Kia Sedona (2005 and Earlier)

philliplc

Also bizarre - the normal maintenance schedule doesn't call for a tranny fluid change till 105k. That doesn't seem like a very good idea, even with the standard tranny cooler. I think the typical recommendation is more like changing every 30k or sooner.

mc126

Read the post by sritrovato regarding Allentown dealer selling for 1% over Invoice. Can someone tell me, do the invoice prices from kbb and edmunds include the dealer holdback? If the listed invoices are correct, I might have to make a six-seven hour drive from WV. My wife has family in Philly so could see them while we were at it.

sritrovato

To mc126
When I priced (on Edmunds I think???) they didn't show ANY dealer holdback. Don't know how Kia pays their dealers for sure. Most sites show true market value as equal to MSRP. However, I saw invoice price on the paperwork at the dealer I visited and he was offering a pretty decent deal without any negotiation. Have since heard from him about saving me "even more money". I think 1-1 1/2 over is definitely doable until this van gets really hot. Try Keystonedodge.com for that ad, but I can't believe that you couldn't match their offer somewhere closer. That's what I intend to try with my local dealer. Good luck. sritrovato

philliplc

I think it has been established that there is holdback, despite what Edmunds indicates. However, the holdback (and ad fees) might be itemized on the invoice the dealer is using to figure the 1% over, and might not be figured into the Edmunds invoice price. In other words, the dealer may be using a number $700+ higher than Edmunds as a base.

I think it's probably less confusing just to keep track of what people are paying and use that as a comparison basis. $21,800 is the lowest price I've seen (now twice) for a loaded or nearly loaded EX. Anything around $22k looks like a reasonable number to feel good about with, at least at this point. You could hope for better, but if inventory dries up, prices could easily stiffen again. Another thing to check out is when the current financing incentives (doesn't get much better than 0%) expires - might be the end of February.

darenio

I found used Sedona EX at NJ dealership. Van is spotless, has 6000 miles price 19999.Dealer told me it coms with 3/36 warranty, because that is Kia policy. To get original warranty I have to get brand new van. I find it hard to believe. Can anyone advice?

sritrovato

The 0.0 interest rate IS slated to end at the end of February. That doesn't mean they won't extend it, but if the deal is there, now's the time! About that used vehicle, I'd barter for a $0. or very low priced extended warranty. Or, you could work that price a bit. If people are buying them new for $21,800 with the full coverage, I don't think they're giving you as good a deal as they can. Good luck!

philliplc

If the dealer is trying to sell you an extended warranty, sounds like he's being a little dishonest. Otherwise he's misinformed. The 5yr/60k basic bumper to bumper warranty is fully transferable. It states that clearly in the warranty info booklet that should be with the owners manual in the glove box. The only way the basic 5/60 warranty is voided is due to improper maintenance, and the vehicle hasn't been driven enough for that to be a factor. The 5 year part would be from the in service date - the date of purchase by the original owner, so that would potentially cut up to 7 months or so off the time, but the average driver hits 60k well before 5 years anyway.

New Kias also come with a 10yr/100k powertrain warranty (engine, transmission) which is not transferable, so you do lose that advantage by buying used. The actual value of the powertrain warranty is a personal thing (worth more to those who plan to keep the vehicle long term).

What options does the EX you are looking at have?
If it isn't loaded (mainly if it doesn't have leather and importantly, ABS), you might be able to get a new one for pretty close to that price - the dealer probably has quite a bit of room to dicker on the one you're looking at. If it has the leather/ABS combo (+ maybe sunroof, 2-tone etc.), price looks better.

gregoriusm

Here is an article that refers to the Hyundai Sante Fe SUV, but gives you an idea how Hyundai and hence Kia products are significantly improving.

http://www.canadacar.com/magazine/articlesummary.cfm?id=205

... Greg

arjay1

I have seen reference to 0% interest from Kia through February. Edmunds list as low as 1.9% going up to 4.9% for 60 month. Is there truly 0% and if so, for what term of the loan? What is the interest on a 60 month finance?

philliplc

Good point on trying to make an extended warranty part of the deal, especially if you can get the Kia 10yr/100k bumper to bumper extended warranty for a minimal or reduced price (dealers typically try to sell it for $950 or more when bought with a new Sedona). The miles are getting close to the minimum required interval for an oil change, so I'd also make the dealer include that if he hasn't already done so, and be sure to get and keep documentation (receipt) for it.

jster381

Kia is offering the 0% apr for 36 months or less at participating dealers. We have found that a lot of our local dealerships do not know about this special because they say, "they don't get any 36 month loans". It might be worth looking in to. Good luck!

arjay1

I notice that Edmunds list's the Kia interest rate as 4.9% for 60 months. I called 2 local dealers in St. Louis and they say the 60 month rate is 5.9%. I wonder if Edmunds is out of date or does the interest rate changed by region?

sritrovato

to arjay1
I don't know how often Edmunds researches and changes rate listings, but Kia's web site clearly shows 0 for up to 36 mos and 4.9 for 37-60 mos. My local guy keeps trying to get me back in to "sweeten" the deal a bit and I'm pretty sure it's because the rates were higher last month when I was there(though 4.9 was still where they topped off). Ask them to show you Kia's current "chart" of rates or check the web. The rates can't change by region if the national web promos are posted. The only way that's possible is if they are trying to run financing through someone other than Kia or if someone's credit wasn't sufficient to qualify for top tier rates.

jhan759

Seems like I've gotten the rattle down to a minimum/non issue. After driving up to the dealer today after the electrical tape job the other night, I did notice to rattle to be much less. When I made a stop on my way home I decide to try hokum's idea and "change the system". That has REALLY seemed to make a difference (smart guy you are hokum!) Will keep you all up dated.
When we shopped and bought our Kia (2 weeks ago now) several dealers, including the one I bought from stated that Kia had changed their rate on the 60 month loan to 5.9%. When we were doing the financing I told the finance person that I could do better at my credit union at 5.74%. She got me out of the Kia finance and into a local bank for 5.5%. I believe I saw a post within the past two weeks where someone had written they had a dealer "honor" the 4.9 even though Kia had discontinued it. By the way, I saw an add on TV today for izuzu who are offering 0.0% for 5 years and a 10 year 120,000 PT warranty, wow!
I plan on doing regular oil AND filter changes every 3 to 5 thousand miles, just as I have always done depending on driving conditions and time of year. Do people really change their oil and not their filter???

jhan759

The link below:

http://kia.com/clearance/index.shtml

click on the details on the Sedona and it is stated that 5.9 is the rate on a 60 month loan

hoyahenry

I think much has changed in the past ten years with engines, filters and oil. And, yes, there is a whole forum dedicated to this issue a few clicks away.

Nevertheless, I think it's important for the Sedona to remember that the owner's manual is indicating the minimum service level to maintain warranty coverage.

I just used the JD Power coupon to have the oil changed at 2000 miles, and I will probably do it every 5K miles or 6 months, whichever comes first.

julis1

My husband and I have been avidly reading the postings here. We were (are?) considering a 2002 Sedona. After reading of the discounts the different dealers had given we set out to make our deal. I'm sorry to say that we tried three dealers within 60 miles and they will hardly budge from MSRP. We were hoping to get in on the 0%, but now it looks like that will not be. Our experience with all the dealers ( we did look at Odyssey, too) has left a very bad taste in my mouth. We live in the Midwest and ALL the salesmen have the same arrogant attitude!

sritrovato

Gosh every time I look at the site, the rates have changed! But to julis1 don't give up if you like the Sedona. Without any work I had quotes of $900 under MSRP on the LX and $1400 under on the EX. If I get into serious talks, I'm assured that those numbers will get better. Find some one else to talk to at those dealerships!

bluedevils

There are plenty of areas in the midwest where the market price is well below ($500-1,500) MSRP. I talked with Crown Kia near Columbus, OH. They were friendly and were willing to sell me a Sedona for $1,000 or more off MSRP about 2 weeks ago.

I was very pleased, as was a friend of mine who did his own shopping, with the folks at Keller Kia in Grand Rapids, Mich. They, too, were willing to go $1,000 or so off MSRP on a loaded Sedona EX.

I would suggest contacting a dealer who is a little further away to see what they can do for you. Don't let a bad dealer experience (or three) prevent you from buying the vehicle you want.

bluedevils

I think I'm doing everything right, but I cannot make warm air come out of the 4 rear vents.

With the Rear Heater button OFF, the vents will blow air. But the air is cold (not sure if it's just outside air - 30 degrees Fahrenheit in Detroit today - or air-conditioned). When I press the Rear Heater button, the air flow stops completely.

Not only does this seem like a problem, but it seems to be a different problem than other folks have been experiencing. I thought most of the problems with the rear HVAC unit were that the amount of heat was too strong and impossible to modulate.

philliplc

For whatever it's worth as information - in today's Portland, OR paper one dealer has a new loaded EX at $20,995 ($3000 under MSRP). Another is at $21866 with the 0.0%/36 months advertised. Another has 10 Sedonas in stock. Definite local glut here.

philliplc

That's the way mine works - 4 upper vents blow outside air when the fan is on - or AC, but do nothing with the rear heat on. I assume none of the rear vents are connected to the front heat flow, and the rear floor heater has its own heating element right by the vent. A compromise to keep the cost down, no doubt.

hoyahenry

I've been meaning to get to the bottom of this in my van, but I think I now know what is happening.

Where do you put the air flow control when you want heat up front? - usually on the feet. Same in the back, when you engage the rear heater button a damper activates to stop blowing air from the upper vents and redirects the output to the vent or vents located near the wheel well(s) in the back. This makes some sense, because it will work faster to allow the heat to radiate up naturally, rather than trying to push the warm air down into the compartment.

If I had to guess - in other words, this is all pure unsubstantiated SPECULATION for now except for some notes at the end - the rear system is a simple recirculated air system. When the rear heat button is not depressed, cool air from the floor is pulled in through the wheel vents and directed over the top of the passengers.

When the rear heat button is engaged, the system is reversed and the soon-to-be warm air at the top of the cabin is pulled into the top vents, pushed across the rear electric heater coil, and sent back into the cabin through the wheel vents located near the floor.

So, in the summer time, the front air conditioner is going to do most of the work. The rear air system will help people feel cooler by mixing the air, providing evaporation effect and pulling the sinking cold air off of the floor and up over the top to sink back into the cabin.

Is this system ideal? No. However, I do think it's well engineered and obviously better than nothing. Now if only the owner's manual provided a better description of how the system worked.

Now to go out to the van and prove this. Here's what I do know:

1) Using the rear heat button works to quickly heat up the van on cold mornings. Air is blowing somewhere, but not through the upper vents. I thought it was going to the rear upper vents because I could hear it back there, but couldn't reach that far while driving to check.

2) My experience is that when the rear heater is off, cold air blows no matter where the front temperature dial is set.

gregoriusm

1) Has anyone actually substantiated that there is an electronic coil for the rear heat in addition to the heat provided by the engine?

It was my understanding that the rear heat controls and fan were merely boosting the flow of the heated air produced by the engine/heater coil arrangement.

2) It seems quite logical to me that the heat would only be sent out of the lower vents and the cool air out of the upper vents. Why would anyone want it any different? - Greg

tbragg3

Hello everyone, and thanks for the info. After reading your posts I looked into and bought a 2002 Kia Sedona. We love it. We got it on Monday 2/18/02 and we got 60 month 0% interest for the whole term! We did pay sticker price 21,885 for an EX with spoiler and Homelink. We got it at Ricart in Columbus , OH. We tried to deal with a local guy (Newark - 30 miles east) but he couldn't find one that wasn't completely loaded down. So, we just got in the car '96 Windstar, and went up there. He had six or seven on the lot. We got the Misty Blue.

hoyahenry

Yes, the two vents in the passenger side rear saddlebag (wheel well) are the exhaust ports for heater mode. The intake is from the rear passenger side cargo area. This is where the coldest air will be - not quite as efficient as I thought, but much less mechanics are involved which is good in itself. For cold weather operation, I would argue the air handling is engineered correctly.

Heat was not available instantaneously on a cold start. That makes me wonder what the heat source is. If it is an electric coil, I would have expected heat sooner. Regardless, I would never leave the rear heat switch in the on position without air moving through the system (fan position 0).

The front temp control has no effect on the rear heater - or if it does, it takes longer than I was willing to wait for the heat to dissipate when the temp control is moved to full cold.

Until the weather warms a bit more I won't know for certain, but my expectation is that there is no connection between the front and rear air systems and that the cooling part of the rear system is as discussed in the previous post. The detail in the owner's manual is brutal in its sparseness and incorrectly indicates that the rear heater button must be engaged to use the system at all. To be clear, one only need engage it if heat is required. Cool air blows from the top and warm air blows from the bottom - basic HVAC design.

bluedevils

Did you really get 0% APR for 60 months? If so, that's great. That is different from the Kia web site info. There, it states 0% is available up to 36 months, 4.9% for 37-48 months, and 5.9% for 49-60 months. That was as of my last site visit (a week or more ago), but the site said the data was valid through 2/28/2002.

bluedevils

philliplc, hoyahenry, and gregoriusm, thanks for the info. Hoyahenry, some of your info was over my head; I guess I haven't spent enough time looking at the various parts to be familiar with everything you said! I need to crawl around the van a little more.

I'd like to summarize a couple points that appear to be true, culled from the previous, more explanatory posts. Please don't sue me for plagiarism, but do mention if any of these claims are untrue:

1. The 4 upper vents in the 2nd and 3rd row blow outside air when the fan is on - or AC - but they do nothing when the Rear Heater button is pressed. The lower vents near the rear wheel wells do blow warm air when the Rear Heater dash button is pressed.

2. Item #1 above is a logical, and likely an intentional, design. Sending warm air to the floor and cool air up above is standard HVAC design, as hoyahenry pointed out.

3. The front temperature control has no effect on the air blowing out of the rear vents. Since the rear HVAC unit lacks its own temperature control, the temperature of the air from the rear vents (upper or lower) cannot be controlled.

4. The owners manual does a terrible job of explaining the rear HVAC system and incorrectly states that the rear heater button must be engaged to use the system at all.

5. It appears that there is no connection between the front and rear air systems.

Thanks for the info, guys. I compiled this summary as much for my own benefit as for others'. I really would like to feel that I understand how the rear HVAC system works, and I'm still getting there. E.g., I didn't even realize that these "lower" rear vents existed!

A couple more thoughts:

It would be nice if the upper vents were able to blow warm air, just for added flexibility.

HVAC stands for "Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning." I heard the term for years before I finally realized what it stood for. Perhaps there are others out there in the same boat as I was.

hoyahenry

Thanks, Bluedevils. I thought about posting a more concise summary, but figured I'd be virtually hanged for posting again. I think you summed it all up well. As you said, it'll be most interesting if anyone else's experience differs.

jhan759

That's incredible! Who financed that deal?

jlngwr

OK, a few more days would've been nice, just got back from 10 days away on vacation. Wow, couldn't believe all that happened here in between, 200 posts, I read every one of them. We had to use a few rental cars while away, sure glad to have my Sedona again!

I was interested in the oil discussion that went on. My dealership was offering an extended warranty on the engine (to 250K miles) IF you used Quaker State (documented) each time on schedule (I do it every 3000 miles). Is there something inherently great about this brand? I had not seen it mentioned in the oil discussions before. Has anyone else heard of such a deal with dealerships? I'm wondering if it's for real (although I have it in writing). I asked about it before, but now we have so many more folks responding to this site. Thanks, all!

jondot

I see that the PBS Motorweek program is going to review the Sedona next week. I'm not sure when it will play elsewhere, but in San Antonio, TX it will be on next Sunday morning. Enjoy!

jhan759

Well, I thought I had the rattles licked, but after a trip this afternoon/evening with the van both empty (just me and my wife) and full (after we picked up the kids) the rattle persists, in fact it may be worse. The vibration that I felt a few days ago also appears worse, actually felt a vibration in the steering wheel. Has anyone else noticed a very low pitched thumping or knocking sound coming from the rear end? The Sedona is much "louder" than our 95 Windstar (w/ 90,000 miles). Seems like I feel every outside bump and road indentation. The only time it seems to ride "smooth" is on a newly paved road. Everywhere else seems bumpy, rattley, and knocky (if any of those are words).
Any thoughts, ideas, comments?

excelent3

I now have close to 4000 miles on my Sedona. Even though they are selling well here in Madison, WI I have yet to see another on the road. I have one question maybe some one else can address. I notice when I am cruising at 70-75mp on the Interstate that the van seems to either wander in both directions equally. I seem to have to "correct" the steering quite often. The steering wheel does not feel like it is pulling at all. I am wondering if my front end needs tweeking, camber may be off or something related.

Heating- I'm with the concensus. Rear heat only works with button depressed and there is no temperature control, it comes out nice and warm, but not hot as others have expressed.

Front Defroster in my unit is not hot at all, warm at best, whether on defrost only setting or on defrost/floor setting. I know it should be hotter. If I switch from floor heat or floor/vent heat to defrost, it comes out considerably cooler. This is with the heat setting dial at about 3 oclock. To get it to come out warm at all I have to set the heat setting at full bore. Any others have the above symptoms?

philliplc

I also just retired a 95 Windstar to a secondary vehicle (with 112k and no major problems!) The Sedona's suspension is definitely tuned tighter than the Windstar's. I also feel bumps, potholes, etc. a bit more in the Sedona - except when I have 600+ passenger or cargo pounds along - rides much smoother then. The tight suspension is actually ideal for me, since I am using it primarily for hauling - even with 700-800 pounds in back the rear doesn't drop that much. My Windstar's rear suspension nearly bottoms out with that much weight in the back.

I have not had rattle problems, but I did notice that the rear seats require some force to latch properly. When set into place, mine catch but don't fully latch, leaving some play in the latching mechanism that would potentially rattle at speed. When slammed into place, they fully lock and seem pretty solid.

tbragg3

Yes I did get 0% for 60 months. I was unaware of the 0% for 36 mos. through Kia. The dealership said that they were financing the deal, but, now I suspect that they were only financing the last three years. They claim to have the largest dealership(Ricart Ford originally) in the world. They sell every make and model in and around Columbus, OH, they even sell RV's at one site. They low balled my '96 windstar trade ($2500), which I was suspecting (we were offered $3,500 and 4.9% at the Newark, Chesrown Kia dealer and $500 off sticker on a loaded EX @ $23,505 that still meant only $4000 for our trade). It was paid for, so the financing alone actually saved me almost $2500 right off of the top. That then means I got $5000 in effect for our old van.

stever

Both "Kia" and "Sedona" appear as correct when I use the spell check here. Let me know if you are still having problems (maybe the problem is others not spell checking?). Thanks,

Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

bluedevils

My limited experience has been that the front HVAC system is not very hot, no matter where the air is coming out (floor, upper vents, defroster, etc.). After 20 minutes or so, even a slow-to-warm system should be putting out HOT air at the hottest temp setting. This is not a big deal, but it is a little disappointing and there's really no excuse for a non-hot heater in a modern automobile.

bluedevils

I think it's safe to say there is nothing that makes Quaker State oil far and away the best oil on the market. If one brand was so superior, it would dominate the market in terms of share, and that's not really the case.

Over at the Maintenance & Repair forums, Quaker State seems to have a good reputation. However, it's hard to tell if this is from long-ago experience or more recent experience. Both the petrol-based "regular" oil and the synthetic are well regarded. The synthetic is seen as a true synthetic, vs. many other "synthetics" that actually start with petroleum-based base stocks.

I doubt that Quaker State is somehow a better fit for the Sedona's engine than other oils. The more likely explanation is that your dealer or Kia has some sort of an arrangement with Quaker State to promote and/or use its products. Does anyone know what kind of oil the Kia service departments use?

bluedevils

No disrespect intended, but have you check the tire pressure (with the tires COLD)? Our Sedona was delivered with 45psi in all 4 tires. This is way too much. Too-high tire pressure could explain the excessively firm ride, although your problem could still be something else.

Off the top of my head I don't remember the recommended tire pressure, but I think it's somewhere in the mid-30s.

yolo

Hi all, I just found this site and wanted to share my experience. We bought a Sedona EX with leather, two tone, Home Link, spoiler, abs and sunroof (basically every option that Kia offers) on Feb 14,2002 . The sticker price was $24,100 plus a $1,700 mark up that the dealer wrote on. I told the salesman that I didn't want to spend time going back and forth for hours and to give me the best price that they can and we have a deal. To my surprise, the offer they came out with was $1,000 off the actual sticker price of $24,100 which brought the price down to $23,100 plus tax, title and license. I shook his hand and said we have a deal. I financed with 0% interest for 36 mos. I have bought countless new vehicles in the past and none of the transactions have gone smoother or quicker than this. Needles to say, I was extremely happy at what I thought was a fair price. I could have gotten maybe another $500 off but I was so impressed by this experience that I didn't want to deal with the back and forth that I am used to.

The Sedona is replacing a 97 Dodge Grand Caravan ES that was fully loaded too and it stickered at $33,000 back in 97. I bought the Sedona for my wife and it has around 550 miles on it now and all has been perfect so far. The Sedona caught our attention at the Los Angeles Auto Show a couple of months ago. We thouroughly examined it there and to put it mildly, fell in love with it. I went online to get as much info as possible and found many great reviews. The only thing lacking at the time was a crash rating. Having a 2, 3 and 4 year old, we thought it was important to wait and see what the ratings would be. On the 13th of Feb., I went online to see if the Sedona has been rated and I saw that it received quad five stars. The following day we went to purchase the van.

Compared to the Grand Caravn with a 3.8L, the Sedona felt more powerful and quite a bit smoother. I like the 5 speed auto with OD button and I especially like the fact that the max torques is lower in the rpm range than on any other van. This will be very useful when towing our jet skis. Being able to turn off overdrive on long steep grades when towing is a plus as is the standard equiped tranny oil cooler.

The Sedona drives beautifully and the brakes are excellent. I'm hoping the brakes will still perform well when towing. Everything feels tight and solid and I actually like the shift lever placement. All the controls are laid out perfect and I like the large knobs for the HVAC system. The seats are very comfortable an feel solid. The rear seat split is also welcome because it can be taking out individually, which I couldn't do on the Caravan. The fit and finish throughout the Sedona is exceptional. Reveals and joints line up perfect both inside and out. There are screw caps everywhere which I am not used to seeing. Usually screw heads are exposed on other vehicles that I have owned. This is no big deal but it just shows the attention to detail.

I will keep checking this board and posting as the miles pile up.

marcolius

I agree; I really like the shift lever placement. Thought it was odd at first.

yolo

I forgot to mention that combined mileage so far has been 24 mpg.

wholigan

Did you trade the Caravan? Just wondering:

What you got for it?
How many miles?
Any engine/tranny issues?
What was the difference between your negotiated price paid and trade-in?

More curiosity than anything else... I am looking at DC, Ody, Sedona, and Durango (wife insists).

Thanks!

Gill

yolo

The Caravan was a 5 year lease that still has a few months left. Looking at other vehicles before we saw the Sedona, I would have had to come up with an extra $5,500 to get out of the lease and it would have been tacked onto the price of the new car. I called my lease co and they said that the payoff is correct for a dealer trade and they just want to give wholesale price. I got discouraged and just thought to keep the Caravan until the lease is over. I called the lease co back and they said that if I pay the remainder of the payments, I could turn it in early. The remainder of the payments is around $1,600. Still better then the $5,500 from a couple of dealers. Since I was getting the 0% interest rate on the Sedona, I figured it would make up for quite a bit of that $1,600 plus my wife wanted the Sedona really bad. I could also essentially keep the Caravn since I pay for it anyway but it would have to be insured which adds cost. I decided to pay the $1,600 and take it back early. Without the 0% interest rate though, I don't think I would have went for it.

The reliability of the Caravan has been great. It only has 56K miles on it. The check engine light came on at 49,000 due to a purge solenoid tripping it but it doesn't impede driveability and I didn't want to spend the money to have to fix it because it's leased and almost up. I bet it would have been covered under warranty because emmisions items are 50K miles in California (Chrysler had the 3 year/36K mile factory warranty), but I never had the chance to take it in and then it went out of warranty. I just noticed the other day that the rear right shock is leaking fluid. Other than that, the Caravan has been fine. Where it and others fall short IMO is price. I was not about to pay $34,000 + fees for a comparably equipped van when I could pay $23,100 with all the bells and whistles that are usefull and come on the Sedona EX. My wife also wanted a smaller van compared to the Grand Caravan. I could definitely afford the others but my opinion was why when we get all the features we were looking for at a savings of $8000 - $10,000 in a van that first grabbed our attention before even knowing the price. The lower price was just an added bonus.
My buddy bought his wife a new Chrysler Town & Country several months ago for $10,000 more and when she came over to look at the Sedona and drive it, she said she would have rather gotten the Sedona too but she was unaware of it. The turn off for the T&C for us was the velour type porous leather. With a 2, 3 and a 4 year old, it seemed like it would stain more than cloth.
I have no experience with the Ody and never considered it because it's ugly and you can't tow with it unless some factory installed over priced options are added first.
I have a 98 Dodge Ram with the 5.2 V-8 that has been a great truck with 110K miles on it so far. The Durango used to have the same engine and tranny but I believe they come with the new 4.7 now and I have no experience with it. The complaints for my Ram are that the stock brakes wear extremely fast. In my case at 10K miles. I got a tip to use Bendix Fleet Pads and those yield 50K to 60K before needing to be replaced. The Durango/Dakota/Ram1500 are a crap shoot. Some like mine are great but I know others that have tranny problems. I'm personally not into SUVs so the Sedona suited us perfectly. It's also nice to have a unique vehicle and one that you don't see hundreds of on the street. That might change in the years to come if the Sedona truly ends up being as good in the long haul as it is now?

jster381

I have yet to buy a Sedona (any day now?) but I was wondering...is it me or have there been quite a few minor complaints recently on this board? Are there any Sedona owners who are concerned with their purchase (as far as quality)? Any regrets? I could probably "live with" the noise/rattle problems that have been mentioned, but I would expect that a brand new car would have heaters/defrosters that work correctly.

newvan2

Please help me and check your sliding doors. Our passenger side slider does not latch properly. When we are closing the door it will hit the strike plate and then close. I do believe that this should latch smoothly into place and close. It sounds like it hits the plate and bounces into the latched position. Our driver side slides latches and closes smoothly.
Please let me know if 1) I am clearly explaining the situation. 2) If this is happening on another Sedona. somewhere 3)Anyone has suggestions on what the problem is.
DEALER: I am embarrassed for the dealer to document in this forum what they have said is or is not the problem.

frostbyte1

we don't want to pay any more for the vehicle than others have paid. Makes sense to us. We live in Fredericksburg, VA. Is there anyone out there in Sedona land who has purchased a Sedona within the last few months from the Richmond/DC area of the country. If so, would you be willing to share with us what model/options you chose and the price you paid for the vehicle? I have tried www.carmax.com to see if I could obtain this information and that site doesn't even carry information on Kia vehicles. That seems odd to me. I have spent hours and hours, it seems like, reading almost all of the postings and I am also concerned about the HVAC problems. Thanks again to anyone who would share their purchase price with us.

philliplc

There have been numerous comments on the HVAC system, but I don't recall anyone having an actual malfunction. Comments have concerned some dissatisfaction with the design of the rear heating system (and figuring out how it works) and/or lower than normally expected front heat output. I personally like the rear system now that I'm used to it, and have not had a problem with heat output in the front.

Jster381, I love my (currently problem-free) LX. No rattles, no steering problems, sliding doors work fine. My only regret is that it's not a loaded EX. The LX has everything I need, but If I'd known that the market would be softening so quickly, I certainly would have held out for a loaded one. At this point, particularly with the 0.0% financing, it doesn't make much sense to settle for less (unless you hate leather). The extras (leather, sunroof, ABS, etc.) are so comparatively inexpensive right now that I think the extra price difference between loaded and anything less will always be there in resale (unlike loaded Grand Caravans - ouch!)

Given the recent minor complaints, it would certainly make sense to take a long test drive and listen for rattles, take some extended time working the sliding doors to check for problems, etc. with a specific vehicle you're looking at before purchase.

hoyahenry

1) Yolo, excellent discussion on cost to value ratio. It is what it is, and it's great to me.

2) As for problems, I do not see where any of the problems posted here are anywhere near service-affecting. That's not an attempt to downplay any of them, but is rather my perspective. I would like to get some experience with the front defroster issue, but "VA winter" is an oxymoron (until Wednesday?).

3) Frostbyte1, bought an EX in Leesburg on 12/31 fully loaded (except spoiler) for almost $1200 under MSRP, which appears to be a mostly average deal. Hope that helps - see also posts ~664-5.

4) Heat and fuel economy. I am suspicious that the fuel mixture is deliberately rich, which is one of the reasons for less heights on the mpg scale. One reason to do this is to keep engine temperature down as the "extra" fuel acts as a coolant. This could also be another reason for the heater not providing the warmest air. Just a theory.