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AAA was awesome and we were in the car in less than 24 hours. No need to go through F&I at the dealership was a bonus too. The dealer was Fisher Honda in Boulder and their rep was awesome too.
I learned a lot from the whole process this time. I think we did alright and love the CR-V so far. Thanks for everyone's input. Maybe this info will help other buyers out there.
New here, loving this forum so far.
Anyway, I got a quote for a Honda CRV EX AWD. I'm in Northern VA.
$24,588
+ 689 Processing
+ $389 Accessories (dealer installed mud flaps and wheel locks)
+ $83.75 VA Registration
+ $1,095.93 VA Tax
= $26,845.68 OTD
Seems like a good price but I feel I could do better given the high fees and the accessories. What do you think?
Thanks!
NoVA is well known for aggressive Honda prices - I'd skim back a few pages to late May to get a feel for the deals, and aim for $2,000 below invoice.
You can get invoice and TMV prices here.
Welcome to the funhouse.
Thanks!
In your area, I'd email a bunch of dealers and get quotes and then shop the quotes.
Thank you in advance!
Your taxes are around 10%, so your selling price is around $23,700, give or take.
From my guesswork, you have a good price.
Let us know how it goes at the dealer.
Could I have gone lower? Maybe by waiting for the end of this month! DFW area dealers were not flexible with pricing compared to what we hear from other parts of the country.
Junk accessories (see my earlier posts or look at any Honda new inventory on DFW dealer websites) are included even if you don't want them. I have a feeling that all DFW Honda (or even Texas) dealers have colluded to add these accessories. Pretty much every single dealer has the same ones. Even when you want them removed, they say the price will be the same. Funnily enough the bill of sale doesn't list any accessories or even destination. It just lists a total sales price, TTL, and doc fee.
But, all said and done, you have a nice shiny new car. Enjoy!
When is the next time to try for a the best deal? I know the end of month but is it better to aim for the end of September if I am not in a rush?
The end of the month is good because dealers are trying to make their quotas and earn bonus money. But the equation is changing a bit.
SUV (and truck) sales are still strong but car sales are down. In theory, a slower market should help all buyers but the CR-V is a bit insulated from market dynamics due to their high demand. Honda dealers are in a good position with strong Civic sales too, and a new pickup is coming out. That said, we see some aggressive prices from some Honda dealers around the country - I think some have figured out that they can make a lot on volume without grinding out for the last dollar.
The third variable that says to wait, is that the closer you get to the new model year, the less interest there will be in the 2016 models and less demand will ease prices. And there may be more incentive money from Honda (both to consumers and to dealers) to move the 2016's. The flip side is that inventory choices will be more limited.
This is just the obvious stuff that you already know. The problem with waiting is that you don't get to enjoy a new car now. And there may be something about the 2017s that interests you enough to convince you to just pay closer to MSRP for the latest and greatest.
And if you wait, some oddball event, like another Japanese earthquake. could happen and slow production for a month and drive a bump in prices.
I think I'd set a target OTD price and email that around to your dealers. If they don't accept, let it sit for a couple of weeks and then contact the sales manager (or internet sales manager if the store has one - often they are just regular salespeople) and remind them that you are ready to buy today if they will meet your price. Rinse and repeat. If you don't get anywhere that way, at least you are just killing time with emails and avoiding the showroom while waiting for the end of the model year close-outs.
Base: 24171
Doc: 80
Taxes: 2122
DMV: 284
OTD: 26657
Here was the sticker:
Factory: MSRP was $27,295 + $900 destination = $28,195.
Dealer Add Ons: $699 (3M?) + $199 Prep + $0 Pro Pack + $329 VSP recovery
Total Sticker (Including dealer add-ons): $29,422
The $699 was some clear coat thing they applied on the door edges, around the door handles and around the back hatch/bumper area. The $329 (I think) was window etching.
What I ultimately paid (before trade in):
a) $24,350 price (including destination)
b) $150 document fee (junk fee -- which at one point they actually said was "for the ladies in the back")
c) $195 for Title/License Fees (dealer gets to retain $2.50 of that)
d) $2,312 for sales tax
So $27,007 out the door with taxes with the actual price before taxes and DMV being $24,500 ($24,350 + $150).
In their first price estimate, they included the window etching for $329 (we do this for every car on the lot!). I refused and said I would not pay it. They then offered a long list of accessories (I declined). We then set the price and finance rate (0.9% for 60 months).
At that point, I offered to trade in my 2001 CRV LX AWD with 160k miles (needed a deep clean, brakes and potentially new rotors, had some serious scratches on the hood) for $1,400. They offered $800. I declined and simply said I would sell it myself. After about 20 minutes, they asked what was the minimum I would take. I said, $1,000 and they agreed.
They also wanted me to talk to some All State insurance guy located in house. I spoke briefly and declined everything. At finance, they politely offered all manner of upsells (extended warranties, pre-paid maintenance, a special wax/sealant that lasts a lifetime, various other protections). Finance was pleasant -- they did their pitch but did not argue when I declined.
And nice work avoiding the junk fees.
Sales Price: $23,864.93
Document Processing Fee $80.00
Sales Tax $2,035.32
Electronic Vehicle Registration or Transfer Charge $29.00
Vehicle License Fees $158.00
Registration/Transfer/Titling Fees $102.00
California Tire Fees $8.75
OTD Price: 26,311.91
Sacramento, CA 95831
Did I get a good price?
Now go cruise P Street and show off your new finery.
Got quote from Honda dealer on 2016 CRV SE, in area code 39047 for $23,500 OTD. This includes all taxes and fees, extras included lifetime powertrain extended warranty, and full set of rubber honda floor mats, unlimited car washes, and 6 oil changes. Is this a good deal? Thanks
It looks like 39047 is in Mississippi. And they seem to have a low sales tax rate (5%), but slightly unusual rules:
“The state sales tax rate is 5% and is based on the dealer’s selling price before subtracting any dealer's discounts and trade-ins.”
The invoice price for the SE with FWD, including destination of course, is $23,951.
Let’s assume sales tax of $1,100, and approximately $300 for license plates, dealer doc fees, etc.
$23,500 OTD
-1100 sales tax
-300 plates, doc fees, etc
====
$22,100
$23,951 invoice
-22,100 your price (guessing)
===
$1,851 under invoice. If they don’t spring any surprises on you when you go in to sign the paperwork and pick it up, I would say this is a very nice deal. Enjoy your new ride!
2016 CRV SE FWD
Price Vehicle $22,770
Doc Fee $179
Sales Tax $551
Total $23,500
(Looks like you're out by Barnett Reservoir - I was living in MS when he was governor. Yeah, I'm a dinosaur. Go cruise the Trace and break it in.
Bought Honda CR-V EX FWD in Houston last week of June 2016, Total drive out 25875.
msrp 26895
final price 22737 discount 4157
dest 900
doc/regi 453
tax 1480
extras 300
total DO 25875 0.9% loan
includes propackage cargo tray, mudguard, wheel lock, Tint, fabric protection, windshield protection and others dealer price 1299 real price probably about 500-600)
Is this good deal?
Thanks in advance.
Invoice is $25,459 (base plus destination plus a $150 ad fee) and TMV is 25,184 for a Houston zip.
So, you did fine - about $1,500 below invoice. That's good for Texas. Congrats!
You paid $22,737 plus $900 (destination), or $23,637. This looks like $1,671 below invoice, which is very good. However, your total, here in Houston, should look more like this:
$23,637 actual price
$1,480 state sales tax at 6.25%
$300 (license plates, title application, various dealer doc fees)
===
$25,417 OTD
By my calculations, they got you for an extra $458 somewhere along the line. Most of which seems to be covered in your “extras 300”, whatever that is.
If we back out the $458 from your $1,671 below invoice number, you are now at $1,213 below invoice. The world is full of people who would be very happy to get a new CR-V at $1,213 below invoice, so you did good. Enjoy your new ride, take a drive down to Galveston or Surfside!
And might I inquire which Honda dealer here in Houston?
I believe list is $34,295
What is a good price? Also, some dealers add $998.00 to price for mudflaps, all weather mats, trunk liner and paint guard. What do you think this is really worth?
Thanks for your help!
Bryan
The mudflaps and mats are worth maybe $50. The paint guard is completely worthless imho. You can look up Honda accessories online and get MSRP prices on the flaps and mats and often find official ones cheaper than MSRP.
You have another issue to deal with too. Florida is notorious for outrageous doc fees. Any doc fee over $50 is just more dealer profit. Somehow Florida dealers have gotten away with ripping off their customers down there for years now with $600 to $900 doc fees. Check out this Toyota dealer for more.
Okay, enough of my rants. Invoice is $32,236 and TMV is $32,921. TMV isn't great for your zip either - we see below invoice deals up in the DC area with the TMV average around invoice (meaning quite a few buyers are getting the $1,500 below invoice deals).
One way to avoid haggling every fee is to decide on a good out the door price and ask the dealers for their beset OTD number (say, invoice plus taxes and nothing else).
You may have to work hard for a good deal down there - besides the usual emailing a bunch of dealers, you may want to try one of our Price Promise certificates or checks out a Costco or AAA or other deal. That might cut to the chase a bit.
If you aren't in any hurry, the best deals happen at month end when dealers may need to make sales quota for bonus money.
I bought a 2016 CR-V Touring AWD last week. It was manufactured in 03/16. IT VIBRATES when it's on idle @ 800 RPM:(
Please test drive your CR-V extensively before buying. I hate to take the new CR-V to service.
Invoice + .01 cent sale= $32,236.06
Add-ons= $642.51....pin stripe, mud flaps, trunk liner, moonroof visor, wheel locks, lifetime powertrain and paint protect
Doc fee: $649.00
total = $33,527.58
Second quote Sam Boswell Honda Enterprise, AL
sale price= $31,592
Add-ons $988.00 trunk liner, flaps, paint protect, mats
Doc fee 489.00
total= $33.069.66
Thoughts?
Thanks
Bryan
I am 2 hrs from Mobile, Tallahassee, 5 from Atlanta or New Orleans
Sounds like the Alabama dealers are copying the Florida dealers with the junk fees.
I dunno, we just don't see too many great deals down in the Deep South - hard to know why. Maybe try countering with an OTD price that cuts most of the propack and doc fees and see if anyone bites.
Destin has grown/changed over last many years. Still use necks for crabs! Still just as good!
(the deal and the crabs)
I visited couple of dealerships this weekend in Bayarea (SouthBay Honda and Capitol Honda) both of the them had extra 2K markup on their vehicles for "Protection Package". From what I understand, this package includes mud guards, clear coat on the paint? What are your opinions on this?
If I want to buy the 2016's then should I still go with these type of dealerships and ask them to deduct the protection package amount? Or should I steer clear from these types of dealerships? How do I approach this?
If they get you to focus on things like that, then they've done their job.
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Tinted windows
Splash guards
Body side moulding (to avoid all the dings my current crv has from inattentive people)
Door edge film and/or guards (not sure if these are necessary)
All season floor mats
Cargo tray
Remote start
How much can I expect to negotiate prices on these? More than likely I won't get the remote system but it sounds nice.
Thanks in advance for any insight you can share!
We don't know your taxes and fees in 'Nati. Your taxes will be around 8% and your doc fees are capped at $250. Your average DMV fee is $48. At least that's what our (What New Car Fees Should You Pay?) article says.
So the drill is for you to look at invoice and TMV and figure out a selling price that you are comfortable with. Then add in the doc fees and taxes to get your OTD number.
OTD is code for "give me your best prices and don't play games when I go to pay". Unfortunately some dealers pretend that they don't understand the code, so stay sharp in the F&I office when you sign the paperwork.
Let's say you go for a Touring AWD in zip 45205. Invoice (with the $900 destination) is $32,236, MSRP is $34,295 and the TMV average is $32,463.
Buyers in other parts of the country are getting $1,000 to $2,000 off invoice. Since TMV is higher than invoice, let's assume that your local Honda dealers aren't as aggressive as others so let's shoot for $1,000 below invoice for a selling price of $31,236.
So, $31,236 plus $2499 in taxes plus $250 doc fee plus $48 DMV fee comes out to $34,033.
You'll need to double-check those numbers (especially the taxes) but assuming that scenario above is correct, a good deal would be $34,000. So you'd counter the dealer's opening quote at $33,500 and work your way up slowly.
When I lived in the UP a few years back, I shopped CR-Vs in Ashland and in Madtown (fun place, lived there for a few months back in the 80s and have camped right in town several times in recent years).
I didn't really consider Chicago for shopping although I did online shop in Milwaukee.
Ashland was surprisingly competitive for a small town and the dealer sold Toyota and Honda, which was a new one on me. So don't rule out Green Bay and other small WI towns when you get quotes, if you decide to buy up north.
The dealer in Madison was good too. We opted for another (used) minivan to move south in so didn't really get too deep in the numbers, but going on my experience, I'd wait and buy in Wisconsin because I think the deals may be a bit better (best check and compare TMV for specific zip codes though).
The other advantage about buying in Wisconsin is that the lemon law in most states only applies if you buy the car where you live. Wisconsin used to let new residents take advantage of the lemon law but I read somewhere a couple of years back that they changed their law. You'd still have your warranty law claims if you buy in TX, but the lemon law process would be easier I think if you wound up with a bad Honda (rare, but one bullet point for your spreadsheet).
The advantage of buying in TX is that you avoid having to fly, avoid TSA, and you won't be as rushed into buying something or stuck in a rental car while you shop. And you'd get to enjoy a road trip unless you're going to be in a rush to get there.
Don't know about the registration. It's very possible that you'd save some money by buying in Wisconsin and registering it there, instead of buying in TX. The taxes will probably wash out, and you may be able to get a temp tag in Texas and avoid TX registration fees. For that question, I'd suggest reading the Wisconsin DMV web site and then maybe calling emailing DMV and get the scoop. If you don't get a tax credit by moving to WI, that could cost you. You have to pay attention to stuff like 90 day limits.