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Comments
What dealer quote you $32,100.00 for a 2009 g37 nav?
Thanks
Now I do agree with everything else you said - values holds up, they are outstanding cars. I recommend everyone buying one or two...
Just curious though, is maintenance costs for the AWDx substantially more than a RWD version? How about maintenance costs in general? High? Average?
I would ask the service manager at your local dealership for a schedule with prices - I'm sure they have one pre-printed.
PS Florida dealers are known for high doc fees too; would be interested in what the doc fees are if you find out. Thanks.
I just came across this @ CA DMV website
What other fees can a dealer charge on a new vehicle?
Dealers may charge buyers a document preparation service fee not to exceed $55. This fee is not required or collected by the department.
So this may after all a thing specific to a state. It might help new car buyers in CA. They have a nice calculator which gives you estimate for TTL. I had no surprises while buying my new car ( though they charged me $30 for DMV electronic filing fee!).
that number looks reasonable if you were to tap into infiniti financing.
other wise, it should be in the $34K territory - I just bought one cash for less than $34k, in the northeast.
Thanks
2009 Sedan (same): $3500 or $1000 + special rates
2009 Coupe (same): $4500 or $1500 + special rates
I've agreed on 35,450 with $350 in dealer fees for the g37x, awd, 4door sedan, nav, prem and matts. I put three dealers against each other so I think this is a decent price for the Kentucky area. The all wheel drive adds more but I think it's worth it.
quote was 526.45 for 12kmiles
How do i negotiate the price down on the sticker . right ow they are only offering 1000 customer loyalty to me .
destination fee 350.00 doc price if i remember right . I will call dealer again tomorrow and post here again. But any help would be really appreciated.
like i said before new at this
G37 Journey 2010, Graphite shadow, graphite interior, illuminated kick plates, prem package & vehicle alarm with maple. Total for the vehicle is around $39,790 and we can take up to $3k off (includes the rebate) so $38,290 with financing special or 36,790 with cash deal.
Whats better in the end? The 1500 cash back or the special financing?
What is the invoice on that G37x and where was this?
Thanks
--jayhawk
i live in a hilly area in the northeast and have to have awd to get out of my own driveway, with the least amount of snow.
so far, it has been good, other than this smell which the dealer says is from new paint. so we are going to check it out in a couple weeks.
I'm thinking the same as you......right around $34K cash deal, no financing. If I do go that direction (just getting a feel for what I might buy, if anything), I'm thinking I may have to go outside of my general area to save about $2K....an area that has more than one dealership to keep the competition honest.
Thanks for the input.
Our area (southern CT) dealers seem to have plenty of '09s in stock. the folks who have been very aggressive in their pricing here include competition infiniti (on long island), pepe infiniti and greenwich infiniti.
I would suggest that you give them a call and see how it goes. Ohio isn't too far from here.
I thought there was a sense of urgency back in December for those guys to unload those vehicles but I am sure that urgency is there right now, only more intense given that '10s are in stock.
Not sure if that's worth it, with the local dealership being in your back yard...
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502-499-5073
at the Sam Swope Infiniti. I don't think she would go much lower than the 35,450 I purchased my g37x awd, prem and nav. Just my opinion. I also had Lexington and Indy quote me prices after she sold me 36k first off and they both were at mid 35k. Maybe you could get $500 more off at most in my opinion.
I promised my son he would get my pristine '08 Accord once he graduated from college. That day is almost here. So, I'm kind if kicking tires right now to replace it.
I've tried in the past to strike a deal with the local Infiniti store. Nice folks. We just never were able to come to an agreement on price. They're usually a good bit higher than what I'm looking to pay. I think that's a result of them being the only Infiniti store in town.
kyfdx, you know the one I'm talking about. They have just about every color combo in inventory. I really don't care about the "wood" option, but it seems that's what they have on the lot. I think that adds about $500 to the price of the G, also.
I've narrowed it down to the G and an Acura AWD TL. The G should be less expensive. But, the TL is a '10 model whereas the G is an '09. I think I can do a TL Tech AWD for about $38K. It's bigger than the G. They both are on par with each other performance wise (at least by my personal "buttometer"). TL is bigger. But other than that, they're pretty close.
$4K delta (assuming $34K for a loaded Gx) is sizable. I think I'd be happy with either, though. Service might be an issue if I buy out of town. I do like that the local Infiniti store gives you loaners when you buy from them. Not sure that's worth an extra $2K, however.
Once the weather clears up, I may make a little trip down to Louisville.
Again, thanks!
EDIT....while I'm on the topic of KY car dealers, what's the cap on doc fees there (if any)?
I was able to get my fees reduced from $499 to $350. Also got 3.79% financing thru infinit for 6o months. Give Anna a call is she's really just about selling cars, no nonsense.
Please i need the help
The particulars
Sticker 44.825
60% residual 12k
61% residual 10k
00191.00 money factor
1300 down includes first month, TTL, Doc Fees
514.15 10k tax included on both
526.45 12k
The kicker is? I've never bought a new car in KY... :surprise: All my purchases have been in Ohio (or elsewhere)...
I'm sure the No.Ky dealers will try to stick you with $250, since that's the cap in Ohio and they have to compete... In Ohio, almost every dealer charges the MAX $250, so it's hard to get them to drop it... In KY, it's all over the board, so I'd expect it's easier to get them to negotiate it...
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I am not sure why it being a cap would matter. When I negotiate, I negotiate a price before TTL. the dealers can charge whatever fees they wish, the amount of the check i write does not change.
Some people lease, finance through the dealer, etc.. Having the option to write a big check is nice, but it applies to very few car buyers.
Also, most buyers are surprised by extra fees in the finance office.. Knowing the law can help.
Texas, Illinois and New York cap document fees at very low levels... (Ohio used to be $100). For savvy car buyers, it doesn't make much of a difference.. For the vast majority, it's an opportunity to get screwed (pardon my french)
regards,
kyfdx
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why would that person care? the more s/he sells, the more s/he makes, unless at those prices s/he is losing money.
As for Infiniti, if Infiniti were to take any action against the dealer / salesperson, you could make far more money suing Infiniti for price maintenance than you would have ever make on your own.
trust me, Infiniti isn't stupid enough to care about this.
that doesn't matter. all you care is how much you are paying. what fees the dealer makes is irrelevant to you.
That's why you should always ask for prices before TTL or you are comparing apples to oranges.
Please i need the help newbie at this , i did not get a response in the other section
The particulars
Sticker 44.825
60% residual 12k
61% residual 10k
00191.00 money factor
1300 down includes first month, TTL, Doc Fees
514.15 10k tax included on both
526.45 12k
I believe that to get infiniti's financing you have to give up 2500, not 1500 (somebody please correct me if I am wrong).
I have to say that the last 4 cars I bought, I applied for a CapitalOne Auto Loan (you get the results of your interest rate immediately) and they send you a blank check. All four times I took the rate provided by email without the blank check to the dealer and they matched or beat it. I bring this up because right now, if you have good credit, you should be getting a loan for about 4.25 to 4.5 percent (I just got one in that range).
Please do not use the information below for a final decision because these are just some back of the envelope calculations, but l">ets assume out the door cost for you is 35,000 if you have your own loan and 37,500 if you take the special financing. Keep in mind that it would actually be slightly more than 2,500 more because you probably have to pay tax on 2,500 depending on your state law.
Mechanically, the loan works out better for you to pay 4.5 percent on a 35,000 car than 2.9 percent on a 37,500 car. Some quick facts assuming a 66 month loan:
4.5 Loan Payment = 599
2.9 Loan Payment = 615 (the interest rate that sets both payments to 615 is 5.48%)
In this case, you will always owe more principal on the car taking the 2.9 percent loan.
Even if you set the interest rate to 5.48 percent and the payment is exactly the same, you would not take the special 2.9 percent financing because you will always owe more principal on the car until the last payment.
********************************
I do not want to get into every mechanical detail of the loan, but one way to think about the special financing is that it adds 2,500 to the principal. Over a 66 month loan at 2.9 percent, the required payment to payoff 2,500 is about $41 a month. This extra $41 per month is paid for the entire loan.
Now, paying 1.6 percent more (a 4.5 percent loan) on 35,000 (the of the car without the special financing) requires you to pay higher interest of (1.6% * 35,000) / 12 the first month which equals $46. I understand that this is slightly more than the $41 a month extra with the 2.9 percent. HOWEVER, after the first month, you only owe $34,531 on the car so the amount of extra payment goes down. At 18 months you owe $26,295 on the car and the amount of extra payment is only $35 a month. At the end of 33 months (halfway throught the loan), you owe $18,579 on the car and the amount of extra payment each month is $25. Now a standard loan has a fixed payment, so you will always pay the same amount of $25.26 a month more on a 4.5 percent loan than a 2.9 percent (but that beats $41).
maybe because it is very hard to answer if you haven't asked a question.
kyfdx....interesting that you've never bought in KY. But, I'd have to say that you're closer to a wealth of dealers in OH than you are to any of them in KY, correct?
millwood....I usually figure everything in my offer....tax, title, doc, license. For purposes here, TTL charges don't help since they change from state to state, county to county. So, unless someone lives in my county/state, my offers will have little relevance. But, I understand where you're coming from. If KY doesn't have a doc fee cap, then the dealers can charge whatever they want. It doesn't matter to me what the cap is on doc fees. But, it's another item that I like to be aware of because invariably, the dealers try to "ding" my offer by saying I didn't include the right "fees". Normally, I have a cashier's check from my bank with me with everything included that I present to the dealership.
They can either accept it, or reject it. Accept it, and I plan on driving away with their car. Reject the check as written and I'll just move on.
MSRP $41525.00
Invoice $38015.00
Price OTD including $199 doc fee, $300 sales tax and $41 tag is:
Purchase price $34500
The sales manager also gave me a very fair trade for our Jeep. I have 4.99% for 60 months thru USAA but the dealer says he can beat it. Should pick the car up on Sat. since I am out of town during the week. The dealer is Bradshaw Infiniti in Greenville and the sales manager is very easy to work with. They still have the LP G37 with the same equipment as well as two LP G37 sedans with Sport and Premium packages only.
We went with the Platinum Graphite.
I like your approach: clean, quick and gets the job done.
good luck with your search and please let us know where you come out.
Pat
I have a credit score of 775 and I was able to secure 3.79% for 60 months.
Pat