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All told, unless there are other shop fees that we don't know about, it should be about $460 for the emissions repairs and $825 including the leaking gasket and wires (which the other shop did not mention at all).
I appreciate the feedback in this forum. Looks like it saved us several hundred dollars. We can put that toward the new brakes and tires they also said we needed.
Oh, and we decided to do the battery and filters ourselves. The first said they charged the battery up for us when we picked it up. Any idea how long that will last?
Also going to contact the company the garage says they got the used Lexus engine from, to see if they sold one to them last month. So not much to report other than I have my car and so far it's running pretty well.
Found the FCC ID should be: KOBUTAH2T
Honda wants $110 to replace. I found a place online
keylessremotesonline.com that has it for $38 and I program it myself.
Anyone heard of that website or can direct me to another company to
buy my OEM New replacement remote for cheap?
Thanks,
Jackie
00 accord ex v6 black
This company might be a big seller on eBay, I just don't remember. And I'm not going to do your work and browse eBay for you.
Go there and check for the people selling the replacement remotes, then check their feedback. If feedback is good, then you should have no problem. Might be able to buy it cheaper on eBay also.
Now years later, MONRO Muffler and Brake has the same idea. Instead of replacing the "Lifetime Warranty" muffler on my Accord they want to sell me a $20 exhaust pipe for $100. This pipe is in perfect shape (it has only some surface corrosion) and of course they won't even listen to me!
In 1970s and 1980s I did not shop at SEARS. I guess I will not be going back to MONRO until 2020s!
2-1/4 ton $15/pr
no heights given
3 ton $20/pr
13.5" to 21"
13.5 at the low end isn't that kinda high?
it seems i would have to initially put the car jack on a brick or block to get the car up to 13.5"
from what i have been reading the 3 ton would be the way to go. better safe than squashed.
any conmments on ratchet versus peg?
thanks
The pin types quite often are formed sheet metal with some braces spot welded in.
The ratchet type seem to be better made to me, but you have to insure that the ratchet is fully locked.
I'm sure there's cheap and well made of both types though.
if you had the room, what about building your own drive-over maintenance pit? :shades:
Any ideas on the parts markup (for motorcraft, new, reman. etc)? I think I am looking at a rebuilt steering rack.
How about the bodyshop rates? I am considering a new bumper too. I doubt they would attempt a "repair" of my existing.
Thanks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Body shop labor is a lot cheaper. Last time I had something was a few years ago and rate was like $45, IIRC...I think dealers may have been around $80 at that time.
Why don't you go to Autozone, etc and see if they don't carry this part, and maybe a counter man would point it out under the hood.
This part would be a good one to start your do-it-yourself career on.
As for my "do-it-yourself", you don't want to hear about the battery that I replaced, after I took off the plastic cap BEFORE putting it in the car, in the same position as the old battery. Turned out the old one was not made for my car and was backwards...zzzzaaaappp! After much internet searching I was guided to a megafuse....and didn't need the alternator one shop tried to sell me. Anyhow, doing it myself is an option I am discarding, though I'll let knowledgable friends help!
Thanks!
I removed mine and cleaned it.
With the posters description of a battery replacement, I don't think I will attempt to describe a ICV cleaning procedure to him...
It's good thing that battery didn't explode. It's not pretty when that happens!
Cost me a nice denim shirt but cost him a trip to ER. Fortunately he was wearing thick eyeglasses but he had a very red face and arms for a long time. We doused him with that eye kit most shops have.
I also had a BMW radiator blow up on me. Thanks to my fast cat-like reflexes, that one caught me on my left arm and long-sleeved shirt, so I just had a little scalding.
Then there was the time a shop towel caught in the fan of my Alfa, broke the blades and sent one flying out....fortunately cheap plastic.
You gotta be careful out there. Cars will bite you.
Ring or watch shorted to full battery power will do permanent damage.
Newbie mechanics beware!
A guy who worked in a Volvo shop decided to work on his own car, doing an all-night bender. Well the damn fool jacks up his car with the hydraulic jack but no jackstands..so he's working away and very very slowly the old jack is releasing. He's on his side and suddenly his shoulder is pinned. he's a skinny guy and the jack fully releases so he is not crushed but he is TRAPPED!
Spent the whole night in there until they opened up next day. I bet he won't be doing THAT again.
Car batteries. I have seen them explode violently. The plastic caps will put your eyes out if the acid doesn't.
When I worked for Sears, we had a rash of Diehards that would go off. You can't believe the mess they will make under a hood.
Split Rims...Anyone who hasn't been around when one of these has let go can't begin to comprehend what they can do.
Welding tanks when they fall over and the guages break off.
Frame machines and power pulls in body shops. Just wicked if a clamp breaks loose.
Come a longs. Look pretty harmless until a cable snaps.
And the dumbest one of all...Cinder Blocks used as hack stands!
Just skip it and forget about those "services" for a long, long time.
Injectors, with gasoline bought from a 'major' brand station, should go many, many miles (75,000) without any deposits. An injector will probably fail before becoming clogged.
Most power steering fluid is good for the life of the pump. The pump would also probably fail (usually seal or hose leaks) before needing the fluid refreshed.
All the cars I have owned, I have NEVER, ONCE had my injectors "serviced" and I have NEVER ONCE had a problem with any of them.
Am I lucky or what?
If you don't feel a difference after a few miles then your injectors didn't need cleaning and you just spent $6.95-9.95 for a 20 oz bottle but saved yourself whatever the mechanic was going to charge.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
At 29,000 miles I took my pristine 2005 Honda Accord into a Rancho Santa Margarita, CA Honda dealer for a routine oil change. The service advisor talked me into their “VIP 30,000 Mile Service – With Free Oil and Lube - No Plugs Included.” *** Their charge was $362.74 - $260.47 of that was for labor – for service completed in under 2 hours. When I commented that $130 per hour for mostly simple, minor services seemed excessive, the service advisor pointed out, as an example, that the service included a cabin pollen filter, which normally cost $120. He said the filter cost $30 and the labor cost $90. To make the service sound complicated and the price reasonable, he said the glove box had to be removed to install the cabin filter.
I went home and did a quick Internet check. I discovered a genuine Honda pollen filter could be purchased for $13-$16. The glove compartment could be easily removed and the filter installed with no tools by anyone in a few minutes.
I looked at my vaguely worded receipt and noticed how little work was really done. I even wondered if all of the services listed on the invoice were performed. I am embarrassed, feel stupid, and am angry with myself. I feel ripped off by the dealer.
Never again will I buy a dealer’s packaged recommended routine maintenance. Have any others had a similar experience? How unreasonable were the charges? Is there any recourse to the dealer?
*** Services Performed (Maybe?): Rotate Tires; Inspect Brakes; Check and Top Off All Fluid Levels; Perform Multi-Point Inspection Check; Check Lights and Controls; Service Battery; Replace Engine Air Filter; Install Engine Oil Cleaner & Install Fuel System Treatment; Replace Brake Fluid; Service Transmission; Replace Pollen Filter
Your out the money. They're not going to give you anything back since you OK'd the work. If nothing else, you've gotten some education.
Rotate Tires; This did involve some labor. 15 minutes.
Inspect Brakes; Looked at the pads while it was in the air. 1 minute.
Check and Top Off All Fluid Levels; Water, PS, Wiper. The Oil, Tranny and Brakes should have been changed totally in the other services. 5 minutes max. All were probably ok.
Perform Multi-Point Inspection Check; Makes a lot of checks on a form. While the car was on the lift in the air, looked around to see if anything was about to fall off or leaking. 1 minute looking, 1 minute checking off form.
Check Lights and Controls; 1 minute behind the wheel.
Service Battery; There is no service, it's sealed.
Replace Engine Air Filter; 5 minutes max.
Install Engine Oil Cleaner & Install Fuel System Treatment; What the heck is 'Oil Cleaner', never heard of this one. Poured a bottle of fuel treatment into tank. 2 minutes.
Replace Brake Fluid; This is a biggie if they really did it and did it right. Might just have pulled old fluid out of master cylinder and refilled. If they bled all 4 wheels as they should do, it might take 20 minutes or more.
Service Transmission; ??? Did they drain and refill the transmission? I would really ask about this, because Honda does want this done at 36,000 miles. Might take 20 minutes.
Replace Pollen Filter. On some older Accords this is pretty complicated. Not only the glove box, but some trim around the console and radio have to be pulled off. Might be up to 15 minutes.
Oh, and 'Lube'. You don't have a grease zerk anywhere on the car. Now they might have smeared some grease/oil on hood hinge/lock, tranny shift cable/connections, etc.
If they rotated tires, air filter, cabin filter, flushed the brake system, and drained and refilled the auto transmission - I would think there are a lot of Honda dealers out there that are charging $600 for this much. If you got all the above, plus oil and filter, it's not that bad of a deal if you are not mechanically able to do these things. And flushing the brakes is not an easy do-it-yourself job, since it would take two people or some special tools to do it.
The only way you might know if these are actually done is to look closely at the car. The brake fittings on the back of each wheel should show wrench marks and some fluid or indication where it had been wiped off. Same for the tranny drain plug. Look at the brake master cylinder cap to see if the dust has been moved around. The new fluid inside should be almost yellowish - old fluid will be dark color. Oil filter should look new. Air filter should be clean, although at 36,000 miles I replaced one that looked new, only had a couple of specks of dirt, but I wanted to have the receipt where I bought it for extended warranty coverage. Oil on dipstick should be very clear if new. If the tires are orginial and never previously rotated, they would have banged up the lug nuts with their air wrench. My Accord EX had chrome ones.
Most of these items are due at the 36,000 mile maintenance schedule. Check your schedule in your owners manual. So, they got you about 7,000 miles early.
FYI, Family Honda said they did "Replace the Brake Fluid." But they just took the old fluid out of the master cylinder and refilled. They did not bleed the wheels.
They said they did drain and refill the transmission.
Concerning the Pollen Filter, on 2005 model Accords, unhooking the glove compartment and installing the filter is a simple matter easily done by almost anyone in less than 5 minutes with no tools: Open the glove box, disconnect on the right hand side by unhooking the stop. Push in the top left and right sides to unhook the top of the glove compartment from the dash. Allow the glove box to hang down. Remove the filter frame, remove and replace the filter. Replace filter frame. Reposition glove compartment and reconnect stop.
I'll have an experienced mechanic verify everything. I'll never blindly trust a dealership's service "advisor" again. I guess I paid the dealer mostly for my education.
Again, thanks a million!
Thank you.
These are nasty. If it's the original one, a metal brace has be be cut out. It's easier after that one but far from a 15 minute job!
If the right socket is used it won't "bang up" your chrome lug nuts.
Since the 2005 is a newer design than my 2002, I thought this might be something that had been simplified. If we had been talking about my 2002, I would have used an estimate higher than 15 minutes for a cabin filter replacement.
I did not slam the dealer too much. Several of the items on the dealer's list were 'do-nothing' items, but I did tell him that, if everything on this list was done, he got a pretty good price (around $350).
I do get a bit irrated when some "experts" rattle off one minute times for some things that can take a lot longer than that. If working on cars wre that easy, I guess we would all do it ourselves!
I'm old, fat, and can't see with or without my glasses. My times to do the few thing I still attempt are probably about 10 times the 'book' time.
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/cabinair.shtml
The support bar has 2 screws to remove it.
On models before 2004, the job takes about half an hour.
2005 and newer, about 20 minutes.
The first time, allow yourself an hour or so.
Some of those support bars had no screws and had to be cut the first time.
Anyone who thinks it's so easy ought to try one themselves!
the screw for the metal bar is located behind the center console dash in a really really really awkward place. warrants a flex-drive. i think something like that exists so you can apply torque from an off-angle position.
once the dash support is cut away the first time, subsequent changes should be relatively straight forward. but i've learned my lesson. i'm going to look for a flex-drive adapter. the metal bar removal and re-installation is a virtual bear without something like that.
maybe they greatly simplified it in the '05s onward.
i have not tried to change the cabin filter on my '02 accord so i don't know if the configuration is similar or not. i'm expecting an easier time because it has been done for me once before, so at least, no dash material cuts should be necessary.