Not sure but suspect the rattle is from the 4 latches at the end of the horizontal bars that latch the roof rack whiling riding through the bumps. Thumb the horizontal bars and will hear the vibrating rattles. Not sure how to remove the bars from the roof rack, lazy to browse the manual without my reading glass. (*=*)! May be some other rattle sources, too.
Right! hope your daughter won't pay another $4000 cash to fix your '99 Ody's transmission problem after the 36k miles warranty is over. The consumer report had rated the Ody "average" reliability.
Who needs another old school SOHC engine design like Ody, I know what a Honda SOHC engine is, it is great but not excellent, it is reliable, noisy and your LX Ody is as bland as a cheese pizza, low rent interior with sucker's price, I love my DOHC Sedona with Korean leather seats, are you jealous, NOW? Ha! Ha!
I'M not going to continue down your road Carelton, I know a loser when I smell one. This is to good of a board to [non-permissible content removed] for tat. Most of us can clearly see what your mission is. You are really full of it, paying "Cash" for two new vehicles? Only an idiot would do that. I bet your family would be very proud of your posts, you're obviously a very insecure person. How would you act face to face in front of us ? Easy to stick your chest out behind a computer isn't it? Leave it alone now. From now on, you are on my ignore feature, you don't deserve a response. Find another home, maybe you could put running water in your '78 Impala, you already have heat I assume???? LOL.
Whenever I read comments such as almost everything that Carleton1 says on this board, I wonder 'what is that person's goal?' Does this person enjoy annoying other people so much that it's worth his/her time to make such stupid, inflammatory posts? I guess the answer is 'yes' because the posts just keep coming. This is a very sad existence for a human being. Personally, I cannot imagine ever going to a discussion board and making the types of stupid comments that so many basher-style posters make on a daily basis. To me, there is no joy in that.
The only other reasons I can think of are that carleton enjoys getting people to admit they made a bad choice and/or should have bought the vehicle that carleton bought or is recommending. Again, these are not valid reasons for most human beings to spend their time doing what carleton is doing.
Would I go over to the Odyssey board and state that I think the van’s interior is a little "plain vanilla" or that reliability is not up to normal Honda standards? Yes, I might do that because those would be legitimate comments and they might actually help a prospective Odyssey buyer. Would I make the same sort of criticisms here or on other boards of vehicles I own? Yes, I would. And I have.
Carleton1, if you want to come here and say that the Sedona has 45 fewer horsepower than the Odyssey, Sedona's third-row seat does not fold out of sight like the Odyssey's, Odyssey has more interior cargo room behind the 3rd seat, Sedona does not offer power sliding doors, or Sedona does not offer heated seats, please do. Those are all valid and relevant points. The Sedona is not the perfect minivan, and it is educational for people to see any vehicle's features, strengths, weaknesses, etc. But get rid of the garbage. Your past comments are annoying and if you don't stop posting this crap I will do everything I can to have you banned from this forum and, if necessary, the entire Edmund's community.
The Odyssey is a great minivan. That statement, and the statement that the Sedona is a very good minivan at an excellent price, are not mutually exclusive.
I'm suprised no one mentioned the fact that you have to wait around 6 months for the Honda dealer to give you the opportunity to pay over MSRP for the right to own a precious Oddity minivan.
As insulting as the term "soccer mom" is, it goes double for someone who has to drive around in a box on wheels. The Oddity may have some good design features, but it is one of the ugliest and most bland vehicles on the planet.
I removed my rear seats this morning as I had to haul some 4 X 8 sheets of plywood. They are a joy to remove and roll on the floor easily for storage. My annoying noise in my case was definitely from my rear seats. I hope you can resolve your "annoyant", they can be a pain, I for one like many, hate those little noises, they are bothersome.
Hey guy, why so defensive? Who pooped in your cereal? Relax. Get a dog. Enjoy life. Agree to disagree.
Seems to me that you have had a lot of practice at being defensive. Someone has spent a very long time badgering you, and continuously putting you down. That is the only explanation for the degree of insecurity that you have demonstrated with your....comments. In all honesty, I feel bad for you. Seriously, and I am not joking, you may want to seek professional help.
As for my purchase of a Sedona, I am completely satisfied. I could have had any minivan on the market, including a Honda. If I had it to do over again, my choice would be the same. And BTW, my brother, who HAD an Oddy, just bought a Sedona.
Obviously, you are satisfied with your purchases, and your entire vehicle situation. Wonderful. Great. Happy for ya!
Keep in mind, there are more imprtant things in life. I suggest you hug your wife, hug your daughter, and remember what REAL wealth is....and that, dear sir, has nothing to do with money, or an automobile.
Hi Guys, I am a Sienna owner. About seat rattle I have some experience , which may help some of you. I have captain chairs in second row. Once When I tumbled my rear and second row seats I saw Electric Tape wrapped onto the metal where the seats sit. I did not give much about it. But after reading some compalins about seat rattles in Sienna Problems forum, it struck me that the dealer has proactively taken care of the seat rattles ! You may try and see whether it helps in removing the seat rattle or no.
I don't want this, or any other Owners Club board in which I participate, to turn into a total joyfest where we ignore any issues, problems, or complaints with our vehicles. But I definitely do NOT want the stupid, negative, factless comments that we endure here from time to time.
People make those kinds of comments and they think you're being defensive when you attempt to respond to, or refute, the illogical with logic! This makes them look even dumber than their original dumb comments.
There is scripture/proverb that says "Ignorant people are fools" well this fool just doesn't know any better.
If he persists with ANY more comments I am with Bluedevils, we'll have him figureatively chopped, drawn and quartered.
In special forces we had other means to deal with sick individuals who take rabid pleasure in amusing themselves abusing others........it was not pretty.
The likes of you, is no better than a terrorist.
We can, and will hunt you down, and you will be exterminated from Edmunds Town Hall period.
Your time has come Mr. Carleton. Go ahead, make my day.
Mr. Carleton I do like what I see in this mirror of mine that's why I don't have to slam other peoples purchases, even if I don't agree with them. Personally, I truly hope that the Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth etc.have gotten all of their reliablility issues resolved. I think we all wish we could buy an American vehicle, crafted through and through with U.S.A. labor and products, and get the quality vehicle we pay for. I for one wouldn't mind paying more for a mini-van if that were the case.
My point is that you might want to check it up a bit partner. The TOUs on Edmunds do not allow personal attacks on other posters. I'm just mentioning it before you attract the unwanted attention of hosts.
Personal attack again. Seems like I have heard this before. What's you real motive? You're crony over on the MPV board misconstrues comments made and you guys won't let it rest. Conspiracy going on here? Don't you have anything better to do? I don't comment on your board, and I don't baby sit either. Wouldn't it be nice if we could all meet face to face sometime. I can assure you, things would be different now wouldn't they? EOM
Actually, if you're referring to the user called carleton, I don't even know if he's an MPV owner, but at any rate I know of no conspiracy, except maybe Bigfoot and UFOs, but that's off topic, lol. As to babysitting, etc, I have subscriptions to many different threads. I watch threads for other sedans than those pertaining to my Volvo, as well as some maintenance threads and classic car threads, although I don't own any classic cars, yet. You never know when I may be in the market. I also watch some SUV threads, even though I'm not planning on buying an SUV soon, the Tribute looks good if I go that way some time in the near future... so I watch that to see what experiences people have. Watching these threads keeps me informed so that I may help friends and family, and myself in making decisions.
Now, addressing your openly unkind remarks towards my last post... what have I posted lately that has been anything deserving of such treatment? The last time I posted here, I was giving out advise to a potential Kia buyer who was going to pick up their new van. My advise for you to possibly calm down was in your best interest. I'd hate to see an active member like yourself to be receiving emails from edmunds staff. /javadoc
Can't believe it's come to this, but this topic's going to have to go on ice for awhile to allow for some peaceful meditation.
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MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
Is it safe now? Hopefully this topic can return to civil discussions about the Kia Sedona... we'll be watching
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I had also heard a rattle coming from the rear seats. For me, the rattle was coming from just the seat back, not the entire seat.
I fixed the problem, and would like to share my remedy. You have also seen excellent suggestions from others, please just add this to the "pot".
This worked for me, it should work for you as well.
This explanation may contain way too much information, but as an engineer (mechanical and petroleum), it is my nature.
Essentially, I changed the "system". Let me explain; a rattle is heard when the "system" oscillates at its natural frequency, which is defined as the frequency at which the maginitude of the oscillations increase exponentially. In order to change the natural frequency, and eliminate the rattle, you must change the "system" (specifically, the system mass).
This is what I did: I used that strap, which is intended to be used when the rear seats are double folded, to change the mass of the "system". I attached one end of the strap to the vertical bar that is attached to the bottom of the head rest, and then attached the other end of the strap to the frame under the seat. I then put some tension on the strap.
Since the natural frequency is dependent on the mass of the "system", if you change the systems mass, you change its natural frequency. By affixing the seat back to the seat bottom with the strap, the "system" changes from just the seat back, to the entire seat; having different mass. Therefore, the natural frequency changed (actually by a factor of the (square root of (1/(the change in system mass))), and the rattle was eliminated.
The only problem with this is if rear seat passengers wish to decline the seat back. When the seat back is lowered toward the rear, the strap tension is eliminated, and the "system" (and its mass) changes back to the original, and the rattle may come back (depending on weight of passenger; see below). Additionally, the strap tension makes it impossible to raise the seat back toward the front of the vehicle. You would have to release the strap if the passenger wishes to move the seat back forward.
But really, how often do rear passengers wish to move the seat back and recline? Furthermore, with a rear seat passenger leaning against the seat back, the system mass changes anyway.....no rattle.
I apologize for my longwinded explanation. As I said earlier, it is my nature (and my job).
Depending on strap tension, you may actually change the system mass to that of the entire van! Since the seat bottom is latched into the floorboard, THAT system is the seat bottom and the entire van. When you add the seat back "system" to the seat bottom "system"....which is within the van "system"....ok, you get the point.
Now it is possible to see the dramatic effect on rattle elimination; 30# seat back to 4700# van. HUGE system change.
OK, I'm done now. Anyone else sick of the word "system"???
Hi, First of all thanks to all of the folks that have provided posts concerning their experience so far with the Kia Sedona. After reviewing as much research as possible on the internet my wife and I have decided to purchase a new Sedona EX. My question how is this deal ? Dealer is offering a almost fully loaded EX minus the rear spoiler for $22,100 plus 0% interest for 36 months. He initially stating that he would go "under invoice" but I noticed a $413 "marketing allowance" added to the costs. The MSRP is $23,960. So what do you folks think about this deal ??? Thanks again for all the info on this board.
Sorry, Not sure how to reply to your message so Im submitting a new one. Im in the Northeast ( near Boston ) there's a few dealers here. This one is only 6 miles from my house. Just sopke to another dealer and of course they wont quote over the phone. I think the offer is good but my wife is tough, so I may "let her drive "...
I live in New Jersey and I've had a dealer offer $22,400 for a fully loaded (all 6 options) EX. I also had another dealer offer $21,100 for an EX with ABS, leather, homelink, and two-tone. That was an even better "value" but I would like to get a sunroof also. I have not bought one yet but am getting very close.
Jster, Sounds like an excellent deal. I called the dealer and asked to put a "hold" on the van I tested ( its actually in the showroom ). I was really impressed with how nice it rides. We've been looking to buy an Odyssey but all the dealers have a take it or leave it attitude. Plus the wait is on to get one... so I'm glad we "discovered" the Sedona. Lots of good stuff for 22k. Just tell me where to sign. Hope to be reporting soon on our new EX....
Anything around $22,500 or less for a fully loaded sounds like a great price compared with what others have been getting. Even full MSRP is a great value, in my opinion. It sounds like the dealers are starting to discount Sedona more than in the past few months.
We bought our Sedona EX with everything except rear spoiler (MSRP $23,960) last week for $22,930. I was very comfortable with this price but could have done about $500 better from another dealer that emailed me an offer after we signed a buyers order with our local dealer.
Just think about what you are getting for $22,000 or so: a great powertrain-- peppy 3.5L DOHC, 24 valve engine, 5-speed automatic (differentiates Sedona in the minivan segment), ABS, moonroof, great stereo, power front seats, leather, etc. Compare that with what you get from other brands at the same price point and there's really no comparison.
The only drawbacks I see are potential quality issues (so far, so good from what you hear on this board) and a few key features that are missing (power sliding doors, rear-seat entertainment system, heated front seats, traction control or all-wheel drive option, etc.). However, the lack of these relatively upscale options should not be an issue for most minivan shoppers.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I took the van to work today with the seats out because I needed the room and to check for the rattle. Sure enough, no rattle! I just finished putting electrical tape on the seat attachment floor bars (thanks jelhz43n), we'll see how that works. If not, maybe I'll change the system! (great post hokum). Also filled her up tonight and probably got around 16mpg in mostly commuter, stop and go driving, no real highway spins. And by the way, much thanks to kristie h for quelling the banter that needed to be taken outside this forum. Let's hope everyone will behave so that we can have some meaningful asynchronous chat about our new cars' pluses and minuses.
I just had a very bad experience from a local dealer tonight. First he lied to me about what EX models he had in stock. Yesterday he had 4 "fully loaded" models and today when I show up there are none to be found. Then he plays me for a fool by showing me some paperwork and telling me that Kia is NOT offering 0% apr financing incentives, when I know better. He was very unprofessional and wanted to pressure me into buying a van he had on the lot, even though I told him what was important to me (ABS...oh you don't really need them if you know how to drive?). I would warn any potential Sedona shoppers in the Philadelphia market to beware Value Kia. I'll keep looking.
jster381, that's a very unfortunate experience. It's hard to believe how often salespeople resort to ignoring the customers' wants, deception, bait-and-switch, and flat-out lies. You should post your experience in the Inconsiderate Salespeople topic (haven't visited there in a while but I'm guessing the topic is still active).
Good luck finding a dealer that will treat you with respect and sell you a vehicle that meets your requirements. You'll find one.
I am looking for EX with ABS as only option.They seems to be impossible to find, all vans I found are loaded with extra stuff I don't need. Local dealer told me he can get one with leather and ABS,because that how they come from factory and it is impossible to get one just with ABS.He quoted me the price 23000 for it.I think its too much. Also,can anyone recommend dealer in NY\NJ area?
I haven't heard what the deal is with this-- does Kia support ordering a vehicle a specific way or not? Does anybody know?
I'm guessing that there is not a single Sedona van in the USA that is equipped with ABS as the only optional item. They aren't building them that way because a) they wanted to force people to buy other "optional" equipment such as moonroof, leather, etc. or b) they legitimately did not expect people to want a van equipped that way. It's probably 90% reason "a" and 10% reason "b."
This is very common practice among most auto manufacturers. If you have very specific requirements and those requirements are different from most other customers, then at best you will have to wait several weeks for a van to be built to your exact specifications.
I am looking to buy an EX model with leather, ABS, and moonroof. Can take or leave the other options. Live in WV, but willing to travel to Eastern Ohio/Colombus/Pittsburg area to buy if the price is right.
Anyone recommend a good dealer and willing to disclose what they paid. My local dealer said MSRP was it and refused to negotiate. I plan to call him back next week and see if he has changed his mind.
Looking for your thoughts. We got a great deal. EX, leather, two tone, sunroof, home link, free oil changes 1 year, $21,800. The issues, the car had 280 miles when we picked it up, and a busted drivers arm rest, the "rattle in the back" and a the sliding passenger door seems to NOT be meeting the latch. There is an apparent "knock" before the door closes like it is tapping the latch and then going into place. The dealer needed some coercing and finally replaced the arm rest. GREAT They put in a KIA sound proofing kit in the back door to stop the rattle? Any one hear of this solution? The sliding door they say is no problem, and we get the ole' could not duplicate. Well, they greased the door, blamed it on the weather seal, it needs to get adjusted. It still knocks, and dealer says they don't want to do anything more for fear of adjusting, it and then allowing in water, maybe not getting a good seal. So, any one hear of this???? It is driving my wife nuts, she wants to sell it, the door is definitely wrong, but does this matter, will it get worse, will it create damages in the long run. Is the dealer avoiding a bigger issue?? Now with 650 miles.... we may sell the Sedona. Please help. thank you
When I was shopping I did notice a sliding door that didn't close right on one EX that I looked at. I think your best option is to be persistent with the dealer about taking care of the problem one way or another. Chances are that, despite the cosmetic problems, the van is still fine mechanically, and it will still be a good van long-term for you. A new vehicle takes its initial hit in depreciation as soon as you sign for it, and if you try to sell it yourself at this point it likely would be tough to get near what you paid for it. This is especially true in this case because the initial price of the vehicle has the 100k powertrain warranty figured in, and that is not transferable.
I was disappointed in a few initial issues with my LX (rear brake shoes contaminated by factory grease - dealer replaced, clicking shift interlock brake solenoid - fixed myself with a thick piece of foam between the brake pedal and the solenoid button). Once these issues were worked out, I have grown to like the van more and more every time I drive it.
2. From what you have told us, selling this van would be premature at this point. As philliplc said, be persistent with the dealer, or visit another dealer, until the door problem is resolved. Whether you bought new or used, the van is under warranty. Is it really worth taking a $2-4k hit to be rid of this vehicle and this door? Not to me.
3. Did your transaction include a trade-in? $21,800 sounds like a very good price, but not a "too good to be true" price.
I enjoyed speaking with Randy Landrum of Crown Kia in the Columbus area (specifically, Dublin) a couple weeks ago. He was honest and friendly. Once I conveyed that I was a serious buyer, was fairly well-educated about the Sedona and the relatively high demand for it, and was targeting a price of $1,000 off MSRP, he said he had no problems selling me a Sedona for that price and that he could probably do better than that-- whatever it took to earn my business, and he would make it worth my while to make the long drive to his dealership (I'm in the Detroit area).
We did not end up buying from Crown Kia because the local dealer agreed to $1,000 off MSRP (Sedona EX with everything but rear spoiler, MSRP $23,930; we paid $22,930), but I recommend that you give Crown a call. 614.761.2360.
Your local dealer will start dropping prices soon, once he realizes that the market for the Sedona is not bearing full MSRP.
I was also pleased with Keller Kia in Grand Rapids, Mich. Very professional attitude from the sales folks I spoke with. A friend also was treated very well at Keller Kia. But that's a much longer drive for you. 800.452.0758
Check out the lemon law for your state. (One of my previous posts) Usually when presented the facts (and 5x attempt to fix most states) dealers fix it rather than have to take it back and refund $. Sounds like you got a bad one...too bad, most folks posting have had only minor gripes, well documented in postings here as common to the model.
I like the "wrap tape around the bottom" fix the back seat rattle. Sounds like tolerances weren't real close on the bottom latch/roller bar set up.
RE the MSRP discussion, your dealer certainly can't force you to buy...look for someone you are comfortable with. If you really want a particular car on the lot, talk directly to the sales manager. (Salesman gets the commission anyway). But, if he lies to you to sell you a car, guess how dealing with his service department will be?
First off, the rattle persists! I didn't drive the van today but my wife did and she says the rattle is still there (and it bugs me a lot more than it bugs her, so it is definitely still there!) I guess the tape didn't work, or I need more tape! It will obviously be my project for the weekend. I am making a trip to the dealer on sat. to pick up mud flaps and hood deflector so I'll bend their ear too (no pun intended). Darenio, when I shopped the Wash. DC area for an EX w/ ABS I was told by 5 different dealers that the only way to get ABS was to also get leather, although I never looked into ordering a car directly form the factory. Newvan2, you definitely got a great deal at 21,800 for the van you described. It also sounds like you got a good deal from a cruddy dealer! I agree w/ philliplc, lean on these guys and don't let up. Remember, you bought a new van from a dealer who needs to bend over backwards to make you, his customer, sing! maybe you need to print off a couple of pages of this forum to sow him how fast word travels on the information superhighway (haven't heard that term in a while). Maybe you can tell us all where you are located and the dealer's name so we can beware (if we truly need to be) Good Luck.
To jster381 (message 882) re Value Kia: If you get the chance, try Faulkner in West Chester (Rte #3). Ask for Tom. They don't have a lot of inventory. When I was there they had 2 LXs and 2 EXs. They were really great though and would probably find you what you're looking for if they didn't have it. I haven't purchased yet, but they are going to be my dealer if the Sedona wins out. BTW, interest rates are posted on the Kia website under specials, so there is no question there, but I had the same issue of dealers "not knowing" with a Mazda dealer and had to phone MazdaUSA to confirm. Also, I believe that an Allentown Kia dealer has posted a 1% over invoice deal on Sedonas. That may merit double checking if for no other purpose than to take the info to someone more local. Good luck! sritrovato
Own the Sedona for 11 days now, I did live with the constant rattles from the back seat for 10 days, after the third seat belt buckets were pulled from the back of the rear seat to the front, the rattles disappeared. In my case it sounds like the rear seat belt buckets were tapping against the bottom of the seat making all these rattles. Occasionally went over some big bumps, heard a couple of rattles from the roof rack, otherwise it is silent and solid.
I think somebody mentioned on this thread using synthetic blend oil a while back. I used synthetic blend (Valvoline Durablend or Castrol Syntec Blend) for a couple years until I started following the oil-related topics in the Maintenance & Repair area of Edmund's Town Hall.
The consensus is basically this: synthetic blend contains a very small percentage of synthetic oil, and the price difference vs. regular oil basically makes the blends a ripoff.
Blending your own, by combining 1 quart full synthetic with 3 or 4 quarts of regular petroleum-based oil, is a much better option. It's cheaper and probably is a better protectant than the off-the-shelf blends. Most folks recommend sticking with the same brand of synthetic and petrol-based oil, when mixing yourself. E.g. if you want to use Mobil 1 synthetic, don't mix it with anything other than Mobil's petrol-based oil. This may be an unnecessary precaution, but the idea is that the additive packages in different brands of oil have a greater chance of being incompatible or detrimental to one another than do the additives found in same-brand synthetic and petrol-based oils.
The owners manual recommends engine oil change at 7,500 miles (pretty long) and filter change every 15,000 miles (I've never heard of such a long filter interval!). That's the Normal schedule.
The Severe schedule, the definition of which probably covers the majority of the vehicles being driven, calls for 3,000 mile oil changes and 6,000 mile filter changes.
This is the first time I've ever heard any automotive authority (manufacturer, dealership, independent shop, web site, radio host, etc.) recommend a longer interval for the filter than for the actual oil. I will not be following this recommendation, as I am convinced from following the oil-related boards on Edmund's Town Hall that no oil filter performs well for 15,000 miles!
How often have you folks been changing the oil and filter? Has the dealer been performing your oil changes?
If I stick with petroleum-based oil, I will probably follow a 3000-4000 mile change interval for both oil and filter. If I switch to full synthetic, I may stretch that to 6000-8000 miles on the oil with an additional filter change halfway between the oil change.
The owners manual is very general on this subject and provides only the standard info on which viscosities are better for certain external air temperatures.
It seems that many engines tend to run better on certain viscosities. For example, it's generally agreed that the 3.2L V6 and 3.5L V6 in 1992-current Isuzu Troopers runs best on 5W30 oil, or possibly 10W30.
Today's engines are being designed for thinner and thinner engine oils. I plan to use either 5W30 or 10W30 in our new Sedona, unless someone here, or from Kia, from a Kia dealer, or from some other source can provide compelling thoughts on why a thicker oil is better with the Sedona's engine.
Why would anyone want to leave an oil filter in when they change the oil? All you're doing is leaving old, dirty oil in that shouldn't be there.
Everyone that I know changes the oil AND the filter at regular intervals. The most suggested intervals I've seens are 5000 kilometers, which is just over 3000 miles for you guys down south.
It is a small price to pay for engine protection.
Any mechanic worth his salt will tell you that preventative maintenance pays for itself in the long run! - Greg
It makes no sense to me that Kia recommends leaving the filter in twice as long as the oil. Frankly, I was shocked when I read that. I hope Kia doesn't create problems for itself... My thought is that many value-conscious consumers are buying the Sedona. You could also call these folks "penny-pinchers" or "cheap." They are more likely than other folks to spend less on maintenance, and one way to do that is by waiting longer between oil changes. People might follow the manufacturer-recommended Normal oil & filter change interval to the letter and still not be changing their oil and filter often enough.
Comments
May be some other rattle sources, too.
Who needs another old school SOHC engine design like Ody, I know what a Honda SOHC engine is, it is great but not excellent, it is reliable, noisy and your LX Ody is as bland as a cheese pizza, low rent interior with sucker's price, I love my DOHC Sedona with Korean leather seats, are you jealous, NOW? Ha! Ha!
The only other reasons I can think of are that carleton enjoys getting people to admit they made a bad choice and/or should have bought the vehicle that carleton bought or is recommending. Again, these are not valid reasons for most human beings to spend their time doing what carleton is doing.
Would I go over to the Odyssey board and state that I think the van’s interior is a little "plain vanilla" or that reliability is not up to normal Honda standards? Yes, I might do that because those would be legitimate comments and they might actually help a prospective Odyssey buyer. Would I make the same sort of criticisms here or on other boards of vehicles I own? Yes, I would. And I have.
Carleton1, if you want to come here and say that the Sedona has 45 fewer horsepower than the Odyssey, Sedona's third-row seat does not fold out of sight like the Odyssey's, Odyssey has more interior cargo room behind the 3rd seat, Sedona does not offer power sliding doors, or Sedona does not offer heated seats, please do. Those are all valid and relevant points. The Sedona is not the perfect minivan, and it is educational for people to see any vehicle's features, strengths, weaknesses, etc. But get rid of the garbage. Your past comments are annoying and if you don't stop posting this crap I will do everything I can to have you banned from this forum and, if necessary, the entire Edmund's community.
The Odyssey is a great minivan. That statement, and the statement that the Sedona is a very good minivan at an excellent price, are not mutually exclusive.
As insulting as the term "soccer mom" is, it goes double for someone who has to drive around in a box on wheels. The Oddity may have some good design features, but it is one of the ugliest and most bland vehicles on the planet.
Perhaps you are familiar with the topic "Honda Odyssey Problems"?
1660 posts and counting. How embarrassing for you.
Chris
Seems to me that you have had a lot of practice at being defensive. Someone has spent a very long time badgering you, and continuously putting you down. That is the only explanation for the degree of insecurity that you have demonstrated with your....comments. In all honesty, I feel bad for you. Seriously, and I am not joking, you may want to seek professional help.
As for my purchase of a Sedona, I am completely satisfied. I could have had any minivan on the market, including a Honda. If I had it to do over again, my choice would be the same. And BTW, my brother, who HAD an Oddy, just bought a Sedona.
Obviously, you are satisfied with your purchases, and your entire vehicle situation. Wonderful. Great. Happy for ya!
Keep in mind, there are more imprtant things in life. I suggest you hug your wife, hug your daughter, and remember what REAL wealth is....and that, dear sir, has nothing to do with money, or an automobile.
Hokum
Hi Guys, I am a Sienna owner. About seat rattle I have some experience , which may help some of you. I have captain chairs in second row. Once When I tumbled my rear and second row seats I saw Electric Tape wrapped onto the metal where the seats sit. I did not give much about it. But after reading some compalins about seat rattles in Sienna Problems forum, it struck me that the dealer has proactively taken care of the seat rattles !
You may try and see whether it helps in removing the seat rattle or no.
/Re-lurking
John
I don't want this, or any other Owners Club board in which I participate, to turn into a total joyfest where we ignore any issues, problems, or complaints with our vehicles. But I definitely do NOT want the stupid, negative, factless comments that we endure here from time to time.
People make those kinds of comments and they think you're being defensive when you attempt to respond to, or refute, the illogical with logic! This makes them look even dumber than their original dumb comments.
If he persists with ANY more comments I am with Bluedevils, we'll have him figureatively chopped, drawn and quartered.
In special forces we had other means to deal with sick individuals who take rabid pleasure in amusing themselves abusing others........it was not pretty.
The likes of you, is no better than a terrorist.
We can, and will hunt you down, and you will be exterminated from Edmunds Town Hall period.
Your time has come Mr. Carleton. Go ahead, make my day.
Personally, I truly hope that the Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth etc.have gotten all of their reliablility issues resolved. I think we all wish we could buy an American vehicle, crafted through and through with U.S.A. labor and products, and get the quality vehicle we pay for. I for one wouldn't mind paying more for a mini-van if that were the case.
/javadoc
Now, addressing your openly unkind remarks towards my last post... what have I posted lately that has been anything deserving of such treatment? The last time I posted here, I was giving out advise to a potential Kia buyer who was going to pick up their new van. My advise for you to possibly calm down was in your best interest. I'd hate to see an active member like yourself to be receiving emails from edmunds staff.
/javadoc
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I had also heard a rattle coming from the rear seats. For me, the rattle was coming from just the seat back, not the entire seat.
I fixed the problem, and would like to share my remedy. You have also seen excellent suggestions from others, please just add this to the "pot".
This worked for me, it should work for you as well.
This explanation may contain way too much information, but as an engineer (mechanical and petroleum), it is my nature.
Essentially, I changed the "system". Let me explain; a rattle is heard when the "system" oscillates at its natural frequency, which is defined as the frequency at which the maginitude of the oscillations increase exponentially. In order to change the natural frequency, and eliminate the rattle, you must change the "system" (specifically, the system mass).
This is what I did: I used that strap, which is intended to be used when the rear seats are double folded, to change the mass of the "system". I attached one end of the strap to the vertical bar that is attached to the bottom of the head rest, and then attached the other end of the strap to the frame under the seat. I then put some tension on the strap.
Since the natural frequency is dependent on the mass of the "system", if you change the systems mass, you change its natural frequency. By affixing the seat back to the seat bottom with the strap, the "system" changes from just the seat back, to the entire seat; having different mass. Therefore, the natural frequency changed (actually by a factor of the (square root of (1/(the change in system mass))), and the rattle was eliminated.
The only problem with this is if rear seat passengers wish to decline the seat back. When the seat back is lowered toward the rear, the strap tension is eliminated, and the "system" (and its mass) changes back to the original, and the rattle may come back (depending on weight of passenger; see below). Additionally, the strap tension makes it impossible to raise the seat back toward the front of the vehicle. You would have to release the strap if the passenger wishes to move the seat back forward.
But really, how often do rear passengers wish to move the seat back and recline? Furthermore, with a rear seat passenger leaning against the seat back, the system mass changes anyway.....no rattle.
I apologize for my longwinded explanation. As I said earlier, it is my nature (and my job).
Hope this helps.
Regards to all
HOKUM.
Depending on strap tension, you may actually change the system mass to that of the entire van! Since the seat bottom is latched into the floorboard, THAT system is the seat bottom and the entire van. When you add the seat back "system" to the seat bottom "system"....which is within the van "system"....ok, you get the point.
Now it is possible to see the dramatic effect on rattle elimination; 30# seat back to 4700# van. HUGE system change.
OK, I'm done now. Anyone else sick of the word "system"???
HOKUM
First of all thanks to all of the folks that have provided posts concerning their experience so far with the Kia Sedona. After reviewing as much research as possible on the internet my wife and I have decided to purchase a new Sedona EX.
My question how is this deal ? Dealer is offering a almost fully loaded EX minus the rear spoiler for $22,100 plus 0% interest for 36 months. He initially stating that he would go "under invoice" but I noticed a $413 "marketing allowance" added to the costs.
The MSRP is $23,960. So what do you folks think about this deal ???
Thanks again for all the info on this board.
Not sure how to reply to your message so Im submitting a new one. Im in the Northeast ( near Boston ) there's a few dealers here. This one is only 6 miles from my house. Just sopke to another dealer and of course they wont quote over the phone. I think the offer is good but my wife is tough, so I may "let her drive "...
Sounds like an excellent deal. I called the dealer and asked to put a "hold" on the van I tested ( its actually in the showroom ). I was really impressed with how nice it rides. We've been looking to buy an Odyssey but all the dealers have a take it or leave it attitude. Plus the wait is on to get one... so I'm glad we "discovered" the Sedona. Lots of good stuff for 22k. Just tell me where to sign.
Hope to be reporting soon on our new EX....
We bought our Sedona EX with everything except rear spoiler (MSRP $23,960) last week for $22,930. I was very comfortable with this price but could have done about $500 better from another dealer that emailed me an offer after we signed a buyers order with our local dealer.
Just think about what you are getting for $22,000 or so: a great powertrain-- peppy 3.5L DOHC, 24 valve engine, 5-speed automatic (differentiates Sedona in the minivan segment), ABS, moonroof, great stereo, power front seats, leather, etc. Compare that with what you get from other brands at the same price point and there's really no comparison.
The only drawbacks I see are potential quality issues (so far, so good from what you hear on this board) and a few key features that are missing (power sliding doors, rear-seat entertainment system, heated front seats, traction control or all-wheel drive option, etc.). However, the lack of these relatively upscale options should not be an issue for most minivan shoppers.
Also filled her up tonight and probably got around 16mpg in mostly commuter, stop and go driving, no real highway spins.
And by the way, much thanks to kristie h for quelling the banter that needed to be taken outside this forum. Let's hope everyone will behave so that we can have some meaningful asynchronous chat about our new cars' pluses and minuses.
Good luck finding a dealer that will treat you with respect and sell you a vehicle that meets your requirements. You'll find one.
I'm guessing that there is not a single Sedona van in the USA that is equipped with ABS as the only optional item. They aren't building them that way because a) they wanted to force people to buy other "optional" equipment such as moonroof, leather, etc. or b) they legitimately did not expect people to want a van equipped that way. It's probably 90% reason "a" and 10% reason "b."
This is very common practice among most auto manufacturers. If you have very specific requirements and those requirements are different from most other customers, then at best you will have to wait several weeks for a van to be built to your exact specifications.
Anyone recommend a good dealer and willing to disclose what they paid. My local dealer said MSRP was it and refused to negotiate. I plan to call him back next week and see if he has changed his mind.
Thanks,
Mike
EX, leather, two tone, sunroof, home link, free oil changes 1 year, $21,800.
The issues, the car had 280 miles when we picked it up, and a busted drivers arm rest, the "rattle in the back" and a the sliding passenger door seems to NOT be meeting the latch. There is an apparent "knock" before the door closes like it is tapping the latch and then going into place.
The dealer needed some coercing and finally replaced the arm rest. GREAT
They put in a KIA sound proofing kit in the back door to stop the rattle? Any one hear of this solution?
The sliding door they say is no problem, and we get the ole' could not duplicate. Well, they greased the door, blamed it on the weather seal, it needs to get adjusted. It still knocks, and dealer says they don't want to do anything more for fear of adjusting, it and then allowing in water, maybe not getting a good seal. So, any one hear of this???? It is driving my wife nuts, she wants to sell it, the door is definitely wrong, but does this matter, will it get worse, will it create damages in the long run. Is the dealer avoiding a bigger issue??
Now with 650 miles.... we may sell the Sedona.
Please help.
thank you
Hmm.
Sounds like you got a van someone else rejected. You might want to discuss that possibility with the dealer before you drive it much further.
I was disappointed in a few initial issues with my LX (rear brake shoes contaminated by factory grease - dealer replaced, clicking shift interlock brake solenoid - fixed myself with a thick piece of foam between the brake pedal and the solenoid button). Once these issues were worked out, I have grown to like the van more and more every time I drive it.
Hope things work out.
Phil
2. From what you have told us, selling this van would be premature at this point. As philliplc said, be persistent with the dealer, or visit another dealer, until the door problem is resolved. Whether you bought new or used, the van is under warranty. Is it really worth taking a $2-4k hit to be rid of this vehicle and this door? Not to me.
3. Did your transaction include a trade-in? $21,800 sounds like a very good price, but not a "too good to be true" price.
We did not end up buying from Crown Kia because the local dealer agreed to $1,000 off MSRP (Sedona EX with everything but rear spoiler, MSRP $23,930; we paid $22,930), but I recommend that you give Crown a call. 614.761.2360.
Your local dealer will start dropping prices soon, once he realizes that the market for the Sedona is not bearing full MSRP.
I was also pleased with Keller Kia in Grand Rapids, Mich. Very professional attitude from the sales folks I spoke with. A friend also was treated very well at Keller Kia. But that's a much longer drive for you. 800.452.0758
I like the "wrap tape around the bottom" fix the back seat rattle. Sounds like tolerances weren't real close on the bottom latch/roller bar set up.
RE the MSRP discussion, your dealer certainly can't force you to buy...look for someone you are comfortable with. If you really want a particular car on the lot, talk directly to the sales manager. (Salesman gets the commission anyway). But, if he lies to you to sell you a car, guess how dealing with his service department will be?
Darenio, when I shopped the Wash. DC area for an EX w/ ABS I was told by 5 different dealers that the only way to get ABS was to also get leather, although I never looked into ordering a car directly form the factory.
Newvan2, you definitely got a great deal at 21,800 for the van you described. It also sounds like you got a good deal from a cruddy dealer! I agree w/ philliplc, lean on these guys and don't let up. Remember, you bought a new van from a dealer who needs to bend over backwards to make you, his customer, sing! maybe you need to print off a couple of pages of this forum to sow him how fast word travels on the information superhighway (haven't heard that term in a while). Maybe you can tell us all where you are located and the dealer's name so we can beware (if we truly need to be) Good Luck.
If you get the chance, try Faulkner in West Chester (Rte #3). Ask for Tom. They don't have a lot of inventory. When I was there they had 2 LXs and 2 EXs. They were really great though and would probably find you what you're looking for if they didn't have it. I haven't purchased yet, but they are going to be my dealer if the Sedona wins out. BTW, interest rates are posted on the Kia website under specials, so there is no question there, but I had the same issue of dealers "not knowing" with a Mazda dealer and had to phone MazdaUSA to confirm. Also, I believe that an Allentown Kia dealer has posted a 1% over invoice deal on Sedonas. That may merit double checking if for no other purpose than to take the info to someone more local. Good luck! sritrovato
Occasionally went over some big bumps, heard a couple of rattles from the roof rack, otherwise it is silent and solid.
The consensus is basically this: synthetic blend contains a very small percentage of synthetic oil, and the price difference vs. regular oil basically makes the blends a ripoff.
Blending your own, by combining 1 quart full synthetic with 3 or 4 quarts of regular petroleum-based oil, is a much better option. It's cheaper and probably is a better protectant than the off-the-shelf blends. Most folks recommend sticking with the same brand of synthetic and petrol-based oil, when mixing yourself. E.g. if you want to use Mobil 1 synthetic, don't mix it with anything other than Mobil's petrol-based oil. This may be an unnecessary precaution, but the idea is that the additive packages in different brands of oil have a greater chance of being incompatible or detrimental to one another than do the additives found in same-brand synthetic and petrol-based oils.
I hope this helps.
The Severe schedule, the definition of which probably covers the majority of the vehicles being driven, calls for 3,000 mile oil changes and 6,000 mile filter changes.
This is the first time I've ever heard any automotive authority (manufacturer, dealership, independent shop, web site, radio host, etc.) recommend a longer interval for the filter than for the actual oil. I will not be following this recommendation, as I am convinced from following the oil-related boards on Edmund's Town Hall that no oil filter performs well for 15,000 miles!
How often have you folks been changing the oil and filter? Has the dealer been performing your oil changes?
If I stick with petroleum-based oil, I will probably follow a 3000-4000 mile change interval for both oil and filter. If I switch to full synthetic, I may stretch that to 6000-8000 miles on the oil with an additional filter change halfway between the oil change.
It seems that many engines tend to run better on certain viscosities. For example, it's generally agreed that the 3.2L V6 and 3.5L V6 in 1992-current Isuzu Troopers runs best on 5W30 oil, or possibly 10W30.
Today's engines are being designed for thinner and thinner engine oils. I plan to use either 5W30 or 10W30 in our new Sedona, unless someone here, or from Kia, from a Kia dealer, or from some other source can provide compelling thoughts on why a thicker oil is better with the Sedona's engine.
Everyone that I know changes the oil AND the filter at regular intervals. The most suggested intervals I've seens are 5000 kilometers, which is just over 3000 miles for you guys down south.
It is a small price to pay for engine protection.
Any mechanic worth his salt will tell you that preventative maintenance pays for itself in the long run! - Greg