Hi guys, first time posting here, the info I've seen is very helpful!
I'm in the market for a 2015 328i xDrive, 36 months, 15k miles.
The printout I got from the dealer said the car's MSRP is $45495 (including $995 destination charge)
I asked for the monthly payment and details, but the dealer did not give me fees. She rolled all the incentives and fees into the monthly payment, and gave me a quote for $531/month.
These are the parameters she said she used (Chicago tax included).
No money down, no first payment, no security deposit, only need to pay doc fees and plates, about $437.
Is this a good deal? I wanted to get closer to $400, how close to that can I probably get? I have not done any negotiations yet.
Is the MSRP $45,495 or $47,600? Either way, what you need to know is the CAP cost. That's the selling price plus everything else.
And, if you want to be close to $400/mo., you need to pick a cheaper car.
The MSRP is $45,495. I'm guessing she added all the fees and counted it as the MSRP to make it look like she was giving me a bigger discount?
I would assume the CAP cost is the $42500 because the $531 she quoted me includes everything except doc fees and plates. If this doesn't sound right let me know and I will ask her.
Also, I am aware $400/month is unreasonable, but would it be a stretch to get the payment with taxes down to $450/month?
Also are her residual/MF numbers correct?
I confirm the MF and residual numbers quoted to you. With your MSRP and cap cost, I get $489/mo before tax. You may want to consider using MSD to buy down the MF and get a lower payment - max MSD would take the pre-tax payment down to $454/mo
invoice: $35,000 (not including 9.5% tax rate) msrp: $39,700 down: $3,000 monthly payment: $400 (tax and everything included) 15K miles / year x 36 months.
residual: $24,490
I purchased the wear and tear protection package for $800. Car has run flat tires, which means i don't have to replace at end of lease. scratches dents dings no problem all is covered.
What state is this? What is the full breakdown of the $3000 down?
Hi guys, first time posting here, the info I've seen is very helpful!
I'm in the market for a 2015 328i xDrive, 36 months, 15k miles.
The printout I got from the dealer said the car's MSRP is $45495 (including $995 destination charge)
I asked for the monthly payment and details, but the dealer did not give me fees. She rolled all the incentives and fees into the monthly payment, and gave me a quote for $531/month.
These are the parameters she said she used (Chicago tax included).
No money down, no first payment, no security deposit, only need to pay doc fees and plates, about $437.
Is this a good deal? I wanted to get closer to $400, how close to that can I probably get? I have not done any negotiations yet.
Is the MSRP $45,495 or $47,600? Either way, what you need to know is the CAP cost. That's the selling price plus everything else.
And, if you want to be close to $400/mo., you need to pick a cheaper car.
The MSRP is $45,495. I'm guessing she added all the fees and counted it as the MSRP to make it look like she was giving me a bigger discount?
I would assume the CAP cost is the $42500 because the $531 she quoted me includes everything except doc fees and plates. If this doesn't sound right let me know and I will ask her.
Also, I am aware $400/month is unreasonable, but would it be a stretch to get the payment with taxes down to $450/month?
Also are her residual/MF numbers correct?
I confirm the MF and residual numbers quoted to you. With your MSRP and cap cost, I get $489/mo before tax. You may want to consider using MSD to buy down the MF and get a lower payment - max MSD would take the pre-tax payment down to $454/mo
Hmm ok. So I would need $3500 for the max MSDs I'm assuming.
Can you advise as to how much further I should try to negotiate? Thus far I have not asked for a price reduction.
Hi guys, first time posting here, the info I've seen is very helpful!
I'm in the market for a 2015 328i xDrive, 36 months, 15k miles.
The printout I got from the dealer said the car's MSRP is $45495 (including $995 destination charge)
I asked for the monthly payment and details, but the dealer did not give me fees. She rolled all the incentives and fees into the monthly payment, and gave me a quote for $531/month.
These are the parameters she said she used (Chicago tax included).
No money down, no first payment, no security deposit, only need to pay doc fees and plates, about $437.
Is this a good deal? I wanted to get closer to $400, how close to that can I probably get? I have not done any negotiations yet.
Is the MSRP $45,495 or $47,600? Either way, what you need to know is the CAP cost. That's the selling price plus everything else.
And, if you want to be close to $400/mo., you need to pick a cheaper car.
The MSRP is $45,495. I'm guessing she added all the fees and counted it as the MSRP to make it look like she was giving me a bigger discount?
I would assume the CAP cost is the $42500 because the $531 she quoted me includes everything except doc fees and plates. If this doesn't sound right let me know and I will ask her.
Also, I am aware $400/month is unreasonable, but would it be a stretch to get the payment with taxes down to $450/month?
Also are her residual/MF numbers correct?
I confirm the MF and residual numbers quoted to you. With your MSRP and cap cost, I get $489/mo before tax. You may want to consider using MSD to buy down the MF and get a lower payment - max MSD would take the pre-tax payment down to $454/mo
Hmm ok. So I would need $3500 for the max MSDs I'm assuming.
Can you advise as to how much further I should try to negotiate? Thus far I have not asked for a price reduction.
Thanks for the help so far
Usually, 5-7% off sticker is pretty good for a BMW - you can try for more.
Hi guys, first time posting here, the info I've seen is very helpful!
I'm in the market for a 2015 328i xDrive, 36 months, 15k miles.
The printout I got from the dealer said the car's MSRP is $45495 (including $995 destination charge)
I asked for the monthly payment and details, but the dealer did not give me fees. She rolled all the incentives and fees into the monthly payment, and gave me a quote for $531/month.
These are the parameters she said she used (Chicago tax included).
No money down, no first payment, no security deposit, only need to pay doc fees and plates, about $437.
Is this a good deal? I wanted to get closer to $400, how close to that can I probably get? I have not done any negotiations yet.
Is the MSRP $45,495 or $47,600? Either way, what you need to know is the CAP cost. That's the selling price plus everything else.
And, if you want to be close to $400/mo., you need to pick a cheaper car.
The MSRP is $45,495. I'm guessing she added all the fees and counted it as the MSRP to make it look like she was giving me a bigger discount?
I would assume the CAP cost is the $42500 because the $531 she quoted me includes everything except doc fees and plates. If this doesn't sound right let me know and I will ask her.
Also, I am aware $400/month is unreasonable, but would it be a stretch to get the payment with taxes down to $450/month?
Also are her residual/MF numbers correct?
I confirm the MF and residual numbers quoted to you. With your MSRP and cap cost, I get $489/mo before tax. You may want to consider using MSD to buy down the MF and get a lower payment - max MSD would take the pre-tax payment down to $454/mo
Hmm ok. So I would need $3500 for the max MSDs I'm assuming.
Can you advise as to how much further I should try to negotiate? Thus far I have not asked for a price reduction.
Thanks for the help so far
Usually, 5-7% off sticker is pretty good for a BMW - you can try for more.
Yes, $3500 for MSD.
If she added money (fees) to the actual MSRP ($45495) to get to $47600, then the actual CAP cost of the vehicle without fees would be $42500-$2105 (fees) = $40395.
That means she already gave me a ($40395/$45495) = 11.8% discount. However, there is a $1000 incentive going on right now, and if that's been applied she gave me a ($41395/45495) = 9% discount.
So basically I'm not in much of a position to negotiate?
Hi guys, first time posting here, the info I've seen is very helpful!
I'm in the market for a 2015 328i xDrive, 36 months, 15k miles.
The printout I got from the dealer said the car's MSRP is $45495 (including $995 destination charge)
I asked for the monthly payment and details, but the dealer did not give me fees. She rolled all the incentives and fees into the monthly payment, and gave me a quote for $531/month.
These are the parameters she said she used (Chicago tax included).
No money down, no first payment, no security deposit, only need to pay doc fees and plates, about $437.
Is this a good deal? I wanted to get closer to $400, how close to that can I probably get? I have not done any negotiations yet.
Is the MSRP $45,495 or $47,600? Either way, what you need to know is the CAP cost. That's the selling price plus everything else.
And, if you want to be close to $400/mo., you need to pick a cheaper car.
The MSRP is $45,495. I'm guessing she added all the fees and counted it as the MSRP to make it look like she was giving me a bigger discount?
I would assume the CAP cost is the $42500 because the $531 she quoted me includes everything except doc fees and plates. If this doesn't sound right let me know and I will ask her.
Also, I am aware $400/month is unreasonable, but would it be a stretch to get the payment with taxes down to $450/month?
Also are her residual/MF numbers correct?
I confirm the MF and residual numbers quoted to you. With your MSRP and cap cost, I get $489/mo before tax. You may want to consider using MSD to buy down the MF and get a lower payment - max MSD would take the pre-tax payment down to $454/mo
Hmm ok. So I would need $3500 for the max MSDs I'm assuming.
Can you advise as to how much further I should try to negotiate? Thus far I have not asked for a price reduction.
Thanks for the help so far
Usually, 5-7% off sticker is pretty good for a BMW - you can try for more.
Yes, $3500 for MSD.
If she added money (fees) to the actual MSRP ($45495) to get to $47600, then the actual CAP cost of the vehicle without fees would be $42500-$2105 (fees) = $40395.
That means she already gave me a ($40395/$45495) = 11.8% discount. However, there is a $1000 incentive going on right now, and if that's been applied she gave me a ($41395/45495) = 9% discount.
So basically I'm not in much of a position to negotiate?
You don't manipulate the MSRP - that number is the bottom line of the window sticker. You do look like you've got a decent discount from the MSRP, however. Never hurts to see if the dealer is willing to give more. You might have more luck as you get closer to the end of the month.
This forum has been immensely helpful, particularly the mods and folks who posted their deals. I'm posting the deal I signed this weekend to help those wondering if its best to get a 2015 or wait for a 2016.
2015 335i xDrive
Jet Black
Sport Line
Tech pkg
Cold Weather pkg
Driver Assistance pkg
Premium pkg
Black kidney grill
M Sport Brakes
MSRP: $56,530
Invoice: $52,609
Sale price (pre-rebates): invoice
Rebates: $2,000 (build out and Drive for Team USA)
Cap cost: $50,609
36 months / 12 k miles
Residual: 64%
MF Base: 0.00130
MSD: 7 payments
Adjusted MF: 0.0080
Due at inception: $4,876.93 (doc, registration, acquisition fee, 7 MSDs, first payment waived by BMW)
Monthly payment: $ 498.84 (MI tax included 6%)
Overall I feel pretty good about this one. With rebates and first payment waived by BMW, I paid $2,500 under invoice.
This forum has been immensely helpful, particularly the mods and folks who posted their deals. I'm posting the deal I signed this weekend to help those wondering if its best to get a 2015 or wait for a 2016.
2015 335i xDrive
Jet Black
Sport Line
Tech pkg
Cold Weather pkg
Driver Assistance pkg
Premium pkg
Black kidney grill
M Sport Brakes
MSRP: $56,530
Invoice: $52,609
Sale price (pre-rebates): invoice
Rebates: $2,000 (build out and Drive for Team USA)
Cap cost: $50,609
36 months / 12 k miles
Residual: 64%
MF Base: 0.00130
MSD: 7 payments
Adjusted MF: 0.0080
Due at inception: $4,876.93 (doc, registration, acquisition fee, 7 MSDs, first payment waived by BMW)
Monthly payment: $ 498.84 (MI tax included 6%)
Overall I feel pretty good about this one. With rebates and first payment waived by BMW, I paid $2,500 under invoice.
Hope this helps others.
Wow - great deal. Under $500/mo (with tax!) for a car that stickers at $56K is not bad at all.
This forum has been immensely helpful, particularly the mods and folks who posted their deals. I'm posting the deal I signed this weekend to help those wondering if its best to get a 2015 or wait for a 2016.
2015 335i xDrive
Jet Black
Sport Line
Tech pkg
Cold Weather pkg
Driver Assistance pkg
Premium pkg
Black kidney grill
M Sport Brakes
MSRP: $56,530
Invoice: $52,609
Sale price (pre-rebates): invoice
Rebates: $2,000 (build out and Drive for Team USA)
Cap cost: $50,609
36 months / 12 k miles
Residual: 64%
MF Base: 0.00130
MSD: 7 payments
Adjusted MF: 0.0080
Due at inception: $4,876.93 (doc, registration, acquisition fee, 7 MSDs, first payment waived by BMW)
Monthly payment: $ 498.84 (MI tax included 6%)
Overall I feel pretty good about this one. With rebates and first payment waived by BMW, I paid $2,500 under invoice.
Hope this helps others.
Nice deal! Kind of strange that I am looking at a 328xi for a Cap cost of $42k, and am paying basically the same amount. I'm doing something wrong..
I am thinking of doing the following:
$531 monthly - $19 (reducing from 15k to 12k miles) - $28 (Drive for team USA) - $32 (7 MSDs) - $55 (reducing car cost by $2000) = $395/month
Is there any way to know what the invoice is? Thinking of just saying I will only pay $500 above invoice.
It depends on whether you are doing the multiple MSDs. I prefer not to and I'm looking at $535 for a 2015 335i xDrive that's a k more than boss' MSRP with inception and tax up front and I'm very happy with that #.
If your deal is structured similarly for a 328 than yeah you should keep negotiating IMHO. BTW my deal is 36/10 and NY sales tax so my up front comes to $3500.
It depends on whether you are doing the multiple MSDs. I prefer not to and I'm looking at $535 for a 2015 335i xDrive that's a k more than boss' MSRP with inception and tax up front and I'm very happy with that #.
If your deal is structured similarly for a 328 than yeah you should keep negotiating IMHO. BTW my deal is 36/10 and NY sales tax so my up front comes to $3500.
Is it typically difficult to negotiate down to invoice price (over email)?
Tough question I have a good grasp of the #s so I find that I negotiate best face to face after I get to my desired cap cost range via phone or email. If you have an easier time via email then there's nothing wrong with expressing your serious interested and desired #s via email as long as you are prepared to keep it slightly open ended and stick to your guns in person.
Tough question I have a good grasp of the #s so I find that I negotiate best face to face after I get to my desired cap cost range via phone or email. If you have an easier time via email then there's nothing wrong with expressing your serious interested and desired #s via email as long as you are prepared to keep it slightly open ended and stick to your guns in person.
What has your experience been like so far?
Well I've kept it through email so far. I found out that she added navigation which is why the MSRP is $2150 higher than originally. I'm thinking to ask her to cut off $2000 since I never asked for navigation.
Maybe I should try a mass email to several different dealerships.
I think you'll get better numbers from each dealership if you keep the threads separate. You could certainly ask each to match a better quote from the other but I wouldn't include them all in the same email.
Don't know if she'll do that re nav but you could always ask her to find a different car or look through their inventory yourself online?
From your original post I see that even on the more expensive car you're getting a 10% discount from the MSRP. That's pretty good IMHO. You should see if that includes the 1k build out (probably does) and see if you can do the Drive for Team USA event or get that credit.
invoice: $35,000 msrp: $39,700 down: $3,000 (bank fee, doc fee, dmv, tax, 1st month payment) california tax: 9.5% monthly payment: $400 15K miles / year x 36 months.
residual: $24,490
I purchased the wear and tear protection package for $800. Car has run flat tires, which means i don't have to replace at end of lease. Broken windshield, brakes, scratches, dings dents, tires all are covered. Just hand them the key no questions asked at end of lease.
What state is this? What is the full breakdown of the $3000 down?
Tough question I have a good grasp of the #s so I find that I negotiate best face to face after I get to my desired cap cost range via phone or email. If you have an easier time via email then there's nothing wrong with expressing your serious interested and desired #s via email as long as you are prepared to keep it slightly open ended and stick to your guns in person.
What has your experience been like so far?
Well I've kept it through email so far. I found out that she added navigation which is why the MSRP is $2150 higher than originally. I'm thinking to ask her to cut off $2000 since I never asked for navigation.
Maybe I should try a mass email to several different dealerships.
Here's what I did - hopefully that sheds some light on how to approach:
Step 1: review this forum to know the base MF, residual, incentives/rebates and impact of MSDs Step 2: Looked at the inventory of all dealers in a 150 miles radius from my home, identified 5 dealers that met two criteria: (i) had at least one car with the specs I wanted and (ii) had at least five 2015 335i's (which means that they have too many 2015s, and with 340i just around the corner, they are motivated to move them). Step 3: called each dealer and figured out the name of the new car sales manager, his/her email address and phone Step 4: called directly all 5 managers and said that I was going to close a car this weekend. It's important to talk to the manager because that typically means that the dealer would not have to pay commission to a CA, so the manager can give you a deeper discount. In the call with each manager I confirmed (i) the car's options (ii) the manager's email address and (iii) reinforced that I'm a serious buyer and that this was an opportunity to move a 2015 before the 16s arrive Step 5: Sent all 5 managers separate emails with the VIN of the car I wanted and the price I wanted to pay (invoice minus rebates). Also included a simulation of the lease using base MF and Residual. This shows them that I know the base numbers and that I won't eat inflated numbers. I gave them my cell and told them call me if they wanted to move the the car today with this exact deal. I used an iphone app called Leasematic to create the lease summary (I have no relationship with the app developer) Step 6: Got 3 calls back. Two offered Invoice + 500, one offered Invoice + 1000. Told them all that their offers were not enough, and said it is Invoice or no deal. Step 7: After some haggling one manager accepted the deal. I asked for a simulation of the lease with their own spreadsheet / system. She tried to inflate the MF. I pointed it out. She adjusted back to base. We scheduled time next day to see the car and sign the papers. I sent the credit app filled out in advance so that she could input it in BMWFS's system and get the approval before I showed up next day. Step 8: Got to the dealer next day 9am. My lease was already approved by BWMFS. I was out at 9:45am driving my new car.
Overall this process took me 1 day of prep (steps 1 through 3) and 1 day to execute.
Tough question I have a good grasp of the #s so I find that I negotiate best face to face after I get to my desired cap cost range via phone or email. If you have an easier time via email then there's nothing wrong with expressing your serious interested and desired #s via email as long as you are prepared to keep it slightly open ended and stick to your guns in person.
What has your experience been like so far?
Well I've kept it through email so far. I found out that she added navigation which is why the MSRP is $2150 higher than originally. I'm thinking to ask her to cut off $2000 since I never asked for navigation.
Maybe I should try a mass email to several different dealerships.
Here's what I did - hopefully that sheds some light on how to approach:
Step 1: review this forum to know the base MF, residual, incentives/rebates and impact of MSDs Step 2: Looked at the inventory of all dealers in a 150 miles radius from my home, identified 5 dealers that met two criteria: (i) had at least one car with the specs I wanted and (ii) had at least five 2015 335i's (which means that they have too many 2015s, and with 340i just around the corner, they are motivated to move them). Step 3: called each dealer and figured out the name of the new car sales manager, his/her email address and phone Step 4: called directly all 5 managers and said that I was going to close a car this weekend. It's important to talk to the manager because that typically means that the dealer would not have to pay commission to a CA, so the manager can give you a deeper discount. In the call with each manager I confirmed (i) the car's options (ii) the manager's email address and (iii) reinforced that I'm a serious buyer and that this was an opportunity to move a 2015 before the 16s arrive Step 5: Sent all 5 managers separate emails with the VIN of the car I wanted and the price I wanted to pay (invoice minus rebates). Also included a simulation of the lease using base MF and Residual. This shows them that I know the base numbers and that I won't eat inflated numbers. I gave them my cell and told them call me if they wanted to move the the car today with this exact deal. I used an iphone app called Leasematic to create the lease summary (I have no relationship with the app developer) Step 6: Got 3 calls back. Two offered Invoice + 500, one offered Invoice + 1000. Told them all that their offers were not enough, and said it is Invoice or no deal. Step 7: After some haggling one manager accepted the deal. I asked for a simulation of the lease with their own spreadsheet / system. She tried to inflate the MF. I pointed it out. She adjusted back to base. We scheduled time next day to see the car and sign the papers. I sent the credit app filled out in advance so that she could input it in BMWFS's system and get the approval before I showed up next day. Step 8: Got to the dealer next day 9am. My lease was already approved by BWMFS. I was out at 9:45am driving my new car.
Overall this process took me 1 day of prep (steps 1 through 3) and 1 day to execute.
Hope this helps
Very nicely documented. Most of these steps would work for any make / model of car, with two exceptions:
1) Bank must offer an MSD program 2) Outgoing model to be replaced with a new model (335i > 340i)
you guys are phenomenal, i have pulled the trigger on the 328i Imperial Blue, will post the pictures when they come in.
kyfdx, Michaell and everyone here thank you so so much.
Is there a dealer forum where i can share some experiences here in Norcal. I know bimmerfest has one but would love to contribute to the forum that has helped me the most.
you guys are phenomenal, i have pulled the trigger on the 328i Imperial Blue, will post the pictures when they come in.
kyfdx, Michaell and everyone here thank you so so much.
Is there a dealer forum where i can share some experiences here in Norcal. I know bimmerfest has one but would love to contribute to the forum that has helped me the most.
I'm sure the information is in the feed somewhere..but.. I'm looking for the Residual and MF for the 320i xDrive: 36/12 and 39/12 (if that is a option) I'm consider BMW for the first time. Pennsylvania here. Appears some dealers are selling at invoice and using the $1000 incentive towards the down payment creating a sign and drive type of deal.
I'm sure the information is in the feed somewhere..but.. I'm looking for the Residual and MF for the 320i xDrive: 36/12 and 39/12 (if that is a option) I'm consider BMW for the first time. Pennsylvania here. Appears some dealers are selling at invoice and using the $1000 incentive towards the down payment creating a sign and drive type of deal.
2015 320xi = .00130 and 63% for 36/12. BMW does not offer 39 month leases. $1000 buildout cash.
Hi everybody. I got a lease deal of 2015 328i xdrive Msrp 52100 Discount 7300 Selling 44800 Rv. 64% Mf. 0.00130 Drive. Off 1360 (0 down, first month waved) Monthly. 419 + tax = 446 Is this. A. Good deal?
Hi everybody. I got a lease deal of 2015 328i xdrive Msrp 52100 Discount 7300 Selling 44800 Rv. 64% Mf. 0.00130 Drive. Off 1360 (0 down, first month waved) Monthly. 419 + tax = 446 Is this. A. Good deal?
The dealer has quoted to me the following: The MSRP is - $41,215 Sale price offered to me 38215 Down payment: $3000 Monthly payment - $386.86 Due on delivery - $3837.90 Mileage - 10000 miles Duration - 36 months
Is this a good deal? How should I negotiate a better sale price or what sale price should I aim to realistically achieve?
Hi I am planning to offer the following deal for a 2015 320i Demo car with 3000 mile Will it be ridiculous to offer it MSRP 39650 Selling price 31500 MF 0.0013 Residual 65% Residual value 25772 Lease 36/10k Upfront fee 1139 ( First month Doc fee registration ) Monthly payment 248.73 Will the dealer accept it Thanks
The dealer has quoted to me the following: The MSRP is - $41,215 Sale price offered to me 38215 Down payment: $3000 Monthly payment - $386.86 Due on delivery - $3837.90 Mileage - 10000 miles Duration - 36 months
Is this a good deal? How should I negotiate a better sale price or what sale price should I aim to realistically achieve?
Please help.
Is $3000 the total amount due at signing?
If so, it's a decent deal. .00130 MF and 64% residual. $1000 buildout cash.
Hi I am planning to offer the following deal for a 2015 320i Demo car with 3000 mile Will it be ridiculous to offer it MSRP 39650 Selling price 31500 MF 0.0013 Residual 65% Residual value 25772 Lease 36/10k Upfront fee 1139 ( First month Doc fee registration ) Monthly payment 248.73 Will the dealer accept it Thanks
The residual will be reduced to account for the current mileage.. $600-$900, at least..
I don't know if it's ridiculous, but I doubt that will be accepted.
Residual: 65% 10,000 miles per year MF: .0013 $0 down, only paying 1st month payment $535/month (includes all taxes and fees)
Those numbers give me $426/mo before tax.
What is the net cap cost? What state and tax rate is this?
It's Maryland (6%). So the taxes are $2,672. Acquisition fee of $925. Adjusted residual is $32,480.50. Another $624 is fees (doc fee; $300, govt fees $351, $500 upfront payment then offset by a $500 USAA rebate of $500).
Comments
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
Numbers are .00130 and 62% for 36/15.
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Can you advise as to how much further I should try to negotiate? Thus far I have not asked for a price reduction.
Thanks for the help so far
Yes, $3500 for MSD.
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That means she already gave me a ($40395/$45495) = 11.8% discount. However, there is a $1000 incentive going on right now, and if that's been applied she gave me a ($41395/45495) = 9% discount.
So basically I'm not in much of a position to negotiate?
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Enjoy your new BMW!
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I am thinking of doing the following:
$531 monthly - $19 (reducing from 15k to 12k miles) - $28 (Drive for team USA) - $32 (7 MSDs) - $55 (reducing car cost by $2000) = $395/month
Is there any way to know what the invoice is? Thinking of just saying I will only pay $500 above invoice.
It depends on whether you are doing the multiple MSDs. I prefer not to and I'm looking at $535 for a 2015 335i xDrive that's a k more than boss' MSRP with inception and tax up front and I'm very happy with that #.
If your deal is structured similarly for a 328 than yeah you should keep negotiating IMHO. BTW my deal is 36/10 and NY sales tax so my up front comes to $3500.
What has your experience been like so far?
Maybe I should try a mass email to several different dealerships.
Don't know if she'll do that re nav but you could always ask her to find a different car or look through their inventory yourself online?
From your original post I see that even on the more expensive car you're getting a 10% discount from the MSRP. That's pretty good IMHO. You should see if that includes the 1k build out (probably does) and see if you can do the Drive for Team USA event or get that credit.
I defer to the mods for more advice.
But, sounds like you've both developed a process that seems to be working.
At some point, you've got to go to the dealer and work with them face-to-face.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
Please let me know if this is a good deal. Thank you for the help.
Model : 328i
MSRP : 39545
Residual: 65%
MF : 0.00130
36 months with 12K/year
First Month out of the pocket: 850
Monthly payment: 384+CA tax
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
Step 1: review this forum to know the base MF, residual, incentives/rebates and impact of MSDs
Step 2: Looked at the inventory of all dealers in a 150 miles radius from my home, identified 5 dealers that met two criteria: (i) had at least one car with the specs I wanted and (ii) had at least five 2015 335i's (which means that they have too many 2015s, and with 340i just around the corner, they are motivated to move them).
Step 3: called each dealer and figured out the name of the new car sales manager, his/her email address and phone
Step 4: called directly all 5 managers and said that I was going to close a car this weekend. It's important to talk to the manager because that typically means that the dealer would not have to pay commission to a CA, so the manager can give you a deeper discount. In the call with each manager I confirmed (i) the car's options (ii) the manager's email address and (iii) reinforced that I'm a serious buyer and that this was an opportunity to move a 2015 before the 16s arrive
Step 5: Sent all 5 managers separate emails with the VIN of the car I wanted and the price I wanted to pay (invoice minus rebates). Also included a simulation of the lease using base MF and Residual. This shows them that I know the base numbers and that I won't eat inflated numbers. I gave them my cell and told them call me if they wanted to move the the car today with this exact deal. I used an iphone app called Leasematic to create the lease summary (I have no relationship with the app developer)
Step 6: Got 3 calls back. Two offered Invoice + 500, one offered Invoice + 1000. Told them all that their offers were not enough, and said it is Invoice or no deal.
Step 7: After some haggling one manager accepted the deal. I asked for a simulation of the lease with their own spreadsheet / system. She tried to inflate the MF. I pointed it out. She adjusted back to base. We scheduled time next day to see the car and sign the papers. I sent the credit app filled out in advance so that she could input it in BMWFS's system and get the approval before I showed up next day.
Step 8: Got to the dealer next day 9am. My lease was already approved by BWMFS. I was out at 9:45am driving my new car.
Overall this process took me 1 day of prep (steps 1 through 3) and 1 day to execute.
Hope this helps
1) Bank must offer an MSD program
2) Outgoing model to be replaced with a new model (335i > 340i)
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
36/10 and 12, 24/10 and 12?
Thank you!
Add 1% for 10K. $1000 build out credit.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
you guys are phenomenal, i have pulled the trigger on the 328i Imperial Blue, will post the pictures when they come in.
kyfdx, Michaell and everyone here thank you so so much.
Is there a dealer forum where i can share some experiences here in Norcal. I know bimmerfest has one but would love to contribute to the forum that has helped me the most.
http://www.edmunds.com/dealer-reviews/
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Thank you
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
Use the "Car Research" tab at the top of the page to link to the Edmunds incentive pages.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
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MSRP of $45,245
36/12
MF .13
Residual 64%
7% tax
Due at signing: $1000 (Dealer Service Fee, Tags, New Plates, Registration, Title, etc..)
Monthly Payment: $510 (including tax)
I calculate this to be a net cap cost of around 42,800 which would be a 5.5% reduction off MSRP plus the $1000 build out cash
That seems reasonable.
Msrp 52100
Discount 7300
Selling 44800
Rv. 64%
Mf. 0.00130
Drive. Off 1360 (0 down, first month waved)
Monthly. 419 + tax = 446
Is this. A. Good deal?
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Add 2% for 12k
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
I'm new to this country and leasing my first car.
This BMW 320i xdrive special edition is available for lease - http://www.bmwofannarbor.com/new/BMW/2015-BMW-320i+xDrive-ann+arbor+mi-ba74a1570a0a0002001c7a81a82e5e45.html
The dealer has quoted to me the following:
The MSRP is - $41,215
Sale price offered to me 38215
Down payment: $3000
Monthly payment - $386.86
Due on delivery - $3837.90
Mileage - 10000 miles
Duration - 36 months
Is this a good deal? How should I negotiate a better sale price or what sale price should I aim to realistically achieve?
Please help.
I am planning to offer the following deal for a 2015 320i Demo car with 3000 mile
Will it be ridiculous to offer it
MSRP 39650
Selling price 31500
MF 0.0013
Residual 65%
Residual value 25772
Lease 36/10k
Upfront fee 1139 ( First month Doc fee registration )
Monthly payment 248.73
Will the dealer accept it
Thanks
If so, it's a decent deal. .00130 MF and 64% residual. $1000 buildout cash.
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I don't know if it's ridiculous, but I doubt that will be accepted.
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2015 328 XI
36 month lease
MSRP: $49,970
Price paid: $44,227
Residual: 65%
10,000 miles per year
MF: .0013
$0 down, only paying 1st month payment
$535/month (includes all taxes and fees)
What is the net cap cost? What state and tax rate is this?
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige