Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Can't help on the other noise.
I have noticed this noise since we picked up our new 300M 7 months ago...it seemed to quit when I turned the fan control off on off (but may be in my head, it's real quiet). Since I never mentioned it to the dealer, I didn't "count" it as even thinking it was something wrong under warranty and now it appears to just be normal. No warranty problems after 7000 miles either, let's hope that keeps up (my Jeep Gr Cherokee did not either but then a rash of bugs from 20-35,000 miles so we bought the 70k extended warranty only to use it once with 58k on that vehicle).
Any thoughts?
I'm also having an annoying squeak from the sunroof. I'm positive that it is the seal drying out. Anyone had to have the seal changed?
Will it start with a boost? If not, it may need mechanical attention --could be the starter motor.
Good luck!
Anthem, AZ
I think a new replacement battery should have started your car in the first place. However, in my experience, a weak battery will gain power if the car is left running and the alternator is working. A bad alternator will drain the battery and the car will stop running.
I would guess it to be a bad alternator (or whatever they call them these days), but I would have thought you would have gotten a dash light if it wasn't charging properly.
Do you recall any dash lights during the process?
I suggest having the fuel delivery system checked (filter, injectors), check the air filter, and check the throttle position sensor.
Are you getting any rough vibration before it stalls? If so, I'd also recommend having the transmission checked. Get up to normal speed, put it in Autostick mode, then come to a complete stop to see if it automatically shifts all the way down to first gear.
Have not had a relapse and KMS at 18000. This is not a common problem as suggested by dealer. I know a number of 300M Special owners here in Canada and they have not had this problem. Hope this helps
Here's the problem; this has shown up mainly since the weather has gotten colder. When cold starting and attempting to back out of a parking space, when the car is placed in reverse the accelerator pedal cannot be depressed. If its put back in Park and the pedal => forced <= down, it will free up and you can return to reverse and drive/back normally. This has happened a few times now. I've searched TSBs and don't find anything similar. Anyone else experience this or know what the problem might be. It will go to the dealer, but would like to be informed.
Nothing complicated, just have to follow the troubleshooting tips.
PDC fuse is under the hood on the left side in the PDC (which has a rectangular top). It is a 40 amp fuse.
Manuals help!!!!! Good Luck.
I have the blown one removed now. It was very easy to do with the help from the good folks on this ... to pry up the left side of the most forward dash cover under the windshield to get access to the speaker. I used a phillips driver in a 1/4 inch ratchet to get the screws out so I wouldn't have ... previous posts on here and get a good source and recommendation for replacements. If anyone has recent speaker recommendations, they would be appreciated!
(Mine speakers are still fine in my almost 1 yr old 2004 M, but I recalled covering it up after reading those posts last summer and it does make a difference in sound coverage when it goes out, must but the large window glass or something ... I had a late 90s Caravan and don't recall a center speaker but it may have been there and I just never knew what it was).
Dave in SE MN
1. Short in motor wiring
2. Bad wiper on/off relay
3. wiper switch
4. defective BCM
according to service manual
I took it out, disconnected the power, reconnected the power, and it seemed to work fine. Turned the power off and back on and it was the same symptoms. I thought maybe the car needed a reboot, so I disconnected the negative battery cable for about 30 minutes. I reconnected the cable tried it and, again, it seemed to work fine. I turned the power off and back on and, you guessed it, exact same symptoms. I'm pretty bummed out right now. I hate the thought of spending another $1500 for another RB1! I've got the other radio, but I'm actually scared to test it for fear that it might turn out that I DO need to buy another RB1!
Thanks, for any input you have. DH
I guess I'm paying the price of getting a refurbished unit at a reduced price. I bought it from Lee Auto over the internet. They didn't disclose that it was a refurbished unit, but it was $200 less than the Mopar MSRP. Had to be a reason, but I was so excited at the price, I didn't care.(Now it looks like I'm going to end up paying a total of $2990 [$1395 for this one + $1595 for a new one] when I should've just spent the $1595 to begin with!!) When I first installed it, the first few days when it booted up, it would display the Jeep logo followed briefly by the Chrysler logo. After a few days, it began to display the Chrysler logo exclusively.
Is there a way to reset the RB1, other than disconnecting the power? How long should the power be disconnected?
I'm totally bummed. That dang RB1 has become invaluable to us! Not to mention all the addresses and some of our favorite destinations saved in it...
Oh, woe is me! Sure hope one of you guys has some good ideas!
What is the Ebay username you bought it from, a private part or business? Seems you should have some recourse if it is a business, especially since it was misrepresented as new.
Brand new RB1 units can be bought from authorized dealers for around $1300.00. I have seen units on Ebay go for around $650-$800, even new ones from reliable sellers for under $900.00.
If you do not have any recourse from the seller then sounds like the unit is going to have to go into the shop, I have an address I can dig up for the service center for the RB1 radios if you need it.
I bought it from Lee Auto out of NJ over the 'net. I'd really like to be able to have it fixed, but I just don't see it happening. Electronics rarely come out in "like new" condition when they go in. Just afraid of spending a few hundred dollars for a $20 dollar (or less) fix just for it to die again in six months when I could just ante up and buy a new one again.
I'll gladly take the names of some reputable seller that will sell me a NEW one at $1300 or less.