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Comments
-window etch....about 10 minutes of a lot boy's time
-credit processing....don't know. Get pre-approved at your bank or S&L. Dealer has no credit to process.
-online registration.....have them show you this fee in your locale
-tire tax....are they buying new tires? Tires should already be on the car. You pay tax on the ENTIRE car, not just the tires separately.
-Electronic signing fee....bring your own pen and sign the contract with your own ink.
-Doc fee....look at any of the above posts.
Window etch...If you want it, make sure it includes the $3-5k insurance policy as many do, helps recover your down payment if the car is stolen...or just say no.
Credit processing...Shouldn't pay if you get your own financing.
Online registration...Could be a local thing.
Tire Tax...This is legit...charged on all new cars by the State of New Jersey at $1.50 per tire.
Registration....Sounds about right for NJ
Electronic signing fee......Doubtful..
Doc Fee....Negotiate...tell them to reduce the price of the car by a similar amount.
lrguy might know what dealership group this is, since he and I are both in Colorado.
Uh, no.
But, thanks for playing!
I had to nag my dealer for the refund, but I got it. It's the law in New York.
State Tax $971.75
Veh. Data Dots $248.00
Deputy Fee $5.00
License/TransferFee $110.30
Documentary Fee $249.00
Dealer Vehicle Investory
Property Tax $28.87
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Am I missing something here????????? A negotiated "fair price" is usually the "bottomline" that you were willing to pay???????
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Unless they were using invisible reappearing ink, not possible. Enjoy your Mazda 6 and don't worry abou [non-permissible content removed]..
When I negotiate, I negotiate a bottom line price. Usually the dealer will simply adjust the pricing structure to get to the bottom line price to include whatever Doc fee they choose. Since it does not impact the bottom line, makes no difference to me, other than the tax would be a bit less. It has to do with legal issues, appears the dealers must charge everyone the Doc fee or they could face legal troubles.
For me, a Doc fee of $50 would be OK as they do provide a service in that I do not have to go to MVR. Too me that is worth a few bucks, but not $399.
It really all boils down to what you are willing to pay "BOTTOM LINE"!!!!
If they let you walk out, then perhaps you have demanded too much...but...there is always another dealership somewhere.
And remeber this...if you are satisfied with the deal you get...be HAPPY... not two days later kicking yourself in the [non-permissible content removed] thinking you could have done better.
Since I purchase a new car (suv) every three years, beieve me, I have done a lot of purchasing and "negotiating" over the past years. I am 79 years old...so you know I have bought and negotiated a loy of new vehicles.
We don't have that 'problem' here in FL, because the appears to be no law or regulation and the doc fees have hit the stratosphere! $600 - probably more when i actually get to the dealership. Absolutely ludicrous. As northstar1 has stated, find out what it is, and account for that in your final price either on the car you're buying or trading.
That's strange because here in FL they have broken the stratosphere and are halfway to Jupiter. The Cadillac dealers are at $600-700.
But the absolute worst offenders are the kia dealers, they are at $700-800. I mean you have got to be kidding me, but they're not. I guess it's part of their plan the make the screamer ads touting "$3,000 minimum trade in" and still have a buyer walking out paying more than MSRP... WTF ???
I actually went to several kia dealers last spring (looking for my nephew) and yup, they add on way more than $3,000 in Doc fees, advert, and etc., so that the $13,000 MSRP kia rio (or whatever)r costs $14,000 AFTER the $3,000 trade in.
And this is on kias. :sick:
Regarding doc fees, the best way to handle these fees would be for all buyers to walk out. If this were to happen, I doubt it would take the dealers very long to eliminate this charade. Sadly this will not happen, there are simply too many unsophisticated buyers.
The most effective method a single buyer can use is to factor the amount into the purchase price, reduce the price to compensate for the doc fee. I recently bought a vehicle in Virginia. Dealer had a $499 doc fee. After we negotiated the bottom line, I told the sales person I would not pay the doc fee. The dealer quickly lowered the price by $250 and increased the trade value by $250. There was a guy at the next table who I heard take the same approach with similar success.
Anyone interested in an insider's perspective on doc fees should google Earl Stewart on Cars. He has some very insightful comments on the Florida doc fee fiasco.
For those of you who do not know, Florida's "Gold coast" is the southern half of its Atlantic coast from approx West Palm on down, while the "Sun coast" is the gulf coast from approx Clearwater on down.
Of course he was too stubborn to ask me or my wife for any assistance so he got taken to the cleaners..... :sick:
As for cars for me & the misses, just look at my userid for what I buy.
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There is one dealership group that doesn't charge any sort of dealer / documentation fee - BMW / MINI / Honda. However, they are a one price store, so it's 6 of one, half dozen of the other.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
It allows them to prey on uninformed and avertise fake prices. I'm big on free market, but it seems it's getting out completely if control to the point that perhaps the government needs to step in. 900 bucks is no longer a fee, it's basically a deception scheme. They clearly can't police themselves and have no internal brakes.
2018 430i Gran Coupe