2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

adamho

Did your mom drop you when you were little? I mean come on you are calling this guy a communist for wanting a good price? You must be a democrat..lol. It is known that these cars are selling well below invoice right now because they are trying to move them before the newer better Honda accords come out. If these salesman don't like their jobs or can't make enough money they need to change jobs.

The majority of these salesman who "work hard" wouldn't mind ripping you off the first chance they get. I have bought several cars and been to tons of dealerships. They have tried to rip me off a million times. I don't care about them. I want them to make money but it's not like they are my best friend or family or something. Bottom line is it's my pocket or theirs. I usually prefer mine.

Tu

Last month during the Memorial Day Weekend, I bought a 4dr 05 Accord auto w/leather at Rosenthal Honda in Tyson's corner. The price was $22k plus taxes, tags, destination fee and processing fee. OTD was about $23700, was this a good deal?

Last weekend I went back to purchase an 2dr Civic SE auto for my niece and they gave me an OTD price of $18300. I left and negotiated a price of $17000 OTD at Landmark Honda. which turns out to be own by the same company. Was this a good price?

richards38

If you mean that you bought the EX-L Accord which is the 4 cylinder with leather (no navigation), the price is a bit high so close to the end of the model year.

The '06 Accord will be introduced in just a few weeks, so an EX-L should probably have a pre-tax, etc. price of about $21K. But much depends on supply/demand in your area.

Also, isn't this a question to be asked BEFORE you bought the car?

You have the car now, so enjoy it in good health ............Richard

savagekei05

hello

is ur 26k including tax and everything?

joon

Why do you believe that you should be able to buy the car for the same price as the dealership? You don't demand that Wal-mart sell you a TV at whoesale cost. You don't jump on the internet to find out if there's 5 cents of "wiggle room" in a can of peas at the grocery store. The simple truth is that you're either a selfish communist that doesn't believe that people should be paid for the hard work they do, or you simply can't afford the car and are desperate to live beyond your means.

goodfella,
For years and years most car buyers (me included) dreaded the experience of shopping for a new car, which was akin or worse than a trip to the dentist. The reason is that you had all these fast talking sales people trying to sell you a car for the highest price you could be suckered into paying. Invariably you would be left with the impression that you paid too much for the car. Unlike buying a TV set at Wal-Mart or a can of peas at the local grocery store, you don't really know what the real price for the car is. Car buyers didn't create this "hide the peanut" system, car dealers did. And as expected, car dealers took full advantage of it.

Until forums such as this came along, buyers would always be at a disadvantage when negotiating with these dealers, since buyers didn't have the information (knowledge is king, my friend). This forum leveled the "playing field", so to speak. I do believe in salespeople getting paid fairly for their hard sales effort. Do I feel sorry for them that more people are finding the true "market prices" for new cars, which in many cases is a lot below invoice? Absolutely not! Just as many unaware buyers have paid and will pay too much for their cars (and therefore make the salesperson's commission higher), there is nothing wrong in having some buyers pay the minimum price a dealer will sell their cars for. As long as prices are negotiable (unlike most other goods we buy in this great country), I for one will always try to get it at the minimum price the market will bare. So, spare me the tears.

savagekei05

I am only 19 and i have to help my family to get a car and i know NOTHING! REALLY NOTHING ABUOT BUYING A CAR! SO PLEASE HELP!

We live in the Washington DC Metro area, because it was my first time, i didn't really know what to do, all i did was read carbuyingtips.com and learned little about it.

right now honda has 1250$ Incentive to Dealer and interest, so i tried to pull down into the invoice price

we went to a dealer for Accord V6 LE 4dr 2005 auto for 21,000 including destination but not included tax or other fees, is that a good deal? cuz that's the price i first claimed and they accepted it and i had so much questions about that price, haha. looks like everyone got their car including tax etc on their invoice price!

my mom wants to get the EX V6 since it is so much nicer, but how much i should ask for OTD?what's OTD stands for anyways, haha :confuse:

how much is the best price to claim (like the final price that included tax 5% and all the other fees) for
Accord V6 LE 4dr 2005 auto: :confuse:
Accord V6 EX 4dr 2005 auto: :confuse:

when you guys talk about the price, is that price include tax and all other fees or just the price of the car, cuz some of u guys has extremely below or above the invoice

Anyone can help me, not just this area! :lemon:
this stress me out so much, i did alot of research but i got no answers

HELP HELP PLEASE HELP! I AM ABOUT TO DIE! MORE REPLYS! PLZ

you are welcome to email at stephenscardeal@hotmail.com or msn: stephen_pc@hotmail.com thanks!

ord

I'm looking to purchase a new 2005 Honda Accord LX automatic 4 door sedan. Most of the salesmen are asking for invoice, which is 19034 inc. dest. I received an internet price from an internet manager for 18034 inc. dest. I don't need it with tax since it's for my dad and he lives in another state. Anyone has a better price than that? Thanks for any help.

mqqb1

If you read this forum you will learn a lot about buyinig a car. I am not the most experienced poster but just recently bought a 2005 Accord EX v6 4-door sedan (leather interior; no navigation) and this forum helped me get a great price.

1. You can do a lot of negotiating direcly over the Internet with dealers; they will not know you are inexperienced if you take some basic steps when you communicate with them.
2. OTD = OUT THE DOOR price for a car. It usually includes the price you agree with the dealer on for the car + destination fee + taxes + title and licensinng fees + other potential miscellaneous "doc" fees.
3. For example, I purchased my car as follows
$23,600 (price agreed upon; it included the destination fee) + state taxes + $284 for title, registration, and doc fees. My final "OTD" was a $24,900 (I paid a bit lower tax rate due to a trade in).
4. Recent quotes from dealers in Mass on the EX v6 4-door w/out Navigation are around $23,100 - $23,500 (these include destination fee).
5. You can do lots of research on the Internet to find "invoice" prices on all types of Accords. Note: the price I paid (and many people in this forum paid) for my car was about $1200 BELOW invoice as the dealer was willing to pass on some extra money to me that they were making up via "holdback" and "factory to dealer incentives". Don't get bogged down in the jargon.
6. Siinply do some research and then email some dealers for quotes; you will get emails back with quuotes from some of them and you can begin compaing prices they are offering vs. invoice prices you've researched, prices you've seen in this forum etc. Some will ask you "to come in so we can talk"; you can simply tell them that you know what you want to buy, have already test-driven, etc. and would simply, for now, like a quote from them via email.

That's it for now; I won't go on and on about this with further details . . .

Mike

kma

Thanks for the tip on calling the LA dealers! Right now, I've gotten a quote of $22,300 OTD from Riverside, and $22,500 OTD from Westminster Honda and Costa Mesa Honda. This is for the EX 4 cyl coupe, AT, cloth, spoiler. Invoice price is around $20,800, so I guess I'd be getting the car for right around there - maybe a little less.

Is it worth it to wait it out and see if it drops lower? Or are these good prices?

I'm also looking at the Acura RSX and have been quoted $22,000 OTD for the base model (again, cheaper prices in LA).

ray15

To let you know the 05 Accord LX Leather 6cyl can be gotten fro 23,373.00 from Brewster or Curry Honda in Westchester/Putnam N.Y.
Ray
What I don't like is the difference between the low trade in for the 2003 Accord EX Leather 6cyl, 13,500. AND they resell them for as much as 18,900.00. I asked them to give me 16,000.00. OR say it another way I will give them 7,500.00 and the 2003 for a 2005. No takers.
Ray

wowo5

I have been toying with an idea of getting a V6 EX with Navi for several months now. I live in central NJ. CarsDirect.com shows $25,370 as their price. Do you think I could do better by dealing with dealers? If so how much better?

enchilada

Newowner,

Congrats on your purchase. Sounds like you got a good deal on the EX V6 (leather?). Can you tell me if you closed this deal in July?

Thanks in advance.

dampfnudel

I have been toying with an idea of getting a V6 EX with Navi for several months now. I live in central NJ. CarsDirect.com shows $25,370 as their price. Do you think I could do better by dealing with dealers? If so how much better?

Try Open Road in Edison, you should get a price under $25K.

goodfella499

You know, usually I get angry when I hear people whining and moaning about the car buying experience. They go to the ends of the earth to try and find a way to shave another $50 dollars off the price of their car and then still have the gall to get on these boards and call the salesman a crook. However, you, joon, have softened my attitude a bit. You seem like a nice person. My problem is that you, and most people, are grossly misinformed. I know that you truly believe the things that you just wrote in your post, and so I will try to convey my point of view. I don't understand why car sales is viewed any differently than any other retail situation. Every single item bought and sold in the world has two prices--the price the supplier paid and the price the consumer pays. You said that forums like these level the playing field by giving the consumer the information they need in order to determine the "true price". What does that mean? When you say the "true price" what you really want to know is the price that the dealer truly paid--and then you want to pay that (or as close to it as possible) too. Well, my friend , I'd like to eat nothing but caviar fed to me by a harem of supermodels, but I don't walk around feeling like it's my right and that if anyone tries to stand in the way of that dream they're a crook. The fact is, the fairest price for everyone is right there on the window sticker. It couldn't be simpler. Most people neglect the fact that if you buy a car at FULL STICKER (God forbid) you are usually still paying less than 15% markup. Nearly every single thing that is bought through a retail establishment has a markup that is substantially higher than that--clothing, electronics, food, etc., yet rarely do people try to negotiate the price of these items--and never with the zeal and fervor that accompanies a customer's desire to "beat the car salesman". Now, I know that we in the business are far from blameless. First, we created the situation by even allowing all of you to negotiate in the first place. Saturn had the right idea. They sell all their cars at sticker and then make you all feel better about it by simply calling it "no haggle buying". Next, once we found ourselves in the situation where the customer, not the retailer, was determining the pricing of our product ( a situation that doesn't exist in any other form of retail) we made the situation worse by training our guys that if you're going to try and shaft us out of the profit we deserve then we're going try and trick you into paying more than you want. Then, we get the stigma of crooks when, in fact, we are just taking the absolute wrong approach to try and achieve what every other industry has--the power to put a price on our product, and if the customer likes the product, they pay that price. Now, the whole thing has spiraled out of control. Customers will cut a salesman's throat for 50 cents off the price of a $30,000 car--even if that salesman was nice and helpful and respectful and hard-working. The salesman learn this quickly and usually stop caring about HELPING customers and starts focusing on learning every manipulative technique they can to try and retain as much of the money in the profit margin as possible. The arms race goes on and on and on. You all learn more. We design new ways to circumvent your information. The problem that I have is that the salesman is ALWAYS portrayed as the bad guy while the customer is ALWAYS portrayed as the victim. Both sides are to blame for the way things are, and to be honest, if cars were sold like DVD players (price on the tag is the price you pay) then you'd all be shocked to see how pleasant your next car buying purchase would be.

chuckf1

The way I see it, there are two basic differences between purchasing a car and other retails sales. If, I may, let me use the purchasing of milk, as an analogy.

1. The price of the item----When I go to the grocery story to buy a gallon of milk,
I know that every other customer will pay the same price as me. The store might
change the price of milk the next day but whatever the price is, all customers will pay that same price. However at a car dealer, I have no idea what other customers will pay. So therefore as a customer I feel obliged to negotiate the best deal I can because I don't know if what I paid is on par with what others are paying.

2. The checkout process---At the grocery store, I get my gallon of milk, go the the cash register, get rung up, pay my money and leave. No muss--no fuss. However at the dealership, I decide on my vehicle, get a price, go to the finance office and then another salesman tries to sell me some more stuff, i.e. extended warranty plans, etc. I just dropped a whole lot of dough on the dealer and now they want more? C'mon.

No doubt there are other reasons why buying a car is different than any other retail experience but these are the ones that gall me the most.

goodfella499

Excellent points. Please allow me to retort.

1. The price of the item----You're absolutely right. When you go to buy a gallon of milk, you know that you are paying the same price as every one else. You know WHY? Because the retailer gives you no choice! You, and everyone else, pays "sticker" for every gallon of milk sold. So, yet again, the problem could be solved if everyone just paid sticker--which I must point out again is still a fair price since the markup percentage on a car's sticker price is less than on that oh-so-easy-to-buy gallon of milk. The thing that really irks me about this argument though (you're not the first person I've heard express it) is that even though we in the car dealership give you the opportunity to negotiate the price--an opportunity that the milk czars of the world deny you--we are villified when we negotiate back. What you're telling me is that even though you are completely happy paying 3 bucks for a gallon of milk, if you find out that the supermarket sold it to your neighbor for two fifty then all of a sudden your happy world has crumbled down. Why? It's the same 3 bucks. Do you demand that Dierbergs sell milk for the same price as the Piggly Wiggly? Why not? Your best friend might have gotten his milk cheaper there. Do you see what I'm getting at?

2. You're right again. Buying a car is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]...No doubt about it. But, would you really want spending 30k to be as easy as buying a gallon of milk? I, for one, am glad that there are a few stumbling blocks in the process that keep me from making a decision based on emotion instead of logic. Also, there's very little risk in buying milk. You get it home and it's sour, what's the big deal--you're out 3 bucks and a gallon of milk. Your car is a much bigger investment. So, as with all retail sales, the bigger the investment, the more options you have on how to protect that investment. When you buy anything from a Playstation to a plasma TV, they offer to sell you a warranty. If you finance a computer they offer you credit insurance. It's the same thing. Lastly, we at the dealership HAVE to try and sell you that stuff because the profit we make on the car after you spend 10 hours on Edmunds.com trying to figure out how to deny us profit makes it necessary for us to find other things to sell that will replace the revenue we've lost.

enchilada

Great points, chuckf1.

Goodfella, I think everyone respects a dealer's right to make a reasonable profit. However, if the deal you cite where a customer tries to shave off an extra $50 isn't worth doing, the dealer won't....correct? Like water, capitalism and competition seek their level.

I'm sure there is some percentage of people that march in and pay sticker, whether out of ignorance or oblivion. A car, like everything else, is worth exactly what someone will pay for it. A negotiation, if successful, results in a price that each party is willing to accept. This is seldom as much as the seller would like to get, or as little as the buyer would like to get it for. I don't feel bad for a consumer that goes in and pays sticker, nor do I feel bad for a dealer who has to deeply discount a car because of the nature of competition.

A deal won't occur unless there is benefit on both sides. Note that I said benefit, not necessarily profit in the colloquial sense. Just because some deals aren't as lucrative as others (which is business, my friend), there's no reason for you to throw hostilities out to those who ultimately finance your livelihood. By doing so you are forging the unsavory stereotype of the auto dealer even harder.

honda_man2

I took the plunge last week and bought the Accord in Eternal Blue from Asheboro Honda in NC . Very nice deal $17550 which includes the destination (does not include tax, title, doc fees). Very nice to deal with and a very painless transaction. My only complaint is they try to sell you insurance and long term warranties. I just want to finance the car and be done with the deal (3.9%). I ended up spending over an hour at the dealer. The car is great and I wish I could afford another one (wife's car). Did not like dealing with Crowne Honda :mad: and I warn everyone against using them (people in NC).

goodfella499

I completely understand what you are saying...and I agree. I don't like the way the system works today with the endless undercutting of prices and the parade of customers who claim to want to avoid the "car dealership circus", but then insist on driving from dealership to dealership looking for another $100 discount regardless of loyalty to any dealer or salesman. However, you are exactly right when you said that both capitalism and competition seek their level--and it appears we've reached that level. Here's MY problem. People LIKE things the way they are. They like the haggling, they like the negotiating, they like the game. Give a customer a fair price first thing, and I guarantee they take that nice gesture and slap you across the face with it and march to another dealership for some more discount--no matter how good your price was and no matter how little the other dealership beats it by. The dealerships, in turn, have to figure out how hold as much profit as the customer will allow. Yet, when the customer comes to negotiate and the salesman is better at it, we are branded as crooks, thieves, and liars. We ARE better at it. You may buy a car every two or three years and spend hours or even days planning your strategy before you walk onto the showroom floor. We spend twelve hours a day, six days a week preparing for that day. We train. We practice. We roleplay. The system is what the customer has created and yet the dealership is vilified for playing by the rules that you all set down. We'd be happy if everyone just paid the price on the car. There'd be no haggling, no tricks, no games. You all want to negotiate. Fine. Let's negotiate. Just don't complain so much when you don't necessarily win every time. Yes, there are liars and cheats in the car business--and in the medical business, and in the civil service industry, etc., but most of the time when I hear a customer complain that someone lied to them, or that they were tricked, what really happened is that the customers hear what they want to hear regardless of what is said, they don't read ANYTHING, and they make decisions based on emotion instead of logic. The dealerships exploit these things to come out of the negotiations with as much of their profit as possible. This is not wrong. This is what ANY trained negotiator does. Customers try to do the same thing. Customers lie ALL THE TIME. About the miles on their trade ins. About what other dealerships have offered. Even about whether or not they actually want to buy a car. They buy books, tapes, and pamphlets. They log onto websites like this one and talk to other people and conspire together to figure out how to squeeze every last nickel from their buying experience. Again, fine. Is it fair, though, to be angry at the salesman for doing the same thing?

savagekei05

savagekei05

For a 05 V6 Accord LX Auto for 21000 include destination not other fees, is it a good deal? YES OR NO?

enchilada

I don't get angry because a salesman is trying to negotiate - because you're correct, that's the system right now. Do I like it? Not particularly. But, I'll do something I don't like for a couple hours in order to save a few thousand bucks....and that's what we're talking about. I don't believe for a minute that you don't or won't do the same thing if presented with the option.

Did you pay full asking price for the last house you purchased? If you did, it's only because someone else was willing to do the same thing and you wanted it badly enough. The same is not true of most cars. There is generally more than ample supply, and the Brand X you're trying to sell is the exact same as the Brand X at your sister dealer 10 miles away. The car has become a commodity within your own dealer network. Unless you offer something extraordinary (value-add) on top of doing the fulfillment of the vehicle, why should there be a reason to do business with you vs.another, unless it is price? Service reputation would be a good one, but what is that worth since I can take my car to any Brand X dealer I choose, without regard to where I purchased it? Ease of transaction is another one...but one can't judge that until after the fact....

If things went to the "pay sticker" route like Saturn (VW used to do this also), you can bet the sticker price of cars would go down drastically on high-volume cars...with per unit profit reduction in kind. All the sudden, the manufacturers would be competing even more ferociously to have the lowest sticker price for comparable vehicles. Indeed, dealers would find that they could no longer add the alleged mandatory $500 "protection package" or somesuch when cars roll off the truck and expect to remain competitive. I wouldn't think that's something you'd want. The pay sticker thing used to work long ago, when different car makes were different in substantive ways! Now, for better or for worse, sweet spot cars such as the Honda Accord and Toyota Camry are considered by many to be appliances. Most drivers of one wouldn't be miserable with the other.

As for the DVD player or plasma TV analogy, I disagree. You think you want car selling to be that way - I say you're beginning to get your way and I can tell that you don't like it. Yes, you pay the price on the Best Buy tag and there's no haggling....but one can also go down the block to Fry's and perhaps get the same model for less. It's more brutal than negotiation because there's always one hopeful seller going home with a big bag of nothin'.

biker4

Slowly but surely the face to face negotiations for cars will go away. Most educated and informed car buyers don't even step into a showroom other than to sign the paperwork and drive away the car.
Assuming people can keep their emotions in check (big if for some folks) buying a car is like buying any other commodity. Virtually everything has a discount from sticker - it's called a sale. The only difference with a car is that unlike other commodities it's not some flat "10% off" kind of thing.
Anyone posting on here is swift enough to virtually never have to worry about haggling and be assured to get almost the best price possible. It's very simple - just send out a request for an Internet quote within the radius you are willing to travel and buy from the dealer that comes back with the lowest quote. Simple as that. The only thing one needs to know is the details of the quote to ensure an apples-apples comparison between the quotes.
Right now the only time one should encounter any aggravation is when trying to test drive a car cause then you have to meet the dreaded sales person. But once a car is decided upon - for an informed consumer, sale persons' tactics should no longer be an issue.

jimex

One thing that is lost through this lenghtly discussion is the car dealership will not, I repeat, will not agree to any sales price if it does not make good business sense to them...period. Regardless of what the final price is they can always reject it...no one is holding a gun to their heads....believe me, they are still making A LOT of money - aside from a case of some bad management, how many dealerships do you see go out of business....well, except for Yugo....and these owners usually have a number of vacation properties...I don't feel sorry for them...they are doing alright.

Also some retail prices are not always etched in stone....if you are looking for a plasma TV go to Sears someday and they will match the price (for the identical item) from any other store....try it, it works.

Kirstie_H

Let's please reserve this discussion specifically for exchanging pricing/purchasing experiences regarding the Honda Accord. General conversation regarding negotiation, fees, financing, or profit belongs on our Smart Shopper board.

Several members have asked questions about Accord pricing that are getting lost in this debate, so let's take it elsewhere and help members in here focus on a good Accord purchasing experience.

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions

dglozman

What should be my realistic payments to lease Accord LX (AT) with 0 down (not including taxes) for 36 month? Also, is there a difference in price between 12k miles allowance per year and 8k?

Thanks,

Dmitry

pavan_iv

I agree with you. I felt really bad when I walked out from a excellent sales person as he gave me a quote $900 more than the offer I got from a dealer ship 200 miles from my place. I told him the reason that I have to turn his offer down.

tantos

KMA,

If you want a good deal on the EX Cloth 4 Cylinder, email me. I bought a EX 4 Door Cloth for 21,800 OTD at Hardin Honda on the first of the month.
Email me at tantos@gmail.com, I'll help you out.

citychic

I'm going to post all my numbers in hopes that this will help someone!
Gillman Honda
everything except nav
straight from my contract:
cash price: $24,751.58
doc fee: $50
sales tax: $1546.97
dealers inventory tax: $57.28
total cash sales price: $26,405.83
I put $2000 down
extended warranty:$1395
official fees(title/registration, etc): 130.55
I know I didn't get the best deal, and my experience was horrible, I'm trying to cancel my extended warranty and now I regret buying the car because I wanted an Acura TSX but I thought it was too expensive. ok, 'nuff about my sob story, I just hope this helps somebody out there to tell themselves I won't pay that much!

citychic

Premier Care Warranty for Honda Accord. I'm going to cancel and two things:
they are probably going to take it off my ending balance
but do you think it's possible for them to redo my contract without it, I've only had the car for a week,
Am I crazy? Help

goodfella499

Here's the deal...If your contract is still in house at the dealership, then yes, its technically possible that they could redo your contract and lower your monthly payments to reflect the reduced balance. If your contract has already been sent to the bank (and after a week it should have been) then, no, it's not possible. Here's the thing though, even if the contract IS still in house, the chances that they'll be willing to redo it are approximately equal to the proverbial snowball in hell. Furthermore, chances are that Honda won't allow you to cancel it directly with them, they'll make you go to the dealership to take care of it. Here's the key...After you sign the cancellation form, make sure the Finance guy faxes the cancellation to the manufacturer in front of you. If you don't, the form will sit on his desk for days, or weeks, or even months, because the longer he waits, the smaller your refund is, and the smaller the chargeback he's going to take on his paycheck. Now, if I may play car salesman for a second, why do you want to cancel it? You obviously saw merit with the product to begin with, or you wouldn't have agreed to purchase it. What's changed between then and now? Hondas still have above the average cost of repair when they go into the shop. I'd say that you probably could have gotten about $150-200 lower on the warranty (depending on the term and coverage level) but nothing to lose sleep over. Have you suddenly become independently wealthy so that an unexpected $700 repair bill would no longer put a crunch in your budget? The idea of the warranty is the same as financing the car itself. The car would obviously be cheaper if you paid cash than if you paid the interest to finance--but few can afford that. It's USUALLY cheaper to pay for repairs than to buy a warranty, but given the choice of $25 bucks a month or an unexpected $850 repair bill 3 weeks before Christmas in 2008, I'd take the 25 bucks--its more expensive over the long run, but easier to budget for.

joon

Right now, I've gotten a quote of $22,300 OTD from Riverside, and $22,500 OTD from Westminster Honda and Costa Mesa Honda. This is for the EX 4 cyl coupe, AT, cloth, spoiler. Invoice price is around $20,800, so I guess I'd be getting the car for right around there - maybe a little less. Is it worth it to wait it out and see if it drops lower? Or are these good prices?

It's hard to say whether you should wait or buy now. As I mentioned before, I bought the same car that you're shopping for (except mine is a sedan versus the coupe) in May for $21,800 OTD from Riverside Honda. At the time the rumored factory-to-dealer incentive was up to $900. I hear dealers are getting or will be getting soon $1,250 incentive from Honda. Besides, the 2006 models are just around the corner. Logic would tell me that you should be able to get your car for less than what I paid back in May. But sometimes logic just doesn't prevail. It may be just a matter of how many cars a particular dealer has on stock at the moment and how many they have on order.

I hear Honda will announce in the next week or so a new incentive program, which according to some of the recent posts may not be much. Maybe the thing to do is wait until this incentive is announced and make a decision then. However, if you want to buy the 2005 model selections (color, trim) may start becoming more limited. So, I wouldn't wait too long to pull the trigger. Or you could wait for the 2006 model, which will surely cost more and should be hitting showroom sometime in August.

memphisguy

Just FYI...
Bought an '05 Accord EX (AT/Cloth, no options) in Jan from Dobbs Honda (Mendenhall) in Memphis for $20,850 OTD.
Breakout:
20,501.50 car
299.00 doc fee
44.00 business tax
5.50 temp tag
0 sales tax (military tax-exempt in Tenn)
20,850 OTD

Buying a second Accord, this time an '05 LX model (again, no options) from Wolfchase Honda in Memphis (my salesman had migrated there). Picking up later this week once I get the credit union check. The deal:
17,404 car
396 doc fee
44 bus tax
5.5 temp tag
17,800 OTD

My strategy in both cases was simple... read these forums to determine comparable prices for Accords nationwide. Go to the dealer, count how many Accords on the lot (Wolfchase has 46 LX 4drs, 29 EX 4drs, and about 40 2-doors) and make an offer based on their inventory. Amazed that they took the $17,800 offer within 5 minutes. I didn't even have to meet with 'the manager' as is customary with below-invoice offers (we've all heard the "I'm not making a dime..." song before, right?).

Isn't competition great?! For all the grumbling about how fairly salesman are or are not compensated, my salesman was DELIGHTED to sell me my third Honda in 24 months... well below invoice (about $1,800 from what I can ascertain). Would he be happy if I paid MSRP? Sure, but in exchange for his efforts and not trying to milk me (bad metaphor, I know), he gets my repeat business.

Feel free to use the above numbers in your negotiations, or if you're close by, call Wolfchase or Dobbs to see if they'll do the same. Both are bursting with Accords. Happy hunting!

- M

kma

joon -

Did your Honda EX include a spoiler? It seems most dealers are adding on about $600 for it on the OTD price.

kma

dealneeder

Is that the sales price or OTD price? If it is the sales price, I've had two quotes below that and there is one instance on the board of someone getting a car for cheaper - in all cases, though, this was in NJ. If it is OTD, I agree with the salesman.

savagekei05

are you serious? do you know how much a LX V6 should costs? car + destination = ?

adamho

Goodfella I read all of your posts and I understand where you are coming from. I'm also in sales and I deal with the same thing you do everyday and while it can be aggravating I'm not bitter about it. I find ways to sell customers on my service which works.

If you bought a new car would you not negotiate? I mean 30k is a big purchase right? I just have a hard time believing you would pay sticker on a vehicle or even much over invoice. Answer this question HONESTLY and you will understand where all of us here are coming from. Most people can't answer the tough questions honestly... can you?

Also I would like to add that almost everytime I go into a car dealership the salesman tries to rook me first. This insults my intelligence right off the bat. If they are prepared like you are saying they would know how to read me better.

goodfella499

First, we've already been gently chastised by the host of this board for having this debate in the wrong section, so I'll keep this brief.

No, when I buy a car from another dealership--which I've done twice in the last two years since we don't carry the make I wanted--I do not pay sticker. However, I also do not spend 6 hours trying to squeeze out every last dime. I simply walk in, point at the car I want, mention that I'm a finance manager at another dealership (granted, a tactic not everyone has at their disposal) and tell the salesman to tell his manager that I would like to purchase said vehicle at $500 over invoice--no matter what make or model I'm looking at. I don't try to take the holdback or the dealer cash or anything else. $500 over invoice (as long as I get to see the invoice) along with whatever subvented financing is being offered by the manufacturer is completely satisfactory to me. I want the dealer to profit, I want the salesperson to get paid, and I want the F&I guy to control the financing so that he's not working for free. Could I get lower? Definitely. Do I want to? No. The experience is always simple and fast. I got what I wanted, the dealer made profit, no one felt cheated, everybody's happy. If I can't afford to pay that price for the vehicle then I'm obviously looking at too much car.

welson

Hi, I am a new buyer and looking for Accord 4-cylinder EXL. I live in Charlotte NC and found someone in this forum bought this car around $21450 (ex Tax) in Charlotte NC . I think that is really a good price and does anybody know the dealer offering this price in this area?

Thanks a lot.

chuckf1

Here's the link from Honda's web-site to the dealers in Charlotte, where I also live, so that you can request a quote from the local Honda dealers.

http://automobiles.honda.com/tools/locator/results.asp

I recently (within the last month) a 4-cylinder EXL from Crown Honda. One of the dealers on the list, Honda of Concord, had a slightly higher price than Crown. When I followed up with Concord, they agreed to undersell Crown by $200.00. I decided to stay with Crown but you might want to try this tactic.

A word of warning---when I bought my car in June, for $21,589.00, Honda had various dealer holdbacks going on that may or may not be in effect at this time.

Good luck to you. I think you'll really enjoy this car.

welson

Appreciate your suggestion!

joon

No spoiler. In fact, no options at all other than a cargo tray.

tantos

I bought a 2005 EX Cloth Auto Graphite at Hardin Honda in Anaheim for $21,800 OTD on the first of july. Good experience if you want low pressure sales.

suzannafl

Hi Memphis Guy,

Is your LX an automatic?
What color did you get?

Thanks,
S

tn_mountaineer

Memphisguy,
Do you mind sending me the name of your salesman at Wolfchase? I've been considering buying an '05 and I'm going to see what Honda's clearance deals will be. I was going to contact the internet sales department, but if you can recommend someone, it would be much appreciated. Just get my contact info from my profile. I have been checking the area dealerships inventory online and it seems like they have a bunch of Accords.

trucks4me2

I too made a grreat deal on a '05 Accord Sedan V-6 leather no NAV. It took time, lots of reading these posts, studying Edmunds information and research to find the most up-to-date information. I then emailed several dealers in and out of my area for their quotes. Then I test drove some cars to meet the people I was dealing with and talk some more. I found out what a great deal would be before one was offered. I ended up with the car for $23540 +tax +lic= OTD $25,638.00. I am happy, the dealer is happy. It took time and persaverance but it works. I have done this two other times on a Silverado truck and Pontiac for the son. Good luck!!

Stan

Kirstie_H

have passed. Further off-topic conversation will be deleted without notice.

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions

dealneeder

His email was about the EX V6, so I'm glad to focus on that instead. DCH Academy and Open Road Honda have both given roughly 22000 quotes, in each case without destination charges. One of the posters a few pages back closed a deal with DCH at slightly below 24k, out the door. My OTD price from DCH for the Accord EX V6 was 24,324.28.

As for what it should 'cost', we can look at the numbers provided. Let's assume 22103 (the DCH number-since they've provided me with an OTD#), which does not include destination.
The base invoice on the EX V6 Sedan is 24,518. The dealer holdback is 806, so the after-holdback number is now 23,712.

The 'publicized' factory to dealer incentive is 1250 for this car, so the after-incentive number is 22462. Given how secretive Honda is with its dealer incentives (and how long it took for the 1250 to be publicized), I don't see why it isn't reasonable for this to be higher, by a couple hundred dollars if not more (particularly because of the current 'bargain' sales climate with the Big 3 US automakers).

So, our number is 22462. Drop an advertising payment in there (est. of $400 - I would be happy if someone would mention accurate ad fees) and you are down to a 22062, give or take a dollar or two.

So your base sales figure should be right around that # (which it happens to be for both DCH and Open Road - in fact, Open Road just dropped their price another hundred, which leads me to believe, as above, that the dealer incentives have gone up), assuming only 'publicized' incentives.

Add back in your dest charges, tax, title, reg, 'doc fees' and you are up to 24K+, but not by much.

Consider the sales climate now: You are a dealer with too many cars on your lot. GM sales have gone up 41% in the last month because of their 'special,' a special which Ford and Chrysler have matched for their US brands. The model year is ending very soon, and you want to push cars.

Will you try to make some big bucks on the car? Sure, why not, if you can get it (and there will be people who pay the price). My experience, though, is that, if you contact the 'internet manager' or 'department' you always get a lower price than the regular salesman; I'l leave others to speculate why that is. At the end of the day, you need to move cars off your lot.

bjmason

As an FYI to those looking to lease. Here's at least one data point to help you. (I hope I got a good deal!)

Eternal Blue Pearl 2005 Accord EX-V6 non-Nav
$1295 up front including 1st month payment, all fees, tags, etc..
No security deposit
$325/month including tax
36 months/15,000 miles

From a Boston area dealer.

andythefire

It seems to be a good deal. What is the residue value? and fees/cost per extra mile?