so, what do you think, Shifty? Willing to take one for the team?
The big question is whether you trust putting it in your car in the first place. If it really is 90% kerosene and you only use, what was it?, an oz. per tank? Then.... I don't know, you decide.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
But I think you are forgetting that he has used it (is using it) and he has witnessed results (putting aside for a minute whether or not they are real). Trying to convince him otherwise is akin to trying to convince a UFO witness that what they saw was a weather baloon. The answer is "I KNOW what I saw."
I think, even if 5 others were to try it and get NO results, you would still be hard pressed to convince him that he didn't get a 7 mpg improvement as a result of the miracle juice.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
thank you very much but I will respectfully decline based on the impossibility of the claims and the research done on the patents. But I can't see any harm to be done if someone wants to try it and report back. Of course, criteria for the test would be:
1. You must fill up to the same level on the fuel gauge (or stop at the first "click" of the pump shut-off).
2. You must fill at the same pump or close to the same pump, using the same brand of fuel. This will eliminate variation in ground level and variations in fuel blends.
3. You must calculate fuel mileage as an average for at least 4-5 tankfuls, varying city/hwy mileage.
4. Ideally, you should have a good prior record of your car's fuel mileage over the last 5,000 miles or so.
5. Drive like you drive. Forget you are doing a test. In fact, drive a bit harder--after all, with a 35% mileage gain you can afford to put your foot in it and still come out way ahead, right? :P
6. DON'T do a tune up or add air to tires etc during the test. Adding air can bump fuel mileage 3-4% and a good tune up could add 10% easy. Doing other things to a car can really skew the test results.
My prediction. The increase in fuel mileage will be zero, or within a statistical variation of 1 mpg, if you run the test as I suggest.
I don't mind testing it out, I mean I am going to use two bottles of it anyway. I have good records of my mileage and fuel consumption I keep for tax purposes so a gas mileage baseline is already established. Don't get me wrong, I hope this works, but am skeptical to say the least. I am going to follow the suggestions Mr_Shiftright listed to make sure it is accurate as well. It will take me about 2 months to run enough tanks through my Cavalier to get a good average though. Anyone intrested in the results? I'll post them when I am done if you want.
I recently read an interesting artical in the latest issue of Car and Driver regarding "Top Tier" I've been going to the closet station in my area Exxon, and was surprised it's not on the list of "Top Tier Fuels"
There are a couple of brands at the bottom of the toptier list that I don't recognize. Is Entec a brand or a group of stations under one brand? For example the local Walmart has Murphy station in front. Is that one of the top tier stations?
After reading this post, I checked out the Top Tier web site and did a little studying of my own. This seems to me to be something of a non-issue (at least with name brand fuels), however, just to be on the safe side, and since the only "TOP TIER" blessed fuel company that has even a single station within 100 miles of my home is Shell (the closest being nearly 20 miles), I decided to drop a note to ExxonMobil (whose stations are so numerous around here that it's hard to run out of gas without being able to roll up to the pump). The following is the response:
"Mr. Shipo,
Your email was forwarded to me for response.
ExxonMobil has been providing detergent additized gasolines since the 1950s and we are proud of our historical leadership in this area. In fact, back in 1985, ExxonMobil pioneered gasolines that cleaned up fuel injector deposits. All of our current gasolines are formulated to meet stringent performance standards and exceed all industry and government specifications for detergency. All Exxon and Mobil gasolines pass the performance criteria of the TOP TIER program.
I have to agree with your criteria Mr. Shiftright...and I'm sure you are calculating all the variations as well. Pumping up the tires might add extra performance unrelating to the product, but as well, the tire pressure would have to remain constant during the course of the test. If they deflate by a few pounds, that would minimize the results, worst case would be to even out in effect. But I would say the same as far as driving more, especially if you know the mileage stats in advance. I'm confident that he will see "some" measure of results.
I didn't get a response when I offered to test it so I don't think anyone is interested in the results. I'll e-mail you the results if you want, but I am not going to post it in the forum if folks aren't interested. I own an onsite computer repair business and am using three vehicles out of my fleet to do the tests. This should ensure reults that are usable and not just another meaningless test. These are my directions to my employees. ----------------------------------- Three different vehicles will be used to evaluate the fuel additive. All vehicle operators must adhere to the requirements below or the results for that vehicle will not be used at the end of the evaluation period. Ensure you annotate mileages to the nearest tenth of a mile and fuel to the nearest tenth of a gallon. No guessing or estimating, accuracy is important for a good evaluation. Ensure highway miles are about the same for the baseline and additive evaluations. During the test period stay out of the mountains, altitude will affect gas mileage. If you have a job in the mountains take a van. They are not being used in the test. Then get right back in your normal vehicle. Drive safe guys!!!
1. Tune up vehicle and air up all tires prior to the beginning of the tests. None of this can change during the mileage tests.
2. Start with a baseline running through four tanks of fuel not using the fuel additive and recording the results on the sheet below.
a. When filling the tank stop at the first "click" of the pump shut-off. (DO NOT cap off.) b. Fill up at the same pump using the same brand and octane fuel every time. c. Drive normal at all times, no rapid acceleration while establishing the baseline.
3. Start additive evaluation running through four tanks with a ratio of 2 ounces of additive per 10 gallons of fuel. This must be as exact as possible. (Measure it out, don’t guess.)
a. When filling the tank stop at the first "click" of the pump shut-off. (DO NOT cap off.) b. Fill up at the same pump using the same brand and octane fuel every time. c. Do not change driving habits. If anything, put your foot in it a little more.
4. Continue additive evaluation running through four tanks with a ratio of 1 ounce of additive per 10 gallons of fuel. This must be as exact as possible. (Measure it out, don’t guess.)
a. When filling the tank stop at the first "click" of the pump shut-off. (DO NOT cap off.) b. Fill up at the same pump using the same brand and octane fuel every time. c. Do not change driving habits. If anything, put your foot in it a little more.
I had to buy another bottle from my neighbor to get three vehicles in the test, but it is only $14 and I want to make sure I get a good sampling.
Don't forget to annotate the expenses as well. This product is not only for improving your mileage and performance, but the extent of your "budget" as well. Have them document per/gallon price and how many gallons are per each vehicle.....that should be the one of two things you will notice FIRST. Reduction in overall costs (down 10-60%) AND mileage increase...and Yes I am interested. Good luck.
Well, no offense, jah2os, but you are brand new to the forums and just happened to show up for this one discussion, and just happen to have posted in no other discussion but this one. SO, at this point, I don't really trust your "analysis." Like i said, nothing personal, its just the way of the world.
Good snake oil salesmen always had a plant in the audience to serve as an "unbiased and satisfied customer."
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Gbrozen – I agree. No argument here. I would feel the same way. I am new to this forum and only found it trying to find information on this product. Now that I found it I think, I’ll hang around for a while. I have read into several of the threads and some stuff is pretty interesting. I only post when I have something to say so haven’t posted anywhere, but here. Anyway, I am not sure if I am going to run the test now. I needed 2 more bottles of the stuff to have enough to do the test with three vehicles. When went to the web site to order it there was an additional charge added onto it which made the price of the product about $25 each (instead of the advertised price). It didn’t specify what the charge was for, and I consider that bad business. Even if it was shipping they should have posted the charge as that and maybe set a more realistic shipping price. I have a business and there are no hidden charges of any kind. The customer knows their entire cost before we start the job. Needless to say I emptied my cart and backed out of the site. If the stuff works it may be worth $25 a bottle, but their advertising should make it clear what the price is up front. They lost me as a possible customer due to poor business practice. I am going to run the stuff I have through my car and let you know what happens if you want, but I won’t buy any more of it. Bye for now, BTW great to meet ya’ all.
I do have something you folks may be able to help me with. Excuse any errors in terminology, but I am not a mechanic and don’t claim to be. I have a 1986 Cavalier Z24 with just about 151,000 miles on the odometer. I rebuilt the 2.8 (now about 3.1) Liter engine 60,000 miles ago. It has the old Multi Port Fuel Injection system.
This car has always had pretty decent power until about a month ago. It started hesitating when accelerating and doesn’t have the mid RPM range power it used to have. While looking for the possible problem I found the air filter duct had come loose between the air filter box and the throttle body (pumping dirt right into the engine). How long it was like this I don’t know. I didn't notice it because of the vacume hoses and electrical wiring on top of it in the engine compartment. The onboard computer does not report any problems. My buddy hooked his machine up to it and nothing was reported.
I removed everything including the throttle body and cleaned them up real good then reinstalled them with a new air filter. It still ran the same so I started it and ran carburetor cleaner through the air intake system trying to clean out the plenum. I should have removed and cleaned it too, but was trying to find an easy way out.
I’ve tried all kinds of fuel additives (from cheap to very expensive) to get it running properly. Nothing has worked!!! Does anyone have any suggestions, other than tearing the engine apart, to clean it up? If I have to I will, but my spare time is limited and I was hoping to avoid a time consuming project. Thanks in advance for your help.
Had it's share of problems. I would just find a good shop to take a look at it. After almost 20 years and a ton of miles I wouldn't invest many dollars.
Greetings, here in manila we are using a product that is' water based' and is proved to be very effective in decarbonizing both gasoline and diesel engine, it has been in the market for a couple of months and its getting a long way, it really helps in our governments drive on the "clean air act" . Why not try SPEEDMETAL Carbon-Ridding accelerator and cleaner, it's a great product.
I don't have any idea what kind of fuel quality you folks get in Manila, however, over here in North America I've never seen any compelling evidence to suggest that we need to do anything regarding carbon remediation. One of our cars will be hitting 100,000 miles later this year and it is getting the best fuel economy it has ever gotten, it still passes the annual emissions checks with flying colors, and it has never had so much as small taste of any snake oil-[non-permissible content removed]-panacea-[non-permissible content removed]-miracle product.
well, GM had nasty injector coil windings issues in the early 90s. shouldn't think any enamel that withstands any of the usual oxygenates would blanch at E85 (or E95 diesel.)
wonder if it's a QC issue rather than a design one.
looks to me like another industry promotional group. you meet the standards, you are invited to become a member and pony up some cash. don't do it, you don't get listed. there is surely no mystery here to an old advertising/broadcaster/newsguy who worked in those fields. it's just like the "snake... another white meat" or "got sludge?" people. if you haven't seen their snappy ads, nobody near you is paying in to promote the wonders of bullsnake for breakfast.
I can't recall this happening before...but I just filled up my tank with Shell gasoline, which i never buy because it's not convenient and costs too much, and damn if my car didn't run better almost instantly. I wonder what that's about? Idles smoother and I can easily take off in 2nd gear without bogging. Maybe a co-incidence with an injector cleaning itself or something.
Geez, imagine if I had simultaneously added some "Maxo-Power" miracle additive--I'd be raving about it.
I'm interested to know what you guys think about BP gas/fuel. Their commercial claims regarding new ways of energy researching are interesting....do you guys know anything about that and do you agree in anyway. I'm curious, if they seem to be on the ball before national mandates are on the table, why haven't they become a large primary company nationwide for recommended usage?...just curious.
BP is very big. I am sure they are the largest retailer of gas on the West Coast. You can get ARCO/BP gas from the Mexican border to Canada. BP is the only oil company in CA selling Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD). Most ARCO stations that sell diesel have the new mandated fuel. I use it in my new Passat TDI and it is very clean, high cetane. No smell or smoke.
Oh, you were being serious? I thought I heard you talking with your tongue in cheek!
I've never been able to detect the slightest difference between brands except for Arco. Arco gummed up our boat and I didn't believe the mechanic until the guy who fixed my lawn mower asked me if I had used Arco in it.
even better, tape the $60 to the fuel line, and it saves you the trouble of going to Snakey Sam's to pick the GasWart up. all the molecules line up with the serial number of the bills, don't'cha know, then, ya sure ya betcha Sven.
if you want a trial, send me your $60, and I will tell you I taped it to my fuel line, and how things went
My current (no pun intended) favorite is the "electronic chip" that looks to be about the size of a nickel, with all the appropriate circuit board etching---and you glue it to the OUTSIDE of your gas tank!
those guys don't really say anything in their ads. a bunch of barely-frumpy "plain ol' folks" in front of the camera obviously reading sorta-questions that oil company PR has ground out for the ads. "Environment or my car? I like daisies, but I can't live without my car" is almost exactly what one widely-played ad asks. the "response" is that BP does lots of environmental stuff. and all of it is a distant decimal point in their overall budget. they make a few million dollars worth of solar panels a year, for instance, unless they have shut the division down lately.
if BP was producing regenerative braking components for hybrid cars, or spending a billion dollars a year in a combine with GM and D/C on the hybrid, I'd buy their pitch.
they are just dabbling in any alternative technology to oil burning so they know the technology, and can gear up to commercial if any of them take off. far as I can see, that's their "beyond petroleum" stance.
there's also a little plastic clip-around that holds a couple little earphone magnets. and yes, you guessed it, goes around the fuel line to align the gas molecules. funny how all this stuff is around sixty bucks, sort of a "magic number" at which the desperate will still grab, and the suckers won't raise hob about.
folks, here's something you didn't know. there is a magnet in each and every fuel injector ever made. all the fuel has to flow around these magnets (also called injector pintles) to get into the cylinder. even if it worked, which it never did on carbed cars, it's already there, and you pay a hundred bucks or more for each one already.
C'mon, you KNOW we have the capabilities these days of doing so much more for our cars....why do you think they're not. It's too easy. Religious, gnostic or atheist ---you have to agree that this world is about 'money' in their pockets. I had a discussion with two gentleman I went to church with one time who were loyal Ford owners. I was talking about ways to improve mileage in engines and performance and all that, and they told me that for years Ford knew exactly what they were doing and what they were making....the reason they don't invest in the technology that is ALREADY there is because...well just that....it's an investment that will cost them too much....then they have to high-price their vehicles....it wouldn't flow with economy at all. I'm sure that the same for all industries.
I think BP is doing as much as any of the other oil companies for our environment. They are the only one producing and selling ULSD a year ahead of the mandate. As far as the solar panels BP inherited that technology when they bought ARCO.
not to dump on BP alone, all of these guys are in the business of getting rid of marginal technologies that impede their wholly-controlled business of keeping us hooked on oil. anything that gets some press, they push the government to study it to death in consultation with, surprise, the oil companies.
government is just another captive division of big oil, inc.
or does anybody else have any ideas why hydrogen tests are limited to a few cars in upstate new york, hybrids are produced in whopping numbers like 7 thousand a year at the most busy of the lines at toyota, and no matter how many high school and college teams build little microcars that go forever across the US on solar power, it never gets past these little competitions?
agrifuels like E85 are the only chink in their armor.
agrifuels like E85 are the only chink in their armor
Biodiesel is a much more usable fuel. E85 engines are very inefficient. You lose about 20% mileage with E85. It is still more costly to produce ethanol than it is worth. I don't see any gain except for ADM. That is the agricultural equivelant. to Exxon or BP.
Solar has never proven cost effective. PV cells cost more to produce than they generate in their lifecycle. Ask anyone that has had them for 5-10 years on their home.
July 5: Solar Energy Research Institute begins official operation, in Golden, Colorado, USA. First director is Dr. Paul Rappaport (1977-1979). November: Atlantic Richfield purchases Bill Yerkes' company Solar Technology International. ARCO Solar builds world's largest PV manufacturing facility, in Camarillo, California. 1980: ARCO Solar is the first company to produce more than 1 MW of PV modules in one year.
ARCO was earlier than Amoco in the history of Solar PV Cell production. Both were swallowed up by BP. Making BP the largest producer of solar cells. I guess they have all the bases covered.
thought sure it was amoco, thanks for the information.
selected holiday and all cenex stations have e85 here in mn, with a random few others, and most cenex have biodiesel of probably 20 percent soy oil.
e85 at the present time is still a little bit of a subsidy to farmers, but on doubling to 8 billion gallons a year and the wider distribution, should pretty much clear that issue. if the additional plants use biomass instead of feed corn for their input, the ethanol industry should be a net gainer for energy instead of a slight loss. one fact to remember, however, is that it's domestic fuel, at least 85% of it is. precious few suppliers can prove it. this alone counts for something these parlous days of murder and intrigue in the net exporting nations.
PV cells may not be cost effective....but just think of the end result if we integrated our energy resources to purely solar or wind or water. Of course, you would have to be foolish to think it's that easy, and I'm no tree hugger, but that would reduce a lot of enviromental problems...which is a good thing that Bush is pushing the hydrogen cell power vehicle production....and hopefully the next president. Anything that's going to aid this world in one way or another is always a good thing...but again, it's never that easy........
Over the weekend, my buddy was telling me that his dealer recommends adding a BG oil conditioner to the oil at 30K, 45K, 60K, and every oil change after 60K. He said his dealer told him the BG stuff conditions gaskets, helps get rid of sludge (if there is any), blah, blah, blah...
My question is - Is this stuff snake oil, or is it a pretty proven product? Just curious if any mechanics on this board have an opinion about this stugg.
BG products are good but the real question is: why do you need an "oil conditioner"? As for the dealer's claims, how on earth can something in a can get rid of sludge, which is contaminated oil that has chemically changed into something else (permanently). It makes no sense. Besides all that, modern oils have everything you need. Sounds like a little "profit maker" for the dealer with dubious benefit to the buyer.
"how on earth can something in a can get rid of sludge, which is contaminated oil that has chemically changed into something else (permanently)."
That's what I was thinking when my buddy told me about this - otherwise, why would the past sludge issues of some of the manufacturers been such a big deal if all the dealer had to do was dump an additive in with the oil? I also wondered how the conditioner was able to "condition" the gaskets and prevent leaks. Does this stuff supposedly mix in with the oil - or does it stay as a seperate chemical down inside the pan and go seeking out the rubber gaskets? Just seemed like a little too much of a "tell the customer it does this so they will feel good about spending the $ on this."
I learned the method the dealers use to correct sludging problems such as what causes a lifter to click. My salesman and I were talking when a car drove by with a lifter noise. I commented something about a cleaner to get ride of the oil deposits from not changing it. He said just change the oil at 1000 miles a couple of times and it'll be gone. That's what they do when they get one on trade. They use it as a loaner and let the new oil dissolve the sludge.
I wasn't sure about this but ill decide to ask anyways hoping someone can answer my question about the BG44K. I've heard that when pouring this stuff into a full tank of gas, you should run your fuel down as low as possible within 2 days or what not and then refilling. To me that seems reasonable to do but that's vigorous driving. Hoping to get the most gain out of this stuff, my question is that, "Can i still pour this stuff in and still drive normally and not vigorously?"
Comments
The big question is whether you trust putting it in your car in the first place. If it really is 90% kerosene and you only use, what was it?, an oz. per tank? Then.... I don't know, you decide.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You are, indeed being polite and civil in these discussions. You are also, outgunned by some very intellegent people with many years of experience.
And, you simply aren't listening or you are so caught up in the propaganda of this miracle product that you have blocked out the facts here.
Do you have any idea how many of these "Johnny Come Lately" schemes have come and gone over the years?
Seriously, you need to come to grips with reality here and listen to the experts that have tried to show you the real facts.
I think, even if 5 others were to try it and get NO results, you would still be hard pressed to convince him that he didn't get a 7 mpg improvement as a result of the miracle juice.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
1. You must fill up to the same level on the fuel gauge (or stop at the first "click" of the pump shut-off).
2. You must fill at the same pump or close to the same pump, using the same brand of fuel. This will eliminate variation in ground level and variations in fuel blends.
3. You must calculate fuel mileage as an average for at least 4-5 tankfuls, varying city/hwy mileage.
4. Ideally, you should have a good prior record of your car's fuel mileage over the last 5,000 miles or so.
5. Drive like you drive. Forget you are doing a test. In fact, drive a bit harder--after all, with a 35% mileage gain you can afford to put your foot in it and still come out way ahead, right? :P
6. DON'T do a tune up or add air to tires etc during the test. Adding air can bump fuel mileage 3-4% and a good tune up could add 10% easy. Doing other things to a car can really skew the test results.
My prediction. The increase in fuel mileage will be zero, or within a statistical variation of 1 mpg, if you run the test as I suggest.
Okay get out there and prove me wrong
http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=27&article_id=9752&page_number=1
http://www.toptiergas.com/
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
This topic has come up before and so I think that it is appropriate that I repost what I posted 156 posts back:
shipo, "Fuel and Oil Additives" #316, 16 Mar 2005 12:06 pm
After reading this post, I checked out the Top Tier web site and did a little studying of my own. This seems to me to be something of a non-issue (at least with name brand fuels), however, just to be on the safe side, and since the only "TOP TIER" blessed fuel company that has even a single station within 100 miles of my home is Shell (the closest being nearly 20 miles), I decided to drop a note to ExxonMobil (whose stations are so numerous around here that it's hard to run out of gas without being able to roll up to the pump). The following is the response:
"Mr. Shipo,
Your email was forwarded to me for response.
ExxonMobil has been providing detergent additized gasolines since the 1950s and we are proud of our historical leadership in this area. In fact, back in 1985, ExxonMobil pioneered gasolines that cleaned up fuel injector deposits. All of our current gasolines are formulated to meet stringent performance standards and exceed all industry and government specifications for detergency. All Exxon and Mobil gasolines pass the performance criteria of the TOP TIER program.
Thank you for contacting ExxonMobil.
Jacqueline Levesque
Exxon Mobil Corporation"
Best Regards,
Shipo
-----------------------------------
Three different vehicles will be used to evaluate the fuel additive. All vehicle operators must adhere to the requirements below or the results for that vehicle will not be used at the end of the evaluation period. Ensure you annotate mileages to the nearest tenth of a mile and fuel to the nearest tenth of a gallon. No guessing or estimating, accuracy is important for a good evaluation. Ensure highway miles are about the same for the baseline and additive evaluations. During the test period stay out of the mountains, altitude will affect gas mileage. If you have a job in the mountains take a van. They are not being used in the test. Then get right back in your normal vehicle. Drive safe guys!!!
1. Tune up vehicle and air up all tires prior to the beginning of the tests. None of this can change during the mileage tests.
2. Start with a baseline running through four tanks of fuel not using the fuel additive and recording the results on the sheet below.
a. When filling the tank stop at the first "click" of the pump shut-off. (DO NOT cap off.)
b. Fill up at the same pump using the same brand and octane fuel every time.
c. Drive normal at all times, no rapid acceleration while establishing the baseline.
3. Start additive evaluation running through four tanks with a ratio of 2 ounces of additive per 10 gallons of fuel. This must be as exact as possible. (Measure it out, don’t guess.)
a. When filling the tank stop at the first "click" of the pump shut-off. (DO NOT cap off.)
b. Fill up at the same pump using the same brand and octane fuel every time.
c. Do not change driving habits. If anything, put your foot in it a little more.
4. Continue additive evaluation running through four tanks with a ratio of 1 ounce of additive per 10 gallons of fuel. This must be as exact as possible. (Measure it out, don’t guess.)
a. When filling the tank stop at the first "click" of the pump shut-off. (DO NOT cap off.)
b. Fill up at the same pump using the same brand and octane fuel every time.
c. Do not change driving habits. If anything, put your foot in it a little more.
I had to buy another bottle from my neighbor to get three vehicles in the test, but it is only $14 and I want to make sure I get a good sampling.
Good snake oil salesmen always had a plant in the audience to serve as an "unbiased and satisfied customer."
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
good luck.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
This car has always had pretty decent power until about a month ago. It started hesitating when accelerating and doesn’t have the mid RPM range power it used to have. While looking for the possible problem I found the air filter duct had come loose between the air filter box and the throttle body (pumping dirt right into the engine). How long it was like this I don’t know. I didn't notice it because of the vacume hoses and electrical wiring on top of it in the engine compartment. The onboard computer does not report any problems. My buddy hooked his machine up to it and nothing was reported.
I removed everything including the throttle body and cleaned them up real good then reinstalled them with a new air filter. It still ran the same so I started it and ran carburetor cleaner through the air intake system trying to clean out the plenum. I should have removed and cleaned it too, but was trying to find an easy way out.
I’ve tried all kinds of fuel additives (from cheap to very expensive) to get it running properly. Nothing has worked!!! Does anyone have any suggestions, other than tearing the engine apart, to clean it up? If I have to I will, but my spare time is limited and I was hoping to avoid a time consuming project. Thanks in advance for your help.
Best Regards,
Shipo
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
wonder if it's a QC issue rather than a design one.
Geez, imagine if I had simultaneously added some "Maxo-Power" miracle additive--I'd be raving about it.
For a "placebo" to work the patient reallly needs to project a pressing need and must really be looking for a cure. I wasn't doing either.
And the tach needle doesn't lie. It's steady now, used to undulate a bit. And I could rarely dump into 5th gear at low speeds and get away with it.
I've never been able to detect the slightest difference between brands except for Arco. Arco gummed up our boat and I didn't believe the mechanic until the guy who fixed my lawn mower asked me if I had used Arco in it.
if you want a trial, send me your $60, and I will tell you I taped it to my fuel line, and how things went
if BP was producing regenerative braking components for hybrid cars, or spending a billion dollars a year in a combine with GM and D/C on the hybrid, I'd buy their pitch.
they are just dabbling in any alternative technology to oil burning so they know the technology, and can gear up to commercial if any of them take off. far as I can see, that's their "beyond petroleum" stance.
prove me wrong.
folks, here's something you didn't know. there is a magnet in each and every fuel injector ever made. all the fuel has to flow around these magnets (also called injector pintles) to get into the cylinder. even if it worked, which it never did on carbed cars, it's already there, and you pay a hundred bucks or more for each one already.
so take the $60, and fill your tank with it
government is just another captive division of big oil, inc.
or does anybody else have any ideas why hydrogen tests are limited to a few cars in upstate new york, hybrids are produced in whopping numbers like 7 thousand a year at the most busy of the lines at toyota, and no matter how many high school and college teams build little microcars that go forever across the US on solar power, it never gets past these little competitions?
agrifuels like E85 are the only chink in their armor.
Biodiesel is a much more usable fuel. E85 engines are very inefficient. You lose about 20% mileage with E85. It is still more costly to produce ethanol than it is worth. I don't see any gain except for ADM. That is the agricultural equivelant. to Exxon or BP.
Solar has never proven cost effective. PV cells cost more to produce than they generate in their lifecycle. Ask anyone that has had them for 5-10 years on their home.
July 5: Solar Energy Research Institute begins official operation, in Golden, Colorado, USA. First director is Dr. Paul Rappaport (1977-1979).
November: Atlantic Richfield purchases Bill Yerkes' company Solar Technology International. ARCO Solar builds world's largest PV manufacturing facility, in Camarillo,
California. 1980: ARCO Solar is the first company to produce more than 1 MW of PV modules in one year.
ARCO was earlier than Amoco in the history of Solar PV Cell production. Both were swallowed up by BP. Making BP the largest producer of solar cells. I guess they have all the bases covered.
http://www.solarenergyalliance.com/complete_history_of_pv.htm
It is true that Government and specifically Congress is controlled by lobbyist money. Oil money is a big part of that control.
selected holiday and all cenex stations have e85 here in mn, with a random few others, and most cenex have biodiesel of probably 20 percent soy oil.
e85 at the present time is still a little bit of a subsidy to farmers, but on doubling to 8 billion gallons a year and the wider distribution, should pretty much clear that issue. if the additional plants use biomass instead of feed corn for their input, the ethanol industry should be a net gainer for energy instead of a slight loss. one fact to remember, however, is that it's domestic fuel, at least 85% of it is. precious few suppliers can prove it. this alone counts for something these parlous days of murder and intrigue in the net exporting nations.
http://www.bgprod.com/products/fuelair.html
It is pricy, Around $20US This stuff saved me from taking my 2001 Quest to the dealer
Keepem :shades:
My question is - Is this stuff snake oil, or is it a pretty proven product? Just curious if any mechanics on this board have an opinion about this stugg.
That's what I was thinking when my buddy told me about this - otherwise, why would the past sludge issues of some of the manufacturers been such a big deal if all the dealer had to do was dump an additive in with the oil? I also wondered how the conditioner was able to "condition" the gaskets and prevent leaks. Does this stuff supposedly mix in with the oil - or does it stay as a seperate chemical down inside the pan and go seeking out the rubber gaskets? Just seemed like a little too much of a "tell the customer it does this so they will feel good about spending the $ on this."
The product works by the transfer method. It transfers your money from your pocket to the dealer's pocket.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,