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When we were purchasing our Accord, the Lojack was offered at $800.00, which is a rip off. Having it done outside the dealer is less expensive, I have seen it done for $400.00, but which is a renewable, (service fee) I believe every three years, price may go up or down. Personally, we did not get it, we felt that the vehicle has the engine immobilizer, security system and we have the vehicle fully covered. We also utilize the club/steering wheel locks when we park in areas that are not the best. Also, the insurance discount was about $20.00 less a year, keep in mind many insurance companies have caps on their discounts. Bottom line, if someone really wants that car they will find a way to take it, all you can do is make it difficult for them, thieves really want a fast getaway.
Good Luck.
They say they have the car we want and say "the price will include titling, new tags, no additional equipment." they did not mention processing fee, taxes or anything else.
Selling Price: $23,033.59
Dealer Fee: $100
Tax, Title and 2-year VA tags: $782.41
OTD price: $23,916
The vehicle already had mud guards, wheel locks, door edge trim, fenderwell trim, and pin stripes, which were included in the Selling Price. However, they took off the pin stripes at my request. There were no other dealer add-ons such as rust protection or extended warranty.
There was no trade-in involved, and no financing involved - I paid cash.
The negotiating was done over email, and the sales lady came to pick me up in VA (about 40 miles away from the dealership.)
*Special thanks to musicboy for the very helpful advice.
Could you provide some info on the place you purchased it from......appreciate an email ay kohinahi[at]yahoo.com.
I'm getting a 7yr/100K for $930. Is that a fair price?
Is selection of warranty term just the estimated miles driven in 7 years??
Thanks.
There is, however, a cost to this. On cars with longer warranties, this cost is included in the car's price. Honda would rather not do this. They sell a proven, reliable car and thy figure 3/36 is sufficient.
The customers who want a longer warranty can sign up for one for an additional charge.
No free lunch...
MSRP: 26,940; Invoice:24,288; Paid:23,000 plus tax, license and doc fee 45. APR 1.9% for 36 Month. I think it's an OK deal, considering I got the color (a little rare) I want.
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I would imagine that the Edmunds or Honda quote request systems both work by sending automatic e-mails to the corresponding internet managers, which would be equivalent to sending e-mails to them directly? Any pros and cons to doing it one way or the other? Anyone send e-mails through more than one method (e.g. use the Edmunds system and send your own direct e-mails) Did you (accidentally) get more than one quote from the same dealer?
I am trying to decide what would be the most efficient use of my time, but I want to obviously do this in such a way to get a good response in terms of number of dealers responding to me, as well as in terms of good (low) quotes. Any thoughts appreciated. I plan on sending these e-mails very soon. Thanks.
I didn't use Honda, but I think Honda won't send TOO many requests for you-- it has a rule to protect the dealers' interest to limit the price competition in certain level. But it can help you find any dealer by zip code.
I haven't use Edmunds to request. But it give you a short list when you price the option package. The list is worth to try, because the dealers in the list would like to advertise that they'd compete and have the ability to compete. I believe their sales force (actually I think most internet sales do this too, we, buyers are not alone here) constantly check Edmunds as reference. The point is : big dealer/high volume dealer, I believe , could get better price from the manufacture than the rest, therefore, you have a chance to get a lower price.
Sending request to dealer individually is a good choice but time consuming. It gives you a chance to know the inventory. You don't have to leave your phone# there, but don't worry about this, very very few internet sales call you before emailing you. In my opinion, internet sales are more professional than the on-site ones.
I sent a request to a Toyota dealer, its "Contact" linked to 2 email address, then I got two quotes with 1000+ difference from one dealer. But try to avoid this, it's not professional at all, and may cause trouble.
Just wondering-many dealers like to include mud guards, in fact many cars seem to come with them already installed. Since I don't care for them in terms of their looks- was wondering how easy it is to remove or uninstall them, and if uninstalling them would leave any "holes" that shouldn't be there. I heard that installing them requires drilling new holes, so perhaps uninstalling them will reveal holes that may show? Any thoughts or comments appreciated.
2004 Accord EX-L 4cyl auto 4door $21,800 + $70 docs from a local dealer in Oklahoma. I got a quote for the same car in the Dallas area (a 4 hour drive) for $21,675 + $50 docs. I’m willing to pay a little extra to buy local. Any thoughts?
$500 over invoice isn't a great deal but it's not horrible. If you want to buy new I would offer invoice for the car with any accessories you want included for that price.
You have requested information on the New 2004 Honda Accord LX. The MSRP of the vehicle is $20590. I can offer you a special internet price of $17882. Of course youll have to add the usual fees - 3 percent tax, $398.00 Documentation Fee, $61.00 for a new tag ($45 to transfer) and plus any dealer installed accessories you choose.
How do you feel about that?
(I'm in North Carolina)
You have requested information on the New 2004 Honda Accord LX. The MSRP of the vehicle is $20590. I can offer you a special internet price of $17882. Of course youll have to add the usual fees - 3 percent tax, $398.00 Documentation Fee, $61.00 for a new tag ($45 to transfer) and plus any dealer installed accessories you choose.
How do you feel about that?
(I'm in North Carolina)
I had a relatively easy purchase at my local Honda dealer in Glendale, CA. Used the email approach and bypassed most of the traditional messy haggling. My internet salespeople were extremely flexible and had the best price I could find the LA area - although I only shopped at about 8 dealers.
Price: $25,041 + $45 doc fee + tax, title, & registration.
Financed the whole thing at 1.9% for 24 months.
They tried to sell some additional items, but they weren't too pushy about it. All in all, I can highly recommend them and I really like the car so far.
Accord EX-V6. Might buy tonight
Not a problem...we are used to this and we always know.
" Really?...wow! why didn't you just buy it there?"
"Well...um...they didn't have the right color"
Right!
You can go to the dealership and negotiate further.
You can go to the dealership and negotiate further.
Just like to say thanks for everyone who has discussed their prices because it allowed me to know that I got a decent deal which makes driving that sweet machine even funner.
-j
Now, that's a new one. Surprised they don't charge a bit of overhead at the same time!
Destination charges are a given. The dealer has to pay and pass these along. I wish they would just include them in the sticker price instead of seperating them. Once in awhile I'll get a customer who thinks they shouldn't have to pay this.
A 35.00 doc. fee is very reasnoble. That's what we charge.
Sales Tax is another charge we have no control over. It is what it is. We only collect and forward this.
And, I'm in Washington too, and your license tabs are going to be more than 78.00, I would think depnding on where you live.
But, charging for B & O taxes...amazing although these taxes are for real. We certainly pay them!
As you can see they do not have any handling fees and so far they are the lowest price in colorado that I have gotten. BTW I did take out the name because in this forum they ask not to give salesmens name and phone number...
Thank you for the reply. Our price for the 2004 Accord EX V-6 sedan automatic with navigation is $26,411 with no accessories added. We do not add any dealer handling fees, so add your sales tax to that price. Let me know if you have other questions!
Regards,
Internet Consultant
Ralph Schomp Automotive
Has anyone actually had a bad experience with a "new" car purchase that was later discovered or thought to be attributed to misuse, etc. by those that drove or sat in the car prior? Seems a little silly, but many posts mention purchases of cars with very few miles (often less than 10).
Many of you mention "make sure it wasn't a demo". Do salespeople really admit that a car was a demo? Furthermore, are demos the only cars that get taken on test drives? Is there such a thing as a dealership with no true demos, but with random test driven cars (depending on what the customer is looking for)?
Lastly, if one is willing to "gamble" on a "new" car with say, between 50-100 miles on it, should he/she try to negotiate a lower price because of the somewhat higher miles?
The reason why I ask is because I have been offered an Accord by a dealer with 67 miles on it. I haven't yet asked him if the car was a demo or not, and I am not sure whether to take it if it looks good (or pass and wait for one with lower miles), and I am also not sure whether or not I should be asking for a lower price given the somewhat higher number of miles. Thanks.