About the Rover if it is really a 1969 model then it is a Series IIA not a Series II. There are some minor differances.
Secondly Series vehicles are only Defenders if they have coil springs and that did not happen till about 1983. Even then they were not officialy called Defenders untill 1990.
I wouldn't want to buy a vehicle from someone who has taken it apart so completely and is ignorant of those facts.
To get crazy money for your car, you have to sell it to your own. I was at the BMW 2002 thing in SLO, CA a few years ago and someone sold an 88 M5 for in the low 30s. Admittedly, it was beautiful but that is a lot of money. The same with the Audis that get teased. If you go to Audifans, things sell on there for relatively high prices. If you find someone that really wants what you have and believes the gospel from the product, the $$$ will follow. Trying to get 15k for a specialty car on craigslist is dumb and the guy is a cheapskate for not advertising it the way he should. He will probably get bummed out because its not bringing what he wants instead of joining BMWCCA and advertising it there.
...check saabnet sometime; by some of the asking prices, you'd think these people were driving the holy grail, rather than some moody, unreliable thing that costs twice its retail value for most repairs.
Yeah but those prices (and who knows if they even sell at that price) are for very special, over-the-top, modified/restored cars brought up to fanatical levels of perfection with staggering cost. They aren't even M5s anymore, really--I know what you're talking about, and that $30K car cost someone $40K to build, at least.
But this guy's M5 is just a stock car in nice condition. And having a black interior hardly justifies the "only 156 made", as if the color of the interior matters at all to value....of course that's sillly.
Ditto the Saab people---I've seen old 900 Turbo 5 door hatches converted to rebuilt 5 speeds from automatics, with the newer 16valve engines installed, all kinds of handling, performance mods, special wheels, restored inside and out and underneath....basically a new and improved Saab for 1/2 the cost of the new ones. So I can see the justification for the asking prices.
In the same way the marque fanatics worship on the altar of their gospels, and pay big bucks for their "religion", so to these same people can spot a false god and scoff at the wannabee who thinks HIS M5 or Saab is worth the same as those of the Anointed Ones.
It's funny...on the MB forums I have observed, the prices often are actually lower than CL or from clueless curbstoners. It's almost as old MB people would rather just pass it on to another enthusiast than gouge too hard. This is especially true with diesels, which seem much cheaper from MB people than from shady sellers.
I think even the most rabid Mercedes enthusiast can't get up the nerve to tout an old Benz diesel as anything valuable...but some curbstoners have cashed in on the somewhat naive nature of biodiesel afficienados.
I've seen the CL nutjobs with their biodiesel come-on asking 10K+ for 123 wagons, and some joker wanted 15K for a 190D! (201)
The priciest 123 wagon I have seen to confirm was a $7500 example, and it was pristine, black on palomino, under 100K miles, all maintenance up to date.
MB people seem to over-value pontons, 126 coupes and late sedans, and 560SLs.
The first two I get to help buy, and maybe get to drive on occasion. The third is for me.
A friend is looking to buy a chrome bumpered MGB for his father-in-law. Is this where the market is on these? What should I check on these?
The same friend is still looking for a '58 Vette. He went to look at this one a month or so ago, and the guy said there was no way he would go below $50K. My friend was willing to go up to $45K which seemed like enough to me.
This '89 944 might be worth checking out now. Last auction, he was asking almost $9,000, so I didn't bother with it. Maybe he is coming to his senses a little bit.
I don't know prices, but for the MG and Porsche, they look to be about as clean as you are going to find. And these are 2 cars that i would pay a little extra for to get a super clean babied unit, that has had the expensive stuff already done for me!
At least a B is still easy to work on and relatively cheap to fix. A true benefit of a car about as complicated as a tractor.
I think 550 is about double a real world price. Judging by the wheels and the seats, the car probably has no performance options either. Still...I love looking at it.
No I think you're assessment on the MGB is quite accurate, very good. The market for these cars is all over the place...MGBs seem to come in three basic flavors...1) patched up old rat not worth saving (2) amateur restorations to daily driver status with questionable modifications, and 3) full bore restorations that cost more than the car is worth. You just don't see "survivors" or original cars, and you rarely see really top notch work on these cars.
GULLWING -- totally dingbat price. Looks like $190K-225K car all the way, maybe $250K at a drunken orgy type auction, maybe $275K for a stunning restoration (You need to really examine these cars, especially to see if the tubular frame has been butchered). It also looks like an early model car. Add $5,000 for belly pans. Nothin' special about it really. These cars are always for sale it seems. What you really want is the 300SL roadster. It costs less, drives better and is way more comfortable inside.
I actually still have an original workshop manual for this car.
Hmhhh got any directions to these drunken orgy type auctions???
Ok about the MGB and just MG's in general I guess I have a couple of questions.
If someone wanted to build a MG for a little fun in the sun car that might see the occasional autoX track or general track day...
1. What year/model would be the best one to pick? 2. Should I stick with the original engine for simplicity sake? 3. If I decided to go with a modern engine swap what would be a good choice?
I would want to use a little 4 cylinder that has good power but is fairly common. What about a Miata engine?
if you want to go to all the trouble to engineer in a Miata engine, just buy the Miata engine in the first place.
Probably for a bit there are kits for a V8 swap (not what you want for AutoX of course). I think Shifty has mentioned seeing a mazda rotary in a B. That sounds neat if you can buy a well designed kit, otherwise not for the faint of heart. If nothing else, it should fit with room to spare.
If it were me, I would get a late 60's-early 70's chrome bumper car, so it at least has the more modern suspension (shocks)and will probably be a little tougher. I would also keep the engine, and add some easy to do go-fast parts (Moss will sell you as many as you can afford). The bottom end on these things must be darned near indestructible.
There's nothing wrong with the MGB engine...it's torquey, tough as nails and if set up right will perform just as well as any 4. Engine conversions just ruin MGBs, which are approaching collectible status. To do an engine swap would be borderline barbaric IMHO :P
You can build an MGB engine up to around 140HP for the track and there aren't too many modern 4s that are much better than that...of course that 140HP 1.8 engine won't be all that streetable.
Best years...well, I'd say 1967 to 1974, but of course if you can avoid engines with air pumps all the better.
Some people put Webers on these engines but all they've done is spend a lot of $$$ to get 3 HP at very high rpm, and it sinks the gas mileage into the pits. Hardly worth it.
Aside from all kinds of engine mods you can do, you can buy more effective shocks and springs and many many other upgrades. The parts supply and modifications supply for MGBs are almost endless. Aside from the old VW bug and the Mustang, the MGB probably has the best aftermarket support in the entire world. Anything you need for that car (EVEN an entirely NEW metal body!!) can be delivered to your door UPS in a couple of days....ANY part!
Ok that is kind of what I thought so I am glad it was confirmed.
Keep the original engine avoid the smog cars and update all of the suspension compenents. I would put a roll cage in the car too to make my wife feel better. I doubt I would do too much to the motor besdes what was necessary to keep it running smoothly.
Well, as soon as I get the electric hooked up out in my new garage, I'm planning on holding one, so just email me if you want to be put on the Evite! :P
so I went to check out that '81 F150 that was listed on Ebay for $699.
I guess, for the money, it could have been worse. He did a full tune-up on it. It ran kinda rough still, though, but the tranny worked flawlessly.
The biggest issue is that he told me he replaced the steering pump to fix a leak. Well, I had to let him know he replaced it for no reason because it was actually the steering box that was leaking. And nothing minor, either. I was actually watching the beads of fluid form and drop off the car. And this was before it was even running. I'd hate to think of the severity of that leak once it was actually hot.
Anyway, I decided that my money would be better spent elsewhere. I've seen plenty of pickups in the $1k range. Just gotta get out and starting checking them out in person.
there's a '65 F150 in the auto shopper, but the wife says we are buying a work horse, not a collectible that I'll want to sink money into. Of course, she's right, but I'm still upset about it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
1988 Ferrari 328GTS. I would call it a parts car if all the parts weren't so screwed up.
Murcielago with roof and suspension damage. Did it maybe just bump a curb and get in a little hail storm? The pictures make it look a little more serious than that.
How much for brand new Z4 that was in a street water flood? Not $19,500 from me.
Could be a like new M5 that just needs a new and a tiny bit of body work for only $16,900. Anyone want to take that chance?
Some of these cars even come with clean carfaxes. Instills confidence, doesn't it?
It looks like he put another 5K miles on it since he started the Auto Trader ad, but is unwilling to go exactly $1.00 below his asking price. Based on the pictures, I think this car is in my neighborhood. Theoretically, I could see it from my house.
I was thinking it would be nice to have for $6-$7,000. Shows what I know.
'88 Ferrari 328 GTS--- totalled, easily. Parts car. You can buy a nice one for maybe $45,000, so you've got $30,000 here to fix body, suspension and possibly engine? No way. Actual value of this car, not running? Maybe $5,000. Running well? It might be worth $10,000. The back bumper alone is $4,000 easy, and engine rebuilds start at around $30K. Fan belts are $100 each, and no, you can't get them anywhere else.
That one looks questionable in the pictures. Is the driver side door shut? I bet up close it looks worse.
I always wonder about the ones that need to be cleaned. Is it really that much trouble to clean your car before you sell it? If it is too much trouble at that point, it has probably been too much trouble to clean for the whole period of ownership.
Looks good from far away but it has all kinds of snarky crap on it that makes me wonder about this "doctor" story. I see aftermarket gauge, sloppy non-factory paint in the engine compartment, and very rough surfaces at the door hinges, dented fender wells, rusty wire wheels....I dunno....if there's NO RUST (one cause of a weird gap in the door openings) and it runs and shifts well, I guess you can't go wrong at the price. But it doesn't look like the kind of car you'd restore. (These are unibodies and the rear fenders are not detachable (you cut 'em off, so fixing chassis or body rust ain't easy.)
One really bad thing I notice is that in the back end photo, you can't see the vertical line that should be between the gas cap and the reversing light lens. This is where the fender joins the rear apron---so it's been filled with body filler. Worth checking this area out with a magnet.
Good idea about the wrecking yard. I've received quotes of around $400.00 for the carburetor. I hope we are not wasting out time on this one. Thanks for your comments.
The thing is, that's pretty much unavoidable on these. Its just a matter of, if it was repaired, when and how well? The rocker panels, trunk, and floor will all rust, without a doubt, no way around it (unless you find one that lived its whole life in the southwest, but then it will rust the minute you get it here). SO, the trick is to get it for a price that compensates for getting the body redone. If its mechanically sound, it at least has something going for it. If you have a good body man that will do you a big favor, or if you can do it yourself (as was the case with my Alfa), then you can come out OK on the deal if you are careful.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
2002 Tii -- I dunno about this one. Tempting but I don't like the looks of that rust around the shock mount. That's a bad place for rust. You might have to cut out that whole inner well. The door is toast, you'll need a new one, and probably on the other side, too, and then of course a repaint as matching the doors just right is unlikely.
My feeling is--why not just buy a nice one ready to roll with no rust for $10K??
Otherwise, unless you are handy with a torch and your brother in law owns a paint shop, I don't see the wisdom in this purchase.....well, if you could buy it for $3,500 and just flog it to death without fixing it, that would be fine.
Where are these car shows where cars as poorly done and dirty as this one win the awards? Trans Am
I have a feeling that Trans Am owner won the same types of awards over the years that I have. People's choice awards in a class that's so subdivided that there just isn't a whole lot of competition.
For example, I took my '67 Catalina to a Pontiac show ages ago, and it won third place, I think it was. It didn't win anything for originality, restoration, or anything like that. Car show attendees just thought it was cool and liked it, and enough of them voted for it on a ballot that it won something. FWIW, there were only a handful of cars in that particular class anyway!
My '79 New Yorker won third place in its class at the Mopar Nationals one year. 2003 I think it was. Its class? RWD stock Mopars from 1975-1989. Not really too much to pick from there! I think there were maybe 10 cars in that particular group that year. IIRC, a '78 or so Newport won first place, and I think a nice looking late 70's Diplomat or LeBaron coupe won second.
I was a little miffed though, because I didn't even know I won until the following week when the trophy came in the mail! I didn't even think to check the winner's board on Sunday morning because, well, it's a $900 1979 R-body! I love them, Lemko likes them, and maybe 10 other people on the entire face of the earth even know what an R-body is, so I just didn't think it would get much interest. Anyway, if I had known about it, I could have been in the winners' parade that goes in front of the grandstand, and had my pic taken with my car and some scantily clad women in bikinis. Probably wouldn't have been able to post it, with the way Sneakers is. :P
I kinda like those Smokey and the Bandit era Trans Ams. The ones with the rectangular quad headlights, but before they sunk the grille openings down low in the bumper. I think they only did them that way for '77-78?
Ebay has buyers guides now, sort of. Its random people chiming in on what they think is important to look for by make and model. Like this forum and others, I'm sure the people contributing range from total idiot to godly in terms of knowledge of material. This guy is talking about buying project cars... LISTINGS:1">http://reviews.ebay.com/Buying-Project-Cars_W0QQugidZ10000000000706903?ssPageNam- e=BUYGD:CAT:-1:LISTINGS:1
There was another "guide" about how to get those Barrett Jackson type prices for your 1973 Vega (well, more general than that).
If you ever sell one of your trophy winning cars, you have to take a picture of the car with the trophy. As a bonus, you need to throw in that picture of you stylin' in front of your car for that personal touch. I love the eBay ads that look like they just through in whatever car pictures they had in their photo album.
Comments
Secondly Series vehicles are only Defenders if they have coil springs and that did not happen till about 1983. Even then they were not officialy called Defenders untill 1990.
I wouldn't want to buy a vehicle from someone who has taken it apart so completely and is ignorant of those facts.
http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/163972717.html
http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/164354169.html
The same with the Audis that get teased. If you go to Audifans, things sell on there for relatively high prices.
If you find someone that really wants what you have and believes the gospel from the product, the $$$ will follow.
Trying to get 15k for a specialty car on craigslist is dumb and the guy is a cheapskate for not advertising it the way he should. He will probably get bummed out because its not bringing what he wants instead of joining BMWCCA and advertising it there.
But this guy's M5 is just a stock car in nice condition. And having a black interior hardly justifies the "only 156 made", as if the color of the interior matters at all to value....of course that's sillly.
Ditto the Saab people---I've seen old 900 Turbo 5 door hatches converted to rebuilt 5 speeds from automatics, with the newer 16valve engines installed, all kinds of handling, performance mods, special wheels, restored inside and out and underneath....basically a new and improved Saab for 1/2 the cost of the new ones. So I can see the justification for the asking prices.
In the same way the marque fanatics worship on the altar of their gospels, and pay big bucks for their "religion", so to these same people can spot a false god and scoff at the wannabee who thinks HIS M5 or Saab is worth the same as those of the Anointed Ones.
The priciest 123 wagon I have seen to confirm was a $7500 example, and it was pristine, black on palomino, under 100K miles, all maintenance up to date.
MB people seem to over-value pontons, 126 coupes and late sedans, and 560SLs.
A friend is looking to buy a chrome bumpered MGB for his father-in-law. Is this where the market is on these? What should I check on these?
The same friend is still looking for a '58 Vette. He went to look at this one a month or so ago, and the guy said there was no way he would go below $50K. My friend was willing to go up to $45K which seemed like enough to me.
This '89 944 might be worth checking out now. Last auction, he was asking almost $9,000, so I didn't bother with it. Maybe he is coming to his senses a little bit.
This just seems too cheap but maybe I am wrong.
Since when did toyota make the Jeep 4.0 6 cylinder?
http://hartford.craigslist.org/car/165371372.html
At least a B is still easy to work on and relatively cheap to fix. A true benefit of a car about as complicated as a tractor.
The Porsche on the other hand....
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I'm feeling $8k is a fair-for-all price on it. $12k is more for a fresh restore, all miles accounted for, all documentation in place, etc, etc.
I'm sure Shifty has a better grasp on the current market, though.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I think 550 is about double a real world price. Judging by the wheels and the seats, the car probably has no performance options either. Still...I love looking at it.
GULLWING -- totally dingbat price. Looks like $190K-225K car all the way, maybe $250K at a drunken orgy type auction, maybe $275K for a stunning restoration (You need to really examine these cars, especially to see if the tubular frame has been butchered). It also looks like an early model car. Add $5,000 for belly pans. Nothin' special about it really. These cars are always for sale it seems. What you really want is the 300SL roadster. It costs less, drives better and is way more comfortable inside.
I actually still have an original workshop manual for this car.
Ok about the MGB and just MG's in general I guess I have a couple of questions.
If someone wanted to build a MG for a little fun in the sun car that might see the occasional autoX track or general track day...
1. What year/model would be the best one to pick?
2. Should I stick with the original engine for simplicity sake?
3. If I decided to go with a modern engine swap what would be a good choice?
I would want to use a little 4 cylinder that has good power but is fairly common. What about a Miata engine?
Probably for a bit there are kits for a V8 swap (not what you want for AutoX of course). I think Shifty has mentioned seeing a mazda rotary in a B. That sounds neat if you can buy a well designed kit, otherwise not for the faint of heart. If nothing else, it should fit with room to spare.
If it were me, I would get a late 60's-early 70's chrome bumper car, so it at least has the more modern suspension (shocks)and will probably be a little tougher. I would also keep the engine, and add some easy to do go-fast parts (Moss will sell you as many as you can afford). The bottom end on these things must be darned near indestructible.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
There's nothing wrong with the MGB engine...it's torquey, tough as nails and if set up right will perform just as well as any 4. Engine conversions just ruin MGBs, which are approaching collectible status. To do an engine swap would be borderline barbaric IMHO :P
You can build an MGB engine up to around 140HP for the track and there aren't too many modern 4s that are much better than that...of course that 140HP 1.8 engine won't be all that streetable.
Best years...well, I'd say 1967 to 1974, but of course if you can avoid engines with air pumps all the better.
Some people put Webers on these engines but all they've done is spend a lot of $$$ to get 3 HP at very high rpm, and it sinks the gas mileage into the pits. Hardly worth it.
Aside from all kinds of engine mods you can do, you can buy more effective shocks and springs and many many other upgrades. The parts supply and modifications supply for MGBs are almost endless. Aside from the old VW bug and the Mustang, the MGB probably has the best aftermarket support in the entire world. Anything you need for that car (EVEN an entirely NEW metal body!!) can be delivered to your door UPS in a couple of days....ANY part!
Keep the original engine avoid the smog cars and update all of the suspension compenents. I would put a roll cage in the car too to make my wife feel better. I doubt I would do too much to the motor besdes what was necessary to keep it running smoothly.
damn! you beat me to the joke.
but ... seriously ... if you find out where one is being held .....
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I guess, for the money, it could have been worse. He did a full tune-up on it. It ran kinda rough still, though, but the tranny worked flawlessly.
The biggest issue is that he told me he replaced the steering pump to fix a leak. Well, I had to let him know he replaced it for no reason because it was actually the steering box that was leaking. And nothing minor, either. I was actually watching the beads of fluid form and drop off the car. And this was before it was even running. I'd hate to think of the severity of that leak once it was actually hot.
Anyway, I decided that my money would be better spent elsewhere. I've seen plenty of pickups in the $1k range. Just gotta get out and starting checking them out in person.
there's a '65 F150 in the auto shopper, but the wife says we are buying a work horse, not a collectible that I'll want to sink money into. Of course, she's right, but I'm still upset about it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Murcielago with roof and suspension damage. Did it maybe just bump a curb and get in a little hail storm? The pictures make it look a little more serious than that.
How much for brand new Z4 that was in a street water flood? Not $19,500 from me.
Could be a like new M5 that just needs a new and a tiny bit of body work for only $16,900. Anyone want to take that chance?
Some of these cars even come with clean carfaxes. Instills confidence, doesn't it?
Secondly if I owned a shop some of those cars might not scare me but that is the only time I would mess with those.
same thing on ebay
It looks like he put another 5K miles on it since he started the Auto Trader ad, but is unwilling to go exactly $1.00 below his asking price. Based on the pictures, I think this car is in my neighborhood. Theoretically, I could see it from my house.
I was thinking it would be nice to have for $6-$7,000. Shows what I know.
I always wonder about the ones that need to be cleaned. Is it really that much trouble to clean your car before you sell it? If it is too much trouble at that point, it has probably been too much trouble to clean for the whole period of ownership.
One really bad thing I notice is that in the back end photo, you can't see the vertical line that should be between the gas cap and the reversing light lens. This is where the fender joins the rear apron---so it's been filled with body filler. Worth checking this area out with a magnet.
The thing is, that's pretty much unavoidable on these. Its just a matter of, if it was repaired, when and how well? The rocker panels, trunk, and floor will all rust, without a doubt, no way around it (unless you find one that lived its whole life in the southwest, but then it will rust the minute you get it here). SO, the trick is to get it for a price that compensates for getting the body redone. If its mechanically sound, it at least has something going for it. If you have a good body man that will do you a big favor, or if you can do it yourself (as was the case with my Alfa), then you can come out OK on the deal if you are careful.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
in better condition than most
if the Chevy is out of your budget
kinda pricey for a 289
but maybe you can get a discount on the pair?
Shortest Honda ever?
Opel Gt already bid past its value.
Where are these car shows where cars as poorly done and dirty as this one win the awards? Trans Am
The buy it now price seems a bit high though.
My feeling is--why not just buy a nice one ready to roll with no rust for $10K??
Otherwise, unless you are handy with a torch and your brother in law owns a paint shop, I don't see the wisdom in this purchase.....well, if you could buy it for $3,500 and just flog it to death without fixing it, that would be fine.
I have a feeling that Trans Am owner won the same types of awards over the years that I have. People's choice awards in a class that's so subdivided that there just isn't a whole lot of competition.
For example, I took my '67 Catalina to a Pontiac show ages ago, and it won third place, I think it was. It didn't win anything for originality, restoration, or anything like that. Car show attendees just thought it was cool and liked it, and enough of them voted for it on a ballot that it won something. FWIW, there were only a handful of cars in that particular class anyway!
My '79 New Yorker won third place in its class at the Mopar Nationals one year. 2003 I think it was. Its class? RWD stock Mopars from 1975-1989. Not really too much to pick from there! I think there were maybe 10 cars in that particular group that year. IIRC, a '78 or so Newport won first place, and I think a nice looking late 70's Diplomat or LeBaron coupe won second.
I was a little miffed though, because I didn't even know I won until the following week when the trophy came in the mail! I didn't even think to check the winner's board on Sunday morning because, well, it's a $900 1979 R-body! I love them, Lemko likes them, and maybe 10 other people on the entire face of the earth even know what an R-body is, so I just didn't think it would get much interest. Anyway, if I had known about it, I could have been in the winners' parade that goes in front of the grandstand, and had my pic taken with my car and some scantily clad women in bikinis. Probably wouldn't have been able to post it, with the way Sneakers is. :P
I kinda like those Smokey and the Bandit era Trans Ams. The ones with the rectangular quad headlights, but before they sunk the grille openings down low in the bumper. I think they only did them that way for '77-78?
LISTINGS:1">http://reviews.ebay.com/Buying-Project-Cars_W0QQugidZ10000000000706903?ssPageNam- e=BUYGD:CAT:-1:LISTINGS:1
There was another "guide" about how to get those Barrett Jackson type prices for your 1973 Vega (well, more general than that).
Haven't read it yet though.
There's so much to know about each make and model...you can't do it in a few paragraphs.
But generally I didn't read anything objectionable or downright wrong.