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Comments
I was lucky - it was time to bleed my brakes, so basically I waited and they did it for me (given they replaced the brake master cylinder).
-juice
Patti
I got bogged down at work yesterday, so I finally checked the posts here now. That would have been great too, as I was home free for once. Next time.
Mark
I contacted the dealer and am bringing the car in next Wed for service. I also have a problem with the alignment. When they repalced the tires and did an alognment the left front camber was way off. It originally read -1.9. They managed to get it down to -0.6. They recommended I get it checked out. When I asked them what may be the problem, they wouldn't say, only "Well, you know the streets of NY". They only offered to put on a camber support kit(?), but I said no I'll take it to the dealer.
Even though these problems have come up, I still love the car. My wife is already panicking- why should all this happen after only 2 years? I told her stuff happens, especially driving in the city. I told her the streets here are worse than the Pine Barrens:-)
Any ideas on either problem?
Thanks,
Mark
PS: This is what the mirror looked like a coule of days ago.
http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v5/5/6/71/46250671cSYIdm_th.jpg
These numbers are meaningless unless you know what the numbers are supposed to be - they're usually a range. If the shop thinks they're supposed to get it to 0 and this was as close as they could get, you should get your money back. The idea is not to get it to 0, but to get it to the number the factory specifies which could be 1.2, 2.1, 3.3 or whatever. So, be sure they knew what they were doing before assuming something is wrong with your vehicle.
Don't have input on the mirror except to say I'd think this would pretty clearly be a defect to last only 24 months.
IdahoDoug
Jon
My wife's '02 Outback came with the auto dimming mirror. I agree that the mirror doesn't darken enough, and I would have preferred the standard mirror. We also had the windows tinted (15% metallic film). Even with the tint, the mirror definitely does darken somewhat when headlights appear from behind. Another disadvantage of this mirror is that the housing extends much lower than the mirror glass, which I find distracting. I'm 6'1", but my wife, who is 5'2", isn't bothered by it. (By the way, the mirror is made by Donnelly Corp.)
Len
As for the mirror, I believe I found what is wrong. I noticed when I got into the car today, a black "tar-like" substance by the shifter. At first I thought I may have picked up something at a near-by construction area. Then I noticed at the bottom of the mirror a spot of this same substance. Upon closer examination, it appears the mirror is leaking this substance! I'll show this to the dealer as well on Wed, but at least that would explain why the "line" on the mirror keeps moving. I guess whatever enables the miror to dim is moving around inside, and leaking out. What caused this, I have no idea. The only explaination I can think of is the heat somehow melted te gasket holding this stuff in. I'll let you know what happens.
Mark
Jon
The mirror has 2 light sensors. One is on the front, or windshield side, and I believe its purpose is to detect daylight so the mirror won't dim during daylight hours. The 2nd sensor is on the mirror side which detects light from the rear and causes the mirror to dim during non daylight hours whenever lights from the rear strike it.
You can make the mirror get darker by blocking the daylight sensor on the windshield side of the mirror. If I remember correctly, its a small hole just to the right of the center of the mirror.
The problem with the daylight sensor is during evening hours it detects headlights from on coming cars and other roadside lights. This then prevents the mirror from dimming when headlights from cars in the rear strike the rear facing sensor. Another problem is during the day when SUV's with higher mounted headlights and drl's approach from the rear they can cause an annoying glare but since there's daylight the mirror will not dim.
To "encourage" the mirror to function better in the evening I also removed the rear center headrest that was blocking headlights from the rear from directly reaching the rear facing light sensor.
I'm disappointed in the mirror. I installed it after I bought the car because I wanted the compass but I'm going to replace it with the original mirror.
I think Subaru should either work with Donnelly to improve the performance of the mirror or partner with someone who makes a better product.
Vince
Jon
Everything looked fine except that now the front tow hook cover is missing. This is the smallish piece on the front bumper next to the right fog light. Anyone have any experience replacing this (costs, difficulties, etc.)?
I am still pretty upset even though the situation could have been much worse. I've had my 2001Gree Bean for almost 4 months now and have been loving it. I had traded-in a 1995 Legacy L manual wagon.
--Amy
I'm not sure if keeping the sensor covered all the time was in any way responsible for the self darkening mechanism to prematurely fail.
Vince
Some Outbacks had a recall to remove tow hooks, was yours affected? Did you ever find the tow hook?
I'm wondering if it was there in the first place. They are very sturdy and it would take a lot of force to yank a 17mm bolt out of its socket.
I removed my rear tow hooks to install my hitch, that's why I'm familiar with them. I also removed the tow hooks from my Miata, since they supposedly aren't sturdy enough to be used if the car is towed. No big deal to be without one.
-juice
-mike
Thanks,
John
Mike: yes, I am referring to the tow hook cover; it's a piece of the front bumper that covers the tow hook.
Juice: I don't think the 2001 Outback had the the tow hook recall (at least I have not received noticed about it, or it was fixed by the previous owners--this was a dealer rep car). My previous 1995 Legacy had it's front tow hooks removed through the recall. The tow hook is still in place, and the rest of the bumper looks intact.
So I'm waiting to hear back from a few dealers and subaruparts.com on a quote for this part. I'm thinking that I may have to get the wheels aligned too.
--Amy
-juice
It doesn't sound like a realignment would be called for at all, though I'm sure you could find someone willing to take your money and tell you "Wow - it was horribly out of line and we're glad you came in". Generally, this would only be done if you hit something hard enough to bend the suspension - say sliding into a curb in the winter, or an incredibly deep pothole that nearly cut the tire. Spend the money on the hook cover instead..
IdahoDoug
YetAnotherDave
For what's it's worth, my neighbors Saab has to have the rotors resurfaced when he changes the pads because of Saab's brake design (pad chews up the rotor), so this isn't too bad.
-Eric
Greg
I found some latches for my Miata that had broken, and some other little stuff. But nothing for the Subie.
-juice (a scavenger at junk yards)
Greg
I'll try the disconnect test and see what happens. I had the alternator replaced in 7-01, its probably just out of warranty. doh!!! If it does turn out to be the alternator, this time, I'm doing the work myself
While on vacation at the shore (Montauk, NY) last week, the right screw was doing the same thing. I borrowed a screw driver and tightened it (and re-tightened the left one).
Has anyone else had to do this? Is it related to the intense heat we have been having in NYC area? Or do I need to get my cargo cover replaced? The screws seem to go into a rigid particle board - how long will that last? Whole thing seems like a weird design - like someone said "hey, let's just put a screw and this rubber and plastic piece here - and there - yeh, that should do it...." Seems to be designed to be loose? Anyway, my concern is screw hole may be getting sripped, but it's hard to tell...
Thanks.
Ralph
If the dealer won't replace it for you (check this first - seems reasonable) then you can fix it yourself. Go to a local hardware store and get some 2 part epoxy that you mix yourself. Get the "old" style where it takes 24 hours to cure - shun the fast cure stuff. Squeeze equal parts onto a square of aluminum foil and mix it up with a couple toothpicks (easy cleanup - just ball it up and toss in the trash). Use the toothpicks to work some in each screw hole, then screw the fittings back in and it will probably last several years before you might have to do it again. If you want to be anal about it, pour a little rubbing alcohol on the screw threads and wipe them dryu before assembling to get a clean oil-free surface to bond.
Or, throw the whole thing in the trash, and move somewhere where you don't have to cover your valuables (grin).....
IdahoDoug
-mike
The cat by itself is usually about $180-300 or so, that price does seem high.
-juice
IdahoDoug
I ve had the same thing happen a couple of times on my 00 OB cargo cover. One time i even lost the whole piece. I went to the dealer, the service dept was closed, so he just went and took one off a lease return:-) Total cost: 0.
They seem to loosen up quite a bit (must be the vibrations from all the NYC potholes). I agree it's annoying, but just periodically check both screws.
Mark
Jim
Thanks in advance,
Kevin
who/where is your subaru mechanic? do you recommend them?
--jay (minneapolis area)
I don't miss the city potholes (or construction routes!) since moving to Westchester 10 years ago. I remember going airborn once on a temporary exit off the BQE in Queens. Couldn't believe they would set up something like that for the weekend!
Whenever I drive in the city now with my Outback I wonder why there aren't more Outbacks? They're very rare. Low thief rate, rugged, etc. Especially given how often you can bottom out on NYC roads - the extra clearance is great!
Ralph
I have been bringing my car only there since I got it. To date all I've had done on the car is maintainance. The owner worked at a Subaru dealer for a number of years before he opened up Ztech. I do recommended him.
I do have two questions for you experienced Subaru owners however. With little over 400 miles on my beauty, I realize there is a break-in period to entertain. However, my first question is this: For the week I've had the car, 3 times when it has been quite humid and damp after a rainfall (the car has sat overnight) I go to start the vehicle and everything is fine, idle is fine. However, after putting the car into drive and giving the gas, it hesitates to the point it nearly stalls. Has anyone had this experience with a new Outback and what was the solution? I never had this problem with any other new cars I've had.
Second, there seems to be a whistling coming from the stereo perhaps (without it even turned on) when I accellerate on the highway. This may sound odd, but it's something that I simply cannot tolerate one bit. I have good hearing and this just drives me up a wall. Can this be possible on a new car? I know for sure the stereo is off but it really sounds like this high-pitched whistle is coming from the stereo only when I'm accellerating on the highway, anywhere from 60 to 80 mph. But when I let off the gas it dies down. I am sure it is not wind noise. I had an old 81 Buick that did a similar thing but never with the radio off. Any comments?
Thanks!
Shane.
Radio / stereo works fine but there is a cracking noise
any time you change the volume...
Dealer can not find the problem !
What could it be :
speakers ??? wiring connection ????
build up of dirt on rheostat volume knob ???
Thanks Phil T
Try this.......with the radio switched off quickly
turn the volume switch back and forth a few times. You are
trying to clean off the contacts of the switch. Now turn
on the radio and see if that has taken care of it.
If not try the more permanent solution of using some
contact cleaner spray. You should be able to find some
at Radio Shack. Read label to ensure it will not effect plastics.
Try spraying this "behind" the volume switch, just spray around
the knob and allow cleaner to run into the switch
without removing the radio and again turn the switch quickly
to help the cleaner work in. Remember to keep a rag handy to
clean up and help keep the cleaner from running down the face of your
radio. Good luck!
IdahoDoug
I'm going to suggest it something with the throttle, since it tends to happen only when my foot is just barely on the throttle. (coasting or lightly accelerating).
Other than this little annoyance, I love the car.
--jay
I say get an ACT clutch for about $400 to enhance it, rather than fighting for another OE clutch that may or may not be better. I wouldn't allow $400 to ruin a $20,000 ownership experience IMHO. If you had 30k miles, it would be a completely different story.
Do a search on SPG (single-point ground) on i-club.com for any stalling/hesitation issues. They have a simple quick fix for anyone that is handy.
-juice
Actually I've been seeing a lot more Outback's in the city. Especially near my sister in Park Slope. Walk down the block near her and you're sure to walk past a half a dozen Subaru's, both Outback & Forester.
Mark
http://www.amsoil.com/products/ts.html
-juice