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The dealer is Arrigo Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep @ 6500 Okeechobee Blvd West Palm Beach.
They will be hearing from me.
Now for some questions.
1. Are you a lead foot when you accelerate from a stop?
2. Have you changed the air filter yet?
3. Which oil do you use and how often do you change it?
4. Is the trans full of fluid (IOW is it full?)
5. Are the hoses to and from the CAC in good order?
6. Have you ever cleaned the boost sensor?
7. Have you ever blown the EGR valve's "nose"?
I generally travel at speeds not greater than 65 MPH. Once you start pushing this baby past 2000 RPM it starts eating fuel. At 75 MPH cruise I get about 25 MPG. At 65 MPH I get 28 MPG and at 60 - 62 MPH I get 30 - 31 MPG. I also use cruise control as this little guy loves to run.
As for the fix, they changed out the torque converter and checked everything else. The TC had failed but was not blue as I was first told.
Are you in Florida? On a trip back from southern FL, we were greeted by a couple in a white CRD near Jacksonville on Route 95. Might you be them?
Please respond if you are around this forum.
Nescosmo.
It runs differently (better) and strangely, the shift points have migrated from 62 to 61 and from 53 to 52. When I get it into the highest lockup it now stays in that gear all the way down to 56-57 mph. The lockup at 61 used to be a little bump and now it is smoother.
Mileage is the same as before.
So the EGR situation can apparently affect the transmission shifting.
dusty
Does the inspection include measurement of NOx (Oxides of Nitrogen)? The EGR is used to reduce that pollutant.
Not yet, my model year 2003 is just at the limit
I don't have any Lambda sensor before and/or after my catalytic element. Mine is only a diesel
Here are the OPTIMA specs:
Group Number: 34 (9002-002)
RedTop®; Battery; Group 34; Cold Crank Amps 800; Crank Amps 1000; Reserve Capacity 110; Ampere Hour 50; Top Terminal; L-10 in.; W-6 7/8 in.; H-7 13/16 in.; BOXED;
Here are the Auto Zone Gold-Duralast for a 2006 Jeep Liberty 4WD
flat plate battery specs:
O.E. group size: 34 *** 800 cold cranking Amps (1000 cranking Amps) *** -> 3 year free replacement
Duralast Gold Battery
With 3 year free replacement and 8 year warranty, I do not see the logic in spending the additional money on a AGM battery from either OPTIMA or Mopar. Do you?
- 14.5 Volts is the "standard" voltage for charging a 6 element lead-acid battery.
- 13.6 Volts is just not enough.
I tried charging at 13.6 Volts to maintain an unused battery over the winter season; the battery seems to build up lead oxide on both anode and cathode plates. Using fresh or sufficiently dosed electrolyte doesn't help either. The result is waisted effort and need to buy a new battery.
Older batteries were disassembled, their electrodes were cleaned (by hand) with a brush, then rebuilt, filled with new electrolyte and charged. This took half a day. I remember seeing this done here in Geneva in the late 60's. The make was OERLIKON and this is the make I use today :shades:
When you buy a new battery, check it's voltage before connecting to the vehicle. It should range between 12.7 Volts and 13.3 Volts. So if you don't put the extra energy to build a 14.5 Voltage across the battery, it will chemically balance close to nil (due to lead oxide build up on all electrodes).
My red top "Optima" didn't last long (~5 years). I chose a standard battery sized for a common diesel engine, with less cold cranking power (we use 100% synthetic oil this should not be an issue).
Dims: 278x175x190 mm (OPTIMA was 254x172x200mm)
Mounting type: B13
70 Amp during 10 hours
640 Amp cold cranking
I prefer not to mention the cost :sick:
OERLIKON and OPTIMA both belong to "Johnson Controls Inc"
- Never forget there is always an error on a Voltmeter, even when it's a digital.
- Normally there is a 'fused link' between the alternator and the battery.
- You have an alternator problem when your lights dim near idle speed.
- You have a battery problem when your lights dim during startup.
Jeep Toledo plant may loose 1,800 jobs according to Financial news :sick:
Last point: when you measure a certain voltage on the leads, this doesn't mean the inside of the battery is getting it
Nescosmo.......
I have seen no higher than 13.5V on a cold morning and no lower than 12.8V on a hot day.
I have not put a real meter on it to see if it is way out of spec, but those are my readings.
system. I also know that you can increase your mileage by bypassing this pain in the butt useless system. I currently run b-100 with a slight kick, and have logged
30k on just bio. I have incorporated a hydrogen generator and external propane feed
which has my milage up to 29 mpg. I think I can jack that up another 3 - 5 miles
if I could get some helpfull ideas from folks that think outside the box like me.
I have 2005 liberty crd. Thanks for any and all feedback in advance.
I'm trying to locate the contact for the SEGR kits but they all reference the Lost KJ which has been down for quite a while. Can you post the contact or tell me where I can find it?
Also, how difficult is the installation and what is the cost?
Therfore my actual readings should be 14.9 and 13.7 . :surprise:
The person that assembles them is UFO and I think that he has one left. but the other person blogger name can not remember. but I do have his real name and I cannot give it to you here. If you want I can e mail you the name and address so you can wright him. But I cannot give his name over the air.
So let me know. The last time I paid $80.00 disassemble and that was on 9/07 I think that now is more. and it is different.
If when you wright to him he will give you UFO contact and UFO will assemble it for you for a price, which I think is well worth it. It will be assemble with cables and the plan where you have to install it and how to do it.
Ever since I install this thing all of my problems went away, no more egr essue and no more smoke. that gadget is a miracle wander, the best money I have ever spend.
1. Disconnect the wire to the EGR
2. Disconnect the MAF
Either one will cause a MIL unless you do the mods listed in earlier posts.
I have also found a way to get more power and as good if not better mileage.
Take a T and put it in the feed from the vacuum reservoir to the first vacuum control on the turbo. Put another T on the turbo vacuum control line. Tie the 2 T's together.
This ups the boost by an amount you can feel-I have not put a ScanGauge on it to document the difference yet.
I have found that off the line response is much better and the engine has more power. :shades:
The bad plug was not seized in the head and looked like new. I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and had to buy a socket that was designed different than what I had to allow the plug to go into the socket. The plug is small and does not need to be very tight – should be able to sense when it is snug enough unless you know what the torque requirement is and you have a suitable wrench.
I wasted some time trying to determine how to release the electrical connector from the end of the glow plug without damage. There is no trick. It just pulls off kind of hard.
blew out. what I did was kept the old ones and built new ones made of aluminium.
Made the connection hook up with clamps and small sections of hose.
I dont think these will ever blow or wear out again. I used .040 thick material
If so, did you have any problem with the 90 bend off the turbo?
it into the right diameter. then you take and wrap say craft paper around the 90
deg. bend, now you have a model so to speak, and then use scissors to cut the
paper 90 model. I cut mine into 3 sections then used the paper sections as flat
pattern lay outs. these patterns are to be duplicated onto flat metal sheet.then by hand, hammer, bend, etc to get the radius. Fit all 3 sections together and weld.
I tell its hard trying to explain in writing, but hopefully you can see how the process
went.
but not enough of a flow rate to keep up with the pump to rail system.
I bet your not getting any codes either right? sometimes the code I think was 097
will show which indicates excessive fuel leak.
I use 100 % bio fuel in mine 2005 and had this issue over a year ago. it drove me nutts for a week before i figured it out.
you see the fuel system codes will cover and pick up temperature, and pressures
but nothing will detect the flow rate.
your fix will be to lower the viscosity of your fuel, like gasoline-kerosene-diesel.
if you choose gas keep it around 12 or 13 to 1 ratio as too much gas can cause
damage to motor. safest thing is kerosene diesel or biodiesel.
hope this helps
The best thing to do is to check the resistance value first before you pull it out.
Good lock.........................
Nescosmo.........................
It's my turn now
80,000 miles is the end of the road for my alternator !
The symptoms were:
- no battery warning light during the first 5minutes after the engine is started
- when the engine runs, the battery voltage gets reduced instead of being increased
- when disconnected from the battery, the alternator goes to 24 Volts (field voltage is present)
- there is a slight AC noise (probably one or more blown diodes)
- when connected, the output voltage stays low (12 V instead of the 24 V when disconnected)
I guess it's cheaper to buy a brand new one than to have Chrysler charge 1,800 USD to stick their nose under my hood According to a local post, this is what was charged to replace the alternator of a Grand Voyager 2.8L CRD.
I had to chase two months to get hold of a set of BFG T/As. Apparently tires made in the US are hard to get :confuse:
Battery was recently replaced about 3 weeks ago. It has not given me any trouble until now.
Its still under warrant and just wondering if anyone else had this happen and if so what could it be. Thanks...Nick
With such high prices people don't understand why sales are going down :sick:
Over here it was considered a joke when people said the cost of fuel could reach 10 USD per gallon. It just made it's way there and now the game is over
Good thing I kept my little Toyota, its always there when the Jeep can't move :shades:
That's why it's so expensive.
1). White smoke coming out of exhaust when first starts up and for a few miles -- quits once engine warms up.
2). Check engine light is on. Jeep Mechanic (at another shop from where I do business) did a diagnostic and showed glow plug short ciscut
Think the two items related?
Joe
Engine runs smoothly start to finish