@Rhoff No point in working on that deal. Over $600/mo, all in. Find another dealer, or a different car.
Just curious what you or others have seen or negotiated that are considered good deals for the A class?
For example, the package I'm looking at has an MSRP of $37335, sales $34335. Like others, I'll have to order it.
MF .00139, RES 59% on a 36/12 and no money down.
Total tax 6% which I must pay up front, along with title, tag, and dealer fees.
By my calculations, the cost should be ~$3800 drive-off and $420/month.
Deal quoted is ~$3800 drive off and ~$455/month. I have not sat down with the dealer to go over the numbers just yet.
I suppose the dealer has to make some money, so that may account for the difference in monthly payments. Thoughts?
First, you don't have to pay the taxes up front - you can choose to add them to the cap cost and make them part of the monthly payment.
Second, the only two variables in a lease are the MF and the net cap cost. The difference in payment could be as simple as the addition of the MB acquisition fee (base $795, often marked up to $1095).
Ask the dealer for a copy of the lease deal sheet, and we can break it down.
@Rhoff No point in working on that deal. Over $600/mo, all in. Find another dealer, or a different car.
Just curious what you or others have seen or negotiated that are considered good deals for the A class?
For example, the package I'm looking at has an MSRP of $37335, sales $34335. Like others, I'll have to order it.
MF .00139, RES 59% on a 36/12 and no money down.
Total tax 6% which I must pay up front, along with title, tag, and dealer fees.
By my calculations, the cost should be ~$3800 drive-off and $420/month.
Deal quoted is ~$3800 drive off and ~$455/month. I have not sat down with the dealer to go over the numbers just yet.
I suppose the dealer has to make some money, so that may account for the difference in monthly payments. Thoughts?
If you order the car today, let's say it takes 2-3 months to arrive. If the MF changes in June/July, the lease cost will change based on that. The only thing you can (and should) negotiate today is the selling price.
@Rhoff No point in working on that deal. Over $600/mo, all in. Find another dealer, or a different car.
Just curious what you or others have seen or negotiated that are considered good deals for the A class?
For example, the package I'm looking at has an MSRP of $37335, sales $34335. Like others, I'll have to order it.
MF .00139, RES 59% on a 36/12 and no money down.
Total tax 6% which I must pay up front, along with title, tag, and dealer fees.
By my calculations, the cost should be ~$3800 drive-off and $420/month.
Deal quoted is ~$3800 drive off and ~$455/month. I have not sat down with the dealer to go over the numbers just yet.
I suppose the dealer has to make some money, so that may account for the difference in monthly payments. Thoughts?
If you order the car today, let's say it takes 2-3 months to arrive. If the MF changes in June/July, the lease cost will change based on that. The only thing you can (and should) negotiate today is the selling price.
You should also negotiate the fact that you'll use the base MF (whatever it is) when the deal is made.
What would be the residual and MF for a FWD A220 in 85298? Also if anyone has any experience, how much would I be able to negotiate off MSRP reasonably? I got 10% off just by asking a dealer, anyone have any better luck?
What would be the residual and MF for a FWD A220 in 85298? Also if anyone has any experience, how much would I be able to negotiate off MSRP reasonably? I got 10% off just by asking a dealer, anyone have any better luck?
…… Also if anyone has any experience, how much would I be able to negotiate off MSRP reasonably? I got 10% off just by asking a dealer, anyone have any better luck?
You are doing better than I am on the price. My dealer telling me on a C they can do 10% discount, but on the A220 they will only discount $1000. According to them, slimmer margin and demand very strong vs supply. When I just looked at the TMV link, it is saying the A220 4Matic can be had for $320 over invoice. I am going to the dealer again later today.
What would be the residual and MF for a FWD A220 in 85298? Also if anyone has any experience, how much would I be able to negotiate off MSRP reasonably? I got 10% off just by asking a dealer, anyone have any better luck?
I did a custom order, and went back and forth between two dealers to get a 9% discount. Getting a larger discount on an in-stock vehicle seems totally doable.
To recap, I am the one looking at an A220 4Matic for 36/10. I did go to the dealer again yesterday, and they were more negotiable on the price. Discounted about 5%. This is my question. When I checked their numbers, I came up with a higher lease pmt. Their payment is $629.53. I get $667.92. This is the deal detail sheet. The only change is that they show the Acq Fee at $1095 vs. $795. They made a note by hand that they will adjust that $300 off at delivery, so it should make their payment a bit less. This is an ordered car which will be here in July, and I know the rates will change, but this was calculated as though we were taking delivery at April rates.
To recap, I am the one looking at an A220 4Matic for 36/10. I did go to the dealer again yesterday, and they were more negotiable on the price. Discounted about 5%. This is my question. When I checked their numbers, I came up with a higher lease pmt. Their payment is $629.53. I get $667.92. This is the deal detail sheet. The only change is that they show the Acq Fee at $1095 vs. $795. They made a note by hand that they will adjust that $300 off at delivery, so it should make their payment a bit less. This is an ordered car which will be here in July, and I know the rates will change, but this was calculated as though we were taking delivery at April rates.
$46,360 is the sale price and the adjusted CAP cost.
With .00134 MF and 60% residual, the calculated payment is correct. The 2139.05 is Due at Signing. If they want to lower the price by $300, all they have to do is take it off that amount.
Thanks for your fast response! I have an offer from a dealership that I am considering.. This was their initial offer.
43195.00 MSRP 2019 A-220 AWD Sales price: 41245.00 527.20 with taxes and fees due at signing of 3751.28
Upfront fee consists of: 527.20=first payment 1095=bankfee which includes gap insurance 499=doc fee 254.50=3 year registration 6.60=motor vehicle online processing fee 6.00=nj tire tax 4x1.50 each taxes at 6.625 percent=1362.98
residual buyout at .59 percent=25485.05 money factor .00134
-------------------------------------------
I was able to cut down the sales price to 40,000 even, which would bring down the monthly payment to roughly 490.94.. Would this be a reasonable deal?
Thanks for your fast response! I have an offer from a dealership that I am considering.. This was their initial offer.
43195.00 MSRP 2019 A-220 AWD Sales price: 41245.00 527.20 with taxes and fees due at signing of 3751.28
Upfront fee consists of: 527.20=first payment 1095=bankfee which includes gap insurance 499=doc fee 254.50=3 year registration 6.60=motor vehicle online processing fee 6.00=nj tire tax 4x1.50 each taxes at 6.625 percent=1362.98
residual buyout at .59 percent=25485.05 money factor .00134
-------------------------------------------
I was able to cut down the sales price to 40,000 even, which would bring down the monthly payment to roughly 490.94.. Would this be a reasonable deal?
Thanks in advance, Jun Lee
I confirm .00134 and 59%
Acquisition fee is marked up from $795.
I agree with your math. Looks like a decent deal on a vehicle with just an adequate lease program.
Our recommendation is to add the bank fee, the doc fee and the taxes into the monthly payment. Your payment will be higher, but the out of pocket costs will come way down.
And, if the car is stolen or totaled, you would lose that up front outlay.
Hi! What is the money factor and residual on the front-wheel drive A220 in 32814? 36 months, 7,500 miles per year.
I'm talking to a local dealer and they're refusing to go below 0.00189, telling me they won't make any profit if they go lower than that. The other local dealer doesn't want to give me the actual money factor and just wants to talk monthly payments, but I figured out that they're offering 0.00175 based on the price/payments. They also claim going any lower will put them in the poor house.
Is there any truth to their "need" to mark up the money factor or is this just them being a little greedy? Does the dealership truly not make any profit if they give you the car at the base money factor?
Thanks for your time! I'm learning a lot on these forums.
Hi! What is the money factor and residual on the front-wheel drive A220 in 32814? 36 months, 7,500 miles per year.
I'm talking to a local dealer and they're refusing to go below 0.00189, telling me they won't make any profit if they go lower than that. The other local dealer doesn't want to give me the actual money factor and just wants to talk monthly payments, but I figured out that they're offering 0.00175 based on the price/payments. They also claim going any lower will put them in the poor house.
Is there any truth to their "need" to mark up the money factor or is this just them being a little greedy? Does the dealership truly not make any profit if they give you the car at the base money factor?
Thanks for your time! I'm learning a lot on these forums.
.00139 and 61%
Dealer will say a lot of things to get you to sign the contract.
Now that you know the MF is marked up, tell them both the first to offer you a deal with the base MF gets your signature.
There is no way for anyone to know what constitutes a profitable deal for the dealer.
I do know that if you wait until the end of the month, they might be more hungry for your business.
So the one dealer offering 0.00189 emailed me tonight to say they can’t go lower on the MF, but they’re willing to knock down the price of the car so that the monthly payments work out to be exactly the same as they would be if they gave me the base MF. Does that make any sense? I’m wondering what the angle is here.
So the one dealer offering 0.00189 emailed me tonight to say they can’t go lower on the MF, but they’re willing to knock down the price of the car so that the monthly payments work out to be exactly the same as they would be if they gave me the base MF. Does that make any sense? I’m wondering what the angle is here.
The angle is that the commission to the salesperson gets cut, and the commission to the F&I person increases. If they payment is the same, I guess it doesn't matter how much is depreciation and how much is rent charge.
But, continue to negotiate with both dealers for the right to earn your business.
could i get mf incentive and residual on A220
fwd/awd
36/12 36/10
77043 zip
Thanks in advance
36/12
FWD - .00139 and 59%
AWD - .00134 and 59%
No lease incentives
Are may’s Numbers the same? Thanks. I had a solid offer but was hoping to get more incentives this month.
No changes
No incentives
Thank you so much for the help. Here’s my deal.
They used 3 1000 rebate coupons and I just paid 556 and left with the car. The only issue was i feel like i got duped into getting the maintenance plan for an additional $29 a month.
so my monthly payments are 449 instead of 420 and I was told I could only get the maintenance plan at that moment in time. I also feel like they lied to me about the mf and told me I was getting buy rate but I just did the calculation and I think it comes out to be .00210. Is there anything I can do about the maintenance such as cancel that or fight for a buy rate. I know its late and I just picked up the car yesterday but I believe Texas has a 3 day return policy no questions asked.
could i get mf incentive and residual on A220
fwd/awd
36/12 36/10
77043 zip
Thanks in advance
36/12
FWD - .00139 and 59%
AWD - .00134 and 59%
No lease incentives
Are may’s Numbers the same? Thanks. I had a solid offer but was hoping to get more incentives this month.
No changes
No incentives
Thank you so much for the help. Here’s my deal.
They used 3 1000 rebate coupons and I just paid 556 and left with the car. The only issue was i feel like i got duped into getting the maintenance plan for an additional $29 a month.
so my monthly payments are 449 instead of 420 and I was told I could only get the maintenance plan at that moment in time. I also feel like they lied to me about the mf and told me I was getting buy rate but I just did the calculation and I think it comes out to be .00210. Is there anything I can do about the maintenance such as cancel that or fight for a buy rate. I know its late and I just picked up the car yesterday but I believe Texas has a 3 day return policy no questions asked.
@drozj14 There is no "cooling off" period. You can't bring it back.
But, let's look at the deal.
FWD model? 36/10 lease?
You aren't paying that full amount of $1470 for the maintenance plan. It appears they were able to add $1020 of that amount to the MSRP, raising the residual by $612. That makes your net cost $858. I'd guess the cost of the plan was marked up, but being able to residualize some of it probably makes it worth having. (at $858)
Only $558.75 for tax in Texas? Did they have Texas tax credits? It appears so, with that amount. That is a $2000 savings.
$5500 off MSRP, plus another $3000 in certificates is a big discount. Offset somewhat by the acquisition fee being marked up by $300.
I agree with your assessment of the money factor. It appears that it is marked up to .00210. That adds just over $45/mo., or about $1625 total.
Overall, in TX, it looks like a pretty good deal (considering the normal TX tax amount). The dealer added some markups to take advantage of the extra incentive certificates they used on your deal, but they also discounted the vehicle below their cost, I think. Then, the tax credits were icing on the cake.
@drozj14 There is no "cooling off" period. You can't bring it back.
But, let's look at the deal.
FWD model? 36/10 lease?
You aren't paying that full amount of $1470 for the maintenance plan. It appears they were able to add $1020 of that amount to the MSRP, raising the residual by $612. That makes your net cost $858. I'd guess the cost of the plan was marked up, but being able to residualize some of it probably makes it worth having. (at $858)
Only $558.75 for tax in Texas? Did they have Texas tax credits? It appears so, with that amount. That is a $2000 savings.
$5500 off MSRP, plus another $3000 in certificates is a big discount. Offset somewhat by the acquisition fee being marked up by $300.
I agree with your assessment of the money factor. It appears that it is marked up to .00210. That adds just over $45/mo., or about $1625 total.
Overall, in TX, it looks like a pretty good deal (considering the normal TX tax amount). The dealer added some markups to take advantage of the extra incentive certificates they used on your deal, but they also discounted the vehicle below their cost, I think. Then, the tax credits were icing on the cake.
Thanks for your feedback. I think I was just over going from dealer to dealer and assumed the mf was buy rate because I had some calculations done for a more expensive car and any payment that was 60 or 70 lower i believed to be fair, I guess I was wrong and should have started the calculations before confirming.
There is a lot of magic in the calculation you pasted. But you can't really do much about it.
1. Let me start with the good, You actually seem to have a pretty good deal in hand overall. You could have saved a few pennies on top, but do you want to spend 40 hours and save another 5 bucks a month? Not worth it in my opinion. 2. Dealers lie when they tell you their lease calculators are audited and it all has to be above the table. Nope. Have you seen the final contract you sign? It has none of this financial wizardry on the contract. Just some peripheral numbers. Those lease contracts insulate the dealers and the banks well. 3. I think MBFS charges between 495 and 1095 lease termination/acquisition fees based on a number of factors, including what discounts you are bringing to the table, your credit score, etc. I don't know about other banks 4. As Kyfdx pointed out, the biggest chunk of excess cash you paid is in the marked up MF, but they had to make up money because for a new series (A), your net cap cost is pretty low and thereby, your overall deal is pretty good. I know cars are sitting on lots a lot longer last 2-3 months, but I thought A supply side was still pretty tight. 5. I think you paid $32.4 more per month because of the higher money factor, but if your car had not been so heavily discounted, you may have paid more per month in just depreciation costs. 6. Be happy with this deal and don't look back. Enjoy the new Siri like system and the fancy tech in the car.
@drozj14 There is no "cooling off" period. You can't bring it back.
But, let's look at the deal.
FWD model? 36/10 lease?
You aren't paying that full amount of $1470 for the maintenance plan. It appears they were able to add $1020 of that amount to the MSRP, raising the residual by $612. That makes your net cost $858. I'd guess the cost of the plan was marked up, but being able to residualize some of it probably makes it worth having. (at $858)
Only $558.75 for tax in Texas? Did they have Texas tax credits? It appears so, with that amount. That is a $2000 savings.
$5500 off MSRP, plus another $3000 in certificates is a big discount. Offset somewhat by the acquisition fee being marked up by $300.
I agree with your assessment of the money factor. It appears that it is marked up to .00210. That adds just over $45/mo., or about $1625 total.
Overall, in TX, it looks like a pretty good deal (considering the normal TX tax amount). The dealer added some markups to take advantage of the extra incentive certificates they used on your deal, but they also discounted the vehicle below their cost, I think. Then, the tax credits were icing on the cake.
Comments
For example, the package I'm looking at has an MSRP of $37335, sales $34335. Like others, I'll have to order it.
MF .00139, RES 59% on a 36/12 and no money down.
Total tax 6% which I must pay up front, along with title, tag, and dealer fees.
By my calculations, the cost should be ~$3800 drive-off and $420/month.
Deal quoted is ~$3800 drive off and ~$455/month. I have not sat down with the dealer to go over the numbers just yet.
I suppose the dealer has to make some money, so that may account for the difference in monthly payments. Thoughts?
For example, the package I'm looking at has an MSRP of $37335, sales $34335. Like others, I'll have to order it.
MF .00139, RES 59% on a 36/12 and no money down.
Total tax 6% which I must pay up front, along with title, tag, and dealer fees.
By my calculations, the cost should be ~$3800 drive-off and
$420/month.
Deal quoted is ~$3800 drive off and ~$455/month. I have not sat down with the dealer to go over the numbers just yet.
I suppose the dealer has to make
First, you don't have to pay the taxes up front - you can choose to add them to the cap cost and make them part of the monthly payment.some money, so that may account for the difference in monthly payments. Thoughts?
Second, the only two variables in a lease are the MF and the net cap cost. The difference in payment could be as simple as the addition of the MB acquisition fee (base $795, often marked up to $1095).
Ask the dealer for a copy of the lease deal sheet, and we can break it down.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
For example, the package I'm looking at has an MSRP of $37335, sales $34335. Like others, I'll have to order it.
MF .00139, RES 59% on a 36/12 and no money down.
Total tax 6% which I must pay up front, along with title, tag, and dealer fees.
By my calculations, the cost should be ~$3800 drive-off and
$420/month.
Deal quoted is ~$3800 drive off and ~$455/month. I have not sat down with the dealer to go over the numbers just yet.
I suppose the dealer has to make
If you order the car today, let's say it takes 2-3 months to arrive. If the MF changes in June/July, the lease cost will change based on that. The only thing you can (and should) negotiate today is the selling price.some money, so that may account for the difference in monthly payments. Thoughts?
You should also negotiate the fact that you'll use the base MF (whatever it is) when the deal is made.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
Can I get Res and MF for A220 4matic 36/10 for 19006?
Are the rates national?
Thanks
Yes, numbers are national
Sometimes other folks start up a duplicate thread; we'll answer in either of them.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
.00139 and 59%
Use this link for price research:
https://www.edmunds.com/tmv.html
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
I did go to the dealer again yesterday, and they were more negotiable on the price. Discounted about 5%.
This is my question. When I checked their numbers, I came up with a higher lease pmt. Their payment is $629.53. I get $667.92.
This is the deal detail sheet.
The only change is that they show the Acq Fee at $1095 vs. $795. They made a note by hand that they will adjust that $300 off at delivery, so it should make their payment a bit less.
This is an ordered car which will be here in July, and I know the rates will change, but this was calculated as though we were taking delivery at April rates.
With .00134 MF and 60% residual, the calculated payment is correct.
The 2139.05 is Due at Signing.
If they want to lower the price by $300, all they have to do is take it off that amount.
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No lease incentives
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
.00139 and 59%
No lease incentives
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
Thank you!
No lease incentives
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
No lease incentives
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
Zip is 92804
Any lease incentives?
No lease incentives
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
What is the MF, residual and lease or loyalty credits (if any) for 2019 A220 AWD, 36/12k?
Zip 07024
Thanks in advance!
No lease incentives
No loyalty info
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No changes
No incentives
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
I have an offer from a dealership that I am considering..
This was their initial offer.
43195.00 MSRP 2019 A-220 AWD
Sales price: 41245.00
527.20 with taxes and fees due at signing of 3751.28
Upfront fee consists of:
527.20=first payment
1095=bankfee which includes gap insurance
499=doc fee
254.50=3 year registration
6.60=motor vehicle online processing fee
6.00=nj tire tax 4x1.50 each
taxes at 6.625 percent=1362.98
residual buyout at .59 percent=25485.05
money factor .00134
-------------------------------------------
I was able to cut down the sales price to 40,000 even, which would bring down the monthly payment to roughly 490.94..
Would this be a reasonable deal?
Thanks in advance,
Jun Lee
Acquisition fee is marked up from $795.
I agree with your math. Looks like a decent deal on a vehicle with just an adequate lease program.
Our recommendation is to add the bank fee, the doc fee and the taxes into the monthly payment. Your payment will be higher, but the out of pocket costs will come way down.
And, if the car is stolen or totaled, you would lose that up front outlay.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
I'm talking to a local dealer and they're refusing to go below 0.00189, telling me they won't make any profit if they go lower than that. The other local dealer doesn't want to give me the actual money factor and just wants to talk monthly payments, but I figured out that they're offering 0.00175 based on the price/payments. They also claim going any lower will put them in the poor house.
Is there any truth to their "need" to mark up the money factor or is this just them being a little greedy? Does the dealership truly not make any profit if they give you the car at the base money factor?
Thanks for your time! I'm learning a lot on these forums.
Dealer will say a lot of things to get you to sign the contract.
Now that you know the MF is marked up, tell them both the first to offer you a deal with the base MF gets your signature.
There is no way for anyone to know what constitutes a profitable deal for the dealer.
I do know that if you wait until the end of the month, they might be more hungry for your business.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
So the one dealer offering 0.00189 emailed me tonight to say they can’t go lower on the MF, but they’re willing to knock down the price of the car so that the monthly payments work out to be exactly the same as they would be if they gave me the base MF. Does that make any sense? I’m wondering what the angle is here.
But, continue to negotiate with both dealers for the right to earn your business.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
36/10
A220
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
Can I get the numbers for AWD A220 in 98021 Washington? Thanks!
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But, let's look at the deal.
FWD model?
36/10 lease?
You aren't paying that full amount of $1470 for the maintenance plan. It appears they were able to add $1020 of that amount to the MSRP, raising the residual by $612. That makes your net cost $858. I'd guess the cost of the plan was marked up, but being able to residualize some of it probably makes it worth having. (at $858)
Only $558.75 for tax in Texas? Did they have Texas tax credits? It appears so, with that amount. That is a $2000 savings.
$5500 off MSRP, plus another $3000 in certificates is a big discount. Offset somewhat by the acquisition fee being marked up by $300.
I agree with your assessment of the money factor. It appears that it is marked up to .00210.
That adds just over $45/mo., or about $1625 total.
Overall, in TX, it looks like a pretty good deal (considering the normal TX tax amount). The dealer added some markups to take advantage of the extra incentive certificates they used on your deal, but they also discounted the vehicle below their cost, I think. Then, the tax credits were icing on the cake.
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Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
1. Let me start with the good, You actually seem to have a pretty good deal in hand overall. You could have saved a few pennies on top, but do you want to spend 40 hours and save another 5 bucks a month? Not worth it in my opinion.
2. Dealers lie when they tell you their lease calculators are audited and it all has to be above the table. Nope. Have you seen the final contract you sign? It has none of this financial wizardry on the contract. Just some peripheral numbers. Those lease contracts insulate the dealers and the banks well.
3. I think MBFS charges between 495 and 1095 lease termination/acquisition fees based on a number of factors, including what discounts you are bringing to the table, your credit score, etc. I don't know about other banks
4. As Kyfdx pointed out, the biggest chunk of excess cash you paid is in the marked up MF, but they had to make up money because for a new series (A), your net cap cost is pretty low and thereby, your overall deal is pretty good. I know cars are sitting on lots a lot longer last 2-3 months, but I thought A supply side was still pretty tight.
5. I think you paid $32.4 more per month because of the higher money factor, but if your car had not been so heavily discounted, you may have paid more per month in just depreciation costs.
6. Be happy with this deal and don't look back. Enjoy the new Siri like system and the fancy tech in the car.