Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

ateixeira

That's what I thought Patti.

I was lucky - it was time to bleed my brakes, so basically I waited and they did it for me (given they replaced the brake master cylinder).

-juice

subaru_team

At least I can vouch that Ron is a good guy who is persistant. I'm sure he'll do his best.

Patti

bat1161

Mike-

I got bogged down at work yesterday, so I finally checked the posts here now. That would have been great too, as I was home free for once. Next time.

Mark

bat1161

I have an unusual problem with the auto dimming mirror on my OB. It looks like the coating on the mirror is slowly melting off. It started out as just a small circle- I thought it might have been from the heat or something. Now, most of the coating is gone. What is left is a line going across the mirror, clearly showing where the coating is applied.

I contacted the dealer and am bringing the car in next Wed for service. I also have a problem with the alignment. When they repalced the tires and did an alognment the left front camber was way off. It originally read -1.9. They managed to get it down to -0.6. They recommended I get it checked out. When I asked them what may be the problem, they wouldn't say, only "Well, you know the streets of NY". They only offered to put on a camber support kit(?), but I said no I'll take it to the dealer.

Even though these problems have come up, I still love the car. My wife is already panicking- why should all this happen after only 2 years? I told her stuff happens, especially driving in the city. I told her the streets here are worse than the Pine Barrens:-)

Any ideas on either problem?

Thanks,

Mark

PS: This is what the mirror looked like a coule of days ago.

http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v5/5/6/71/46250671cSYIdm_th.jpg

idahodoug

Mark,

These numbers are meaningless unless you know what the numbers are supposed to be - they're usually a range. If the shop thinks they're supposed to get it to 0 and this was as close as they could get, you should get your money back. The idea is not to get it to 0, but to get it to the number the factory specifies which could be 1.2, 2.1, 3.3 or whatever. So, be sure they knew what they were doing before assuming something is wrong with your vehicle.

Don't have input on the mirror except to say I'd think this would pretty clearly be a defect to last only 24 months.

IdahoDoug

jregen7243

Anyone else notice how the auto-dimming mirror does not get dark enough?? I know they are made by an outside vendor (can't think of the name right now). I had the same mirror in my previous car (non-Subaru) without the compass, and it had the exact same problem. I'm going to have to tint my back window soon because of it, which will totally make the auto-dimming worthless. I know there are other companies that make them. A family member had a Jeep Grand Cherokee with one, it got so dark at night, you could barely see the lights of the car behind you. That mirror was definitely made by someone else.

Jon

leo2633

Jon,

My wife's '02 Outback came with the auto dimming mirror. I agree that the mirror doesn't darken enough, and I would have preferred the standard mirror. We also had the windows tinted (15% metallic film). Even with the tint, the mirror definitely does darken somewhat when headlights appear from behind. Another disadvantage of this mirror is that the housing extends much lower than the mirror glass, which I find distracting. I'm 6'1", but my wife, who is 5'2", isn't bothered by it. (By the way, the mirror is made by Donnelly Corp.)

Len

bat1161

IdahoDoug- I agree with double checking everything regarding the alignment. That's why I'm bringing the car to the dealer on Wed for another opinion. It seemed a little funny that the shop would not/could not tell me what was wrong to throw it so far off (according to them). That's why I'm going for a second opinion.

As for the mirror, I believe I found what is wrong. I noticed when I got into the car today, a black "tar-like" substance by the shifter. At first I thought I may have picked up something at a near-by construction area. Then I noticed at the bottom of the mirror a spot of this same substance. Upon closer examination, it appears the mirror is leaking this substance! I'll show this to the dealer as well on Wed, but at least that would explain why the "line" on the mirror keeps moving. I guess whatever enables the miror to dim is moving around inside, and leaking out. What caused this, I have no idea. The only explaination I can think of is the heat somehow melted te gasket holding this stuff in. I'll let you know what happens.

Mark

jregen7243

I sent Donnelly an email last night telling them about how their mirrors don't do a good job blocking out lights at night. I'll post the response if I get it.

Jon

vincer2

The mirror in my 2000 OB was replaced (under warranty) because of the same problem experienced by Mark.

The mirror has 2 light sensors. One is on the front, or windshield side, and I believe its purpose is to detect daylight so the mirror won't dim during daylight hours. The 2nd sensor is on the mirror side which detects light from the rear and causes the mirror to dim during non daylight hours whenever lights from the rear strike it.

You can make the mirror get darker by blocking the daylight sensor on the windshield side of the mirror. If I remember correctly, its a small hole just to the right of the center of the mirror.

The problem with the daylight sensor is during evening hours it detects headlights from on coming cars and other roadside lights. This then prevents the mirror from dimming when headlights from cars in the rear strike the rear facing sensor. Another problem is during the day when SUV's with higher mounted headlights and drl's approach from the rear they can cause an annoying glare but since there's daylight the mirror will not dim.

To "encourage" the mirror to function better in the evening I also removed the rear center headrest that was blocking headlights from the rear from directly reaching the rear facing light sensor.

I'm disappointed in the mirror. I installed it after I bought the car because I wanted the compass but I'm going to replace it with the original mirror.

I think Subaru should either work with Donnelly to improve the performance of the mirror or partner with someone who makes a better product.

Vince

leea4

Sorry, it took me so long to respond to you,been on vacation, anyway, I had a problem very similar to yours, see post Subaru VDC #1324,1356 & 1363. I thought I was done with the problem, however the vibration came back, just took the VDC into the dealer this morning, and they discovered that one of the "U" joints is binding up again, dealer said that they have a call into Subaru, but looks like they are going to have to replace the drive shaft again. When the vibration came back this time it was at a higher speed. 60-65, but it sounds very similar to your shimmy, good luck.Gary

jregen7243

I put my finger in front of the light sensor while driving tonight and it made a HUGE difference. The mirror got much darker than I've ever seen it...the way it should perform all the time at night. Thanks for that info Vince. Obviously if I have to do this to get it to work properly, this is a poor design on Donnellys part.

Jon

abchan

Ack! I had a minor mishap while driving home from work tonight. As I was passing a car, I ran into and dragged for a few hundred yards a lawn mower mulch bag! I was going about 50-55 mph, and it made horrible scratching sounds. Once I was able to safely slow down and pull over, I found the bag wedged under my bumper. Fortunately, a woman was kind enough to stop and help me. She was able to slightly lift the front of the car while I pulled the bag out.

Everything looked fine except that now the front tow hook cover is missing. This is the smallish piece on the front bumper next to the right fog light. Anyone have any experience replacing this (costs, difficulties, etc.)?

I am still pretty upset even though the situation could have been much worse. I've had my 2001Gree Bean for almost 4 months now and have been loving it. I had traded-in a 1995 Legacy L manual wagon.

--Amy

vincer2

I covered the front facing sensor on the original self dimming mirror with a small piece of black electrical tape to "force" the mirror to function according to my expectations. The mirror was darker during the day as well but I actually preferred it that way.

I'm not sure if keeping the sensor covered all the time was in any way responsible for the self darkening mechanism to prematurely fail.

Vince

ateixeira

Amy: first off, let's be glad nothing serious went wrong. It's just a tow hook.

Some Outbacks had a recall to remove tow hooks, was yours affected? Did you ever find the tow hook?

I'm wondering if it was there in the first place. They are very sturdy and it would take a lot of force to yank a 17mm bolt out of its socket.

I removed my rear tow hooks to install my hitch, that's why I'm familiar with them. I also removed the tow hooks from my Miata, since they supposedly aren't sturdy enough to be used if the car is towed. No big deal to be without one.

-juice

paisan

I think she was refering to the tow hook cover. Not sure though.

-mike

beachfish

I can't wait to try the tape on my mirror. Not only is the mirror too dern large to see under or around (I'm only 6' tall), but it is, to repeat a phrase, not dark enough to be useful.

Thanks,

John

abchan

Juice and Mike: thanks for responding to my story.

Mike: yes, I am referring to the tow hook cover; it's a piece of the front bumper that covers the tow hook.

Juice: I don't think the 2001 Outback had the the tow hook recall (at least I have not received noticed about it, or it was fixed by the previous owners--this was a dealer rep car). My previous 1995 Legacy had it's front tow hooks removed through the recall. The tow hook is still in place, and the rest of the bumper looks intact.

So I'm waiting to hear back from a few dealers and subaruparts.com on a quote for this part. I'm thinking that I may have to get the wheels aligned too.

--Amy

ateixeira

Try e-mailing parts@libertysubaru.com, they were the cheapest source when I bought accessories.

-juice

idahodoug

Amy,

It doesn't sound like a realignment would be called for at all, though I'm sure you could find someone willing to take your money and tell you "Wow - it was horribly out of line and we're glad you came in". Generally, this would only be done if you hit something hard enough to bend the suspension - say sliding into a curb in the winter, or an incredibly deep pothole that nearly cut the tire. Spend the money on the hook cover instead..

IdahoDoug

peterson10

IMO the tow hook cover is a wonderful example of slipshod design to begin with. If anyone has ever "practiced" removing it, you'll know that it requires a good deal of care and attention to instructions to avoid breaking it (something the average tow truck driver is not apt to do). After removing mine, I strongly considered just leaving it off; painting the hook/mount to match the bumper cover and ratcheting up with the whole "functional" aesthetic. But I chickened out and slapped it back on. Sorry, I'm rambling. You might want to call around to a few wrecking yards. I have to believe there are a few intact covers out there on OBs that have been broadsided by out-of-control Explorers. It would take only a minute or so to pop one off...hand the guy a couple of bucks, and be on your way. Glad to hear nothing functional was damaged.
YetAnotherDave

erics6

Thanks Gary for the information. My shimmy can be felt at any freeway speeds. I did have the dealer check the u-joints/driveshaft and they said everything was okay. Dealer agreed to pick up the cost of resurfacing the rotors if this does not fix the problem after SOA district service rep. spoke with them (thanks Patti). Seems like a fair deal to me.

For what's it's worth, my neighbors Saab has to have the rotors resurfaced when he changes the pads because of Saab's brake design (pad chews up the rotor), so this isn't too bad.

-Eric

nygreg

Same thing happened to me last winter. I hit a dog on the highway and lost my tow hook cover. The replacement is about $40 if IIRC. However, it comes unpainted (its black). Of course, my new, unpainted cover is still in the bag in my garage. Just haven't had the chance to get it to a body shop for painting yet. YADave has a good idea. I will check a few car yards for a smashed OB.

Greg

ateixeira

I've checked a few junk yards, and Subies are hard to find. I have only seen older Legacys and Loyales, nothing '95 or newer.

I found some latches for my Miata that had broken, and some other little stuff. But nothing for the Subie.

-juice (a scavenger at junk yards)

mn_pat

my 96 legacy wagon (104K) began make a new sound in the last month. It is a high pitched whine. The sound of the whine increases with engine speed. My first thought was the alternator, but, the lights don't increase in brightness when i rev the motor. Is the battery going bad? What could it be. Other than the new noise, gas mileage and performance are the same.

mrdetailer

Alternator Belt may need some adjustment.

nygreg

the alternator bearing could be starting to fail. You won't be able to tell by your headlights. Try disconnecting the belt and see of the noise goes away (of course you will be running off the battery, but a quick test might give some insight).

Greg

mn_pat

The noise isn't the belt slipping.

I'll try the disconnect test and see what happens. I had the alternator replaced in 7-01, its probably just out of warranty. doh!!! If it does turn out to be the alternator, this time, I'm doing the work myself

otis123

I have a 2001 LLBean w/ 28K near flawless miles. A couple weeks ago the left cargo cover catch piece came apart. It is a simple Phillips head screw that holds the rubber and plastic end pieces together. The end piece goes into the slot on the inside rear corner post to hold the cargo cover in place (they are marked L and R). I re-assembled it and everything was fine. (We open and close our cover a lot.)

While on vacation at the shore (Montauk, NY) last week, the right screw was doing the same thing. I borrowed a screw driver and tightened it (and re-tightened the left one).

Has anyone else had to do this? Is it related to the intense heat we have been having in NYC area? Or do I need to get my cargo cover replaced? The screws seem to go into a rigid particle board - how long will that last? Whole thing seems like a weird design - like someone said "hey, let's just put a screw and this rubber and plastic piece here - and there - yeh, that should do it...." Seems to be designed to be loose? Anyway, my concern is screw hole may be getting sripped, but it's hard to tell...

Thanks.

Ralph

idahodoug

Ralph,

If the dealer won't replace it for you (check this first - seems reasonable) then you can fix it yourself. Go to a local hardware store and get some 2 part epoxy that you mix yourself. Get the "old" style where it takes 24 hours to cure - shun the fast cure stuff. Squeeze equal parts onto a square of aluminum foil and mix it up with a couple toothpicks (easy cleanup - just ball it up and toss in the trash). Use the toothpicks to work some in each screw hole, then screw the fittings back in and it will probably last several years before you might have to do it again. If you want to be anal about it, pour a little rubbing alcohol on the screw threads and wipe them dryu before assembling to get a clean oil-free surface to bond.

Or, throw the whole thing in the trash, and move somewhere where you don't have to cover your valuables (grin).....

IdahoDoug

scandia

I have a 97 Legacy Wagon, L series with just under 150,000 miles. I've had it for about a year. It runs great, the body is in good shape but the codes say it needs a catalytic converter. My mechanic estimates $1700 for the front and back and oxygen sensors, installed. I'm trying to decide if it's worth it. (Of course, I just put a new stereo in!) Money is pretty tight. Any advice out there? (Please keep it simple-I'm no mechanic!) Thanks.

paisan

That seems like a crazy price. Also I think the cats are warrantied for a certain time period w/o milage restrictions? Just a thought.

-mike

ateixeira

Try a rubber washer, to dampen vibes and keep it tight.

The cat by itself is usually about $180-300 or so, that price does seem high.

-juice

idahodoug

That is an insane price. I have a '97 Legacy L Wagon and the warranty booklet says the cats are covered for 8yrs/80,000 miles whichever happens first. But the car's running fine and I wouldn't worry about it. So there's a code in there - no big deal. I bought mine with 23,000 miles a couple months ago so it's nice to know yours is still smooth at 150k. Question for you: Does your steering wheel lock when you remove the key? I can turn mine without the key. Thanks.

IdahoDoug

bat1161

Ralph,

I ve had the same thing happen a couple of times on my 00 OB cargo cover. One time i even lost the whole piece. I went to the dealer, the service dept was closed, so he just went and took one off a lease return:-) Total cost: 0.

They seem to loosen up quite a bit (must be the vibrations from all the NYC potholes). I agree it's annoying, but just periodically check both screws.

Mark

jfl

Since the alternator was replaced recently, could it be a water pump bearing?

Jim

kevin_nc

I have a '98 Legacy Outback Ltd., now with 65,000 miles and I have had a problem with clutch shudder. The shudder has been there since before 36,000 miles, but became more pronounced after a warranty-covered oil leak repair that required disassembling the clutch at about 53,000 miles. After MANY visits to the dealer to fix this problem where they did nothing more than keep my car in their parking lot for a day and tell me there was no problem, they finally replaced the whole clutch assembly: disk, cover, flywheel, bearings, etc (and we shared the cost). I drove the car home and the shudder was not as severe, but still present. Now that I have driven the car 20 miles, it is as bad as it ever was. Backing out of my driveway this morning practically shook my coffee cup out of the drink holder! I started a case with Subaru looong ago, but that seems to have had no effect on my problem. I suspect that the dealer did not actually replace the clutch components and did some minor adjustment that temporarily (for 10 miles) reduced the shudder. I have no idea how I would prove this and if this is the case I am probably screwed. The alternative, I guess, is that Subaru Outbacks have lousy clutches that are unfixable. If this is true, I will stand on my rooftop and shout to the world "Never, ever buy a Subaru product!". If anyone has any advice as how to proceed at this point, I would be very grateful.

Thanks in advance,

Kevin

mn_pat

I hope its not the water pump bearing!! The car has 103k on it, i had the t-belt and water pump were replaced at around 85k. The check engine light has start to come on lately. I can get rid of it by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes but the light always comes back in a few hundred miles. Monday, I'm bring the car to a independant Subaru mechanic

jay_24

mn_pat,

who/where is your subaru mechanic? do you recommend them?

--jay (minneapolis area)

otis123

Thanks for the feedback. Figured it was the design - maybe it needs to be loose so it won't crack in winter. It appears to give enough advanced warning as to when it needs to be tightened (although not the first time, since it all fell apart for me too but I was able to find all 3 pieces).
I don't miss the city potholes (or construction routes!) since moving to Westchester 10 years ago. I remember going airborn once on a temporary exit off the BQE in Queens. Couldn't believe they would set up something like that for the weekend!
Whenever I drive in the city now with my Outback I wonder why there aren't more Outbacks? They're very rare. Low thief rate, rugged, etc. Especially given how often you can bottom out on NYC roads - the extra clearance is great!
Ralph

mn_pat

I go to Ztech in bloomington, on old shakopee rd just a little east of hiway 169.

I have been bringing my car only there since I got it. To date all I've had done on the car is maintainance. The owner worked at a Subaru dealer for a number of years before he opened up Ztech. I do recommended him.

ssnyder4

I'm happy to announce that after a ton of research and years of contemplation, I finally made the switch to a new '02 Outback Limited in Black Granite Pearl!

I do have two questions for you experienced Subaru owners however. With little over 400 miles on my beauty, I realize there is a break-in period to entertain. However, my first question is this: For the week I've had the car, 3 times when it has been quite humid and damp after a rainfall (the car has sat overnight) I go to start the vehicle and everything is fine, idle is fine. However, after putting the car into drive and giving the gas, it hesitates to the point it nearly stalls. Has anyone had this experience with a new Outback and what was the solution? I never had this problem with any other new cars I've had.

Second, there seems to be a whistling coming from the stereo perhaps (without it even turned on) when I accellerate on the highway. This may sound odd, but it's something that I simply cannot tolerate one bit. I have good hearing and this just drives me up a wall. Can this be possible on a new car? I know for sure the stereo is off but it really sounds like this high-pitched whistle is coming from the stereo only when I'm accellerating on the highway, anywhere from 60 to 80 mph. But when I let off the gas it dies down. I am sure it is not wind noise. I had an old 81 Buick that did a similar thing but never with the radio off. Any comments?

Thanks!
Shane.

CapeCod

Need some help with my daughter's 97 Outback limited.
Radio / stereo works fine but there is a cracking noise
any time you change the volume...
Dealer can not find the problem !
What could it be :
speakers ??? wiring connection ????
build up of dirt on rheostat volume knob ???
Thanks Phil T

wmiller4

Sounds like the volume "pot" switch is dirty.

Try this.......with the radio switched off quickly
turn the volume switch back and forth a few times. You are
trying to clean off the contacts of the switch. Now turn
on the radio and see if that has taken care of it.

If not try the more permanent solution of using some
contact cleaner spray. You should be able to find some
at Radio Shack. Read label to ensure it will not effect plastics.
Try spraying this "behind" the volume switch, just spray around
the knob and allow cleaner to run into the switch
without removing the radio and again turn the switch quickly
to help the cleaner work in. Remember to keep a rag handy to
clean up and help keep the cleaner from running down the face of your
radio. Good luck!

idahodoug

I bought a '96 Legacy for my mother a couple months back that did that. It was owned by an elderly couple who evidently did not use the radio much. Each time I changed the volume for about a week it would crackle. Then it quit doing this. So, if you recently bought it, perhaps this lack of use is it. The volume knob must have a predisposition to get a bit of dirt in there and the cleaner will work great if you can get it in there. The knob simply pulls off.

IdahoDoug

jay_24

I've had a 2001 OB hesitate for the past year. it does it about 25% ?? of the time. I can't say it almost stalls. Sometimes its hardly noticeable for me. I've had the dealer look into it only once and got the expected, "Can't reproduce." I'm going to have them look at it again in a week or two.

I'm going to suggest it something with the throttle, since it tends to happen only when my foot is just barely on the throttle. (coasting or lightly accelerating).

Other than this little annoyance, I love the car.

--jay

ateixeira

Kevin: 65k mile life for a clutch isn't unheard of. A friend's Rodeo had a clutch go at 35k miles, and they didn't honor the warranty because they said he went off road (a little but only on the beach).

I say get an ACT clutch for about $400 to enhance it, rather than fighting for another OE clutch that may or may not be better. I wouldn't allow $400 to ruin a $20,000 ownership experience IMHO. If you had 30k miles, it would be a completely different story.

Do a search on SPG (single-point ground) on i-club.com for any stalling/hesitation issues. They have a simple quick fix for anyone that is handy.

-juice

bat1161

Ralph,

Actually I've been seeing a lot more Outback's in the city. Especially near my sister in Park Slope. Walk down the block near her and you're sure to walk past a half a dozen Subaru's, both Outback & Forester.

Mark

mn_pat

Anybody tried the Amsoil oil-wetted foam air filter? They supposedly have better dirt removal and longer life that K&N with similar air flow. I'm interested in an improvement in gas mileage in my 96 legacy wagon.

http://www.amsoil.com/products/ts.html

ateixeira

Ken Suzuki has one in his '98 Forester S, and I think Colin might have one too. Both have reported good results.

-juice