Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
mechanic has run all and poses no mechanical problem and dealership would love to get you in and charge big $
This has been a problem for the last year and I just put up with it.
Thanks.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_PocketScan-Pl- us-Code-Scanner-Actron_9090012-P_N3389_T|GRP2018____
You can probably find one even cheaper on ebay.Just has to be ODBII.Not ODBI.
- i bought car used with 58K Km on it. At first oil change (64k Km) i was told no oil. Did oil consumption test and sucked back about 1 to 1.5 liters per 1000 km. Was told normal by NISSAN.
-Also had light rattle around 1500 to 2000 rpm but was told most likely bad gas and to use premium (i used lower cost gas up to this point, 85k km)
-At 96,000 km, re-did oil consumption test (same infiniti dealer) with same results as previously mentioned. This time not normal (documentation was different as well). This was in early 2007. NISSAN authorized a change of the short block under warranty.
-Documents showed a $5,000+ cost for engine job.
-Car worked good after this, but knocking still there. I never did more as dealer not to concerned.
-January 2009 lost coolant due to broken pipe. some overheating and only time check engine light came on. Seemed to have fixed problem early enough and engine seemed OK.
-Late 2009, sound seemed worse and wider range of RPM for rattle noise (diesel like).
-Stopped at local mechanic, confirmed noise, seemed to come from rear heads (very audible inside of garage with hood up. also noise from timing chain area. Made appointment for monday inspect, until checking oil. Non on the stick. Left car.
-Monday morning found coolant in 2 cylinders. Base estimate without totally dismantling engine at least $3000 with many unknowns. Decided used motor for $1,200 + $1,000 for labor + 5 to 600 extra.
-I have 1 year guarantee, but to get it they had to find why problem occurred. They found the catalytic converter clogged (pressure differential to large across converter) upon opening up completely blocked and loose.
-Spoke to mechanic and he said that " the O2 sensors should pick up these problems and if they start to go off, this needs to be checked otherwise crap is blown back into the cylinders causing these problems. This will cause temperature differential across the comnverter of as much as 500 degrees. Causing lots of problems, overheating of rear heads, increased oil consumption, coolant in heads etc.......
- Moral of the story is, CHECK OUT THE catalytic converter (MY COST FOR NEW PART WAS $265). Seemed nissan had a lot of issues with these causing engine damage (replaced a lot of 4 cylinder motors on warranty because of this).
Good luck.
Thanks for your help,
Jericho
WOW! That's a real horror story...I'll be selling mine for parts before I spend that type of money for repairs.
Best of luck with it.
Sherman
I have 166,000+ and figure it will go another 100,000 if properly maintained.
Walter 11-24-09
Nice to hear that the mount worked out. Curious if you've noticed any problems with the others. If you're at a stop and punch the gas quickly and let off, do you feel/hear a single "clunk." If you do this with the hood open, you should see the engine lurch/rotate toward you. Mine is rotating so much that it is bottoming out on the rear mount and making a clunking sound. It will even happen under hard acceleration when changing into second gear. That's the next project to replace the front and rear mounts. Not nearly as nice as the right!
Not sure if mine is doing that or not.Its my wifes car and I rarely drive it.I will say after I replaced the side mount I drove it for about a week and ran it pretty hard and I didnt notice any other issues.I will try punching it at a stop light the next time I drive it and let ya know.Keep me updated on yours cause like you said that rear mount does not look like it will be fun to change.The front one looks fairly simple.I can't even find the left side mount.I hope that sucker never goes.
I bought the r/s mount online at carpartswholesale.com.Let me know if you find a better supplier.I think I payed @ $89.00 shipped for the r/s.The front and the rear have the dielectric fluid in them and are fairly pricey if I remember right.Good luck.
Any insights appreciated.
As we all are aware, the I35 has a lousy turning radius by design, but there is plenty of clearance with the 225/55R17, even with snow chains on the tires.
I'd stick with these tires.
Inifiniti still needs to do a better job of insulating the car for road noise.
I hope that they had addressed this issue in my target replacement car, the M37!
Anyone had this problem? Will replacing the bulb solve my problem?
Thnx.
If you take care of it now and down the road I don't see why you can't get to where I'm at on mileage. The dealer's are very costly to deal with if you can't fix something yourself. I haven't had any major problems yet but I'll drive it till she won't drive anymore
Good Car
do these cars have certain problems that crop up as they age? Is now the time to sell or might this continue to be a reliable car? Thank you.
(60mile oneway to work 5 days a week) There will be cost that are unforseeable just like any other car or truck. I run seafoam through mine every 6000 miles which doesn't take long for me to reach it helps!
I'm pretty sure ours has at least another 75k of life in it; I'm hoping we don't get new car fever before then!
It is interesting that it goes away on its own, but after 1 year comes back, leaks for few days and then goes away again. I believe that the STOP LEAK additives in the oil just seal it every time.
I wouldn't buy a new car at least for 2-3 years from now. The thing is that you will not get anything better than the I35 after you spend $25K on a new car.
In fact my new car will be either a fun to drive Hybrig, or an Electric car. I just want to wait for them to develop the technologies for electric cars.
Im starting to get the knocking noise that I have been reading about. I thought it may be time for a valve adjustment but was told the valves are not adjustable. So excludiing running
premium gas @ a war pension price what other suggestions are there. Could this noise I'm hearing be a timing chain or a cam shaft getting loose or worn out The car has been pampered
since I bought it which was used but only had 41,000 mi on it
Just buy the best gas you can for starters, like Shell or some other name brand, and see how it affects the noise. If it diminishes or goes away, you are on the right track. If it doesn't, you'd best see a mechanic to determine if it is really severe detonation requiring engine adjustments, or if it's some other noise not related.
In any event, don't postpone acting on this. Severe detonation will punch a hole right through the tops of your pistons.
The noise you are hearing are the internal parts of your engine rattling around---literally.
Your suggestion about a knock sensor is definitely worth looking at and thanks for mentioning it.
Can you tell me where the location or locations would be and is it something I can change myself
Anyway the knock sensor is supposed to correct for pinging--it's supposed to "hear it" and retard the engine timing. The question then becomes--is the knock sensor working or not, and if it IS, why isn't the engine responding to the signal?
DESRIPTION: The knock sensor is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from the cylinder block is sensed as vibrational pressure. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the ECM.
So in theory we could also have an electrical connector issue, or an ECM issue.
Unfortunately I cannot find any description of how to diagnose and test for a bad knock sensor. I would presume a good repair shop with a CONSULT-II scanning device knows how to do this.
They used to say "you don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure THAT out"--but you know, sometimes I wonder :sick:
Knock sensor is bolted to the center of the engine, underneath intake manifold body. As soon as removing the intake manifold upper and lover parts, you will see the knock sensor sitting right on the engine. You will need a new set of manifold gasket though. It might be a good idea to change valve cover gaskets and spark plugs when you have full access to these locations. The whole tedious job requires patience, try not to over tighten the bolts on this engine block. Hope you will have another 100k miles on your car after this job.