Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options

Buying Tips - How Do I Get the Best Deal?

1969799101102

Comments

  • Options
    snakeweaselsnakeweasel Member Posts: 19,351
    meaning makes the car look better/sharper than a competitor's without. Not that hard to understand.

    Sorry but its hard to understand how something that is unnoticed when your more than ten feet away makes a car look better/sharper. Also the fact that it makes the car look better/sharper is completely subjective.

    A dealer can offer a product configured any way he sees fit.

    Agree but is it a meaningful configuration and does the customer have a choice in the configuration?

    Never heard a dealer say its "needed".

    Having it on every car they sell implies that it is needed. Basically "we don't sell it without it, take it or leave it" is pretty much the same as "it's needed".

    Again, not that hard to understand, and not illegal or illegitimate.

    I will agree its not illegal, but I have to disagree that it it legitimate as the reality of the situation it doesn't truly improve the car. Its not hard to understand.

    2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D

  • Options
    jwilliams2jwilliams2 Member Posts: 910
    Sorry but its hard to understand how something that is unnoticed when your more than ten feet away makes a car look better/sharper. Also the fact that it makes the car look better/sharper is completely subjective.

    Well, most folks get closer than ten feet to the car they are considering buying. And you are correct, the addition of pinstripes are subjective, but in some applications, they do improve the looks of the car, and many people like them.

    And as I said, it is the dealers choice to market his product as he sees fit. The consumer has the choice to either buy the car as is, or refuse to pay for unwanted extra equipment. The consumer can also choose to buy at another dealer.

    So to call it illegitimate, is really a stretch. I personally would not pay for them, so I would exercise my right to not pay or go elsewhere. You can certainly do the same. I think we have beat this to death, so lets move on. :shades:
  • Options
    jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,251
    The consumer has the choice to either buy the car as is, or refuse to pay for unwanted extra equipment.

    Like I posted earlier, most consumers will end up paying for those add-ons whether the dealer waives the fee or not. He'll just tack the cost on somewhere else. The sales manager will not drop the price of the car as much, or he will insist on a full doc. fee instead of a discount. They aren't going to give you something for free.
    It's a good bargaining ploy as well. The sales manager says that he waived $2,000 worth of dealer installed options, now why can't you the consumer meet him halfway on price.

    Us savvy Edmunds buyers will have a smart out the door price that doesn't include any money for dealer add ons. That way we know the add-ons aren't being sneaked in somewhere else. Still probably better to shop somewhere else.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • Options
    verdugoverdugo Member Posts: 2,286
    Still probably better to shop somewhere else.

    Amen. In the back of my mind, I'd keep thinking "If they already tried pulling a fast one, what else are they going to try?"

    IMHO, a transaction requires a degree of trust. Once they start playing tricks, I take my business elsewhere.
  • Options
    blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    You know, it always amazes me that many people (myself included) will hone in on just one aspect of a commercial transaction (say, "price") and not look at the whole picture such as shopping the financing as carefully as you shop the price, getting a "free loaner" promise in writing, discussing the level of "free gas" in the gas tank upon delivery, etc. etc. I will see working families complete with hungry, wailing babies in dealerships waiting to get "approved" for a specific payment and I shudder. All in all, people should sloooow it way down and do way more research.

    I think that when people put their blinders on, they tend to focus usually too much on just one part of the transaction and then can get blindsided.
  • Options
    jwilliams2jwilliams2 Member Posts: 910
    I think that when people put their blinders on, they tend to focus usually too much on just one part of the transaction and then can get blindsided

    Totally agree.

    "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former". -Albert Einstein
  • Options
    blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    You know the quickest way to get a dealer sales guy to lose interest is to tell him that you want to order a car to your spec and that you are willing to wait. He knows that he can't make money from a guy like that. The sales guy can only thrive on the impulse buyers whose only car is now on the lift at an automatice transmission shop, whose kids are wailing away, and it is way past supper time.
  • Options
    mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    You know the quickest way to get a dealer sales guy to lose interest is to tell him that you want to order a car to your spec and that you are willing to wait. He knows that he can't make money from a guy like that. The sales guy can only thrive on the impulse buyers whose only car is now on the lift at an automatic transmission shop, whose kids are wailing away, and it is way past supper time.

    Now why would you want to do something that would cause the sales guy to lose interest. In my past experience ordering to specs is very profitable for the sales guy. Granted, they don't make an immediate sale, but it's still big bucks for them. Any what's your point?
  • Options
    jwilliams2jwilliams2 Member Posts: 910
    Well, it depends. Some European imports do a big percentage of sales as ordered cars, especially when new models are released. So losing interest would be the wrong thing to do.
  • Options
    joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    I disagree 110%. Order units are great. They are like money in the bank for the next month.
  • Options
    lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I disagree 110%. Order units are great. They are like money in the bank for the next month.

    Joel and other salesfolks,
    Do you think that varies by region or dealership?

    I get the sense that you and explorer and isellhondas and volvomax have been at the same dealer, well, since the earth cooled (smart a** comments aside, I think that is a good thing overall). Here in Michigan, I have noticed that is much more "normal" where the sales guy I bought my last car from was still there when I was looking for the next one, but in some places, things are more churn and burn. I think the turnover is so high at some of the dealers that the salesfolks don't want to do the orders because they don't know they will be there next month.

    Do you see that as a possibility?
  • Options
    joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    I think that is a definite possibility. That also speaks volumes about the ownership/management at the store you are dealing with.
  • Options
    jkumpire24jkumpire24 Member Posts: 17
    I don;t have a lot of cash but I am looking at a new car. I have never owned one, so even if I take a bath on depreciation, so what.

    I have been looking around, and I still see some 2007 or 2008 new cars/never titled cars on lots (with 1 or 5 or 10 miles on them, so they are not dealer cars and the like). With the 2010 models about to come out, some of these new cars are now 2 or 3 years old.

    How can I determine what a good price for these cars are to talk to a sales person? It seems to me that if a car is a 2008 new car, they want it gone. I am willing to look, but I want to get a lower price. But before I talk to them, I need to have an idea of what kind of deal the dealer will take to get their problem off the lot.

    Thanks for your help! :confuse:
  • Options
    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Check out our TMV new car prices, used car pricing, used car values at Edmunds. You will also find valuable information in our model specific "prices paid" forums.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Options
    jkumpire24jkumpire24 Member Posts: 17
    tidester,

    The links you posted are okay, but not adequate. I've seen them and did research on them, but the kind of cars I am talking about are now old cars, never titled, but have been on a lot for years. Are they invoiced as new cars, used cars, or somewhere in between?
  • Options
    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Are they invoiced as new cars, used cars, or somewhere in between?

    Never been titled? Have you looked at their odometers? That should give you some indication.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Options
    jkumpire24jkumpire24 Member Posts: 17
    Tidestar,

    The cars I am discussing have not been titled, the one I saw with the highest mileage was 236 miles. My first thought was then,"ok invoice them as new cars." But how can you justify talking about a new car invoice price when the thing is 2+ years old? If they can't sell this 2008, or even 2007 model car that is new and untitled, do I really have to go in and discuss a price based on the 2008 or 2007 invoice price?

    My first thought is that is at least 15 or 20% off the invoice immediately when I start talking turkey. And the price goes down from there. Is this off base? Or should I treat these older new cars pricing wise as used models? Usually all the better.

    Thanks for the help, and folks please add you .02 here
  • Options
    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,026
    This really becomes personal preference, in my experience. The dealer wants to price as new, but I would price as used. After all, once you drive it off the lot, it does not matter that you bought it new, it is now worth the same as a used car.

    So, take used car value and add for low miles.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Options
    imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,180
    >So, take used car value and add for low miles.

    I'm with you on this. A two year old car is two years old on the used market once it's off the dealer's lot or the check clears. ;)

    My thinking is price it at used and add for low miles and extra clean--sort of 'like new' condition! The dealer probably won't want to view it that way because they're getting a fixed spiff from the factory to move the older ones.

    That spiff might even be listed in the incentives list here on Edmunds.
    http://www.edmunds.com/incentives/RebateController?step=1&tid=edmunds.n.incentiv- esindex.incentives.1.1.*&setzip=45322&zipcode_submit=Go

    I see $4250 on a 2008 Equinox and 1000$ if you own 1999 or newer GM car.
    I also saw Hyundai has some 2008 models listed.

    There may still be spiffs to the dealer that aren't publicized on Edmunds where they get help from the company to move those older, aged cars off their lots.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Options
    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I agree with qbrozen and imidizol.

    Incidentally, would the dealer be giving you the full new car warranty?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Options
    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,026
    Incidentally, would the dealer be giving you the full new car warranty?

    If it truly never was title, yes, they absolutely should be.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Options
    kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 239,354
    .. if they were truly willing to deal on those cars, would they still be on the lot?

    Doubt they'll make a good deal, or those cars would already be gone..

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • Options
    isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    If these cars have been sitting on the lots this long they are probably cars nobody wants.

    There is a reason for everything.
  • Options
    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,026
    .. if they were truly willing to deal on those cars, would they still be on the lot?

    I agree. However, I figure there has to be a point at which they finally cave. I mean, its either take the loss now; send it to auction and get even less; or have it auctioned off by the bankruptcy court. I can't profess to know much about this kind of stuff, but I would think option A is the way to go.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Options
    omegagenomegagen Member Posts: 67
    I too am looking at a leftover 2008, a Charger SRT-8 Super Bee. TMV assumes that the car is used. Now what????
  • Options
    madmanmoomadmanmoo Member Posts: 2,039
    Panic.

    Then make an offer.
  • Options
    omegagenomegagen Member Posts: 67
    Huh? That's not helpful...at all!!!
  • Options
    jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,251
    Huh? That's not helpful...at all!!!

    With a user name like madmanmoo... what'd you expect?

    With a user name like jipster... I'm bound by trade laws to suggest low balling the dealership, then walking away to let them sweat it out. :P
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • Options
    madmanmoomadmanmoo Member Posts: 2,039
    Lol,

    Okay, I'll try to be helpful. In a situation like that, come up with what you think would be reasonable and make that offer. If you don't feel like doing that, then ask them for their clearance special. Surely they must be motivated to move that vehicle, if it doesn't fit what you think is fair, then walk away.

    In my professional opinion, I think you should find an '09 and work a deal on that. I don't think any kind of discount would make up for the depreciation that the '08 vehicle is going to take when you drive off the lot.

    Oh, and if none of this helps, then start panicking.
  • Options
    dhamiltondhamilton Member Posts: 878
    what a good deal is first. Being confident in that is the first step!!!!
  • Options
    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,026
    Some of us gave our opinions in the posts above yours. We also consider it used (or I shoudl say worth the same as used), so TMV would apply. If you feel differently, then only you can decide what the car is worth to you.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Options
    waathaqwaathaq Member Posts: 3
    I would like to purchase a new Saturn Aura XR with the 3.6 l engine. I wonder if anyone knows whether it is possible to haggle at their dealerships? I have the GM Card and now have $3,000 in credit to apply to the purchase and want to know how likely it is that I can bargain the price down from the MSRP. Any information anyone has about his would be appreciated.
  • Options
    isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    If you try to haggle, you would be defeating the "Saturn way of doing business" where everyone pays MSRP!

    This is what they are all about, isn't it?
  • Options
    jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,251
    it is that I can bargain the price down from the MSRP

    The price of the car is only one piece of the pie. If you have a trade-in, try to haggle more money for your trade. Try to get the dealership to waive their doc. fee. Ask for 2 years free oil changes, extra set of floor mats or keys, a trip to Cancun... etc.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • Options
    imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,180
    >how likely it is that I can bargain the price down from the MSRP

    Just tell them what you want. Ignore the schtick about no haggling. Then walk out. Make sure they have you phone number as part of the dialogue.

    Your use of $3000 may be limited to a certain dollar value instead of the whole $3000. That's why I have no GM card anymore. I cancelled it; my longest credit card just to let them Know I didn't like their new policy.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Options
    oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Member Posts: 22,778
    "...Ordered units are great..."

    Really? In my experience, when I've mentioned ordering, the salesguy has reacted like I just threw acid in his face. I've had them go so far as to lie to me and tell me the car I wanted wasn't being made any more so I would have to select from in-stock units. :mad:

    Maybe I'll come see you next time. :)

    2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible

  • Options
    joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    Thats because who ever you are dealing at does not see the big picture and is living in a now, now, now world. :D
  • Options
    snakeweaselsnakeweasel Member Posts: 19,351
    Thats because who ever you are dealing at does not see the big picture and is living in a now, now, now world

    Like 90% of the population.

    2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D

  • Options
    204meca204meca Member Posts: 369
    I am a member of an organization that has VIP pricing w Subaru. As a member I am entitled to a price "2% below dealer invoice". have 2 questions regarding using this program:

    1. Is the "dealer invoice" the same as the invoice prices I find on Edmunds when I go to build a car?

    2. In the past I have been pretty successful in negotiating prices significantly below invoice. But I am in the market for a 2010 Forester or Outback, both which are selling very well so I may be less successful at getting a great price on my own. At what point should I say "I have a VIP Subaru pricing. So me starting point for negotion on this price is 2% below your invoice". Should inform them as soon as the conversation starts or go through the dance 1st?

    Any other suggestions welcomed -- thanks!
  • Options
    nortsr1nortsr1 Member Posts: 1,060
    I have used the Chevrolet Employee price and Ford X Plans several times and have found the Edmunds invoice prices to be almost identical to the dealers invoice (providing you have the exact same accessories listed). The dealer should be willing to show you his Subaru invoice and then deduct the 2% and don't forget to also subtract the incentives, rebates or whatever. The Forester and Outback are selling very well??? That's questionable. Check your dealers inventory on the net thru Edmunds. I am certain this is a good a time as any to deal with ANY car dealer.
  • Options
    verdugoverdugo Member Posts: 2,286
    IIRC Subaru VIP pricing was "at a no-haggle price of dealer invoice cost,", not "2% below dealer invoice." (confirmed by a quick google search)

    They also said that dealers were not required to participate, and it was up to dealer to include all models.

    Even though they are selling well (nortsr1, Subaru is the only make with a sales increase), a lot of it is from the Impreza. If you are buying one of the higher end models, it shouldn't be difficult to get VIP pricing.

    My opinion? Be upfront with the dealer. You are unlikely to get much better than dealer invoice. The outback is brand new (it arrives this week or so), and the Forrester is also new.

    If you are one of those people who like to squeeze every single dollar from the deal, by all means grind away first. I value my time, and don't think you can do better than dealer invoice cost.

    Finally, I don't think the invoice price you see in Edmunds is the same as dealer invoice cost, but somebody in the biz is better suited than me to answer it.
  • Options
    volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Edmunds does not include the advertising charges that appear on the dealer invoice.
    The only reason they don't is that these charges vary from region to region and Edmunds can't be bothered to get all of them and come up with a way to let you know what the cost is in your area.
    Otherwise, you should be able to match up whatever the invoice is on Edmunds with the real one at the dealer.
    Also, these buyer plans aren't a point to open negotiations with, they are a one price, one size fits all way to buy a car. So, be up front if you are eligible.
  • Options
    movinout77movinout77 Member Posts: 14
    What should my strategy be?
    - cash payment
    - no good at haggling, no time for games
    - timing – test drive, rebates, demand surge from cash for clunkers

    Hi, everyone. I believe the answer I’m seeking doesn’t apply to any one brand. I’ve also read the car-buying strategy guide, but am not sure how certain things apply to me and the current times.

    I’m in the NY metro area, never bought or owned my own car, and have gotten by without a car for several years now, but I’m going to need one within the next couple of months (would’ve preferred to have had one a few months ago, but I’ve gotten by). I’m also in the beginning stages of buying a house.

    I wish to pay for my car (Corolla / Civic / Mazda 3) in *cash*, and since I’ll be applying for a mortgage soon, I’d strongly prefer that my credit not be checked by the dealer lest such an inquiry lower my score.

    And since I don’t have time for the usual car-buying games that I hear about, or that much willpower in terms of haggling, I’m tempted to go the fixed price route to buy (e.g., carmax, AAA, Costco). Although I won’t get the absolute best deal, would this be a reasonable option for my situation?

    Alternatively, I can pit dealers against each other through the internet as is commonly recommended, but then a few other questions arise…
    - If I play the strategy by-the-book and wait until the last possible minute to say that it’s a cash purchase, is it likely that the price originally quoted won’t be honored since it might assume a profit off financing that won't happen? I’d hate to waste time pursuing an unrealistic deal.
    - The test drive - The car that was originally my first choice, 2010 automatic Corolla S in blue, seems rather rare and I’ve been reading quite a few bad things about its power steering. I’d hate to go through the trouble of a bidding war only to test drive it and learn that it drives like a shopping cart. I’m not sure when to do the test drive. I’m afraid that if I just walk in and ask for one, that that sales person would be the one handling my sale and not the internet person, who seems to be more willing to negotiate.

    I suppose I could find a dealership that I have virtually no interest in buying from to do it, but the steering issues seem to occur at highway speeds, and this place isn’t anywhere near where I’d be able to do even 55 mph.

    Lastly, I’ve had trouble timing this whole thing. I first decided on the Corolla at the very end of June, when they were giving $500 cash back on the ‘10’s. There’s no way I would’ve had my finances in order to complete a purchase by the time that offer expired, so I waited out the unimpressive July deals and now I’m stuck in August. This cash-for-clunkers thing has really put me in a bind. I’m not sure if cash-back rebates are typically only for those who finance with the car company. If they are, then that won’t factor too much into the timing (meaning I wasted a month for nothing) . But, with the surge in demand for compact cars, I have much less negotiating power than I did just two weeks ago. And, there aren’t even rebates on the ‘09’s anymore. Should I wait all this out – maybe even until the ‘10’ Civics come out, or should I just get this purchase over with knowing that the market may be recovering?

    OK, I’ve analyzed this to death. If anyone has any ideas to share, I’d greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
  • Options
    grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    The car that was originally my first choice, 2010 automatic Corolla S in blue, seems rather rare and I’ve been reading quite a few bad things about its power steering.

    Don't let that put you off what is otherwise a fine car. I think the major problem with the Corolla's steering is that it is different. It does take a little while to adapt to it if you are used to a car which does not have Electric Power Steering. Once you are used to it there is no problem, I speak from personal experience. Five years from now, maybe less, most cars will have Electric Power Steering, it is an energy saving feature.
  • Options
    delthekingdeltheking Member Posts: 1,152
    If you are buying a new car,things are much easy.Carmax is the best absolutely for new cars.Lowest prices,no upselling,good interest rates and fixed pricing.
    So buy at Carmax.Also Fitzmall is close in Wasington DC metro area -don`t know how far u are from them but they also are very good for new cars.Their online fixed price is pretty good.
    Hope this helps.
  • Options
    percussionistpercussionist Member Posts: 204
    I would also recommend Fitzmall or Carmax if you want to avoid haggling (Fitzmall would be better in my opinion - you could take the train down and drive home).

    Since you don't own a car now, cash for clunkers does not affect you in any way. You will not get that rebate.

    There is no reason for a dealer to run a credit check on you, but if you really want to make sure, then run your own credit report (which costs $15-$30, but does not lower your score). If you are buying a house and looking for a mortgage, you should do this anyway (be an informed consumer). This way, you bring your credit report with you to the dealer. If your credit is great and there is a zero percent financing deal, take it and use your cash for the house instead.

    All the cars you discussed are great cars - go drive them and pick the one you like. Buying a car isn't that hard - just know what you want and what is an acceptable deal for you, and you'll do fine. Good luck!
  • Options
    movinout77movinout77 Member Posts: 14
    Thanks. I checked into both Fitzmall and Carmax. Unfortunately, carmax only seems to have LE's. Silly as it sounds, I like the spoiler and rims that come with the S version. But maybe the LE's on Carmax have these since the MSRP shown suggests that there are more options than what they list.

    Fitzmall, while 4 hours away, seems appealing. I can get a ride from my fiancee. Not that I necessarily want/need it, but I can get the car I want with a moonroof for what I was expecting to pay w/o one. And with lower sales tax and less chance of BS fees being tacked on, I'd do pretty well. I'd hate to go all the way there, test drive, and not like it.

    The one that I'm interested is in Pennsylvania. One of my back-ups is the Mazda3 and they have decent prices on those as well, in their store 1 hour away from PA in Maryland.

    As for the rebates, I wasn't refering to cash-for-clunkers. Those only go to folks who have cars that get 18mpg's or less. I don't get $4,500 for being green and choosing to take the bus the past 7 years. :mad: But at the end of June, when it occurred to me to look into buying a car, it seems they were giving back $1,500 on the '09 Corollas and $500 on the '10's. No such rebates now.

    I have no idea whether the rebates were conditional on financing the car through Toyota or whether they applied to cash purchases too. If it's the latter, I'm miffed at myself for not thinking to act sooner. After the rebates went away in July, I thought to wait until August when I figured they'd have better deals again. The cash-for-clunkers thing really threw a monkey wrench into my plans. Rebates or not, my negotiating power is not what it would've been in June. As I said earlier, I may wait for this surge to pass, but I can't wait forever.

    As for the other stuff, I did have my credit checked out just a few weeks ago for the mortgage stuff. If anyone asks to see it, I can show them my unofficial printout, I guess. I just can't tap into any credit right now, even with the great financing deals. Real estate prices are still ridiculous in NY/NJ, and I can't get a decent house if there's evidence that I'm taking on any debt other than the mortgage.

    Thanks.
  • Options
    dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Try your local dealership. Do some research on Edmunds first to find out what people are paying for a Corolla S or whatever car you are interested in. Tell them you want to pay cash and you don't have a clunker. They may be willing to take your offer, if it is reasonable, since it will require less paperwork.
  • Options
    210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    On the sales tax issue, you won't save anything by purchasing out of state. PA and MD are likely the same as VA, my home state. If you buy a car here, you pay only a nominal fee for temporary plates good for 30 days. When you return to NY, you have to register the car there and pay the NY sales tax and registration fees. Some states require you to do this within 10-20 days, even though the out-of-state plate hasn't yet expired, so you may want to check first.
  • Options
    movinout77movinout77 Member Posts: 14
    Yeah, I remembered the sales tax thing after I posted, which stinks since I can't imagine a higher tax than NYC's.

    And if I remember what I read correctly, the usual strategy is to mention at the last possible minute that you're paying cash. Should I be more upfront about it? Mentioning it before agreeing on a price means they could pad the price a bit by trying to make up for what they couldn't profit from me with finance charges. Then again, by not mentioning it, they can reneg on the agreed price and try to bump me anyway, which would waste everyone's time.

    The dealers in my area are sleezy - especially the ones closest to me. I'd prefer not to play with those guys if I didn't have to -- esp. now since buyers like me are in what I think is a weak negotiating position. I guess it couldn't hurt to try them, but I'm thinking of waiting for this wave to pass.
Sign In or Register to comment.