$200 under invoice, but the invoice has the $500 ad. fee listed so it's $500 over the edmunds.com invoice figures. The doc. fee is supposedly fixed at $345.
I'm in sales also. If I hit my customers with an "advertising" charge, they would laugh me out of their office and find somebody else to deal with!!!
From Hyundai's description of its two extended warranty plans:
2. TOTAL PROTECTION - OVER 14,000 PARTS COVERED ACROSS THE HYUNDAI PRODUCT LINE - Extends the comprehensive component coverage of your new vehicle warranty; protects you from the cost of unexpected repairs for up to ten (10) years/100,000 miles.
7. TRANSFERABLE - To enhance the resale value of your Hyundai, you (the original purchaser) can transfer the Hyundai Protection Plan to one subsequent purchaser.
You keep on talking about Invoice. I only received my LX for $50 below invoice. However I did receive all rebates, and an overvalued trade of $13,800 on a car that was only $11,800 New.
Advertising charges are 100% legit & real (although inflated like all fees), and most always are built into the sales contracts, right there with the dealer fees. The true skill is not to pay any additional costs. By the way, if you didn't advertise at your office, no one would buy whatever it is you sell?.
I am looking for a 2006 Sonata GLS V6 with sunroof in chicago land area, now the offer i got is 18300 (OTD), is that a good price, or anyone can share better deals? thanks.
That sounds good but I know they are coming to the end of the model year sometime soon so they will want to bargain. In April I bought out the door for $19,300. Better than talking about out the door, how about price of the car minus rebate? Everyone pays differnt tax, title, tags, fees... so it gets confusing when someone from one state compares to someone from a different state. For example, I pay 6% tax in DC while in Virginia they pay 3%. That's a difference of over $500 right there! (Why do I live in DC???)
I got my GLS-V6 w/ sunroof for $17,661 ($19,661 - $2,000 rebate)in the DC area. Since the rebate is $2,500 now, are you getting better than $19,661 - $2,500 = $17,161. If you can get it for a few hundred less than that then I think you've got a great deal.
I should have waited for May for the $2,500 rebate but for some reason I thought that the $2,000 April rebate would be over and then there would be no rebate. Of course, they don't announce the next month's promotions until the beginning of that month. But, it seems that at the end of the model year that they would either continue with the $2,500 rebate or even make it $3,000. I should stop watching this board because I'll feel bad if I could have saved another $1,000 by waiting six more weeks! Anyway, I shopped around by calling the internet managers at nearby dealers and dealing over the phone. All of them said, if I can give you that price, will you come down today to pick it up? So, you should be ready to actually purchase on the day that you call. I don't know what happens if you try to put it off. I just went down there that day. Good luck.
I am looking for a 2006 Sonata GLS V6 with sunroof in chicago land area, now the offer i got is 18300 (OTD), is that a good price, or anyone can share better deals? thanks.
It's possible you can get it for $400-$500 less, but that's a great deal the way it stands. Sometimes the stress and friction between you and the dealer are not worth a few hundred bucks. It's up to you.
Thanks, Backy. I guess my dealer told me wrong about the Hyundai backed warranty. (Why does it seem that consumers know more about the cars and plans than the dealerships?)
Anyway, everyone should read the details for him/herself before handing over your money since what's in writing counts more than what you are told.
i am also looking for gls v6 in the chicago area (actually northwest of chicago). $18600.00 out the door sounds like a good price. can you share the name of the dealership where you got this price? i am having a difficult time getting a bottom line price from three dealers. they all want the last shot.
Hey I thought you were a strictly Hyundai guy?. So no new Sonata :confuse:
"My next new car purchase will be in the next 2.5-3 years or so (when I turn my Elantra over to my other son) and will be a long-term car that I drive for several years and then turn over to my daughter for school. It will probably be a B-class car like the Fit, Accent, or Versa but who knows what will be available then"??
No, I am not strictly a Hyundai guy. Right now I own two Hyundais and two Mazdas--until tomorrow when I sell my beloved '01 Elantra to my lucky sister. The car that meets my needs at the lowest price wins (my money). My next car will probably be a small one (notice the Accent is high on my list), but I think the Sonata would be a good car for my wife when we get rid of our last minivan in 4-5 years.
I can't decide which model to purchase... I assume gas prices will be going up so in that case the 4cyl sounds good. But the V6 prices are very close to being within the 4cyl price range, thus making it very tempting to purchase as well. Which would you purchase and why.... I will be buying the 4cyl or V6 sonata sometime next month. Thanks for your input. : )
I am free to make all decisions. However I think getting back in a large Car was a great decision, as the feeling of the Sonata is Solid!. You might even look at that new Hyundai Mini Van, it is really sharp!
As far as getting the 4 or 6 cyl Sonata. No regrets on the 6 at all. A Ton more power than my Turbo Subaru Forester. Sure I can't bolt out of an intersection and do the 5.8 Zero to 60 in the Sonata, but that's partly because the Sonata will just sit there and smoke the tires :shades:
Well, I am free to make all car decisions in my household also--my wife doesn't want anything to do with car buying. I could have bought a new car, even a new Sonata, for myself. Instead I decided to wait and get her a minivan as a surprise because she was missing it. The upside is that I have the option of getting a car like the all-new Elantra or even the refreshed '09 Sonata when it is time for my new car. And my wife is much happier.
jib4, could you email me of board, like to get more info from you on your purchase. intended to go to brad benson and ask for a same deal on the LX. right now there is a $2500 rebate on all v6 model. thanks.
I guess I am in the same boat as you are but for a different reason. I am trying to decide between Sonata GLS 4cyl or LX (both with sunroof) in Washington, DC area.
In V6, gas will cost about 10% extra. That is about $10-15 extra per month for me. $1,500 extra rebate on V6, makes GLS I4 and GLS V6 very comparable price wise. But what I hear that LX is noisier than I4 on rough roads and some other problems (including rear suspension, seating position) specific to V6. Though handling of LX is better and engine should last longer.
Hyundai is also promoting V6 harder because it is build in USA. Any suggestion about dealership in DC area and price paid.
Why is it between the GLS I4 and the LX? If you are happy with the equipment level of the GLS I4, why not go for the GLS V6? You should save some bucks compared to the LX. You can even get the 17" tires on the GLS V6 if you like the way they handle.
All the Sonatas sold in the U.S. are made in the U.S. now. That has been the case since last fall. Before then, the I4s were shipped from Korea.
Hi, I just bought my GLS V6 with sunroof for $17,700. OTD with N.J. Tax, Tittle Tags, Extended Warranty, $ 20,004.00. So if you are out the door for $18300 on a $22,895 car I'd say you got a great deal. Good Luck, you'll love it. Walt
Hey, Just today bought a 2006 Sonata GLS V6(no additional options) for $17,750 including TTL in Jackson, TN. Decent deal considering we have a 9.25% sales tax. Picking it up on Monday but have test driven several times and it seems to me like the best car for the money.
Ho, I just don't know?. A local top Dealer has 2006 Base V6 Sonatas for $14,895 in Todays paper, all rebates apply, not including Dealer fees plus TT&L. With this price you can't afford not to get the V6
Anyone here buy a Sonata from Arizona recently? I'm interested in the GL (for it's manual transmission) or the V6 GLS. I understand that the I4s are hard to come by. The rebates look great on the V6s. I only hesitate because i'm not sure what type of changes are in store for the 2007 Sonata. Any recommendations for the best dealers in the Phoenix area? Thanks
This Forum is used by people all across the World, isn't it Matt?. I find true "Out the Door" (OTD) pricing is the single, most accurate way of posting prices here. Your tax example is somewhat extreme & silly :P
I live in the Seattle area, I got a GLS V-6 for $16000 even plus tax and lic.$21495 less $2495 dealer discount,less $2500 rebate, less $500 owner loyalty.Bought 5/6/06 in Auburn,Wa.
I would estimate that 99% of the people posting comments in the Prices Paid forum are from the United States.
Of the 1000's of comments I've read, maybe 5 have come from Canada, with none from any other country. How many posts have you read that give OTD pricing in Dinars, Euros, or Pesos? My guess is none.
Therefore, your comment about the forum being used "by people all across the world" is extreme, silly, and irrelevent.
How could you possibly say that OTD price is the most accurate pricing method? My example clearly shows that OTD pricing can be EXTREMELY different depending on which part of the country you are in.
The highest combined city/state sales tax rate is 9.4%. The lowest is 0.0%. That is a difference of $1880 on a $20,000 car. OTD doesn't seem very accurate to me.
I hope you're job doesn't involve accuracy, statistics & numbers!
I agree matt, OTD prices are not real helpful when comparing a deal. I prefer to know what someone got the car for before discounting for rebates etc and what the MSRP was on that deal, everyone will qualify for different rebates, currently everyone 2500(v6), 500(military) and 500 loyalty and I think a 400 college. Kind of like post #2082, Stated MSRP of 21495-dealer discount of 2495, tells me what I want to know, he got the car for 19K then I can take the rebates off that apply to me, and like you said fees and taxes different everywhere.
Anybody buying the GLS 4 cylinder version these days? What are these going for? (I'm in the middle of putting together some offers for an '06 GLS 4 cyl and would appreciate any tips or cost data!)
I think its good if you are gonna list everything, but most wont do that, so to me just knowing the MSRP of car you bought and the price you haggled to get would be fine with me. I cant figure how you figure you were 18700 OTD though. If Im reading it right you agreed to 22,793.11 with MSRP of 24,895= dealer discount of 2101.89,so 6.50+599.50+99+629.89+50+150+2-92=1444.89, then you had 2000 rebate So 22,793.11-2000=20793.11 + 1444.89=22,238
I bought my GLS 4 cyl last November for about 15400 after $1500 in rebates. Thats the price before all other taxes and fees. I agree that is the way to list prices here. It gives a real world basis to make your deal since every state and country vary so much on fees and taxes. Make offers threw the internet to several dealer after you've decided what a far price is. That method works very well and is low key, no pressure. Good luck
I posted this before but my deal only involved two factors:
1)Traded in an 05 Elantra for $9500 2)Issued a Cashiers Check for $9300 with a $100 refund
The whole idea of sharing prices here is as a community. Not exactly what price you will find in your community.
Yes it's true a few States have low or no Sales Tax. And 6 States have no Income tax. But it all evens out, really!. For example I will save about $8000 on State Income tax this Year living in Florida. And if I lived in a no sales tax State, I would have saved Matt's $1800 figure on my Sonata, yet paid the $8000 Income tax.
It helps to separate out the rebates as you and many other posters have done, so then we know the negotiated price (after discounting by the dealer), the rebates, and any add-ons like taxes, license, doc fees, extended warranty etc.
On the other post you said trade was 13000 but anyway I dont like the OTD idea, everybody please go with the negotiated price before you take any rebates and include MSRP of the vehicle. Im in the market for a GLS V6 with MSRP of 21495 or 22395, so interested in seeing what deals people got, the paper here is listing one for 18995 on a MSRP of 21495(includes freight) before rebates of course. So thats dealer discount of about 2500. Seems like that would be my baseline and anything lower would be good deal.
It's all figures & smoke screens. Our local paper has the Sonata GLS V6 for $15K, add $1K in dealer fees, and $1500 for T, T, & L. Tax & registration should be the least of your concerns, as most of us pay about the same amount. Yes I said I was given $13K for my trade, actually $13.8K if you saw my first & second purchase order on a loaded GLS. I have 3 purchase orders as I moved into a loaded LX, yet the bottom line figure on all 3 orders were the exact final price. How do they do it?. By changing the figures around. How do some States charge less tax, by re distributing the tax burden.
Is state sales tax computed based on net price after rebate or before rebate ?? Also how is rebate amount written on sales contract, before or after the taxable amount of purchase?? The reason i asked is i plan to purchase my sonata from my neighbor state and i will be responsible on the sales tax after pick up.........I just want to be sure dealer have the contract drawn up correctly.
Good question!. I bet it might vary from State to State, and we know how it's done at the retail store, where you do pay tax on the amount of the rebate. Yet if you review my post above which came directly from the purchase order, my rebates were added as a credit after the taxable amount charged on the purchase price!
IMO, i believed that sales tax should be based on net amount a consumer is paying. In most cases, that is the agreed upon sale price subtract the rebate and this will be the taxable amount (actual amount paid by consumer) for sales tax. Look at the Hyundai USA websit, i noticed that if you go through the build your own process for the sonata. It will subtract the rebate to come to a net MSRP after all the opiton. Let say there is no dealer discount isn't this the amount a cosumer is responsible and sales should be paid based on this NET amount?? What are some of your thoughts on this..........
Are you confused? You initially said that OTD pricing was the best, most accurate method. Yet you show every cost detail in your post, not just OTD price. So it appears that you actually agree with my opinion.
Secondly, how do you come up with $18,700 OTD price?!?!?! Your own post is a perfect example of how misleading and inaccurate OTD is. Here is what I come up with using your numbers:
Total including Accessories $22,793.11 Florida Battery fee $6.50 Dealer Fees $599.50 Documentation $99.00 Sales Tax 7% $629.89 Dade County Surtax $50.00 Title & Registration $150.00 Motor Vehicle Warranty Enforcement $2.00 Total Costs $24,330.00
Title Refund $92.00 Loyalty rebate $1,000.00 LX Rebate $1,000.00 Total Credits $2,092.00
"OTD" Price $22,238.00
Less Trade $13,000.00
Paid To Dealer $9,238.00
The difference between your posted OTD and the OTD calculation shown above is $3538!! This is why OTD pricing should never be used.
In a forum such as this, OTD pricing is useless in determining "Prices Paid" for specific vehicles.
You need to find a new argument for OTD pricing! I love your comment, "But it all evens out, really!"
This forum is about the PRICES PAID for specific automobiles. It is a very simple concept. Give us the PRICE you PAID for the VEHICLE, nothing more, nothing less.
I don't care about your state sales tax, or if you save $8000 in income tax, or that cost of living is higher/lower in your state, ect. Leave all of those factors out.
Give me the negotioated price of the car w/ accessories + any dealer add-ons/fees. Nothing else matters. The fact that you had to pay a battery fee, county surtax, ect is meaningless to the 99% of people in this forum that don't live in your exact locality.
This forum is used by people across the country. Because of this, OTD prices are irrelevant and useless.
I do not agree with your opinion. I agree with our hosts opinion. In any event, as I mentioned before, if the only instrument of payment was the dealer trade in of $9500, and a Check for $9200 which equals $18.7, and then I deduct the sales tax of $681, the miscellaneous State fees, and also take $500 off my trade, as the Elantra really wasn't worth $9.5, the actual OTD price on my LX was under $17,500.
Your math is somewhat flawed, as was my entire deal. I just didn't want to post a $17.5K price on a loaded LX with Package 5, as that would have been too hard to comprehend. I still can't believe what I wound up with!. Now we should put this issue to rest, as our mod is getting mad :mad:
Spent an hour negotiating yesterday on a Loaded '06 LX Sonata. MSRP was $24,945. Of course there is the current $2500 rebate and I am eligable for the $500 owner loyalty as well. After several tennis lobs back and forth the last and final offer was $19,500 plus Tax and tag transfer. OTD(not to piss anyone off) was $20,700(rounded off).
Can anyone report a better deal? I didnt buy since I wanted to make sure that was there last and final offer so I had to see if they would let me leave the dealership which they did.
Comments
I'm in sales also. If I hit my customers with an "advertising" charge, they would laugh me out of their office and find somebody else to deal with!!!
Not since 2001!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don't know about before that.
2. TOTAL PROTECTION - OVER 14,000 PARTS COVERED ACROSS THE HYUNDAI PRODUCT LINE - Extends the comprehensive component coverage of your new vehicle warranty; protects you from the cost of unexpected repairs for up to ten (10) years/100,000 miles.
7. TRANSFERABLE - To enhance the resale value of your Hyundai, you (the original purchaser) can transfer the Hyundai Protection Plan to one subsequent purchaser.
http://www.hyundaiusa.com/global/warranty/warranty.aspx
Advertising charges are 100% legit & real (although inflated like all fees), and most always are built into the sales contracts, right there with the dealer fees. The true skill is not to pay any additional costs. By the way, if you didn't advertise at your office, no one would buy whatever it is you sell?.
I got my GLS-V6 w/ sunroof for $17,661 ($19,661 - $2,000 rebate)in the DC area. Since the rebate is $2,500 now, are you getting better than $19,661 - $2,500 = $17,161. If you can get it for a few hundred less than that then I think you've got a great deal.
I should have waited for May for the $2,500 rebate but for some reason I thought that the $2,000 April rebate would be over and then there would be no rebate. Of course, they don't announce the next month's promotions until the beginning of that month. But, it seems that at the end of the model year that they would either continue with the $2,500 rebate or even make it $3,000. I should stop watching this board because I'll feel bad if I could have saved another $1,000 by waiting six more weeks! Anyway, I shopped around by calling the internet managers at nearby dealers and dealing over the phone. All of them said, if I can give you that price, will you come down today to pick it up? So, you should be ready to actually purchase on the day that you call. I don't know what happens if you try to put it off. I just went down there that day. Good luck.
It's possible you can get it for $400-$500 less, but that's a great deal the way it stands. Sometimes the stress and friction between you and the dealer are not worth a few hundred bucks. It's up to you.
Anyway, everyone should read the details for him/herself before handing over your money since what's in writing counts more than what you are told.
Hey I thought you were a strictly Hyundai guy?. So no new Sonata :confuse:
"My next new car purchase will be in the next 2.5-3 years or so (when I turn my Elantra over to my other son) and will be a long-term car that I drive for several years and then turn over to my daughter for school. It will probably be a B-class car like the Fit, Accent, or Versa but who knows what will be available then"??
I can't decide which model to purchase... I assume gas prices will be going up so in that case the 4cyl sounds good. But the V6 prices are very close to being within the 4cyl price range, thus making it very tempting to purchase as well. Which would you purchase and why.... I will be buying the 4cyl or V6 sonata sometime next month. Thanks for your input. : )
As far as getting the 4 or 6 cyl Sonata. No regrets on the 6 at all. A Ton more power than my Turbo Subaru Forester. Sure I can't bolt out of an intersection and do the 5.8 Zero to 60 in the Sonata, but that's partly because the Sonata will just sit there and smoke the tires :shades:
In V6, gas will cost about 10% extra. That is about $10-15 extra per month for me. $1,500 extra rebate on V6, makes GLS I4 and GLS V6 very comparable price wise. But what I hear that LX is noisier than I4 on rough roads and some other problems (including rear suspension, seating position) specific to V6. Though handling of LX is better and engine should last longer.
Hyundai is also promoting V6 harder because it is build in USA. Any suggestion about dealership in DC area and price paid.
All the Sonatas sold in the U.S. are made in the U.S. now. That has been the case since last fall. Before then, the I4s were shipped from Korea.
I just bought my GLS V6 with sunroof for $17,700. OTD with N.J. Tax, Tittle Tags, Extended Warranty, $ 20,004.00. So if you are out the door for $18300 on a $22,895 car I'd say you got a great deal. Good Luck, you'll love it.
Walt
Just today bought a 2006 Sonata GLS V6(no additional options) for $17,750 including TTL in Jackson, TN. Decent deal considering we have a 9.25% sales tax. Picking it up on Monday but have test driven several times and it seems to me like the best car for the money.
I just don't know?. A local top Dealer has 2006 Base V6 Sonatas for $14,895 in Todays paper, all rebates apply, not including Dealer fees plus TT&L. With this price you can't afford not to get the V6
Good luck!
The costs of sales tax, registration fees, tags, ect. vary wildy depending on where you live. Therefore, OTD pricing is NOT HELPFUL.
People, just post the costs of the car, options/accessories, and any fees the dealer charged!
Example of a $20,000 car...
Location 1 - Sales tax (9.5%), tags/title ($200)
Location 2 - Sales tax (4.0%), tags/title ($40)
In this example, the OTD price of the exact same vehicle would be nearly $1300 higher in Location 1.
I would estimate that 99% of the people posting comments in the Prices Paid forum are from the United States.
Of the 1000's of comments I've read, maybe 5 have come from Canada, with none from any other country. How many posts have you read that give OTD pricing in Dinars, Euros, or Pesos? My guess is none.
Therefore, your comment about the forum being used "by people all across the world" is extreme, silly, and irrelevent.
How could you possibly say that OTD price is the most accurate pricing method? My example clearly shows that OTD pricing can be EXTREMELY different depending on which part of the country you are in.
You think my example is silly...check out the links below.
http://thestc.com/STRates.stm
http://www.taxadmin.org/FTA/rate/sales.html
The highest combined city/state sales tax rate is 9.4%. The lowest is 0.0%. That is a difference of $1880 on a $20,000 car. OTD doesn't seem very accurate to me.
I hope you're job doesn't involve accuracy, statistics & numbers!
Here's how I posted my deal a couple months back. What do you think of the format, and more important, the figures?.
LX with all available options
*MSRP $24,895*
Total including Accessories $22,793.11
Less Trade $13,000
Cash Difference $9793.11
Florida Battery fee $6.50
Dealer Fees $599.50
Documentation $99.00
Amount Taxable $10,498.11
Sales Tax 7% $629.89
Dade County Surtax $50.00
Title & Registration $150.00 (received $92 refund!)
Motor Vehicle Warranty Enforcement $2.00
Cash Balance due $11330.00
Loyalty rebate $1000
LX Rebate $1000
Finance Rebate $0
Total due $9330.00
_________________________
$18,700 OTD
Thank you!
$22,238 OTD?
How did u come up with 18700?
1)Traded in an 05 Elantra for $9500
2)Issued a Cashiers Check for $9300 with a $100 refund
The whole idea of sharing prices here is as a community. Not exactly what price you will find in your community.
Yes it's true a few States have low or no Sales Tax. And 6 States have no Income tax. But it all evens out, really!. For example I will save about $8000 on State Income tax this Year living in Florida. And if I lived in a no sales tax State, I would have saved Matt's $1800 figure on my Sonata, yet paid the $8000 Income tax.
Besides... It doesn't matter what any of us thinks about it... You pay according to the rules and laws in your own state...
thanks,
kyfdx
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Are you confused? You initially said that OTD pricing was the best, most accurate method. Yet you show every cost detail in your post, not just OTD price. So it appears that you actually agree with my opinion.
Secondly, how do you come up with $18,700 OTD price?!?!?! Your own post is a perfect example of how misleading and inaccurate OTD is. Here is what I come up with using your numbers:
Total including Accessories $22,793.11
Florida Battery fee $6.50
Dealer Fees $599.50
Documentation $99.00
Sales Tax 7% $629.89
Dade County Surtax $50.00
Title & Registration $150.00
Motor Vehicle Warranty Enforcement $2.00
Total Costs $24,330.00
Title Refund $92.00
Loyalty rebate $1,000.00
LX Rebate $1,000.00
Total Credits $2,092.00
"OTD" Price $22,238.00
Less Trade $13,000.00
Paid To Dealer $9,238.00
The difference between your posted OTD and the OTD calculation shown above is $3538!! This is why OTD pricing should never be used.
In a forum such as this, OTD pricing is useless in determining "Prices Paid" for specific vehicles.
You need to find a new argument for OTD pricing! I love your comment, "But it all evens out, really!"
This forum is about the PRICES PAID for specific automobiles. It is a very simple concept. Give us the PRICE you PAID for the VEHICLE, nothing more, nothing less.
I don't care about your state sales tax, or if you save $8000 in income tax, or that cost of living is higher/lower in your state, ect. Leave all of those factors out.
Give me the negotioated price of the car w/ accessories + any dealer add-ons/fees. Nothing else matters. The fact that you had to pay a battery fee, county surtax, ect is meaningless to the 99% of people in this forum that don't live in your exact locality.
This forum is used by people across the country. Because of this, OTD prices are irrelevant and useless.
Your math is somewhat flawed, as was my entire deal. I just didn't want to post a $17.5K price on a loaded LX with Package 5, as that would have been too hard to comprehend. I still can't believe what I wound up with!. Now we should put this issue to rest, as our mod is getting mad :mad:
Can anyone report a better deal? I didnt buy since I wanted to make sure that was there last and final offer so I had to see if they would let me leave the dealership which they did.
Craig