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Comments
Guy
If you have sparks the crank sensor is probably good. I would check for fuel pressure at the rail, and also the air intake valve or (sensor) it could be stock open or close, good luck.
Guy
Could someone tell me if that is the water light? Thanks Esty
Is this hard to replace as I have purchased it? Esty
Anyway, I don't have any maintenance issues to speak of. I just wanted to chime in and offer the strongest possible recommendation for this car.
Thank you if anyone out there can shed light on this!
Reply if there is any other problems
At the night of the day I got the car back, I turned the key and the engine didn't catch on again. I was like "holy crap, not again...". I had to turn the key like 20 times to get the engine started...Since I heard the starter working...I am thinking the fuel pump failed again...I called my mechanic and he said he would take a look at it this Saturday, but it's probably the fuel pump...
I've spent about 500 dollars already to fix these craps....do you guys have any ideas? If you need to know specific information, let me know. I'll post it on here.
I do not have money to buy a new car...but I need to go to school...but my car is being a jerk....
Please help me out...seriously!!! Thanks!!!!
please reply if there is any other matter
Please visit our website http://www.auto-diagnostic.biz/ for more details.
Email: sales2@auto-diagnostic.biz
I have two problems 1st check engine light comes on and code P0440 comes up
EVAP Emission Control System Malfunction I was told that it could be the gas cap but i changed it with my Lanos 2000. gas caps are OK, I checks for leaks on hoses all the way to the rear of the car nothing. Could it be a bad can or sensor.
Problem 2 Oil light flutters afters it has been driven for about 15 minutes can i rebuild the pump or just replace the spring in the pump while it's still on the car. Any help would be great. Thanks Everett
I have a 2000 Daewoo Laganza and it just stoped running. I have spark and it seems to be getting gas. I can hear the elect fuel pump running when I turn the key on. I don't know where to start checking the other things that could be the cause. Any help or experience with this problem would be greatly appreaciated. Thank You
There was a thread of messages about this problem around 2 1/2 years ago and then it completely stopped. Did I miss an explanation of the cause for this and its solution?
Given the history here, I feel it has been unfair to have the repair shop take the hit for a problem they did not cause. Can anyone suggest why the first gasket made it 85K miles and I can't get another one to go more than 3K?
Has anyone had any luck fixing this? If so, how?
So here lies the actual question. Me and my brother are going to replace the valves ourselves. But repair manual say we need an engine overhaul lift to just get to the valves. Anyone done this job on their own? I was disappointed to read i needed an engine overhaul lift. :sick:
All manufacturers use an additional sealer for sealing valve covers, timing chains etc...
I owned a brand new 2001 SE, which was hit and damaged badly. I could not find all the needed sheet metal, so I found a 99 EX, with a blown engine. I bought that for $700 as opposed to 5 grand+ in parts for the body, IF they could all be gotten, which they couldn't. Long story short, I put my 2001 engine into the 99.
For a complete tear down and removal and swap, you do need a hoist. BUT, for a head job, I was able to do the entire job with the engine IN the vehicle on 2 of the 3 mounts. It is fairly easy if you take the hood off the car, and you will have to support and slightly raise the engine with a floor jack to remove the main engine mount on the fender in front of the timing cover. I actually had a harder time removing some of the bolts from the newer engine than the old one.
I can tell you your problem is one of two possibilities more than likely. The 99 I had wouldn't hold compression either, but would crank and not start. After I took it out, I did a tear down on it and found that the rings were almost all shot, and several of the valves had slight leaks when I pressure tested them. This is possibility #1.
That engine had 111,000 miles on it, and appeared fine on the outside, and on the top of the head itself. It had the crankshaft sensor replaced at some point, which was part of a recall that either gave a no start/run condition, or it could cause an engine fire. This is possibility #2.
When I removed the timing cover, I saw that it also at some point had the timing belt, tensioner pulley and idler pullys all replaced, which Daewoo specs out to be done at every 40,000 miles.
Since my 2001 engine had 39,000 on it at the time I was putting it in the 99, I decided to do the 40,000 mile belt replacement proceedure since it is much easier to replace the parts and time it on an engine stand out of the car than it is inside it.
I am not by any means telling you, that doing the head job is going to be a fast and simple unbolt and rebolt, at you will need some wobble extentions and even easier are some wratcting box end wrenches like gear wrench to make the job the easiest, because there are a lot of manifold bolts on the intake manifold under the throttle body that must be removed and replaced.
You also have to remove the fuel rail etc. I was able to remover the intake manifold and throttle body in one piece with no problems. Also, if you have no problem with them being almost rust welded, you can just remove the 3 bolts from the cat converter/exhaust system right where it bolts to the exhaust header. You will have to drop the A/C compressor, and the power steering unit and I believe the r adiator overflow box and the air intake assembly as well.
What I reccomend you do before you start the job, is get a complete headset gasket kit FIRST. While you have the head off, I highly suggest you find a local machine shop, and have them steam clean the head, resurface it, regrind the valve seats and valves them because even if they look ok to your eye, they get very fine pitting and it causes them to leak, and oldfashioned Valve Lapping with lapping compound will NOT seat them tight enough. Regrinding the valves and seats should be all you need to do to the head if your timing belt didn't snap, because the valves should not be bent and need replacing. Also have them change the valve stem seals for you, because the valve stems and springs and keepers are the recessed kind and you will need a special adapter end and tool to do it yourself.
Trust me when I tell you it is worth the money to save yourself a lot of time and aggravation trying to do the job yourself !!!
I also give you this last very important piece of advice: Purchase a NEW timing belt, belt tensioner and idler pullys and change them at the samew time you do the head job. BUT BE VERY CAREFULL!
I had no problem finding the belt kit complete, and I installed it when I did the engine swap as I already told you. BUT after about 200 miles, the engine died when I decelerated for a curve, and gave me the crank but NO Start condition as you described. When I removed the timing cover I saw the belt was ripped and partially shredded. I looked and looked to figure out why a brand new belt would do that, and here is what I discovered. The Brand New replacement tentioner pully, was almost a full 3/16 of an inch narrower in thickness from the face to the back towrds the block then the original one was. This caused the belt to get a gash in it on the edge of the tensioner when the car decelerated!!!
So comapare the old one with the new one for thickness, or you will end up like I did. I had a 39,200 mile engine with a brand new timing belt that snapped, and it bent 8 of the 16 valves in the head !!! And that my friend, is how I came to find out that you can do the valve/head job without removing the engine from the car!
That lousey sub quality out of spec brand new belt tensioner destryed the valves on the 39,00 mile head, so I took the one from the 99 engine and overhauled it exactly as I have described to you.
Other than that, I actually love the car, but I have now found I am having to replace my starter AGAIN. They seem to eat them. It seems that either the solenoid goes bad, so the bendix drive will not engage the starter gear wioth the flywheel. You get a single click and nothing else. The one from my 01 went first, so I out the one from the 99 engine in it and that one just went too. :confuse:
I hope this helps you out, and if I can help anymore, let me know.
Interesting about your decelerating into a curve killed your car.. That actually happened to me a month prior to the initial 'car not being able to start', but after it happened i was able to start the car right back up.. i figured it was electrical related, since i've had problems with the battery connectors before. Hmm I wonder if i'll find a similar gash in the timing belt like yours. Well thanks again Joe.. I'll post what is found and what happens.
Aside from the logic you offer, if this shop, in business for decades, had the same problem on other vehicles, one could infer they are incompetent. The other qualifier is the thread on this site about others having the identical problem. Both strongly suggest a problem unique to this vehicle. I'll post further developments, if any.
Thanks again.
Any ideas appreciated.
Regards
If your problem is the same as mine, most likely the cause is the wire running from the power button on the shift lever to the tranny controler. You will have to undo the set screw on the shifter knob, and slide it off, then find all the screws that hold the console down to the floor and lift the console off. The wire runs down inside the shifter lever from the button to an electrical connector that goes to the controler unit underneath the console. The way the car is built, there is some slack in that wire to allow movement when the lever is moved from each gear, but they apparently do not strap the wire down cleat of the levers moving parts, so eventually, the wire can get cut by the moving parts at the bottom of the lever where all the moving parts are. You should be able to splice the wire back together and wrap it really good w electrical tape, and move it out of the way and put everything back together.
Let me know if this works for you please.
even though I am experiencing the same problem as you are with my PWR lite..The engine shifts OK into overdrive until the engine gets really warmed up..Then it slips out of the overdrive gear into 3rd..All other gears are OK..I changed the thermostat and had the tranny fluid/filter replaced and still not working..Again, it shifts fine until engine gets really warmed up (usually after about 15 minutes on the highway),just all at once downshifts to 3rd gear (from overdrive) and will not shift back into overdrive (all other gears are OK) until engine cools off..Thanks for youe help!
I need new ones again. Any ideas of where to start to look for them. I need both sides.
Please try to Help me
Maurice
If there is no local dealer, my dealer still has Daewoo information
304 727 2921. Ask for Daewoo Parts Department. Good luck.