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I decided to take it apart and succeeded at that. Nothing appeared to be broken inside and the contact points actually looked almost pristine. I gave it an initial spray on all the works with electrical contact cleaner. To my amazement that let the works be adjusted although it was still somewhat balky. I have a can of product here called Faderlube which is used for rheostats in stereo equipment, so I gave the works a shot of that. Now it moved smoothly. I put a few drops of some light oil where it looked like it would do some good. It was then really smooth in movement and I could see the balance wheel swinging away and hear it ticking.
I got my 12V power supply connected to it and it is running... like a clock! The points fire every minute or so and it is keeping good time so far. I figure I'll let it run for a day or so and see what happens. If it is still good I'll clean it up cosmetically, make sure the points look as good under magnification as I think they do or else file them a bit, and put it all back together before getting it into the dash. Seems like success so far!
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
Ours had a white vinyl interior with (IIRC) a blue dash.
2024 Ram 1500 Longhorn, 2019 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2019 Ford Mustang GT Premium, 2016 Kia Optima SX, 2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
ab348--It is always satisfying when you are pleasantly surprised that you've been able to fix something that you were skeptical about touching. Great job! I imagine that the inner workings of the clock are the same as many GM cars. I recall the clock in our '69 Olds 98 and '72 Cutlass needing constant adjustment. They were supposed to be self correcting, but would always gain or lose time over a relatively short period of time. Mom was always fussing that the clock could not be trusted and was always having to adjust the time.
On a similar theme, I fixed the spin/stop blade on my Toro lawn mower this weekend. The lawn mower has been fairly trouble free until last year when I spent about 1/2 of the cost of a new one to repair the self propel mechanism. When the blade started to stall my wife said junk it and buy new, enough already. Since I was prepared to do year end maintenance, oil change, blade sharpening, etc. I thought I'd give it a try. After removing the blade, there is a cover over the stop/spin clutch. I found a piece of junk in there. Removed it, cleaned as much as I could access, put back together. It works perfectly.
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
Here's the car looking sharp, set off by a newly paved parking lot on a crisp early fall day:
The factory 8-track player also impedes access so after about 30 minutes of so of trying to even see the screws much less get a hand on them I decided to remove it. That part of the job was only slightly painful and took maybe 20 minutes. I discovered I could see the 2 screws through gaps between the underside of the dash and the steering column. But you could only use 1 hand to remove them and after much trial and error found that the only tool that would work was a tiny 1/4" box end wrench. Not much swing possible, maybe an inch or so at a time. Finally after standing on my head under the dash for an hour or so I got them out.
As the saying goes, installation is the reverse of removal except that one of the screws not only secures the clock but also holds a ground wire for the lamps and a ground strap for the clock power. Trying to get that right while looking thru a tiny gap in the bottom of the dash and also getting it to find the screw hole in the case using one hand was great fun and I can't tell you how many attempts it took but eventually I hit paydirt much to my amazement. Figure it took about 2 1/2 hours all told and I still have to reinstall the 8-track tomorrow. What fun. Hope it's not something I have to do again any time soon.
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
Engine was a ZZ5 backed by a built 700r4, so about $7000-$7500 there. Whole new frame, airbag suspension, etc. Everything was new except the cab, basically. Not even sure why the heck they needed to buy a complete truck to start with. I suppose that allows you to register it as a '49, though.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I like the functional landau bars too. Last of the prewar influence. Not going to be sporty, but that isn't always the point.
True. Some cars are designed to facilitate sleeping at the wheel.
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
200 inches long
4300 pounds
138 HP
drum brakes
0-60 in 17 sec.
Compared to a fintail, it's a lump. The typical fintail might have similar HP, 1500 lbs less weight, and front disk brakes.
For the cars I listed, I would rather have a ponton cabrio or the 280SE, but an Adenauer would knock their socks off at your local MBCA event.
For 150K I could also assemble a nice little MB collection - pristine fintail, maybe a nice W111 coupe, maybe a semi-exotic 6.3, an early AMG car, and still have quite a bit left over for other cars.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1961-STUDEBAKER-CHAMP-PICKUP-198059
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
Here's a '61 brochure photo with whitewalls. This is the old double-walled bed. Just a personal thing, but I never liked how in '61 only they moved the bright molding above the crease on the front fenders--they did that on the Lark that year too. They brought it back to the normal place for '62.
http://www.oldcarbrochures.org/var/albums/NA/Studebaker/1961 Studebaker/1961-Studebaker-Champ-Trucks-Specs/1961 Studebaker Champ Trucks Specs-01.jpg?m=1378820323
Is that a bypass oil filter?
Of course then in the '80s and '90s you began to see stuff about how cheaply made they were internally and how they weren't as good as either (a) they used to be or (b) they claimed to be. It really can't be that hard to make a good oil filter compared to making a chintzy one, so that was all about cost-cutting. And it really damaged their brand.
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
The last van needed a new distributor as it hit 200k but it was the AC dying that caused us to sell it. Bet that Nissan engine is still running strong for the kid that got it. And in a mere 8 years, it'll be a classic.
But, like Shifty noted, it probably hasn't seen any real miles, so it would take so long for the added wear to mean anything.... We'll all be using transporters by then!
I found a pic on my phone of the Studie pickup I was parked next to at a show back in July. It was really, really nice, restored by an older fellow who was a Studebaker fan,. This is one of a few Studes he has:
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6