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If the car had more that about 100 miles or so, I would start to think about trying to negotiate a lower price, but I don't think 67 miles is that much of a "gamble". But if it makes you feel better, wait until there is one with fewer miles--it is YOUR money and you should do what makes YOU happy.
When the 2004s were introduced in August of last year, pre-tax prices were about $22.6K to $22.8K for an EX-L sedan 4, AT. I paid $22.7 plus TTL and that car should be about $21K to $22K now INCLUDING any doc fees.....Richard
2) Accord EX V6 6-speed w/ Navigation: $24,244 plus taxes, tags, $259 dealer fee, $490 freight, accessories, extended warranty, etc. Sheehy Honda, Alexandria VA. A friend told me he'd buy one at that price too, I asked the dealership, they said yes. Probably jokingly, but hey, if you're in the market, they might have one left at that price. ;-)
BTW, it amazes me what some dealers consider a fee which has to be passed onto the consumer, as opposed to what is considered overhead or part of doing business, which the dealer should pay. Just because a dealer has to pay something doesnt mean it should be charged to the buyer, the only exception are state or federal mandated sales tax. If a delivery fee can be passed on, then why not an insurance fee which they also must pay on every car on their lot, or a payroll fee which they have to pay the salesperson in order to sell you the car.
1) Search other dealerships online yourself
2) Tell your dealership what you want and have them find it for you. They can do a dealer trade if they have a similar car.
To the best of my knowledge there is an $800 or so holdback on the 04 Accord EX V6 coupe, and there may be an additional $1000 factory-dealer incentive.
The only customer incentive right now is the special financing which lasts through July 6th. Be warned though, that might end sooner, as the Federal Reserve just jacked up short term interest rates by a quarter point.
regards,
kyfdx
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regards,
kyfdx
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From the Edmunds price this is below invoice.
I don't think that I can pass it up...
Ron
I was told that the recall does not apply to recently built Accords, at least those built since January approximately (check with Honda or your dealer for details). I am considering a V6 but I am wondering how much of a deal this recall is, and whether the worst is yet to come? Or optimistically, the worst is over, and Honda nipped this in "the bud"?
Anybody seriously considering changing their mind for a 4 cylinder instead, just because of the recall?
There was a big deal made about the previous transmission problems, but they only affected 2% or less of the cars... AND, Honda warranted any of the affected cars for up to 100K miles on the tranmission. Any car may have problems, but Honda has shown in the past that they will step up and fix them. I wouldn't base my engine choice on this one recall.
regards,
kyfdx
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I used the technique he suggested to me, which was to send a large number of dealerships requests for new car bids. I'll admit, I got bids from dealers that were not too great, and that I hardly even glanced at. But in the end, I had one dealer willing to give me the car for $17317. He was in Baltimore, which is about an hours drive. I figured i'd try to match it locally before forcing myself to drive out there, so I went to a local dealer on Rockville Pike, right outside of DC.
So when I walked in, I talked to one guy and told him what I wanted. He gave me some numbers that weren't any good. Something like $100 over invoice or something. I then told him I had a better quote and he asked what it was. I didn't rightaway tell him my number, just told him that it was better and I wanted to see what he could do for me first. I told him my quote was closer to $17000, but thats all I told him.
He then brought out his manager who came to tell me that he couldn't match $17000. Keep in mind, the only reason the manager came out personally so quickly was bacause I low-balled and the manager was slightly shocked at the number I gave him ($17000). So then I told him the exact number was $17317 and he did some calculations and made himself look like he was cooking up something. He cut another hundred bucks and gave me $17217.
I would have taken that and number, but then I told him the other dealer was also giving me mud guards, so if he wanted to match the offer he would have to throw those in as well. After a little pressure, he relented and threw it in. So here's how it broke down:
$17212.00 (somehow th 7 looked like a 2 on paper and I saved another 5 bucks)
$490.00 freight
$100.00 processing
---------
$17802.00
$890.10 5% MD salestax
$126.00 tags
---------
$18818.10 driveout
The dealer said he wasn't making money on the car, and that I was getting it for net. With the mudguards included, he was actually losing money on the deal. What the dealer was getting was allocation from Honda, or something like that. They've got their own little complicated economy within the dealership. And its not like mudguards actually cost them $104 bucks, so its not like they're losing on that.
The deal and settlement on the price of the car took me all of 15 minutes once I threw the quote I had in hand at him. He didn't ask me for proof that I had actually recieved this quote, though I could have eaisly produced it if he wanted.
Anyways, that's my story.
Edge
> regarding this car.
You are very welcome. Congratulations on your deal of $17802.00 (before TT&L.) It's $50 better than I was able to do last January from a MD dealer on the same vehicle.
> I used the technique he suggested to me, which was to
> send a large number of dealerships requests for new car bids...
> I figured i'd try to match it locally before forcing myself to
> drive out there, so I went to a local dealer.
That was exactly the right thing to do. The only thing I would have done differently is to call the local dealership and try to get the price match by phone before I ventured out to their business and potentially waste my time. Fortunately a ready, willing and knowledgeable buyer present at a dealership that had the vehicle in stock motivated them to beat the low price deal you were able to uncover with your email blast.
> The dealer said he wasn't making money on the car, and
> that I was getting it for net. With the mudguards
> included, he was actually losing money on the deal.
It's a very good deal but *IF* the well rumored Honda Manufacturer to Dealer Incentive is really out there then they made a little money so I wouldn't feel too bad for them.
> What the dealer was getting was allocation from Honda,
> or something like that.
It's probably true that he was willing to sell so low for dealer allocation purposes as well.
Again, Congratulations.
I'm wondering, did you consider the EX as opposed to the LX w/side airbags? I am wondering whether the extra equipment is worth the bump in price, I don't really want the sunroof, but it has a bunch of other stuff (better brakes, security system, alloy wheels, etc)....
The thing I did find though is, you don't always need proof of having a good quote in hand. For instance, if I hadn't done all the work I did to get quotes and such, I could have just taken a good price that someone on this forum payed. I could have walked in and told the dealer that I have this quote in hand, and he would have cut to the chase and made me a fast offer to match or beat it. I was slightly surprised at how fast he came up with a better number. If one dealer doesn't want to give it to you without proof, you could likely take it to another dealer. It's quite pleasing when the negotiation segment lasts for less than 15 minutes.
Was the local dealer who made you the deal among those whom you used the email blast? Did you spend a lot of time on the email blast thing? How many round of bids before the final one? I will try to use the same technique to buy a EX V6 SD in about half a month.
Thanks to you and music boy for the info.
accordlover
For what it's worth, the dealer that quoted $23,333 said Honda is taking $1000 off this model and $500 off the four door version. Also said the quote was good through the July 4th for sure and they expect to hear Monday if it will be extended beyond that.
Raptor: $23,333? That's about a grand less than what I paid, and mine didn't have the cargo tray protection. Go for it.
I pick it up this afternoon
They offered me Honda Care 7yr/100k for 732.00
In May I paid $22325 OTD (incl 7% tax -- 20319 before TTL) for an i4 5-spd EX-L coupe, so that looks like a fantastic price for the 6-spd.
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Meanwhile two dealers closer to me have the 6-speed in stock (according to their web site inventory) but I haven't heard back from them yet. I want to hear what they have to offer before I call the first one back and see what that dealer added on.
The remaining three dealerships don't have any 6-speeds in stock. Guess the car moves pretty well.
I saw some forum traffic about transmission problems with the V-6 accord but it appears to be limited to the automatic transmission. Can anybody confirm that?
I wanted to add on the burlwood interior and foglights which bumped the price to $23,559. This also included fenderwell guards, mud guards, door guards, wheel locks, stripes, and $490 for freight. Does not includes taxes, tags, etc. but I did get them to also waive the $65 processing fee.
Was originally told the invoice price was $24,200 (without the add-ons) and the MSRP with all the add-ons and freight ended up being $27,450.
I received a 3.69% five year loan from Pentagon Federal Credit Union in Virginia (Honda was offering 3.9%). A military credit union that I did not belong to but could join by paying a $20 membership fee and opening a savings account for $5. I locked in the rate with the lender by giving them the VIN# as I threatened the lender to go with the Honda financing if Greenspan raised the rates that afternoon. Greenspan raised the rates that day and the Lender ended up raising their 5 year car loan rate to 3.9%. Still a great rate when I think about my local bank's rate is 7.0%.
I understand that Honda's 3.9% (five year loan) financing ends July 6th. If that is the case, check out Pentagon Federal as it was hassle free over the phone (or try the website at www.penfed.org) and I received a blank check in the mail the next day.
Part of the reason I got what I think is a good deal was that if was the end of the month. When the sales person told me her manager approved waiving the processing fee she said incredulously under her breath "What we won't do at the end of the month."
> need proof of having a good quote in hand.
I think that it is always possible to bluff a salesperson with a reasonable low quote to price match. In this day and age of email, requesting proof of an offer that could easily be "made-up" doesn't really prove much.
You can always go from dealer to dealer with a bluff but that could take a lot of time depending on where one lives and how many dealers are available to you.
> if I hadn't done all the work I did to get quotes
> and such, I could have just taken a good price that
> someone on this forum payed. I could have walked in
> and told the dealer that I have this quote in hand,
> and he would have cut to the chase and made me a fast
> offer to match or beat it.
As sales conditions are constantly in a state of flux in different parts of the country as well as within any given sales area the key to getting a rock-bottom price on a new vehicle, in my opinion, is not just by knowing which dealer gave the lowest price in any specific deal or by bluff lowball price matching. Instead it's important for you do the work necessary (like you did) to set up a competitive selling situation amongst dealers forcing them to agressively fight for your business.
You achieved this by using the email/Fax attack/blast method spending the time necessary to compile many dealer Internet department email addresses and fax numbers and then sending them a New Car Bid Request form.
The benefits are that you likely uncovered a number of low price dealers to negotiate with as well as one of the lowest prices available in your area for the specific vehicle you desired (then using that knowledge of the lowest price received to negotiate an even lower price.)
Is California different or because I was talking to people in the San Francisco area, they just do not have experience with selling to out of state buyers????
If anyone knows about California tax please let me know. Thanks Stacey Burke
CA is a popular place for out of state Mercedes purchases because of the low prices there - they use this method.
Hope this helps.
What do you think? Good Deal?
$22,900 Base
311 Mud guard, wheel lock, door guards pkg
299 Dealer Process Fee
490 Freight
760 Tax
60 Tags
$24,820 Total
1.9% finance for 3 years.
im in Canada - I got quoted Invoice plus $500, $0 admin, $75 Air Tax, $100 Air Conditioning Surcharce, $1100 PDI, Plus sales tax.
Accord 4 Cylinder EX-L with leather, 5 speed
Total = $28,410 CAD plus 15% Sales Tax...total = $32671.50
Went through Car Cost Canada. I think they serve the states too. I paid $50 CAD for 2 cars, (Solara and Accord) and they call all the dealers within a radius (that you specify) of the closest major city to where you live. it took about 1 day.
Does anyone know if I can negotiate the price of a spoiler and fog lights if I want them added on? Do dealers usually negotiate the rrices of accessories?
Thanks!
Wayne
Also interested in buying the immobilizer theft deterrent security system. Do you know how much people are paying for this? I was quoted $800.
Also interested in buying the immobilizer theft deterrent security system. Do you know how much people are paying for this? I was quoted $800.
Anyway, the very best price I got after using the email attach that was written out here was 26441 in Denver, CO. I asked for prices from several states and California was by far the best. Even with Flying out and paying for one night in a motel, gas I will be about $900 ahead. BTW I live about 900 miles away from where I will purchase the car. So on the drive back I should have quite a good test drive to learn a lot about my new car.
I first e-mailed multiple dealers for quotes and then called the sales managers that had sent me the better quotes to get further information and see if they could beat the current lowest price. After a few rounds of calls I had narrowed it down to a local dealer and a dealer 4 hours away. The local dealer was a couple a hundred dollars higher, but I was unable to get a price in writing from the non-local dealer. They kept telling me they would make it worth my while, which immediately made me suspicious. So I went with the local dealer, which was no hassle and we finished the entire deal in less than one hour (including the finance guy).
Anyway here are the numbers
$21600.00
$ 100.00 processing
---------
$21700.00 plus TT&L
Most dealers gave me a quote between $20,100 and $20,500. Finally I paid $19,550 + TTL. 2.9% APR for 4 years. I also purchased 6 year 100,000 mile extended warranty for $1,000. I think it is OK since I am in Southern California where dealers fight each other.
PS: I needed it badly so it was all settled within 24 hours.
This is my first purchase and I'm surprised how simple it was.