Can one of the Car Gurus in this forum answer these question ?? If I buy or , lease out of my state does dealership register my car, or do I ? How bout sales tax? Can I pick up car same day I'm at dealership? are there added fee's from selling dealer out of state . Do I have to return vehicle back to the state I lease in? What if dealer from out of state tells me I need to come to dealership 1st ?
Is there anything I missed I need to know that I did not post, or know ?? tks john
In my own search for a new car here in NJ I have gotten quotes on title and reg that were very different on something that should be the same cost. This led me to research my local nj DMV charges. If you buy in NJ then you must register with the dealship but if you buy out of state they say to inquire with the dealer about if you can do it on your own. I spoke with a dealer in Pa and they said if I buy cash then I could do reg, title and sales tax on my own but if I lease or finance there is a lien involved and they would handle it. If you can do it on your own you might be able to take advantage of registration discounts for senior, disabled or veternans. On a new car in NJ you must get a 4 year accelerated registration or do a tag transfer which is much cheaper. In my opinion taking amtrack to finalize a deal on a new car would take away your ability to walk away from a deal gone bad.. and believe me, I walked away from many. When I go to a dealership I usually wash my car so maybe I,ll get a good trade in value and and if the deal goes south I don't feel as bad driving home in a clean car
Can one of the Car Gurus in this forum answer these question ?? If I buy or , lease out of my state does dealership register my car, or do I ? How bout sales tax? Can I pick up car same day I'm at dealership? are there added fee's from selling dealer out of state . Do I have to return vehicle back to the state I lease in? What if dealer from out of state tells me I need to come to dealership 1st ?
Is there anything I missed I need to know that I did not post, or know ?? tks john
In my own search for a new car here in NJ I have gotten quotes on title and reg that were very different on something that should be the same cost. This led me to research my local nj DMV charges. If you buy in NJ then you must register with the dealship but if you buy out of state they say to inquire with the dealer about if you can do it on your own. I spoke with a dealer in Pa and they said if I buy cash then I could do reg, title and sales tax on my own but if I lease or finance there is a lien involved and they would handle it. If you can do it on your own you might be able to take advantage of registration discounts for senior, disabled or veternans. On a new car in NJ you must get a 4 year accelerated registration or do a tag transfer which is much cheaper. In my opinion taking amtrack to finalize a deal on a new car would take away your ability to walk away from a deal gone bad.. and believe me, I walked away from many. When I go to a dealership I usually wash my car so maybe I,ll get a good trade in value and and if the deal goes south I don't feel as bad driving home in a clean car
You made some good points. @john4545 The only MA dealer I have bought from is Honda Cars of Boston. They do not play games and are upfront with all their costs. I take my car to Kelly Honda for service. They do not always have the lowest price and sometimes their sales guys can be pushy. I have received email quotes from some of the other dealers I listed in the past, but I did not attempt to buy from any of them since their price was not the lowest.
The only other advice is to make sure you have everything in writing, pre-approval for financing, etc.. even if you plan to buy locally.
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
Can one of the Car Gurus in this forum answer these question ?? If I buy or , lease out of my state does dealership register my car, or do I ? How bout sales tax? Can I pick up car same day I'm at dealership? are there added fee's from selling dealer out of state . Do I have to return vehicle back to the state I lease in? What if dealer from out of state tells me I need to come to dealership 1st ?
Is there anything I missed I need to know that I did not post, or know ?? tks john
In my own search for a new car here in NJ I have gotten quotes on title and reg that were very different on something that should be the same cost. This led me to research my local nj DMV charges. If you buy in NJ then you must register with the dealship but if you buy out of state they say to inquire with the dealer about if you can do it on your own. I spoke with a dealer in Pa and they said if I buy cash then I could do reg, title and sales tax on my own but if I lease or finance there is a lien involved and they would handle it. If you can do it on your own you might be able to take advantage of registration discounts for senior, disabled or veternans. On a new car in NJ you must get a 4 year accelerated registration or do a tag transfer which is much cheaper. In my opinion taking amtrack to finalize a deal on a new car would take away your ability to walk away from a deal gone bad.. and believe me, I walked away from many. When I go to a dealership I usually wash my car so maybe I,ll get a good trade in value and and if the deal goes south I don't feel as bad driving home in a clean car
Blue Cant afford a 2.0 Touring right now . I'm going for a sport model. I will write down your dealers . have you bought out of state ? is it complicated ?
John look back at my email 2 months ago regarding buying via online or thru dealerships Internet dept. Same applies for out of state purchases . There is a list of questions the selling dealer has to answer for you 1st before you make / sign any deal. like ( your states taxes, dmv fee's & plates , vehicle arrival etc. ) You work your best deal thru the dealerships Internet mgrs. Then let dealer run a credit report & go over out of state purchase if your leasing. If your not Tier 1 credit stick to a local sale.
Once everything is agree upon the selling dealer will send you a Buyers order with all the particulars.... make, model, vin, price breakdown, etc. Once you review and it all looks kosher you & dealer sign paper work then leave a deposit if needed till you get to dealership or vehicle arrives .
If you contact 20 dealers in many area's asking for there best price or a Target price to buy that DAY here is what you'll get........ you will end up with 3 to 5 dealers competing for your business. Some dealers wont respond , some wont do a deal by phone, or online , some are bad dealerships who play games. If and when you go that route let me know I will give you contact numbers for dealers in MA and dealers in many area's.
Since time seems to be on your side I would be prepared to buy and pick up this vehicle by the last day of any month or end of 2nd quarter which is Sat, June 30th.
If I was you John and from many years buying online, by phone, if your savings isn't substantially MORE stick to a smaller Honda dealership radius. I'm always around if you need help....... Unless the car Gods come for me 1st.
I'm in Myrtle Beach playing golf till end of June . Come down and I'll walk you thru a Honda dealership then you could drive 10 hrs back East & really break in your new Accord.
I have a loaded 50k 2013 R-spec Genesis sedan with @429 hp.. you might want to buy instead .. sits in my garage when I come down to S.C.............. 18k miles, still looks showroom.
@bluemkn57cars..... here in S.C Accord deals are not as good as MA, MD, or CA.
I'm in Myrtle Beach playing golf till end of June . Come down and I'll walk you thru a Honda dealership then you could drive 10 hrs back East & really break in your new Accord.
I have a loaded 50k 2013 R-spec Genesis sedan with @429 hp.. you might want to buy instead .. sits in my garage when I come down to S.C.............. 18k miles, still looks showroom.
@bluemkn57cars..... here in S.C Accord deals are not as good as MA, MD, or CA.
don't temp me on your Genesis I might take you up on that one.....lol.... my wife would kill me if I came home with that kind of horse power and not the family accord sedan . I will check your email and feeling a lot better. I will IM you with some more questions if you don't mind sir .
tks again Brian for your help and great car buying advice as always ..............john
Word of advice to all & @sdouc99............. Beware high doc fees cut into your car deal. All dealerships doc fee charges are added in after your final agreed sales price and dealer is writing up buyers order .
That's why I always preach know your states / dealers doc fee charges, especially if your state does not cap / regulate them. You always need to ask each dealer what they charge before agreeing on a sales price.
I just picked up a 1.5 EX in the northeast for $24,600 (including doc fee)
can u provide state , taxes , doc fee and selling price would be helpful
Selling price is $24,600. I forget what the doc fee is but that is irrelevant because you add that in to get the true selling price.
........................................................................................................................................................................................
Word of advice to all & @sdouc99............. Beware high doc fees cut into your car deal. All dealerships doc fee charges are added in after your final agreed sales price and dealer is writing up buyers order .
That's why I always preach know your states / dealers doc fee charges, especially if your state does not cap / regulate them. You always need to ask each dealer what they charge before agreeing on a sales price.
Yes you need to be aware of the doc fees and factor it in when negotiating but if you do that then it really doesn’t matter how much it is. Say dealer A sells a car for $24700 and “charges” a $300 doc fee and dealer B sell the same car for $24200 and “charges” a $800 doc fee. Either way you pay the same for the car and the dealers make the same profit (assuming everything else is equal, i.e. holdbacks, flex cash etc)
Word of advice to all & @sdouc99............. Beware high doc fees cut into your car deal. All dealerships doc fee charges are added in after your final agreed sales price and dealer is writing up buyers order .
That's why I always preach know your states / dealers doc fee charges, especially if your state does not cap / regulate them. You always need to ask each dealer what they charge before agreeing on a sales price.
Yes you need to be aware of the doc fees and factor it in when negotiating but if you do that then it really doesn’t matter how much it is. Say dealer A sells a car for $24700 and “charges” a $300 doc fee and dealer B sell the same car for $24200 and “charges” a $800 doc fee. Either way you pay the same for the car and the dealers make the same profit (assuming everything else is equal, i.e. holdbacks, flex cash etc)
Yes, Good job that's how you do it!!! you explained it better this time in your post.
@john445 Do you plan to finance through Honda Financial Services or pay cash? Not sure if you plan to have your own financing from a credit union but the rates are okay, with good credit. Current Honda offers are: 1.9% for 24 - 36 months and 2.9% for 37 - 60 months. They need to bring back the 0.9% offer soon. That will help drive up sales along with flex cash.
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
Target as many dealerships your willing to travel to , make your emails & calls to dealers building on your above offer..... Then try negotiating a lower deal buying only on the last 2 days, last day of this month.
Make your lowest deal at that time... This will ensure you made the best deal possible in your area for May..
Email me the exact vehicle your looking for & a 2nd choice of color if any . Would you be willing to go To Hidy Honda for a manuel sport ?
Check out price Honda in DE...... I'm told a few manual models coming in . I know the sales mgr but not sure how much better they will do than NJ or PA.?
The key to making the best deal is being ready to pull the trigger today if need be. Sometimes when I'm looking to buy for myself I may start the buying process 1 to 2 month early with a target price in mind. .
Hidy Honda is not good but the DE dealer may be possible . Alot of states on the east coast are in driving range for me .My wife wont let me buy a Manuel so going to shoot for a Sport . I emailed your recommended dealers in MD waiting on price Reponses. The internet mgr. @criswell was very helpful and explain alot of the out of state process. I'm waiting on a number from him?
I appreciate your time and effort helping me along .. a million thank you's...............john
Hidy Honda is not good but the DE dealer may be possible . Alot of states on the east coast are in driving range for me .My wife wont let me buy a Manuel so going to shoot for a Sport . I emailed your recommended dealers in MD waiting on price Reponses. The internet mgr. @criswell was very helpful and explain alot of the out of state process. I'm waiting on a number from him?
I appreciate your time and effort helping me along .. a million thank you's...............john
.
FYI the dealerships that I am targeting and in your range that I find credible are Piazza of Phila, Piazza of springfield, Conicelli, J.L. Freed, Rossi. My biggest red flag dealer is Sloane, stay away
Sloane told me they had vehicle, gave me a great price when I arrived the car was not there, wrong color , the price they quoted had add on fee's plus price did not include freight fee.
Sloane told me they had vehicle, gave me a great price when I arrived the car was not there, wrong color , the price they quoted had add on fee's plus price did not include freight fee.
Sounds like a similar experience I had 5 years ago with Prime Honda in West Roxbury, MA. Long story short, after confirming the car (in the color combination I was planning to buy) was still available the day before, when I arrived at the dealership, they stated the car had been sold. Then, they attempted to sell me a car in a different color. I walked out of there and vowed to tell everyone I know who is looking to buy a Honda to NEVER deal with them. I ended up buying my Accord for a $100 more at Honda Cars of Boston. The experience was day and night.
So feel free to spread the word to anyone in MA or in the Northeast. I just hate some of these slime ball salesmen. Not sure who in their right mind will still fall for these dumb tricks, but that really pissed me off when it happened.
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
Wanted to share some words of advice to folks looking to land the best deal. Here are my top 5:
Do your research and make sure you have all the information at your finger tips to make an informed decision
If a sales guy or a dealer is not being forth coming with information, move on to the next one until you get answers to your question(s).
Always make sure you have a backup dealership, in case the one with the best offer ends up pulling a bait and switch on you.
Do not be afraid to walk out of a dealership if things do not seem right or you are being taken for a ride. Some dealers like to tell you that their offer is only valid for 24/48 hours. That's BS and a sales tactic to force you into making a decision right there on the spot.
Read all the paperwork while in the finance office. Make sure all the numbers add up. Once you sign on the dotted line, you cannot claim ignorance or request a refund.
Good luck and hope folks land some deals at the end of the month.
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
Sloane told me they had vehicle, gave me a great price when I arrived the car was not there, wrong color , the price they quoted had add on fee's plus price did not include freight fee.
They did have the car I wanted in stock but the price went up almost 500 than the price I was quoted online, they added a 150 internet fee, they regisration cost was over 100 more than it should be, wheel locks on the window sticker was 78 but they increased it to 130. My trip there was so bad that I had to laugh while walking out but it was a good example of what should not happen
Hi. Would you happen to know when the 2019 models usually start arriving on dealer lots? thank you.
Sept / Oct .
2018 Accord models have not sold like last year with plenty of stock still sitting on dealers lots across the country . I'm figuring middle/ late October................ just my guess?
@brian125 - Can you recommend any Acura dealerships in MA? If not, no big deal. I've already reached out to Acura of Boston and Acura of Peabody. There are great lease incentives on the 2018 TLX, but they are getting scare on dealer lots already. Acura of Boston has one A-spec AWD in my color combination but they did not disclose any of the lease incentives posted in the Acura forum. I decided to move on. As for Acura of Peabody, they do not have any more 2018s SH-AWD Aspec in stock. 2019 have already started hitting dealer lots.
On a side note, I'm going to wait and see whether Honda Flex cash returns next month.
Thanks.
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
@brian125 - Can you recommend any Acura dealerships in MA? If not, no big deal. I've already reached out to Acura of Boston and Acura of Peabody. There are great lease incentives on the 2018 TLX, but they are getting scare on dealer lots already. Acura of Boston has one A-spec AWD in my color combination but they did not disclose any of the lease incentives posted in the Acura forum. I decided to move on. As for Acura of Peabody, they do not have any more 2018s SH-AWD Aspec in stock. 2019 have already started hitting dealer lots.
On a side note, I'm going to wait and see whether Honda Flex cash returns next month.
Thanks.
I didn't have a good experience with Acura of Peabody.They pulled ol bait and switch move. I was looking for a TLX base model. Their website showed they had a couple in stock. I called them to confirm and they said they had a couple so I made an appointment for later in the day. I show up and they tell me they didn't have any but they could give me a great deal on a Tech. It wasn't even a good deal and they weren't willing to budge much.
@sdouc99 - Sorry to hear that. So far, I cannot complain with my online experience dealing with Acura of Peabody, and getting info / pricing on the 2018 and 2019 TLX Aspec. I was dealing with Janet G. She has been helpful, and has provided me with nearly all the info I have requested. Their doc fees are $335 vs $479 compared to Acura of Boston. Too bad they no longer have a 2018 Aspec SH-AWD in stock (in my preferred color combination). I am probably not going to be leasing/buying a TLX this year.
I have learned my lesson to only step foot in a dealership to either test drive a car or sign paperwork after doing most/all negotiating online.
Are you still in the market for a TLX? If yes, what dealership(s) are you working with?
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
@sdouc99 - Sorry to hear that. So far, I cannot complain with my online experience dealing with Acura of Peabody, and getting info / pricing on the 2018 and 2019 TLX Aspec. I was dealing with Janet G. She has been helpful, and has provided me with nearly all the info I have requested. Their doc fees are $335 vs $479 compared to Acura of Boston. Too bad they no longer have a 2018 Aspec SH-AWD in stock (in my preferred color combination). I am probably not going to be leasing/buying a TLX this year.
I have learned my lesson to only step foot in a dealership to either test drive a car or sign paperwork after doing most/all negotiating online.
Are you still in the market for a TLX? If yes, what dealership(s) are you working with?
I was quoted $28,825 for an EX-L 2.0 and just asked for lease info to see what MF, RV and payment are. Does this seem like pretty good deal to start or should I be trying to negotiate a lot more.
TY...................@jerseydevil01 I will call 2 of the ones you posted
@john4545 I got an email from conicelli that they are having a memorial day sale so I got a price quote for the car I want... touring 1.5T in the color I want @ MSRP 34690, sale price 29869, a nice price drop. I may pursue the offer the last few days of may and get a few more quotes between now and then
I went to autotrader and found dealerships with the exact car I wanted in stock. It gives the option to email and has a generic message preloaded but don’t give them your phone number. Then after 12 different dealer emails about 10 replied. Then I replied to those requesting best on the road price. This narrowed the pack drastically. After getting it to 3 actively engaged dealerships I took lowest quote and sent one of the 3 a message asking if they could beat that number. Then took that figure to the next and continued with this process until other dealers bailed due to price and one sent a counter offer that was actually 300 dollars more even after he had pics of the buyer agreement from other dealer. And as had been mentioned before I always kept one dealer in my back pocket in case first deal went bad at the last minute. It’s a long process in wait time but emails only take a couple of mins. This was definitely easiest buying process I’ve ever had and learned a ton from the knowledgeable guys here. I also loaded pics of my agreement on here just to have those guys dbl check it. I can’t say thanks enough for all help and insight.
I forgot to add either the day before or day you’re ready to buy make an offer less than whatever their lowest quote was. Saved me $300 at the end of the process.
Maybe I am doing it wrong when I email dealerships. How do I go about asking for quotes? Please help!
What message do most usually send out?
Go to a dealer's website, find the car you want and request a price quote. When they respond ask that they list the following: - Dealer doc fees - Title and registration fees - Any other fees
Those dealers that do not respond with a price quote but instead ask you to come in, just tell them thanks but no thanks and move on.
Once you start narrowing down dealers with the best price, you can use some of tactics listed in this forum or use this trick: Only do this if you are going to buy the car within 24 hours - Tell the dealer(s) that are still in contention you will buy TODAY from whomever gives you the lowest price. This will save you time and headache instead of trying to negotiate while at the dealership.
Once you have a deal in writing, always confirm everything before walking in. Most dealers have online credit applications (if you are financing through them) that can be filled out before you walk in to sign the paperwork. Please read some of my top 5 suggestions I posted earlier. Always have a backup dealership in case your first choice plays games or does a bait and switch at the last minute. Be prepared to walk out at anytime if things do not seem right. At the end of the day, it is your money.
Good luck.
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
Maybe I am doing it wrong when I email dealerships. How do I go about asking for quotes? Please help!
What message do most usually send out? ------------------------------------------------------- My other advice: If you are trading a car in, do not mention it or negotiate trade-in until you have agreed on a price for the Accord. That should be your main focus. You could mention to the sales guy that you might trade-in your car, but you want to work on a deal on the Accord.
Hope this helps. Make your best deal the last 2 days of the month.
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
@brian125 - Can you recommend any Acura dealerships in MA? If not, no big deal. I've already reached out to Acura of Boston and Acura of Peabody. There are great lease incentives on the 2018 TLX, but they are getting scare on dealer lots already. Acura of Boston has one A-spec AWD in my color combination but they did not disclose any of the lease incentives posted in the Acura forum. I decided to move on. As for Acura of Peabody, they do not have any more 2018s SH-AWD Aspec in stock. 2019 have already started hitting dealer lots.
On a side note, I'm going to wait and see whether Honda Flex cash returns next month.
In these emails do we ask about financing? Or do we just debate price & once we seal a number we start discussing financing?
Also, really random question: Why do people buy the accord when you can lease a BMW for the same price? Just curious because I'm still on the fence between leasing a BMW 330i or just getting the 2.0 sport. I know financially, it's smarter to go with a purchase for the long haul, but besides that, is there a significant difference? I love both cars, so, I'm torn.
The lowest I got quoted for 2018 Accord ex 1.5 is $24,272 + $80 doc fees(Cali) + taxes. That's $2k below invoice before doc fees. I just go through truecar and replied to their emails. I want to get it below $24k. Do you guys think I'll be able to get $23.5k during memorial weekend? In need of a car this month so waiting until 2019 models is out of option for me. Just out of curiosity, I see many people post here and buy EX-L. Just wondering is extra ~$2k worth it? I don't see major differences between EX and EX-L beside, leather seats, premium sound and memory driver seat. Thanks
In these emails do we ask about financing? Or do we just debate price & once we seal a number we start discussing financing?
Also, really random question: Why do people buy the accord when you can lease a BMW for the same price? Just curious because I'm still on the fence between leasing a BMW 330i or just getting the 2.0 sport. I know financially, it's smarter to go with a purchase for the long haul, but besides that, is there a significant difference? I love both cars, so, I'm torn.
For starters, a BMW 330 is the size of a Honda Civic. The Honda Accord is the size of the BMW 5-series. In terms of interior room and cargo room, in other words, the Accord gives you so much more than a BMW 3-series. If you don't need the room of the Accord, then you might try the Civic Si or Civic Type R.
The Accord Sport 2.0 has an msrp of about $31,000. The BMW 330i comparably equipped has an msrp of about $43,000.
After 3 years the Accord is likely to keep about 56% or its original value.
After 3 years a BMW 3-series keeps about 38% of its original value.
As you say, you can buy an Accord for maybe around the same price that you can lease a BMW. But at the end of the BMW lease you don't have a downpayment on your next car, while with buying an Accord you do have a downpayment on your next car.
BMWs are great, and for a long time I had a fantasy of owning one. But they aren't known for their long-term durability or reliability. And so keeping a BMW long term is pretty risky financially.
Almost all Accords can go for 10 years and 100,000 miles with only routine maintenance.
That's why imho many people who can afford a BMW go for an Accord instead.
Thanks guys.
@bluemkn57cars Do I use the 'contact us' feature on a dealer's website or do I contact a person for example Owner/General Sales Manager/Sales Manager?
@edmundshackr As shown in the screenshot below, I went to my local dealer's website, selected a vehicle and can click "Get Your e-Price" to request a quote. Most dealers will require that you enter your name and contact info (email address and/or phone number). I would recommend not to give out your phone number since you will be bombarded by calls from the dealership. You can do all negotiations via email.
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
@brian125 - Can you recommend any Acura dealerships in MA? If not, no big deal. I've already reached out to Acura of Boston and Acura of Peabody. There are great lease incentives on the 2018 TLX, but they are getting scare on dealer lots already. Acura of Boston has one A-spec AWD in my color combination but they did not disclose any of the lease incentives posted in the Acura forum. I decided to move on. As for Acura of Peabody, they do not have any more 2018s SH-AWD Aspec in stock. 2019 have already started hitting dealer lots.
On a side note, I'm going to wait and see whether Honda Flex cash returns next month.
Thanks.
Thanks, Brian. I already reached out to the first two dealers on the list. The remaining ones are quite a ways from me, so for now, I might pass on an Acura.
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
Comments
The only other advice is to make sure you have everything in writing, pre-approval for financing, etc.. even if you plan to buy locally.
can u provide state , taxes , doc fee and selling price would be helpful
I forget what the doc fee is but that is irrelevant because you add that in to get the true selling price.
Once everything is agree upon the selling dealer will send you a Buyers order with all the particulars.... make, model, vin, price breakdown, etc. Once you review and it all looks kosher you & dealer sign paper work then leave a deposit if needed till you get to dealership or vehicle arrives .
If you contact 20 dealers in many area's asking for there best price or a Target price to buy that DAY here is what you'll get........ you will end up with 3 to 5 dealers competing for your business. Some dealers wont respond , some wont do a deal by phone, or online , some are bad dealerships who play games. If and when you go that route let me know I will give you contact numbers for dealers in MA and dealers in many area's.
Since time seems to be on your side I would be prepared to buy and pick up this vehicle by the last day of any month or end of 2nd quarter which is Sat, June 30th.
If I was you John and from many years buying online, by phone, if your savings isn't substantially MORE stick to a smaller Honda dealership radius. I'm always around if you need help....... Unless the car Gods come for me 1st.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I'm in Myrtle Beach playing golf till end of June . Come down and I'll walk you thru a Honda dealership then you could drive 10 hrs back East & really break in your new Accord.
I have a loaded 50k 2013 R-spec Genesis sedan with @429 hp.. you might want to buy instead .. sits in my garage when I come down to S.C.............. 18k miles, still looks showroom.
@bluemkn57cars..... here in S.C Accord deals are not as good as MA, MD, or CA.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
tks again Brian for your help and great car buying advice as always ..............john
I forget what the doc fee is but that is irrelevant because you add that in to get the true selling price.
........................................................................................................................................................................................
Word of advice to all & @sdouc99............. Beware high doc fees cut into your car deal. All dealerships doc fee charges are added in after your final agreed sales price and dealer is writing up buyers order .
That's why I always preach know your states / dealers doc fee charges, especially if your state does not cap / regulate them. You always need to ask each dealer what they charge before agreeing on a sales price.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/what-fees-should-you-pay.html#chart
A few states sales tax have creped up a little.
Some States DMV fee's are higher also that may need updating .
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Yes, Good job that's how you do it!!! you explained it better this time in your post.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Current Honda offers are: 1.9% for 24 - 36 months and 2.9% for 37 - 60 months. They need to bring back the 0.9% offer soon. That will help drive up sales along with flex cash.
MSRP: $31,200
Discount: $3,506
Price: $27,694
OTD: $29,600 (tax and $244 doc fees)
Thanks
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Email me the exact vehicle your looking for & a 2nd choice of color if any . Would you be willing to go To Hidy Honda for a manuel sport ?
Check out price Honda in DE...... I'm told a few manual models coming in . I know the sales mgr but not sure how much better they will do than NJ or PA.?
The key to making the best deal is being ready to pull the trigger today if need be. Sometimes when I'm looking to buy for myself I may start the buying process 1 to 2 month early with a target price in mind. .
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I appreciate your time and effort helping me along .. a million thank you's...............john
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Sloane told me they had vehicle, gave me a great price when I arrived the car was not there, wrong color , the price they quoted had add on fee's plus price did not include freight fee.
So feel free to spread the word to anyone in MA or in the Northeast. I just hate some of these slime ball salesmen. Not sure who in their right mind will still fall for these dumb tricks, but that really pissed me off when it happened.
- Do your research and make sure you have all the information at your finger tips to make an informed decision
- If a sales guy or a dealer is not being forth coming with information, move on to the next one until you get answers to your question(s).
- Always make sure you have a backup dealership, in case the one with the best offer ends up pulling a bait and switch on you.
- Do not be afraid to walk out of a dealership if things do not seem right or you are being taken for a ride. Some dealers like to tell you that their offer is only valid for 24/48 hours. That's BS and a sales tactic to force you into making a decision right there on the spot.
- Read all the paperwork while in the finance office. Make sure all the numbers add up. Once you sign on the dotted line, you cannot claim ignorance or request a refund.
Good luck and hope folks land some deals at the end of the month.Hi. Would you happen to know when the 2019 models usually start arriving on dealer lots?
thank you.
2018 Accord models have not sold like last year with plenty of stock still sitting on dealers lots across the country . I'm figuring middle/ late October................ just my guess?
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
On a side note, I'm going to wait and see whether Honda Flex cash returns next month.
Thanks.
I have learned my lesson to only step foot in a dealership to either test drive a car or sign paperwork after doing most/all negotiating online.
Are you still in the market for a TLX? If yes, what dealership(s) are you working with?
What message do most usually send out?
- Dealer doc fees
- Title and registration fees
- Any other fees
Those dealers that do not respond with a price quote but instead ask you to come in, just tell them thanks but no thanks and move on.
Once you start narrowing down dealers with the best price, you can use some of tactics listed in this forum or use this trick: Only do this if you are going to buy the car within 24 hours - Tell the dealer(s) that are still in contention you will buy TODAY from whomever gives you the lowest price. This will save you time and headache instead of trying to negotiate while at the dealership.
Once you have a deal in writing, always confirm everything before walking in. Most dealers have online credit applications (if you are financing through them) that can be filled out before you walk in to sign the paperwork. Please read some of my top 5 suggestions I posted earlier. Always have a backup dealership in case your first choice plays games or does a bait and switch at the last minute. Be prepared to walk out at anytime if things do not seem right. At the end of the day, it is your money.
Good luck.
@bluemkn57cars Do I use the 'contact us' feature on a dealers website or do I contact a person for example Owner/General Sales Manager/Sales Manager?
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Also, really random question: Why do people buy the accord when you can lease a BMW for the same price? Just curious because I'm still on the fence between leasing a BMW 330i or just getting the 2.0 sport. I know financially, it's smarter to go with a purchase for the long haul, but besides that, is there a significant difference? I love both cars, so, I'm torn.
Just out of curiosity, I see many people post here and buy EX-L. Just wondering is extra ~$2k worth it? I don't see major differences between EX and EX-L beside, leather seats, premium sound and memory driver seat.
Thanks
The Accord Sport 2.0 has an msrp of about $31,000. The BMW 330i comparably equipped has an msrp of about $43,000.
After 3 years the Accord is likely to keep about 56% or its original value.
After 3 years a BMW 3-series keeps about 38% of its original value.
As you say, you can buy an Accord for maybe around the same price that you can lease a BMW. But at the end of the BMW lease you don't have a downpayment on your next car, while with buying an Accord you do have a downpayment on your next car.
BMWs are great, and for a long time I had a fantasy of owning one. But they aren't known for their long-term durability or reliability. And so keeping a BMW long term is pretty risky financially.
Almost all Accords can go for 10 years and 100,000 miles with only routine maintenance.
That's why imho many people who can afford a BMW go for an Accord instead.