, the coupon code is ACGN660 for 10% off of orders $80 to $199.99 or 15% off of orders $200.00 or more. It is good until June 30, 2002 .
Yeah, that's a good price. I think etrailer was $109 and there was no coupon. Got it in five days, at least. And I only do bike racks, no trailer, so no wiring. Good luck. Excelent3 should be able to help with wiring advice. As a matter of fact, I think he should post his home phone # on this board, so we can call him anytime with repair and towing questions. Try at 2 in the morning first; you'll be more likely to catch him at home!
I can personally vouch for the quality of the heater in the Sedona. We live in a city considerably north of Winnipeg and at least as cold in the winter. The front heater puts out well and the rear is quick and hot.
This is the first minivan that I have driven in the winter that can keep the rear side windows clear at highway speeds and -10F. The windshield defroster does not get really hot, but still seems to work, especially if the A/C button is pushed (dries out the interior air).
Due to the lack of temperature control for the rear heater some (US?) Sedonas appear to have had a dampner put on the rear heater output to lessen the number of broiled lower legs for 3rd-row passengers. Hopefully Sedonas destined for the Great White North have not been similarly modified.
BTW, I have complained to Kia Canada about the lack of rear heater temperature controls. They at first responded politely that I was mistaken, and that indeed the rear heater temp was controllable as per the owner's manual. I, equally politely, informed them that they were quite wrong, and that a short perusal of this Town Hall will indicate that mine is not an isolated problem.
I recommend that all Sedona owners complain to their distributor. If we make enough noise the factory may come up with a fix.
A few dealers around here (Westchester County, New York) were offering the LX for $18,995 (MSRP $19,595). I went to Yonkers AutoPark and talked them down to $18,595. They processed everything the same day and I drove home in my new Sedona 3 hours after I said yes to the deal. I put down $8500 and financed the rest at 0.0% interest for 3 years - payments are $319 mo.
I love the van even though I've always hated automatic transmissions. It shifts beautifully and has more power than I expected. I'm still reading the book to find all the little goodies included.
You finally came out from hibernating in your Sedona ehe?? The hardest part of installing the hitch is to get all four bolts in....HAHA...but that's the truth. Just get them all started before you crank them down. You'll be proud of yourself when you are done...because you can't see the hitch!!
Yolo-
Ide be careful of that $9.99 wiring setup. It is my understanding that with the 3-2 wire setup it has you MUST use a converter. You can do serious electrical damage with a T-Type connector in these computerized cars.....just ask you local U-Haul dealer, they will tell you this. To substantiate this I find it somewhat concerning that E-Trailer has been advertising a T-connector made by Drawtite for some time, but are not providing it.......hmmm....in fact after I called Draw-Tite Engineering in Michigan they told me they would not be available until June or July because they were experiencing resistance problems, obviously they do not want the liability of an untested product messing up computerized cars. Let us know how you come out with your wiring setup.
Yes you want to be careful splicing for brake lights.
You could render things such as your cruise control, or even your shift interlock (I guess the Sedona has one of those, but what do I know, I'm an MPV "infiltrator" 8^) ) inoperative. Best case mistake, you don't have brake lights. Worst case, you can't shift into gear because the interlock circuit doesn't know you have your foot on the brake.
So be careful what you connect, short, etc.
And as Fred said, much of this is tied to the computer, so mistakes can be even more costly.
I doubt even the excellent BtoB warranty covers user error.
I am aware of the self powered tail light converters and I assumed that's what I was getting but I won't know for sure until the package arrives. For $9.99 it doesn't sound like I will be getting the correct one but that's what was recommended for the Sedona hitch. I'm sure misprints can occur and I will only install a self powered converter.
Well it looks like I have found the first minor problem on my EX. The driver side slider got harder to open as some have posted here. I found the problem. It is the rubber weather strip on the bottom front section that the door is marring into. If I push the weather strip down into the corner, it is smooth as ever but it still won't stay down all the way. IMO, what happened was that the install of the weather strip was probably started on the opposite side or top of the opening and it got tight as it made its way to the front lower corner section thus not seating all the way into the radius corner. Being that there is about a 1/4 inch play in it (pushing it into the corner), the front of the lower bracket of the door rubs on it and binds the smooth operation. There is a mark on the rubber from the door's bracket just slightly rubing on it. Should be an easy dealer fix by installing a new rubber seal starting in the front lower section seating it nice and tight and working around the opening. Maybe the existing seal is also reuseable? Either way, not a big deal. Hope this helps some of you that have posted on the slider not opening smoothly. Check the rubber weather strip around the slider opening.
Marcolius, Thanks for the info on the bike rack. What is the model number for that Thule rack you mentioned? Good luck and godspeed with your installation.
Nesseca, my model is Thule Hitching Post, #984. Bought it about 5 years ago, in case the model # has changed. However, it's made for a 2" receiver hitch. Thule model #985, on the other hand, is made for a 1 1/4" hitch, which was the only size I could find for my Sedona. I was able to order a 2" to 1 1/4" adapter, though, so I can fit the #984 onto my new hitch, as long as I'm only hauling bikes and not a 20 foot travel trailer. And where did I get that key recommendation? (I'm beginning to sound like a broken record, here)........Excelent3, of course.
Hey, Ex (Fred, right?): now, you make this newcomer to this board feel as welcome as you did the rest of us. Go on over to his house (he probably lives in Alaska, not Janesville), and install that hitch for him. And shine his leather, too. Me, joking? I'm the soul of serious debate here, man. Just don't talk about putting that Sedona critic's head on a stick in your front yard anymore. If you get tossed from the site, we'll never tow again!
Nice of you to say. Which reminds me, I'm changing my handle to 'ABS-freak'
Also, came across this link. I think this review was posted before, but in re-reading it, I think I may have written a few of the paragraphs. More to the point, it's an excellent read for the (wild and crafty) lurking prospective buyers....
I learned a thing or two as a sales trainer and a military man called "dramatic impact" It has it's place. A patriot I am, and I have zero tolerance for terrorists, cowards, traitors.
And thus didn't get to my hitch. Maybe this weekend. I know you're all on the edge of your seats. I suppose it would be cheaper for me to send a plane ticket, Madison to DC, to Excelent3, and ask him to install it, than it would be to ruin my new car. Fred, a case of beer, and whatever you'd like for dinner, man.
More on keys (again!): Went to my dealer. No, Joe Partsman says, consulting his manual, the Sedona key is NOT a programmable. They can make me a spare for a couple of bucks. But.....they all have that thick plastic sleeve that would make it like storing a pair of tin snips in my wallet. I suppose I could sand off the plastic......
Oh, and this year's Consumer Reports annual car issue is out. They haven't done a full review of the Sedona, but they did include a quick capsule, as they do on all models. Mostly favorable comments, though of course they can't evaluate reliability yet, a key element in their overall recommendations. Two criticisms: they found the handling mushy in turns (I might agree with them there) and, like some other reviewers, called it "underpowered"! Is Kia supplying them with hamster-powered models? This van isn't perfect, but the LAST criticism I would make of it would be "underpowered"! I have to constantly watch my lead foot to make sure I'm not speeding, even with a full load.
That review is actually from a site called New Car Test Drive .. www.nctd.com.. its has some good info for the consumer. I have a question for you all.. I was thinking of getting the spoiler for my Sedona and called the parts guy at my dealer and he quoted $185 for just the part plus needing to send it to a body shop for painting and installation for additional charge. Is this typical ?? I was hoping it came already to just mount .. anyone have comments ??? thanks.. oh.. one other thing im still in the "break in" period, only 300 miles on the van, should I change the oil at 1000 miles ?? whats best ?? Thanks again...
I got a speed ticket while driving uphill on Highway 5 in San Fernando valley from LA to San Jose, it was 100 miles uphill with my right foot lightly tapped the gas pedal, I surely have some reservations about Consumer report annual car issue's comment that the Sedona is "underpowered". I could tell consumer report rated it with the specification from the brochure rather than driving one. I am a long time Consumer report subscriber for 13 years, go figured I stopped it a couple years ago. They provide great solid data and opinions but not excellent solid data and opinions like it used to be.
Just when we thought we had it all figured out - Canadian Sedonas have the rear seat mat and US Sedonas don't - I made it a point to actually look back there in my LX (hey, I never sit there, OK). Guess what I found, a beautiful form-fitted mat that goes all along the back bench just as the middle bench. However, it does not extend into the cargo area. Sorry to throw a monkey wrench into things.
I haven't bothered to find out whether the factory-made 3rd row floor mat is available through Kia dealers (either U.S. or Canadian). Has anyone done this legwork? I'm sure the factory mat would be a bit pricey, but it would be nice to have.
The new C&D has a write up of the Sedona. A pretty good review--not great. They say you'd be better off in an American or Japanese van simply because of predicted depreciation--but seemed to like it overall. They did, however, give some interesting info about the build of the van that I did not know. They mention the full size spare in the steel cradle instead of haning a mini spare on a cable like most others have. They mention the steel gas tank instead of plastic. They say the Sedona has solid steel reinforcing struts not found on most vans. They even mention the auxiliary oil cooler not required on these vans. It seems to me the extra weight associated with Sedonas is teid up in a more substantial frame and build quality. People love to say "Kia may give a big warranty and have a lot of features, but they skimp on the build quality." I don't think anyone can say that about the Sedona.
"No differences in claim frequencies or average loss payment amounts, under either collision coverage or property damage liability, were found for cars with standard antilock brakes compared with the same models without antilocks. In almost every instance, the difference in the frequency of claims was not statistically significant." ... ... "the comparisons presented in this report provide no evidence that the introduction of antilock brakes as standard equipment reduces collision or property damage liability losses resulting from real-world crashes."
Quoted from Insurance Special Report A-41 (January 1994) with last quote almost identical in second Report A-47 (January 1995), Highway Loss Data Institute, 1005 N. Glebe Road, Suite 800, Arlington, VA 22201, USA.
One of the problems is that, apparently, people are not "standing on the brake" when they need to come to a panic stop to avoid a collision. Our driving habits are too ingrained and it's hard to remember not to step lightly or modulate the brakes to avoid a lock-up. Also, if you have a flat and drive on the "donut" supplied by many manufacturers (not a problem with the Sedona) you will throw the ABS callibration off. Some cars have a wired connection that you have to unplug when you take the spare out so as to turn off the ABS. Even changing the tire size can cause a problem.
Although car antilocks perform well on the test track, there's no evidence they have made significant reductions in the number of on-the-road crashes. A 1994 Highway Loss Data Institute (HLDI) study and a subsequent 1995 study compare insurance claims for groups of otherwise identical cars with and without antilocks, finding no differences in the overall frequency or cost of crashes for which insurance claims for vehicle damage are filed. Because antilocks should make the most difference on wet and slippery roads, researchers also studied insurance claims experience in 29 northern states during winter months. Even here they found no difference in the frequency of insurance claims for vehicles with and without antilock brakes. A 1996 Institute study, as well as a 2000 update, reported no difference in the overall fatal crash involvement of cars with and without antilocks.
Federal studies of car antilocks are consistent with Institute and HLDI findings. According to one federal report, "the overall, net effect of antilock brakes" on both police-reported crashes and fatal crashes "was close to zero." The federal studies of effects of antilocks on passenger vehicle crashes found positive effects on wet roads and negative effects for run-off-road crashes. These two opposite results cancel each other. Leonard Evans, a researcher with General Motors, reported that antilock-equipped cars were less likely to rear-end other vehicles but more likely to have other vehicles rear-end them. Again, the net result was little effect on overall crash risk. In a study done for auto manufacturers, Failure Analysis Associates reported a net beneficial effect of antilocks on nonfatal crashes but no effect on fatal crashes.
I just finished a 3 week experience shopping for an EX for my wife. We picked it up today at Kia of Blue Ridge in Blue Ridge,Ga, a small mountain town 80 miles from Atlanta. Their attitude and candor was great and I would highly reccomend them. We bought an EX with SR, Home Link and Two Tone for 21,660. They also agreed to charge a reduced documentation fee of 199, whereas some Atlanta dealers wanted 500-600. This item seems to be an add on profit and not justified by actual items
This dealership was professional especially Dave Devito. i am not a "van fan", but I am impressed by the ride and accessories, but the warranty is what sold me. i would stay away from All Star Kia and Kia Mall of Georgia. Town Center was decent and we would have bought there except that they were going to charge us to pick up the very same car from the other dealer. Kia of Blue Ridge will sell at 3% over invoice. We have no children left at home, but my wife teaches and we have a daughter in school 4 hours from here, so it did make sense to do this, as it is the heaviest and perhaps most comfortable van.
Odyssey and Sienna, sure, but better depreciation on American vans?? In the real world Windstars and Caravans depreciate every bit as quickly as the Sedona will, even in worse case. In fact, loaded models cost so much more than loaded Sedonas that they will likely depreciate much worse in terms of actual dollar amount. I know, I'm the owner of a nearly trade-worthless Windstar.
As has been stated before here, unless you intend to sell it in a year or two, I think depreciation is an overrated issue with these vans. Driving what best fits your needs and likes is more important than a few thousand difference in amount of depreciation over several years. And over 6 years or more the difference should even out pretty well, especially when you factor in interest savings or investment income from the amount saved in initial purchase price.
So what are you saying? You did get rear mats on your US Sedona? Or are they just on the Canadian model? Should I have gotten one in the US? Do I question my dealer about it?
Has anyone noticed that the spare on their ex is alloy to. My 2000 olds silhouette with all its options, which were great btw, could not supply a alloy wheel as a spare. Its funny, my wife misses her silho, but loves the sedona. She's claustaphobic because the headroom is just not their, but can't keep her foot out of the accelerator. Had to unload her silho because the depreciation was killing me and warranty was gone and air bag light keep coming on. Had our sedona 4 days 520 miles and i smell coolant (antifreeze). I'm hoping its just a lose clamp or something. Has anyone had this problem. Let me know. Btw whats the deal with the power passenger seat, power lean back, no up or down motion, if you are semi tall (5'10), your legs are cramped. It looks like the floor is raised on the passenger side, your better off sitting in the back.
I looked at the price sticker (actually saved it) and under Standard Features - interior - it say "cupholders for all rows, floor mats." This can be interpreted as mats for all rows as well as cupholders, OR that there are "some" floor mats. Unfortunately, I don't have the literature anymore (most likely misplaced in the filing system at home). I should think that would list the items included. A quick look in the owners manual didn't mention anything about mats. I have an LX BTW.
I called the Kia consumers affairs office at 800.333.4KIA to ask about the rear mat being a standard. She stated that the Sedona only come with the 2 front mats and that one one other mat comes with it and is "interchangeable" between the middle and rear rows. She also said that the dealers are adding in "aftermarket" mats for the rear row as a courtesy and that's why many poster here have stated that they've been included in their vans... so does this settle this ?? who knows all I know is "no mat for me".. adios
Picked up my EX last night. Checked for Rear Mat and it has one that is obviously designed for it. Mentioned this to dealer and he said that he thought they all came with them as a customer last week had also commented that he was surprised to find one.
Regarding earlier posts regarding TV/VCP. tray table will interfere with the ability to use one on floor. Looks like the hanging model will be what I go with.
Comments
Lexol, Carpet,.....
Glad to see your posts, Exe3. Good to hear from you.
13k on Sedona. Check engine light came on again. Took it to dealer..."light came on in error; no problem". yeah, except the 30 mile drive to the dealer for a "mistake".
Saw 4 Sedonas this weekend in Houston. I had not seen any, then saw 4 on Saturday. I think the last one I saw was just as surprised to see me. Seems like she followed me almost all the way home. I thought it might be my startling good looks; but then I came back to reality (translation: sarcasm from wife).
RGDS to all
Hok
I have to disagree. The point of ABS is NOT to stop in a straight line! When a vehicle is in a panic stop configuration, it will continue in a straight line, (physics: an object will continue in a straight line until another force is encountered) no matter how many steering inputs are made. The wheels lose all traction with the road riding a layer of tread grease and cannot produce a force to alter the direction of the vehicle.
With ABS, the brake pedal can be depressed to the radiator, and the ability to steer the vehicle is maintained! This is huge. Unfortunately, to be most effective, the driver has to know what the options are, and practice the concept of "having an out". Again, unfortunately, in those two, three or four seconds at most, the "conventional" driver training is to avoid hitting the car in front of you, not thinking how you can steer around it.
This is really important. The point of ABS is not to stop in straight line. It is to maintain control of the vehicle. I would recommend you practice this someday in vehicles with and without ABS. You may be surprised by the results.
MC126: The TV/VCR option may not work well with the console. I looked into that before I purchased a portable DVD player. The weight on those is pretty significant (lightest one I found for 9" TV was over 30 lbs.) Not sure how long the console would hold up with that kinda weight over a prolonged period. Not a whole lotta room there either. The 9" would have just barely squeezed in.
Mfbono2: Thanks for the tip. I checked it out and built one from velcro straps, some old canvas, and handles from a duffle bag that works under the same principle. Cost me a heckuva lot less, and has more "character"
Also read earlier posts about windnoise with the sunroof, anyone recomend the deflector and can/should someone with little skill (me) do it themselves?
Thanks!
Gill
2004 Honda Accord EX-L Graphite Pearl
2007 Honda Civic EX - Atomic Blue
2013 Honda Civic LX - Crimson Pearl
Just something I thought some might consider. The unit we got is a bit heavy, but the low center of gravity and non-skid base make it pretty stable. I plan to rig up a few fastening straps on the fold-away center console to keep it from flying on sudden stops.
Though I don't have my Sedona yet, I'm gonna take a look at the TV/VCR tomorrow. Seems like a good deal!
http://www.guytoys.net/tvconsole/index.html
How do you find the heating capability on those cold, cold days and nights.
That is one of my biggest concerns in this van.
Anyone else live in a very cold climate.
I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba and it can get to 30 or 40 below, and I don't want a van that can't at least keep "ME" above freezing! ;-)
Any comments would be appreciated. - Greg
Here is why I ask. I have reposessed our Kia from my wife.
By the way, I too have never seen another Sedona on the road. I feel so lonesome. And as always a small issue, is the rear windshield water supposed to dribble or spray on the window?
Thanks!!!!
Well, as I posted earlier, I like to keep a spare key in my wallet just in case I lock the keys in the car. It's saved my keyster (har, har) a couple times. Had one made for the Sedona at Trak Auto...wouldn't even fit into the keyhole. I finally got around to calling the dealer yesterday. For a couple bucks, they can cut me a slim key, without the thick plastic sleeve, that will fit in my wallet, but it will only open the door. For a spare that you can start the car with, gotta get the blank with a chip in it, from the dealer. It's a relative bargain at fifty (that's 5-0) dollars. HOWEVER, to make it work, they tell me, the chip has to be programmed. This takes an hour and costs ANOTHER EIGHTY-FIVE BUCKS! For $135, I don't think the orange-haired, slack-jawed teenager will be getting his own key.
Nesseca: I have a Thule four-bike, trailer hitch mounted bike rack, which I used on my Crapostar. I'll go find the model number, if you're interested. I like it, because it mounts to the hitch in minutes, is easy to completely remove when you don't need it, and is very solid and secure. It ALSO has a quick-release feature that allows you to fold it down, even with four bikes on it, to allow access to the rear door. Very handy. The disadvantage is that it adds about three feet to the length of the vehicle, which can be an issue in some parking spaces. However, the Sedona is so tall that I felt a roof mount rack would be too much hassle. Plus, I couldn't load it in my carport or enter most parking garages.
Now, as for installing the hitch.......I had an RV guy put the hitch on my Junkostar. Following Excelent3's excellent advice, found here in this forum, I purchased a 1 1/4" hitch for the Sedona on e-trailer.com. It arrived yesterday! I've got a couple days off, so I intend to try installing it. Doesn't look TOO hard; I was actually able to view the instruction in PDF format on the e-trailer website. Still, I've learned never to be smug about any auto work. Plus, it's 18 degrees today. If I don't crush my fingers with a wrench, or get them too frostbitten to type, I'll report back on the hitch installation in the next 24-48 hours. (And this will be a REAL handyman experience, not like Excelent3's "It was easy; only took twenty minutes!" The man's a pro....it'll probably take me five hours, four bandaids, and an ace wrap.)
Good to be back.
Mark
BTW, the coupon code is ACGN660 for 10% off of orders $80 to $199.99 or 15% off of orders $200.00 or more. It is good until June 30, 2002 .
This is the first minivan that I have driven in the winter that can keep the rear side windows clear at highway speeds and -10F. The windshield defroster does not get really hot, but still seems to work, especially if the A/C button is pushed (dries out the interior air).
Due to the lack of temperature control for the rear heater some (US?) Sedonas appear to have had a dampner put on the rear heater output to lessen the number of broiled lower legs for 3rd-row passengers. Hopefully Sedonas destined for the Great White North have not been similarly modified.
BTW, I have complained to Kia Canada about the lack of rear heater temperature controls. They at first responded politely that I was mistaken, and that indeed the rear heater temp was controllable as per the owner's manual. I, equally politely, informed them that they were quite wrong, and that a short perusal of this Town Hall will indicate that mine is not an isolated problem.
I recommend that all Sedona owners complain to their distributor. If we make enough noise the factory may come up with a fix.
I love the van even though I've always hated automatic transmissions. It shifts beautifully and has more power than I expected. I'm still reading the book to find all the little goodies included.
Yolo-
Ide be careful of that $9.99 wiring setup. It is my understanding that with the 3-2 wire setup it has you MUST use a converter. You can do serious electrical damage with a T-Type connector in these computerized cars.....just ask you local U-Haul dealer, they will tell you this. To substantiate this I find it somewhat concerning that E-Trailer has been advertising a T-connector made by Drawtite for some time, but are not providing it.......hmmm....in fact after I called Draw-Tite Engineering in Michigan they told me they would not be available until June or July because they were experiencing resistance problems, obviously they do not want the liability of an untested product messing up computerized cars. Let us know how you come out with your wiring setup.
At least as long as you don't have to deal with infiltraitors whos names are not worthy of mention.
You could render things such as your cruise control, or even your shift interlock (I guess the Sedona has one of those, but what do I know, I'm an MPV "infiltrator" 8^) ) inoperative. Best case mistake, you don't have brake lights. Worst case, you can't shift into gear because the interlock circuit doesn't know you have your foot on the brake.
So be careful what you connect, short, etc.
And as Fred said, much of this is tied to the computer, so mistakes can be even more costly.
I doubt even the excellent BtoB warranty covers user error.
FWIW
TB
MPV Infiltrator 8^)
Thanks for the info on the bike rack. What is the model number for that Thule rack you mentioned? Good luck and godspeed with your installation.
Hey, Ex (Fred, right?): now, you make this newcomer to this board feel as welcome as you did the rest of us. Go on over to his house (he probably lives in Alaska, not Janesville), and install that hitch for him. And shine his leather, too. Me, joking? I'm the soul of serious debate here, man. Just don't talk about putting that Sedona critic's head on a stick in your front yard anymore. If you get tossed from the site, we'll never tow again!
Mark
Also, came across this link. I think this review was posted before, but in re-reading it, I think I may have written a few of the paragraphs. More to the point, it's an excellent read for the (wild and crafty) lurking prospective buyers....
http://www.carbuytip.com/reviews/2002_kia_sedona.html
Guy Fawkes Day is quite something is it not??
http://www.bonefire.org/guy/
More on keys (again!): Went to my dealer. No, Joe Partsman says, consulting his manual, the Sedona key is NOT a programmable. They can make me a spare for a couple of bucks. But.....they all have that thick plastic sleeve that would make it like storing a pair of tin snips in my wallet. I suppose I could sand off the plastic......
Oh, and this year's Consumer Reports annual car issue is out. They haven't done a full review of the Sedona, but they did include a quick capsule, as they do on all models. Mostly favorable comments, though of course they can't evaluate reliability yet, a key element in their overall recommendations. Two criticisms: they found the handling mushy in turns (I might agree with them there) and, like some other reviewers, called it "underpowered"! Is Kia supplying them with hamster-powered models? This van isn't perfect, but the LAST criticism I would make of it would be "underpowered"! I have to constantly watch my lead foot to make sure I'm not speeding, even with a full load.
Thanks again...
exford "Your Thoughts About KIA" Mar 2, 2002 9:28pm
here's the link:
Quoted from Insurance Special Report A-41 (January 1994) with last quote almost identical in second Report A-47 (January 1995), Highway Loss Data Institute, 1005 N. Glebe Road, Suite 800, Arlington, VA 22201, USA.
One of the problems is that, apparently, people are not "standing on the brake" when they need to come to a panic stop to avoid a collision. Our driving habits are too ingrained and it's hard to remember not to step lightly or modulate the brakes to avoid a lock-up. Also, if you have a flat and drive on the "donut" supplied by many manufacturers (not a problem with the Sedona) you will throw the ABS callibration off. Some cars have a wired connection that you have to unplug when you take the spare out so as to turn off the ABS. Even changing the tire size can cause a problem.
For more on this subject, go to http://www.highwaysafety.org/safety_facts/qanda/antilock.htm#4 where you'l find, among other Q&As the following:
4. Do car antilocks reduce crashes?
Although car antilocks perform well on the test track, there's no evidence they have made significant reductions in the number of on-the-road crashes. A 1994 Highway Loss Data Institute (HLDI) study and a subsequent 1995 study compare insurance claims for groups of otherwise identical cars with and without antilocks, finding no differences in the overall frequency or cost of crashes for which insurance claims for vehicle damage are filed. Because antilocks should make the most difference on wet and slippery roads, researchers also studied insurance claims experience in 29 northern states during winter months. Even here they found no difference in the frequency of insurance claims for vehicles with and without antilock brakes. A 1996 Institute study, as well as a 2000 update, reported no difference in the overall fatal crash involvement of cars with and without antilocks.
Federal studies of car antilocks are consistent with Institute and HLDI findings. According to one federal report, "the overall, net effect of antilock brakes" on both police-reported crashes and fatal crashes "was close to zero." The federal studies of effects of antilocks on passenger vehicle crashes found positive effects on wet roads and negative effects for run-off-road crashes. These two opposite results cancel each other. Leonard Evans, a researcher with General Motors, reported that antilock-equipped cars were less likely to rear-end other vehicles but more likely to have other vehicles rear-end them. Again, the net result was little effect on overall crash risk. In a study done for auto manufacturers, Failure Analysis Associates reported a net beneficial effect of antilocks on nonfatal crashes but no effect on fatal crashes.
This dealership was professional especially Dave Devito. i am not a "van fan", but I am impressed by the ride and accessories, but the warranty is what sold me. i would stay away from
All Star Kia and Kia Mall of Georgia. Town Center was decent and we would have bought there except that they were going to charge us to pick up the very same car from the other dealer.
Kia of Blue Ridge will sell at 3% over invoice.
We have no children left at home, but my wife teaches and we have a daughter in school 4 hours from here, so it did make sense to do this, as it is the heaviest and perhaps most comfortable van.
As has been stated before here, unless you intend to sell it in a year or two, I think depreciation is an overrated issue with these vans. Driving what best fits your needs and likes is more important than a few thousand difference in amount of depreciation over several years. And over 6 years or more the difference should even out pretty well, especially when you factor in interest savings or investment income from the amount saved in initial purchase price.
Regarding earlier posts regarding TV/VCP. tray table will interfere with the ability to use one on floor. Looks like the hanging model will be what I go with.