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2018 Honda Accord Deals and Prices

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Comments

  • baltazaarbaltazaar Posts: 15
    slick123 said:
    slick123 said:
    The lowest I got quoted for 2018 Accord ex 1.5 is $24,272 + $80 doc fees(Cali) + taxes. That's $2k below invoice before doc fees. I just go through truecar and replied to their emails. I want to get it below $24k. Do you guys think I'll be able to get $23.5k during memorial weekend? In need of a car this month so waiting until 2019 models is out of option for me. Just out of curiosity, I see many people post here and buy EX-L. Just wondering is extra ~$2k worth it? I don't see major differences between EX and EX-L beside, leather seats, premium sound and memory driver seat. Thanks
    What dealer is this? Looking to get a sport and the best discount I have been able to get is 4K. Which SoCal dealers do you guys recommend 
    The dealer is "Culver City Honda" I'm still in the market and looking for one so I don't have any recommendation. The best quote from truecar I have gotten is from "Honda Cars of Corona" Hope that helps.
    How much discount have you been able to get?
    the best quote for me has been 22500 for accord sport which is about 4200 off
  • slick123slick123 Posts: 4
    baltazaar said:
    slick123 said:
    slick123 said:
    The lowest I got quoted for 2018 Accord ex 1.5 is $24,272 + $80 doc fees(Cali) + taxes. That's $2k below invoice before doc fees. I just go through truecar and replied to their emails. I want to get it below $24k. Do you guys think I'll be able to get $23.5k during memorial weekend? In need of a car this month so waiting until 2019 models is out of option for me. Just out of curiosity, I see many people post here and buy EX-L. Just wondering is extra ~$2k worth it? I don't see major differences between EX and EX-L beside, leather seats, premium sound and memory driver seat. Thanks
    What dealer is this? Looking to get a sport and the best discount I have been able to get is 4K. Which SoCal dealers do you guys recommend 
    The dealer is "Culver City Honda" I'm still in the market and looking for one so I don't have any recommendation. The best quote from truecar I have gotten is from "Honda Cars of Corona" Hope that helps.
    How much discount have you been able to get?
    the best quote for me has been 22500 for accord sport which is about 4200 off
    I was looking for EX. Not sport  The lowest I got was $2k off from invoice. About $4k off from msrp. It was from Culver city Honda. If you don't mind sharing, which dealer gave you $4200 off from msrp? I might try that dealer for the EX or EX hybrid. Thanks  
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    edited May 2018
    slick123 said:


    baltazaar said:


    slick123 said:


    slick123 said:

    The lowest I got quoted for 2018 Accord ex 1.5 is $24,272 + $80 doc fees(Cali) + taxes. That's $2k below invoice before doc fees. I just go through truecar and replied to their emails. I want to get it below $24k. Do you guys think I'll be able to get $23.5k during memorial weekend? In need of a car this month so waiting until 2019 models is out of option for me.
    Just out of curiosity, I see many people post here and buy EX-L. Just wondering is extra ~$2k worth it? I don't see major differences between EX and EX-L beside, leather seats, premium sound and memory driver seat.
    Thanks

    What dealer is this? Looking to get a sport and the best discount I have been able to get is 4K. Which SoCal dealers do you guys recommend 
    The dealer is "Culver City Honda" I'm still in the market and looking for one so I don't have any recommendation. The best quote from truecar I have gotten is from "Honda Cars of Corona" Hope that helps.

    How much discount have you been able to get?
    the best quote for me has been 22500 for accord sport which is about 4200 off

    I was looking for EX. Not sport  The lowest I got was $2k off from invoice. About $4k off from msrp. It was from Culver city Honda. If you don't mind sharing, which dealer gave you $4200 off from msrp? I might try that dealer for the EX or EX hybrid. Thanks  

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    $2k below invoice is a very good deal. My only advice is to decide on the car you want and work on getting the best deal.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • baltazaarbaltazaar Posts: 15
    slick123 said:
    baltazaar said:
    slick123 said:
    slick123 said:
    The lowest I got quoted for 2018 Accord ex 1.5 is $24,272 + $80 doc fees(Cali) + taxes. That's $2k below invoice before doc fees. I just go through truecar and replied to their emails. I want to get it below $24k. Do you guys think I'll be able to get $23.5k during memorial weekend? In need of a car this month so waiting until 2019 models is out of option for me. Just out of curiosity, I see many people post here and buy EX-L. Just wondering is extra ~$2k worth it? I don't see major differences between EX and EX-L beside, leather seats, premium sound and memory driver seat. Thanks
    What dealer is this? Looking to get a sport and the best discount I have been able to get is 4K. Which SoCal dealers do you guys recommend 
    The dealer is "Culver City Honda" I'm still in the market and looking for one so I don't have any recommendation. The best quote from truecar I have gotten is from "Honda Cars of Corona" Hope that helps.
    How much discount have you been able to get?
    the best quote for me has been 22500 for accord sport which is about 4200 off
    I was looking for EX. Not sport  The lowest I got was $2k off from invoice. About $4k off from msrp. It was from Culver city Honda. If you don't mind sharing, which dealer gave you $4200 off from msrp? I might try that dealer for the EX or EX hybrid. Thanks  
    Honda of Torrance 
  • Hi, I'm obviously new here. Saw this thread as I was at the dealership so I figured I'd ask the forum for an assessment of what transpired today to see where I stand.

    Went to Planet Honda in Union, NJ looking for a 2018 EX-L Sport 2.0 with an msrp of 31,900. Went back and forth and their opening offer was 29,750 plus taxes and fees. offered 26,500. They countered with 28.5K and I said I wouldn't go higher than 27.5K. They came back with 27.5K + $695 for the package (wheel locks, etc.) + fees, and we could drive it home tonight. We started walking out and they stopped us and offered 27,775 including the package + fees.

    When I told them 27.5K was highest they would go, the sales manager said "let's do this, but let's complete the deal on Tuesday or Wednesday." I asked why we couldn't do the deal tonight (it was 6:30) and they didn't give me a straight answer. So they asked for a deposit and I said no, because I've seen too many stories where someone put down a deposit and didn't get it back. I made an appointment with them for Tuesday and I did let them run my credit, and they gave me the VIN number of the car I would be purchasing and there were 2 on the lot. (Took a pic of the inventory sheet.) There was no print out of any agreement so I got nothing in writing.

    So, first, do you all think 27.5K is a solid deal for this car? It looks like invoice is 27K+.

    Second, I thought it was weird that all of a sudden they switched from lets do this tonight at 28,200 to wanting to complete the sale Tuesday at the lower price. I'm pretty convinced that when I go back Tuesday, there will be a problem. I haven't bought a car from a dealer in quite a while, and it just didn't feel right. Do you think I have a reason to fear this?
  • tonyg2016tonyg2016 midwest, usaPosts: 721
    Your first mistake was negotiating in person at the dealership. That is a no-no. Test drive - yes. All negotiating is over email or phone where you have an even chance of success.

    A few signs of trouble:
    1. package for $695 of stuff probably worth 200 or less
    2. fees can add up to large amounts. what did they mean by "fees"
    3. delaying until tuesday means they will try to sell/trade that car so you have nothing to buy on tuesday

    You said you were new here so there is a lot to learn on this thread alone. Plenty of good info from experts who i hope will add to my comments.

    Lastly, there is no such model as an EX-L Sport 2.0; which is it?
  • tonyg2016 said:

    Your first mistake was negotiating in person at the dealership. That is a no-no. Test drive - yes. All negotiating is over email or phone where you have an even chance of success.

    A few signs of trouble:
    1. package for $695 of stuff probably worth 200 or less
    2. fees can add up to large amounts. what did they mean by "fees"
    3. delaying until tuesday means they will try to sell/trade that car so you have nothing to buy on tuesday

    You said you were new here so there is a lot to learn on this thread alone. Plenty of good info from experts who i hope will add to my comments.

    Lastly, there is no such model as an EX-L Sport 2.0; which is it?

    It was an EX-L 2.0 that included Sport mode. Sorry.

    And I had a feeling that #3 was going to happen. I think it was a good experience for me to see how they operate.

    And I guess by reading some other posts, I should be going for around $2000 under invoice, no? So I should begin with an offer of $23,700 or so when negotiating over phone and email?
  • tonyg2016tonyg2016 midwest, usaPosts: 721
    sample:
    https://www.vosshonda.com/new/Honda/2018-Honda-Accord-in+tipp+city+oh-3406e4d70a0e0ae770d7a92bd97adbd5.htm

    msrp 32860 (always include destination)
    invoice 30125

    base sell price + doc fee = REAL sell price (NJ typically has high doc fees)

    Your negotiated price of 27775 is excellent IF it includes the doc fee. I doubt that it does.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    @swampcerrano To add to what @tonyg2016 has said, I would suggest requesting an online price quote from another dealership. Another piece of advice would be to read up on previous posts. There is a ton of information on negotiating.

    Good luck.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • Jerseydevil01Jerseydevil01 South JerseyPosts: 150

    tonyg2016 said:

    Your first mistake was negotiating in person at the dealership. That is a no-no. Test drive - yes. All negotiating is over email or phone where you have an even chance of success.

    A few signs of trouble:
    1. package for $695 of stuff probably worth 200 or less
    2. fees can add up to large amounts. what did they mean by "fees"
    3. delaying until tuesday means they will try to sell/trade that car so you have nothing to buy on tuesday

    You said you were new here so there is a lot to learn on this thread alone. Plenty of good info from experts who i hope will add to my comments.

    Lastly, there is no such model as an EX-L Sport 2.0; which is it?

    It was an EX-L 2.0 that included Sport mode. Sorry.

    And I had a feeling that #3 was going to happen. I think it was a good experience for me to see how they operate.

    And I guess by reading some other posts, I should be going for around $2000 under invoice, no? So I should begin with an offer of $23,700 or so when negotiating over phone and email?
    The MSRP of the 2.0 EX-L is 32,865... the price they quoted of 31,900 probably does NOT include the destination fee of 890 which everyone pays, a common sales trick and they would definitely add on. Be careful.. if a deal smells fishy it usually is
  • sbs0sbs0 Posts: 11
    sbs0 said:
    How do you determine invoice price on a car?

    And how is this deal in Seattle?

    2.0T Sport:
    Sale price: $27,985
    OTD price: $31,518

    Tax is 10% and doc/registration fees are $650 (included in the OTD price)
    TrueCar or CarGurus list the invoice price of cars. CarGurus lists the invoice price of the 2.0 Sport at $27,721. So if you're being quoted $27,985 before any fees and TTL, that is above invoice price and not a good deal at all. I would look around or try to bring that down below invoice.
    How do you define a good deal?  Price including tax is at or below invoice or the sales price is below invoice and then you add tax, fees on top.
    $1200 to 1800 below invoice seems to be what most are getting after doc fees are calculated into the deal. Your state taxes, and dmv fee's are separated from the deal .
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- @sbs0 - To add to what has already been said. Here is my $0.02. A good deal is pricing below invoice for the model you are looking to purchase. A great deal is the best pricing below invoice you are able to negotiate in your area. For example, Mark who lives in California was able to negotiate a price that is $2k below invoice on a 2.0 T Touring. His doc fees are only $80. His effective deal is $1920 below invoice with doc fees. Mike lives in MA. He was also able to negotiate a price of $2k below invoice, but his dealer doc fees are $400. Hence, his effective deal is about $1600 below invoice with doc fees. Both Mark and Mike are happy with their deals since this was the best pricing in their area. As long as you have done research, are aware of pricing and any incentives applicable to the model you are looking to buy, you will be able to negotiate a good deal on a car. Just remember not to get emotional during the purchase process, and be ready to walk away from a bad deal. Good luck.
    Great! Thanks for the pointers.  Where does the acq fee fit in?  I often see it separate from invoice.  So $27,7 invoice for 2.0t sport + $895 acq fee.  In the hypothetical above is Mark's actual effective deal $1920 - acq fee?
    Acquisition fee only applies when you are leasing. So to summarize, take into account your dealer doc fees when negotiating the sale price of a car. 
    In this case I am leasing.  And they are also saying invoice is 28,8 and not 27,7 bc I did not include destination charge.  Does inv include dc?
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    edited May 2018
    tonyg2016 said:

    Your first mistake was negotiating in person at the dealership. That is a no-no. Test drive - yes. All negotiating is over email or phone where you have an even chance of success.

    A few signs of trouble:
    1. package for $695 of stuff probably worth 200 or less
    2. fees can add up to large amounts. what did they mean by "fees"
    3. delaying until tuesday means they will try to sell/trade that car so you have nothing to buy on tuesday

    You said you were new here so there is a lot to learn on this thread alone. Plenty of good info from experts who i hope will add to my comments.

    Lastly, there is no such model as an EX-L Sport 2.0; which is it?



    So True its the only way to buy .............................................. @tony2016


    I just negotiated on the phone , bought (3) vehicles for 2 friends today. Buying this way is not for everyone, But its very effective when dealers know they have a Immediate sale. Sitting in the comfort of my house in S.C. after 18 holes of golf a nice cigar cold beverage on this wonderful memorial day weekend.

    I secured a deal for 2 vehicles within 30 mins. ( same car ) The last vehicle took me one hour and going thru 12 dealerships . Now my two friends can go to the dealerships sign paperwork... pay & enjoy there new rides.



    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    sbs0 said:
    sbs0 said:
    How do you determine invoice price on a car?

    And how is this deal in Seattle?

    2.0T Sport:
    Sale price: $27,985
    OTD price: $31,518

    Tax is 10% and doc/registration fees are $650 (included in the OTD price)
    TrueCar or CarGurus list the invoice price of cars. CarGurus lists the invoice price of the 2.0 Sport at $27,721. So if you're being quoted $27,985 before any fees and TTL, that is above invoice price and not a good deal at all. I would look around or try to bring that down below invoice.
    How do you define a good deal?  Price including tax is at or below invoice or the sales price is below invoice and then you add tax, fees on top.
    $1200 to 1800 below invoice seems to be what most are getting after doc fees are calculated into the deal. Your state taxes, and dmv fee's are separated from the deal .
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- @sbs0 - To add to what has already been said. Here is my $0.02. A good deal is pricing below invoice for the model you are looking to purchase. A great deal is the best pricing below invoice you are able to negotiate in your area. For example, Mark who lives in California was able to negotiate a price that is $2k below invoice on a 2.0 T Touring. His doc fees are only $80. His effective deal is $1920 below invoice with doc fees. Mike lives in MA. He was also able to negotiate a price of $2k below invoice, but his dealer doc fees are $400. Hence, his effective deal is about $1600 below invoice with doc fees. Both Mark and Mike are happy with their deals since this was the best pricing in their area. As long as you have done research, are aware of pricing and any incentives applicable to the model you are looking to buy, you will be able to negotiate a good deal on a car. Just remember not to get emotional during the purchase process, and be ready to walk away from a bad deal. Good luck.
    Great! Thanks for the pointers.  Where does the acq fee fit in?  I often see it separate from invoice.  So $27,7 invoice for 2.0t sport + $895 acq fee.  In the hypothetical above is Mark's actual effective deal $1920 - acq fee?
    Acquisition fee only applies when you are leasing. So to summarize, take into account your dealer doc fees when negotiating the sale price of a car. 
    In this case I am leasing.  And they are also saying invoice is 28,8 and not 27,7 bc I did not include destination charge.  Does inv include dc?
    My advice is to move onto another dealership that will be more honest with you. All my calculations and numbers from MSRP to invoice always include the destination charge. It is part of the price of the car. 
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • ral2167ral2167 ohioPosts: 767
    All this talk about negotiating over the phone or by email is great unless you have a trade in. 
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    edited May 2018
    ral2167 said:

    All this talk about negotiating over the phone or by email is great unless you have a trade in. 


    Same applies. Mention no trade at first. Negotiate online or buy phone your 3 lowest deals then drive your vehicle over to dealers to see who gives............. a fair to good trade.

    Or just drive to each targeted dealership working on a good solid price 1st, then mention trade at the very end before buying. Once a dealer gives you X price they wont raise deal due to a trade in. If they do walk out.

    Note : If your not ready to buy car the day you go to dealerships you will waste your time.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    ral2167 said:
    All this talk about negotiating over the phone or by email is great unless you have a trade in. 
    If you have a Carmax close to you, take your car there to get it appraised. Then ask dealers to match their trade in value. 
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • ral2167ral2167 ohioPosts: 767
    brian125 said:

    ral2167 said:

    All this talk about negotiating over the phone or by email is great unless you have a trade in. 


    Same applies. Mention no trade at first. Negotiate online or buy phone your 3 lowest deals then drive your vehicle over to dealers to see who gives............. a fair to good trade.

    Or just drive to each targeted dealership working on a good solid price 1st, then mention trade at the very end before buying. Once a dealer gives you X price they wont raise deal due to a trade in. If they do walk out.

    Note : If your not ready to buy car the day you go to dealerships you will waste your time.

    I'm wasting time by going to a dealer and not ready to buy??? Huh? Doesn't anyone test drive cars today?
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    edited May 2018
    The first time you go to a dealer is while doing your homework . Homework consist of Test drives, desired options , colors along with dealer info & charges like there doc fee if your state has not capped them , other questions may be how long will it take to get my model if ordered , etc .

    Never discuss pricing on any 1st visit to dealerships. your looking at comparable models, bring a big pad write down dealership names, #'s, details about the vehicle you may want to buy. Ask dealer about there financing and any Incentives to buy or lease. When you have done all your test drives and know exact make and model you want then you could go back to dealerships, Now your ready to buy and can make your best possible deal.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    ral2167 said:
    All this talk about negotiating over the phone or by email is great unless you have a trade in. 
    Same applies. Mention no trade at first. Negotiate online or buy phone your 3 lowest deals then drive your vehicle over to dealers to see who gives............. a fair to good trade. Or just drive to each targeted dealership working on a good solid price 1st, then mention trade at the very end before buying. Once a dealer gives you X price they wont raise deal due to a trade in. If they do walk out. Note : If your not ready to buy car the day you go to dealerships you will waste your time.
    I'm wasting time by going to a dealer and not ready to buy??? Huh? Doesn't anyone test drive cars today?
    Of course you can go test drive a car at a dealership. But as @brian125 said, do not waste your time attempting to negotiate the price of car when you have not done your homework. If you are ready to buy the same day you test drive a car,  just make sure you have a reasonable number in mind (after doing your research). Be ready to walk out anytime. 

    My $0.02. Good luck.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • So does anything change if you go the negotiating route by phone instead of email?
  • ral2167ral2167 ohioPosts: 767
    brian125 said:
    Your first mistake was negotiating in person at the dealership. That is a no-no. Test drive - yes. All negotiating is over email or phone where you have an even chance of success. A few signs of trouble: 1. package for $695 of stuff probably worth 200 or less 2. fees can add up to large amounts. what did they mean by "fees" 3. delaying until tuesday means they will try to sell/trade that car so you have nothing to buy on tuesday You said you were new here so there is a lot to learn on this thread alone. Plenty of good info from experts who i hope will add to my comments. Lastly, there is no such model as an EX-L Sport 2.0; which is it?
    So True its the only way to buy .............................................. @tony2016 I just negotiated on the phone , bought (3) vehicles for 2 friends today. Buying this way is not for everyone, But its very effective when dealers know they have a Immediate sale. Sitting in the comfort of my house in S.C. after 18 holes of golf a nice cigar cold beverage on this wonderful memorial day weekend. I secured a deal for 2 vehicles within 30 mins. ( same car ) The last vehicle took me one hour and going thru 12 dealerships . Now my two friends can go to the dealerships sign paperwork... pay & enjoy there new rides.
    Must not have had trade ins involved. 
  • Jerseydevil01Jerseydevil01 South JerseyPosts: 150

    So does anything change if you go the negotiating route by phone instead of email?

    They are both the same but with email you have a deal in writing and over the phone you have no proof of an offer. Say it, forget it, write it, regret it
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    So does anything change if you go the negotiating route by phone instead of email?
    Why waste your time over the phone, when you can negotiate via email? Time is money and I would always recommend using e-mail to car shop.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • So here is what I got from Paul Miller Honda for the 2018 EX-L 2.0 . Does anyone here think this is too much for North Jersey?

    $27,955
    890 Dest
    398 Doc Fee
    7.85 Online Reg
    1,937.87 Sales Tax
    296 Dmv Fee
    7.50 Tire Tax
    $31,492.22 Total
  • billartbillart Posts: 14

    So does anything change if you go the negotiating route by phone instead of email?

    They are both the same but with email you have a deal in writing and over the phone you have no proof of an offer. Say it, forget it, write it, regret it
    I did most of my negotiating over the phone, but told each dealer to email me the detailed offer. If they wouldn't they were out of consideration. Most will do so, at least here in central Florida.
  • sebek75sebek75 Linden NJPosts: 47

    So here is what I got from Paul Miller Honda for the 2018 EX-L 2.0 . Does anyone here think this is too much for North Jersey?

    $27,955
    890 Dest
    398 Doc Fee
    7.85 Online Reg
    1,937.87 Sales Tax
    296 Dmv Fee
    7.50 Tire Tax
    $31,492.22 Total

    I went to three Honda dealers in central NJ and the best price I get was $28,685 so your price is the lowest I saw anywhere in this forum for EX-L 2.0 ...
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    edited May 2018
    @Billart I agree with you . I bought hundreds of vehicles this way.

    When you deal with each dealerships Internet mgr (only) you either make a deal or you don't . Its a very fast process because all the Int. Mgrs. know there bottom line price. Once a deal is struck the mgr. could send a email conformation or Fax the buyers order to you ( bill of sale ) with price and car details. Then after you both sign paperwork you could leave deposit if dealer is not close. There are not many folks who can do this type of negotiating, but if you can, its fast and pain free . Buying this way avoids all the pricing Bs & dealership games. Dealers know your informed and a experienced buyer. MGRS. looking to sell will make a play for your business that moment I guarantee you that. Again for this to work its ..... being informed with pricing and for both parties need to be reasonable. That's the art of the Deal.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • sebek75sebek75 Linden NJPosts: 47

    tonyg2016 said:

    Your first mistake was negotiating in person at the dealership. That is a no-no. Test drive - yes. All negotiating is over email or phone where you have an even chance of success.

    A few signs of trouble:
    1. package for $695 of stuff probably worth 200 or less
    2. fees can add up to large amounts. what did they mean by "fees"
    3. delaying until tuesday means they will try to sell/trade that car so you have nothing to buy on tuesday

    You said you were new here so there is a lot to learn on this thread alone. Plenty of good info from experts who i hope will add to my comments.

    Lastly, there is no such model as an EX-L Sport 2.0; which is it?

    It was an EX-L 2.0 that included Sport mode. Sorry.

    And I had a feeling that #3 was going to happen. I think it was a good experience for me to see how they operate.

    And I guess by reading some other posts, I should be going for around $2000 under invoice, no? So I should begin with an offer of $23,700 or so when negotiating over phone and email?
    Please keep us posted what will happen tomorrow with your deal. I was there last week at Planet Honda and was trying to lease EX-L 2.0 but the lease numbers were outrageous so now I am thinking to buy it. My credit Union offers 3.25% for 7 years so my payment will be under $400. My best selling price was at DCH Honda at $28,685 so your is almost $1K less. If you gonna get it on Tuesday I will go there as well :)
  • So on the phone who do you ask to speak to?
  • john4545john4545 Posts: 136

    So on the phone who do you ask to speak to?

    Read @brian125 posts on this ... he took the time to help me along If you IM Brian I'm sure he will give you a detailed order exactly how to buy thru dealers internet dept manager, or online. They are both very effective ways to purchase a vehicle without stepping foot in dealership. Like brian posted your negotiating directly with the internet manger just like your sitting at the dealership at there desk.
    I have lined up 4 Honda int mgrs. in NJ.. 4 in Philly & DE. the rest of dealers on my list I have removed because dealers want me to come in. I'm going to wait another month maybe two to see if we get flex cash of 1000 dollars back, if not i'll buy my Accord from the dealership that gives me the lowest price .

    @bluemkn57cars gave me a few dealers in Boston who I already spoke to there internet manger, but I think I will purchase closer to me house due to my inexperience at car buying

    Hope this helps you............................................john

  • john4545john4545 Posts: 136
    sebek75 said:

    tonyg2016 said:

    Your first mistake was negotiating in person at the dealership. That is a no-no. Test drive - yes. All negotiating is over email or phone where you have an even chance of success.

    A few signs of trouble:
    1. package for $695 of stuff probably worth 200 or less
    2. fees can add up to large amounts. what did they mean by "fees"
    3. delaying until tuesday means they will try to sell/trade that car so you have nothing to buy on tuesday

    You said you were new here so there is a lot to learn on this thread alone. Plenty of good info from experts who i hope will add to my comments.

    Lastly, there is no such model as an EX-L Sport 2.0; which is it?

    It was an EX-L 2.0 that included Sport mode. Sorry.

    And I had a feeling that #3 was going to happen. I think it was a good experience for me to see how they operate.

    And I guess by reading some other posts, I should be going for around $2000 under invoice, no? So I should begin with an offer of $23,700 or so when negotiating over phone and email?
    Please keep us posted what will happen tomorrow with your deal. I was there last week at Planet Honda and was trying to lease EX-L 2.0 but the lease numbers were outrageous so now I am thinking to buy it. My credit Union offers 3.25% for 7 years so my payment will be under $400. My best selling price was at DCH Honda at $28,685 so your is almost $1K less. If you gonna get it on Tuesday I will go there as well :)
    I emailed DCH Honda last month and had the same problem with package add on's . I too would not mind buying my model for about 1000 less than they quoted but without the package charge. Dealer must be making a good dollar on these pcks. another dealer in NJ. Hamilton had the same crap on there vehicles I removed them from my list be careful at Hamilton when I went to dealership they wasted my time and they lied to me about what was in vehicle.

  • john4545john4545 Posts: 136
    Sorry I meant to say I emailed Planet Honda and not DCH Honda .
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    edited May 2018
    I just wanted to make a few important points here. Car buying can be stressful, however, folks like @brian125 and myself try to share information that will make the process smooth and less stressful. You do not have to follow all the advice given here, but we practice what we preach.

    Some folks would rather walk into a dealership and make a deal. While some would rather call and speak to someone. As for myself, I'd rather email dealerships for pricing and do my research. When I am ready to buy, I might email dealers for their best pricing and finalize all the details over the phone. Choose the approach that works best for you.

    It takes time (a few weeks) to do research, look up pricing, figure out whether there are any incentives, and make a deal. I have said this before but I will say it again, if something sounds too good to be true, it is probably is. If a dealer is unwilling to share information with you or is not being transparent then move onto another dealership. If they want you come into the dealership to negotiate, put them on the spot and tell them you will only come in once you have agreed on a sale price. You can use the BUY TODAY tactic (only if you are planning to buy that day) .

    There is a ton of information in this forum, in other forums and online. Always give yourself enough time (if possible) to do research and read up on previous posts. You will always come out on top and will not be victim to some dealers' BS and lies.

    So use whatever tactic you feel comfortable with or has worked for you in the past. There is no one size fits all when car buying, but I can guarantee that if you are an uninformed buyer, dealers can smell that and you will end up overpaying for a car.

    Hope this info helps someone make a deal this month or next month.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 145,625
    Good points...

    Do your research and set a target price.. then, do whatever works for you.
    If I have a local dealer that has the car I want, I start there. If I get my price, I'm done.

    I have no interest in days of communication, involving dealers hundreds of miles away, to beat out the last $200.
    But, if you have time/interest in that sort of thing, have at it.

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974

    So on the phone who do you ask to speak to?

    As @john4545 stated, please read previous posts on this. Feel free to read my latest post. A few questions for you:
    1. Have you settled on a trim and color of the car you are looking to buy?
    2. Have you researched pricing in your area?
    3. Do you have a reasonable number in mind for pricing, after doing research?
    Some advice:
    1. If you are financing, know your credit score so that dealers do not play games.
    2. If you have done all your research, then you can either email or call and speak with internet managers/sales managers with an offer of buying the car today for $XX,XXX. Some of their contact info is listed on a dealer's website.
    3. Always be prepared to walk out at anytime. At the end of the day, it is your money.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    kyfdx said:

    Good points...

    Do your research and set a target price.. then, do whatever works for you.
    If I have a local dealer that has the car I want, I start there. If I get my price, I'm done.

    I have no interest in days of communication, involving dealers hundreds of miles away, to beat out the last $200.
    But, if you have time/interest in that sort of thing, have at it.

    Big shout out to you and @Michaell for providing valuable info about leasing (MF, RV and incentives) and general car buying advice.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • john4545john4545 Posts: 136

    So on the phone who do you ask to speak to?

    As @john4545 stated, please read previous posts on this. Feel free to read my latest post. A few questions for you:
    1. Have you settled on a trim and color of the car you are looking to buy?
    2. Have you researched pricing in your area?
    3. Do you have a reasonable number in mind for pricing, after doing research?
    Some advice:
    1. If you are financing, know your credit score so that dealers do not play games.
    2. If you have done all your research, then you can either email or call and speak with internet managers/sales managers with an offer of buying the car today for $XX,XXX. Some of their contact info is listed on a dealer's website.
    3. Always be prepared to walk out at anytime. At the end of the day, it is your money.
    Good advice gotta be prepared . I have found out these last 3 months that a good internet mgr that knows there stuff or should I say dealerships that's willing to sell online or give finally prices by phone is the only way to buy. . There are more dealerships that wont do business this way, to bad it would make car buying fun then
  • john4545john4545 Posts: 136
    blue
    Honda cars of boston by you, and the one you recommended to me . Well there int dept / mgr gets 5 out of 5 stars . I see why this dealership sells a lot of Honda vehicles. I had the general manager send me a email to see if he could do anything else to help me with a out of state purchase after talking to the int / mgr. These guys don't play around at this dealership they are good.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    john4545 said:

    blue
    Honda cars of boston by you, and the one you recommended to me . Well there int dept / mgr gets 5 out of 5 stars . I see why this dealership sells a lot of Honda vehicles. I had the general manager send me a email to see if he could do anything else to help me with a out of state purchase after talking to the int / mgr. These guys don't play around at this dealership they are good.

    You are correct. Their initial online pricing is very aggressive and they know there are other Honda dealers in the Boston area. Their customer service is next to no other Honda dealer I have dealt with in the past.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • john4545john4545 Posts: 136
    do you think Honda cars could fly me up there and i'll drive my new accord back to PA
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    john4545 said:

    do you think Honda cars could fly me up there and i'll drive my new accord back to PA

    I doubt it, but you could ask. PA dealers do not want to play ball?
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • Jerseydevil01Jerseydevil01 South JerseyPosts: 150
    The elephant in the room still is the fact that the dealership lots are overflowing with accords although I am now seeing more and more on the road. Their sales figures http://carsalesbase.com/us-car-sales-data/honda/honda-accord/ reflect this fact. I , like many are hoping the flexcash comes back soon and if it does it probably will motivate many but it will be short of a firesale. I also just noticed that honda again increased the dest fee up to 895, I guess because of the price of gas. I am lucky to only want a new car and not need a new car... makes life easier
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974

    The elephant in the room still is the fact that the dealership lots are overflowing with accords although I am now seeing more and more on the road. Their sales figures http://carsalesbase.com/us-car-sales-data/honda/honda-accord/ reflect this fact. I , like many are hoping the flexcash comes back soon and if it does it probably will motivate many but it will be short of a firesale. I also just noticed that honda again increased the dest fee up to 895, I guess because of the price of gas. I am lucky to only want a new car and not need a new car... makes life easier

    There is a lot more competition from other manufacturers such as Toyota offering better incentives. More folks are also buying SUVs instead of sedans these days. I have also not seeing a lot of '18 Accords on the road here in Boston.

    @jerseydevil01 - Just like you, I am in no rush to buy a new car. I am also looking at other brands and will go with the best overall value if I do purchase this year.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • john4545john4545 Posts: 136
    maybe Honda thinks selling there accords at x price and not budging till summertime will even out with heavy discounts later to hold- out buyer last half of the year. Is that possible? There is no rhyme or reason why dealerships are so overstocked, sales are slipping , losing out to Nissan Toyota, Hyundai & Kia
  • Thanks to all for the help!

    On price research in my area or in general like outside my area, how do I go about it?
    Been using CarGurus price analysis a lil don't know if that works

    Sorry for the newb questions
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    john4545 said:

    maybe Honda thinks selling there accords at x price and not budging till summertime will even out with heavy discounts later to hold- out buyer last half of the year. Is that possible? There is no rhyme or reason why dealerships are so overstocked, sales are slipping , losing out to Nissan Toyota, Hyundai & Kia

    I am sure you heard about Honda halting production of the accord for a couple of weeks due to declining sales. Here is the problem for Honda. Since the 2018 model was a redesigned model, the 2019 model will be unchanged once it is released. So if you are a buyer looking for a good deal on an Accord, would you buy an '18 (if Honda decides to offer incentives) or would you just buy a '19? Dealers have a lot of Accords on their lots and since most are not ready to budge on pricing, the next few months are going to be a deciding factor for the Finance folks at HQ.

    Are they going to offer incentives for buying and leasing, so that folks like us will be more inclined to buy or are just going to leave things as is and hope that the Accord sells itself? On the flip side, some folks have been flocking to the Acura TLX since lease incentives are more generous. Time will tell, but I think Honda has lost the gamble on this.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • Heres another from Garden State Honda. 

    2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 
     
    Quote  27616
    Dest 890
    Acc 150.95
    DMV 317.45
    Taxes 1927.54
    Doc 429
     
    Total 31330.94

    Not sure what the Acc is.  He said he could come down another $200 yo $300 hundred from that after I counteroffered $27,500 OTD. 
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974

    Thanks to all for the help!

    On price research in my area or in general like outside my area, how do I go about it?
    Been using CarGurus price analysis a lil don't know if that works

    Sorry for the newb questions

    You can start here in this forum, comparing pricing in your area and out of state pricing. You can also use truecar.com to compare pricing, but I am not a big fan of their car buying service. Cargurus is just a listing service for cars up for sale. I doubt you will get much value out of it.

    You can also search online for "prices paid for a Honda Accord" or "prices paid for a 2018 Honda Accord" to see what comes up.

    Good luck.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    edited May 2018

    Heres another from Garden State Honda. 

    2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 
     
    Quote  27616
    Dest 890
    Acc 150.95
    DMV 317.45
    Taxes 1927.54
    Doc 429
     
    Total 31330.94

    Not sure what the Acc is.  He said he could come down another $200 yo $300 hundred from that after I counteroffered $27,500 OTD. 


    This deal is $1618 below Invoice minus the 429 doc =................... $1189 below invoice.

    $200 to 500 off this deal is probably the best you will do in NJ this month. I would use your above target price knock off another $500 to @28k ( which includes destination of $895 ) then email / call every dealer your willing to travel to. End of the month is when you start negotiating price with dealers. start today or tomorrow with your emails & calls to dealers

    You now have a legit / fair offer( @28,511 ). its not a great price so try building on it. Now see what other dealerships will take a 28k offer? This is what I preach about buying, pit one dealer against the next. Hold out to the 31st if you have to. Leave your number and a note if emailing telling dealers you buy for 28k. Then sit back and wait till the 31st let the dealers chase you...... on that day (31st ) if you get no counter offers or your target price then and only then make your best deal if your ready to buy. .

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    swampcerrano

    Remember your buying in NJ so stay within the price guidelines your states selling Accords at, especially if you want the vehicle this month. You will make the best possible deal this month if you get more dealers involved in the price wars.

    Good Luck

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

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