Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations (Archived)

fintail

It should fire right up. Probably no need to do anything other than a basic inspection, and service schedule by the book. 7 months isn't too bad.

If it just needs an oil change, indy shops are not always a huge savings. For a major service or other work, then it can add up. If this is like a Service B, that with the time savings may make the indy worth it.

driver100 said:

Hopefully the 2014 C250 will start right away. It hasn't been used for 7 months. It is on a trickle charger and has STAB-IL in the tank.
It is coming up to 24000 miles and will need the one year oil change.
The question is.......would you go to the dealership to have work done, OR, I can go to two highly rated European indie garages that are much closer, 30 minutes vs one hour?
What else do you think should be looked at at 24000 miles?

fintail

Every time I see a mouthless Tesla, I think of Twilight Zone The Movie:

xwesx said:

tjc78 said:

When will this trend end... 2019 Elantra.  As if the current grill wasn’t big enough.  Ugh. 

My guess is that it will die concurrently with the full onset of electric cars.

snakeweasel

driver100 said:

Hopefully the 2014 C250 will start right away. It hasn't been used for 7 months. It is on a trickle charger and has STAB-IL in the tank. It is coming up to 24000 miles and will need the one year oil change. The question is.......would you go to the dealership to have work done, OR, I can go to two highly rated European indie garages that are much closer, 30 minutes vs one hour? What else do you think should be looked at at 24000 miles?

Unless the oil changes at the dealership are a lot less expensive go with the independent shop. They are highly rated and half the distance away.

What else to do at 24K? See what the owners manual says.

xwesx

dino001 said:

If you want to save some money and have transportation then go for an independent garage specializing in German/Euro cars. They're often quite good, many of those people are former dealer mechanics. Now, what to do at 24k? may be time for engine air filter, cabin air filter and brake fluid. Look at your tires, if the wear looks a bit uneven, do an alignment. If not, it's up to you, you can probably wait until installing new tires. They may try to sell you more fluid changes, like transmission, differential and power steering, but I those can wait. BTW, you should have computer in your car telling you what kind of service is needed.

If not done previously, I agree that it is a good time to change the air filters and brake fluid.

As far as the miles, this car is still a baby.

driver100

abacomike said:

driver100 said:

Hopefully the 2014 C250 will start right away. It hasn't been used for 7 months. It is on a trickle charger and has STAB-IL in the tank.
It is coming up to 24000 miles and will need the one year oil change.
The question is.......would you go to the dealership to have work done, OR, I can go to two highly rated European indie garages that are much closer, 30 minutes vs one hour?
What else do you think should be looked at at 24000 miles?

A new car! 

Funny....Mike have you ever reached 24000 miles?

driver100

dino001 said:

driver100 said:

Hopefully the 2014 C250 will start right away. It hasn't been used for 7 months. It is on a trickle charger and has STAB-IL in the tank.
It is coming up to 24000 miles and will need the one year oil change.
The question is.......would you go to the dealership to have work done, OR, I can go to two highly rated European indie garages that are much closer, 30 minutes vs one hour?
What else do you think should be looked at at 24000 miles?

If you want to save some money and have transportation then go for an independent garage specializing in German/Euro cars. They're often quite good, many of those people are former dealer mechanics. Now, what to do at 24k? may be time for engine air filter, cabin air filter and brake fluid. Look at your tires, if the wear looks a bit uneven, do an alignment. If not, it's up to you, you can probably wait until installing new tires. They may try to sell you more fluid changes, like transmission, differential and power steering, but I those can wait. BTW, you should have computer in your car telling you what kind of service is needed.

Excellent synopsis Dino. Last year when I was waiting for the car while it had an oil change under warranty the service manager came out and said I needed new brakes, a battery, a few other things that added up to $2800 - then he said these things usually need servicing at 60k miles. I said, that doesn't sound like it was my car. It was someone elses car....that makes me a little hesitant about using the dealer for service.
The indies say they have the latest equipment and both of them get 5 star reviews with lots of excellent comments.
Thanks for the things to look for Dino....it makes it easier for them not to oversell me...although the two garages get good comments about being fair and honest.

driver100

fintail said:

It should fire right up. Probably no need to do anything other than a basic inspection, and service schedule by the book. 7 months isn't too bad.

If it just needs an oil change, indy shops are not always a huge savings. For a major service or other work, then it can add up. If this is like a Service B, that with the time savings may make the indy worth it.

driver100 said:

Hopefully the 2014 C250 will start right away. It hasn't been used for 7 months. It is on a trickle charger and has STAB-IL in the tank.
It is coming up to 24000 miles and will need the one year oil change.
The question is.......would you go to the dealership to have work done, OR, I can go to two highly rated European indie garages that are much closer, 30 minutes vs one hour?
What else do you think should be looked at at 24000 miles?

Thanks Fin....helpful info. Customers noted the indies were fast, efficient and honest. This dealer is never fast or efficient (AutoNation). Good coffee and cookies, but, the efficiency is lacking. The only thing that could be checked I guess is the tires, fluids and filters, possibly brakes.
The C250 started right away. I found the tires may have had flat spots from sitting there, but, after a highway run it was fine. Probably should check the pressure, I over inflated them a bit, but they may be down a bit and close to where it should be...no warning came on.

driver100

fintail said:

Every time I see a mouthless Tesla, I think of Twilight Zone The Movie:

xwesx said:

tjc78 said:

When will this trend end... 2019 Elantra.  As if the current grill wasn’t big enough.  Ugh. 

My guess is that it will die concurrently with the full onset of electric cars.

That is funny.....they should use her in the Tesla ads.....

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

Hopefully the 2014 C250 will start right away. It hasn't been used for 7 months. It is on a trickle charger and has STAB-IL in the tank.
It is coming up to 24000 miles and will need the one year oil change.
The question is.......would you go to the dealership to have work done, OR, I can go to two highly rated European indie garages that are much closer, 30 minutes vs one hour?
What else do you think should be looked at at 24000 miles?

Unless the oil changes at the dealership are a lot less expensive go with the independent shop. They are highly rated and half the distance away.

What else to do at 24K? See what the owners manual says.

You mean I gotta look that stuff up? Real men don't ask for directions and they don't read a manual.

stickguy

Driver, you need something like this for the winter snooze.

https://www.ebay.com/i/173019688223?chn=ps&ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-117182-37290-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fi%252F173019688223%253Fchn%253Dps%26itemid%3D173019688223%26targetid%3D483853065747%26device%3Dt%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9003787%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D1499095126%26adgroupid%3D64669591424%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-483853065747%26abcId%3D1139396%26merchantid%3D8389764%26gclid%3DEAIaIQobChMI1oT6p42i3gIVC8DICh2yzg61EAQYBCABEgIPCPD_BwE%26srcrot%3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1716891952276%26rvr_ts%3Dac3efd0c1660ad4d98819dc7fffe4c1c

driver100

Wow! perfect for Austin Healy's....must sell a ton of those babies.

I don't see how they would do much. They tires are on rubber mats that have some cushioning, apparently not enough. Should see if I can find someone throwing out an old sofa....a few large foam cushions may work....no floral patterns though

Thanks though stick...probably a waste of $60 seeing if they will work!

dino001

By the way, for my manual does not provide recommendations any longer, which I think is completely ridiculous. I asked my dealer for an official BMW maintenance publication and they had told me there wasn't any for 2018 4-series. There "service and warranty" book includes only information about coverage, but nothing about the maintenance requirements beyond those that computer tells you. The computer only shows things that are applicable in first 50-60 thousand miles, but at higher mileage you are completely on your own to figure out when you may need a differential or transmission fluid, or fuel filter, or even air filter (it does not show up on the computer). I wrote to them pretty scathing note that I think it's a clear dereliction of their responsibilities toward the owners.

This whole "ultimate care" is turning into disgraceful slight of hand, in my opinion. Now you get an "ultimate care", but then they can sell you even "more ultimate" care for couple of grand and that's just during warranty period. Outside of warranty you may purchase "ultimate-squared" care, I suppose .

Mr_Shiftright

graphicguy said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

graphicguy said:

Calling @Mr_Shiftright ........thoughts?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Porsche-911/223201397473?hash=item33f7d70ae1:g:FSkAAOSwNptbyg1k&vxp=mtr

Low miles pushing up the bid. Normally $25K would be more than enough for the car. I can't see having an automatic in that car (it's not a dual-clutch type, just an old fashioned automatic with a torque converter).

Might be a nice car for someone but not so sure the low miles are worth too-too much of a premium. It is, after all, just a used car, not a precious classic.

Liked it, except didn’t like the auto trans. Put in top bid of $25K. Went past that pretty quickly with 3 days left on the bid. I’m out!

Thanks!

Good move on that one. I would have valued it at $21K plus a few thou for miles. Value trend for 996s is stagnant right now.

28firefighter

That is a pretty 996, but a Tiptronic?

Mr_Shiftright

More common than you'd think. Same with Corvettes---over 50% automatics.

driver100

dino001 said:

By the way, for my manual does not provide recommendations any longer, which I think is completely ridiculous. I asked my dealer for an official BMW maintenance publication and they had told me there wasn't any for 2018 4-series. There "service and warranty" book includes only information about coverage, but nothing about the maintenance requirements beyond those that computer tells you. The computer only shows things that are applicable in first 50-60 thousand miles, but at higher mileage you are completely on your own to figure out when you may need a differential or transmission fluid, or fuel filter, or even air filter (it does not show up on the computer). I wrote to them pretty scathing note that I think it's a clear dereliction of their responsibilities toward the owners.

This whole "ultimate care" is turning into disgraceful slight of hand, in my opinion. Now you get an "ultimate care", but then they can sell you even "more ultimate" care for couple of grand and that's just during warranty period. Outside of warranty you may purchase "ultimate-squared" care, I suppose .

I guess they would say....since we can diagnose your car now we know exactly what it needs, no need for a chart. I like the chart, just to get ideas what should or should not be done.

It may be just a dealer vs dealer thing, and I like BMWs just as much as Mercedes, but, I find my Mercedes dealer to be much easier to work with, and has been much more trustworthy about pricing....two out of two times being below the estimate.

driver100

One thing about the flight yesterday out of Toronto. You actually go through American customs at the airport in Toronto. Now that pot is legal in Canada you can be denied entry into the U.S. if you have pot on you, if you have any convictions for possessing, if you admit you use it or have used it, probably if you admit to making money from the marijuana industry and if you working in a pot store, or a legal grow op etc. They actually waved the drug wand on my hands, took it to their drug detector device.....and then let me go through.

stickguy

Driver, the point is that the tires are on a round surface, so no flat spotting. I bekueve they do work.

bwia

A short version of a long story.

My 60-something handyman friend came to me depressed and in tears. His 41-year old girlfriend asked him to co-sign a loan on a 2016 CPO Cadillac XT5. Problem is, her credit was so bad that the loan was denied so she asked him to buy the car in his name and she will make the payments directly to him. She made a few payments and then stopped.

Don't know what happened but they stopped being intimate and she is no longer his girlfriend. He does not have the money to make the loan payments but he is continuing to make payments on the insurance. Meanwhile, the ex-girlfriend refuses to take his calls and the bank is calling incessantly. And as would be expected his credit is trashed and he does not know what to do?

Any suggestions for my handyman friend?

stickguy

Tell the bank where to find the car so they can repo it.

Actually, unless they drew up a contract, the car is his. He should go take it back since in his name, then sell it. Or file a theft complaint if she won’t return it. And sue her in small claims maybe.

His credit is hurt, so at this point, just revenge and damage control left.

Michaell

bwia said:

A short version of a long story.

My 60-something handyman friend came to me depressed and in tears. His 41-year old girlfriend asked him to co-sign a loan on a 2016 CPO Cadillac XT5. Problem is, her credit was so bad that the loan was denied so she asked him to buy the car in his name and she will make the payments directly to him. She made a few payments and then stopped.

Don't know what happened but they stopped being intimate and she is no longer his girlfriend. He does not have the money to make the loan payments but he is continuing to make payments on the insurance. Meanwhile, the ex-girlfriend refuses to take his calls and the bank is calling incessantly. And as would be expected his credit is trashed and he does not know what to do?

Any suggestions for my handyman friend?

My first thought is to sell the car and take the loss.

He can try to collect something via small claims court, but not sure how successful that would be. If her credit was that bad to begin with, a judgement against her won't matter much.

stickguy

1st step has to be to get his car away from her.

28firefighter

Who has possession of the car?

driver100

stickguy said:

Driver, the point is that the tires are on a round surface, so no flat spotting. I bekueve they do work.

Stick, it is a real problem....I thought this was a freak thing. Apparently, the tires usually get back to normal after 25 miles of driving in most cases. One guys solution is to overfill tires by 5 pounds. It seems those ramps could work........I will think about it. Nice to get some used ones for about $20 bucks.....if I get them here I should probably get them for hme too. Flat spots can happen in a month or two...and better tires are often more prone to flat spots.

driver100

bwia said:

A short version of a long story.

My 60-something handyman friend came to me depressed and in tears. His 41-year old girlfriend asked him to co-sign a loan on a 2016 CPO Cadillac XT5. Problem is, her credit was so bad that the loan was denied so she asked him to buy the car in his name and she will make the payments directly to him. She made a few payments and then stopped.

Don't know what happened but they stopped being intimate and she is no longer his girlfriend. He does not have the money to make the loan payments but he is continuing to make payments on the insurance. Meanwhile, the ex-girlfriend refuses to take his calls and the bank is calling incessantly. And as would be expected his credit is trashed and he does not know what to do?

Any suggestions for my handyman friend?

I see these cases on Hot Bench all the time. No doubt the ex-girlfriend will say the car was a gift and she doesn't owe. Personal advice would be....don't be too trusting until you really know someone......and only co-sign when you really know someone. He should be able to get the car back....then he has to sort it out with the bank. If he can't afford the car he has to sell it and it has to be considered an expensive learning experience. And he should be glad the relationship did not go further and they started living together - that could have become even more costly.

xwesx

If you have jack stands, an easy way to prevent flat spotting is to set the vehicle on stands so that the tires are slightly off the floor. Works great for concrete floors, but not so much for gravel pads as the stands tend to sink into the ground over time.

driver100

That is definitely the best way to do it...but, this is my leisure life time...I ain't jacking up no car. Rather try and ride out the flat spots....even if it does feel like the car is badly out of alignment.

driver100

Here is a list from the manual...things to do at 20k miles:
Chge oil and filter, check catches and hinges on hood, check poly-v belt, clean water deflector????, reset maintenance service indicator, replace brake fluid, replace dust filter, check thickness of brake pad, correct tire pressure, check for leakage?????, check DEF lines, Visual inspection front axle ball joints, rubber boots, visual of driveshaft flexible joints, visual of steering components, Coolant level check, brake system, power steering, windshield washer system, parking brake function, check tires, check air pressure monitor, check headlight settings, condition of battery....and on and on....this is about 2/3rds of the list.

It was all done at 12000 miles when I got it...so, I think just the oil change should be enough, possibly tire pressure if I don't do it, and then chance the rest.

abacomike

driver100 said:

driver100 said:

Hopefully the 2014 C250 will start right away. It hasn't been used for 7 months. It is on a trickle charger and has STAB-IL in the tank. It is coming up to 24000 miles and will need the one year oil change. The question is.......would you go to the dealership to have work done, OR, I can go to two highly rated European indie garages that are much closer, 30 minutes vs one hour? What else do you think should be looked at at 24000 miles?

A new car! 

Funny....Mike have you ever reached 24000 miles?

Yes I have.  I had a 1991 300E Mercedes that had 61,500 miles on it when I traded it.  But that was the only one. 

dino001

driver100 said:

Here is a list from the manual...things to do at 20k miles:
Chge oil and filter, check catches and hinges on hood, check poly-v belt, clean water deflector????, reset maintenance service indicator, replace brake fluid, replace dust filter, check thickness of brake pad, correct tire pressure, check for leakage?????, check DEF lines, Visual inspection front axle ball joints, rubber boots, visual of driveshaft flexible joints, visual of steering components, Coolant level check, brake system, power steering, windshield washer system, parking brake function, check tires, check air pressure monitor, check headlight settings, condition of battery....and on and on....this is about 2/3rds of the list.

It was all done at 12000 miles when I got it...so, I think just the oil change should be enough, possibly tire pressure if I don't do it, and then chance the rest.

I only wonder if they really do all that checking they claim. But I called the filters and the brake fluid, because these were approximate times they did same things on my wagon.

dino001

driver100 said:

I guess they would say....since we can diagnose your car now we know exactly what it needs, no need for a chart. I like the chart, just to get ideas what should or should not be done.

The problem with "diagnostic" is not real diagnostic. The engine oil change indicator is not based on actual analysis of chemical and physical properties, but on driving patterns, which is only part of the picture (think driving in dusty or salty areas). Same thing with other fluids, I think. There are no sensors, just computer programs. Plus, not all services are even indicated on the screen. Air filters for example are not listed. It's OK during the prepaid maintenance period, but after that it would be nice of them to tell what is a good maximum anticipated period of replacement.

It really bugs me.

abacomike

driver100 said:

Here is a list from the manual...things to do at 20k miles: Chge oil and filter, check catches and hinges on hood, check poly-v belt, clean water deflector????, reset maintenance service indicator, replace brake fluid, replace dust filter, check thickness of brake pad, correct tire pressure, check for leakage?????, check DEF lines, Visual inspection front axle ball joints, rubber boots, visual of driveshaft flexible joints, visual of steering components, Coolant level check, brake system, power steering, windshield washer system, parking brake function, check tires, check air pressure monitor, check headlight settings, condition of battery....and on and on....this is about 2/3rds of the list. It was all done at 12000 miles when I got it...so, I think just the oil change should be enough, possibly tire pressure if I don't do it, and then chance the rest.

The information in your manual is important only if you are expecting to keep your car.  If I remember correctly, your car is still under warranty - right?  Then you should have your B service done.  If it is not on warranty, use the B service recommendations anyway because it will add value to the car when you eventually sell it,

Just my recommendation.

henryn

re: tires flat spotting

A few years back I checked out a Ford F150 which had been parked and not moved for about 6 years. The guy selling it had picked it up at an auction and (mostly) fixed the expected problems. New battery, fresh oil, etc. But it had what looked like a brand new set of Michelin tires which had "flat spotted". That thing rode like it had square tires. The guy trying to sell it swore up and down that the tires would "come back", I disagreed, no sell.

explorerx4

@bwia,
A big question is, did HE stop making payments?
Some legal advice might be appropriate.
Do you know anyone who could give some basic guidance?

28firefighter

@bwia - To sum up some other points made, I think there are some questions we need answered to even point in the right direction:

(1) How is the car titled and financed? Is your friend the only name on the registration and finance contract, or are both he and the ex-girlfriend still on it?

(2) Who currently has possession of the vehicle?

(3) What kind of car (year, make, model, options, mileage, condition etc) and how much is owed on it?

bwia

explorerx4 said:

@bwia, A big question is, did HE stop making payments? Some legal advice might be appropriate. Do you know anyone who could give some basic guidance?

Yes, I believe he had stopped making payments. But after noticing that he cashed a $600 check minutes after receiving it from me (for a couple of small jobs) I'm inclined to believe that he made another car payment.

explorerx4

Pretty good Ford truck commercial, but it's missing one thing, the white pickup form Mr Majestyk.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SR_mGhT2iLM&index=3&list=PLCFM1h5Oz66h1hHSXoO5-6pziQfi4cOpu

That's a major faux pas.

abacomike

My S450 goes in to the dealership for it’s A SERVICE on November 7th.  When I made the appointment, I reminded them that I am a member of the Mercedes Benz Club of America.  Instead of $395, the cost to me is $250 for the 2-hour service.  I have to put wiper blades on for $50 which is $35 less than they usually charge.

I am going to wait in service for the 2 hours - they offered me an E300 as a loaner, but I preferred just waiting.

bwia

28firefighter said:

@bwia - To sum up some other points made, I think there are some questions we need answered to even point in the right direction: (1) How is the car titled and financed? Is your friend the only name on the registration and finance contract, or are both he and the ex-girlfriend still on it? (2) Who currently has possession of the vehicle? (3) What kind of car (year, make, model, options, mileage, condition etc) and how much is owed on it?

The 10k miles 2016 CPO Cadillac XT5 is financed by a local bank. Title and registration is solely in his name. The car however is in the posession of the ex-girlfriend. 

And how ironic, when she initially offered him a key he refused. Now he regrets that decision but he thought he was hopelessly in love with her. Oh, the stupid things we do for love.

Mr_Shiftright

I would pay to have a two truck snatch it away and then take it to the dealer for a new key. That won't be cheap but it will protect the car from damage at least.

I wouldn't have it repossessed. He can advertise and sell it on his own and come out better. New owner pays off most of the loan (hopefully he's not too upside down) and he begs or borrows enough to pay off the rest.

Get it off his back and out of her hands.

Every bump, scratch and mile added is on his tab right now.

28firefighter

I have some thoughts here. Will share later. 

First and foremost he needs to get the car back. If he asks for it back (in writing) and she doesn’t return it, he would be in his rights to report the car stolen. At least then he is in control of what happens - selling, voluntary repo, involuntary repo etc. 

roadburner

@oldfarmer50
I thought of you when I read the October Car and Driver; it contains a comparison test of the 2019 Aston Martin Vantage, the 2018 Mercedes-AMG GT C, and the 2018 Porsche 911 GT3. Their prices ranged from $186,806 to $151,200. What I found interesting was their acceleration times. Stock, your GT and my 2 Series can both run from 0-60 in about 4.3 seconds and cover the quarter mile in the high twelves- but the three supercars were less than one second faster to 60 and only a little over a second faster in the quarter.
This is truly the golden era of cheap speed, and I plan to enjoy it for as long as possible...

roadburner

bwia said:

A short version of a long story.

My 60-something handyman friend came to me depressed and in tears. His 41-year old girlfriend asked him to co-sign a loan on a 2016 CPO Cadillac XT5. Problem is, her credit was so bad that the loan was denied so she asked him to buy the car in his name and she will make the payments directly to him. She made a few payments and then stopped.

Don't know what happened but they stopped being intimate and she is no longer his girlfriend. He does not have the money to make the loan payments but he is continuing to make payments on the insurance. Meanwhile, the ex-girlfriend refuses to take his calls and the bank is calling incessantly. And as would be expected his credit is trashed and he does not know what to do?

Any suggestions for my handyman friend?

To quote the late Robin Williams,
"The problem is, God gave man a brain and a p***s and only enough blood to run one at a time.'"

xwesx

28firefighter said:

I have some thoughts here. Will share later. 

First and foremost he needs to get the car back. If he asks for it back (in writing) and she doesn’t return it, he would be in his rights to report the car stolen. At least then he is in control of what happens - selling, voluntary repo, involuntary repo etc. 

I agree, but would go a step farther: Report the car stolen now, and provide the police with all of the contact information he can. If she will not take his calls and has stopped paying, then she's already stolen it and deserves some time in jail.

boomchek

@bwia I would track the car via GM's onstar. Assuming subscription is active the car can be located through the service. If not, then pay to activate it and track it down. Like others said get possession of it first and then deal with disposing it in order to pay off the loan.

tjc78

Have to agree.  Get the car back and prevent her from taking it again.  

From there Carmax or private sale to get as close to loan value as possible.  

graphicguy

Mr_Shiftright said:

graphicguy said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

graphicguy said:

Calling @Mr_Shiftright ........thoughts?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Porsche-911/223201397473?hash=item33f7d70ae1:g:FSkAAOSwNptbyg1k&vxp=mtr

Low miles pushing up the bid. Normally $25K would be more than enough for the car. I can't see having an automatic in that car (it's not a dual-clutch type, just an old fashioned automatic with a torque converter).

Might be a nice car for someone but not so sure the low miles are worth too-too much of a premium. It is, after all, just a used car, not a precious classic.

Liked it, except didn’t like the auto trans. Put in top bid of $25K. Went past that pretty quickly with 3 days left on the bid. I’m out!

Thanks!

Good move on that one. I would have valued it at $21K plus a few thou for miles. Value trend for 996s is stagnant right now.

28firefighter said:

That is a pretty 996, but a Tiptronic?

Probably would have over paid if it was a manual trans ($26K?). Looks really nice. I liked the color, miles, and the condition. But, it’s now over $26K. I liked it enough at $24k, I probably would have sent a deposit sight unseen. It’s over $26K now. Not interested as I thought I was above and beyond at $25k bid.

snakeweasel

roadburner said:

@oldfarmer50 I thought of you when I read the October Car and Driver; it contains a comparison test of the 2019 Aston Martin Vantage, the 2018 Mercedes-AMG GT C, and the 2018 Porsche 911 GT3. Their prices ranged from $186,806 to $151,200. What I found interesting was their acceleration times. Stock, your GT and my 2 Series can both run from 0-60 in about 4.3 seconds and cover the quarter mile in the high twelves- but the three supercars were less than one second faster to 60 and only a little over a second faster in the quarter. This is truly the golden era of cheap speed, and I plan to enjoy it for as long as possible...

If you want cheap speed for $15k you can get a Suzuki Hayabusa which will get you to 60 in 2.7 seconds and do the quarter mile in the high nines. 

imidazol97

Guy bought a car and was told Apple CarPlay was on it. It's not.

https://forums.edmunds.com/discussion/52954/bmw/x/my-dealer-lied-to-me-about-included-features-in-the-car

driver100

abacomike said:

driver100 said:

abacomike said:

driver100 said:

Hopefully the 2014 C250 will start right away. It hasn't been used for 7 months. It is on a trickle charger and has STAB-IL in the tank.
It is coming up to 24000 miles and will need the one year oil change.
The question is.......would you go to the dealership to have work done, OR, I can go to two highly rated European indie garages that are much closer, 30 minutes vs one hour?
What else do you think should be looked at at 24000 miles?

A new car! 

Funny....Mike have you ever reached 24000 miles?

Yes I have.  I had a 1991 300E Mercedes that had 61,500 miles on it when I traded it.  But that was the only one. 

Quite a record Mike. I won't tell anyone

driver100

abacomike said:

driver100 said:

Here is a list from the manual...things to do at 20k miles:
Chge oil and filter, check catches and hinges on hood, check poly-v belt, clean water deflector????, reset maintenance service indicator, replace brake fluid, replace dust filter, check thickness of brake pad, correct tire pressure, check for leakage?????, check DEF lines, Visual inspection front axle ball joints, rubber boots, visual of driveshaft flexible joints, visual of steering components, Coolant level check, brake system, power steering, windshield washer system, parking brake function, check tires, check air pressure monitor, check headlight settings, condition of battery....and on and on....this is about 2/3rds of the list.

It was all done at 12000 miles when I got it...so, I think just the oil change should be enough, possibly tire pressure if I don't do it, and then chance the rest.

The information in your manual is important only if you are expecting to keep your car.  If I remember correctly, your car is still under warranty - right?  Then you should have your B service done.  If it is not on warranty, use the B service recommendations anyway because it will add value to the car when you eventually sell it,

Just my recommendation.

It is out of warranty now. The call the Certified car warranty a 5 year warranty, which really means it ends 5 years from when the car was first sold. Our warranty really ran for a year and a half. Out of warranty. When it was certified at 12000 miles they did an 80 point inspection, and all those things were checked or done just 12000 miles ago. The A service was done at 18000 miles...so an oil change this time seems fine to me...I will chance that is enough.