Look at your door plackard, it will tell you the recommended pressures. I believe it is something like 32 up front and 30 in the back. You can go a couple of pounds above that to tweak the handling, but I wouldn't go to 40!
Whoa. I don't know the recommended tire pressure for the 05 Bean, but I find it hard to believe that it is 40 psi. I bet it is closer to the 30 psi that the tires were at. You don't necessarily set the pressure to the max tire rating.
has nothing to do with actual recommended pressure... If you check, you'll notice that 95% of tires have 44 PSI as the max psi.. Obviously, you can't use that as a guide for your individual car... Check the doorjamb for recommended pressure... Use that as a minimum.... You can go up from there, but 40 PSI would be way to high..
Hello All. I am STILL all over the place with what to buy next. The current short roster is the OBW 2.5i, CR-V EX AT (w/ Halon option), S40 2.4i 5M, Accord EX 4cyl 5M, and stretching to 9-3. Also thinking of waiting to see what the next iteration of the Civic yields. Safe, reliable, 4-door, commuter is what I'm after mostly. Low TCO for 10-15 yrs.
What are the chances of the following making their way into the 06MY content list for the 2.5i? ...enhanced torso airbags, 5 speed shiftable AT, tinted windows, signal mirrors, cruise control on steering wheel, interior air filtration, rear reading lights, braking assist, traction control, stability control, rear seatbelt pretensioners, and engine immobilizer.
Thanks sly I guess Im learning. I'll check the door plackard. Do you think I did any damage in the 600 miles I put on? Another Question; My wife and I are getting use to turning everything off (radio,climate control etc.) and settin the parking brake on when we turn turn off the bean.This was suggested in our first edition of Drive Magazine as a way to save wear and tear on the vehicle.What are you and others thoughts on this?
I have a 05 Outback VDC with standard tire pressure monitor and have a few questions:
1. How does this work? I know the light is supposed to come on if any one of the tires is "deflated". But if the light does not come on, can one assume that everything is A-OK with the tire pressures?
2. How is the gauge "connected" to the tires? I know this sounds silly, but I thought the tires are spinning all the time.
3. If I want to replace my stock tires, which, judging from what has been said here, ranged from "fair" to "dangerous", is there a special way when installing to insure that the tire pressure monitor remains connected to the new tires?
4. What would be a good replacement tire for all seasons? I am not an aggressive driver. Some snow conditions, but not much or for very long. Comfort, safety and less noise is good.
There's two types I'm aware of - type one is mounted on a clamp that goes all the way around the inside of the wheel. Tirerack sells this system and has a pretty good write up on it, or at least a link to a write-up as I recall.
The second type is basically a part of the valve stem assembly. Both types work by sending a signal via "radio" wave (I don't know the actual frequency band used). Basically the pressure inside is converted and range-checked against a nominal value. When the value goes too far from nominal, you'll get a light.
The different systems vary a lot in complexity and features - sounds like Subaru is using the most basic - i.e. you get a light but don't know which tire it is - unless there's a light for each tire. As you can tell I haven't actually seen one in a Subaru.
I think the government is going to mandate, or was considering mandating this type of system for all cars sold in the US.
If you get your tires replaced be sure to let the tire place know that you've got the pressure monitoring system so that 1) They'll be more careful around the valve stem area (answer "No" when they ask if you want new valve stems :<) ), and 2) Make sure they put each wheel back where it came from, since the system is supposedly set to know which wheel goes where. Although if it is only a single warning light system, I can't see where that would make a difference.
As regards tire replacement, I defer to the rest of the folks here who are much more knowledgeable than I.
I typically run the recommended tire pressure on the 03 Outback - 30 front and 29 rear.
On the GT Sedan, I go 36 front, 33 rear - where I drive a lot of highway miles every day. This gives me the least rolling resistance without making the ride too harsh. I have 76k on this set of Michelins, the tire shop gives it another 10k.
Shutting off everything does not hurt, especially in the winter months. More power to start. Also, avoid damage to the wipers if they are frozen to the windshield.
Emergency brake on an incline is a must! My 96 Outback rolled down the driveway at the ski chalet while in park. Usually I set the emergency brake, and chock the tires. Oops.
I thought the simplest system was a series of sensors measuring wheel revolutions against each other and uses some sort of equation to detect wheel slippage. Lower pressure tires turn faster.
I thought systems were required as of Sept 1 but I guess I was wrong.
Ask yourself, honestly, how do you drive? When was the last time you ran your current car up to redline?
If you haven't done that this week, well, the GT might be a waste. Less mileage and on premium fuel, while the 2.5i is perfectly adequate, cheaper, and more fuel efficient.
You could even get a 2.5i Limited for the price of a basic GT.
But if you redlined every gear as you hit that apex juuuust right this morning on the long-way to work with those curvier roads, well the GT is for you, my friend.
I respectfully disagree. I never redlined my earlier car but I still enjoy the turbo power (the surge of power), the ability to pass etc. in my outback XT. If I have to make a decision all over again I will still go for turbo version. Perhaps you are talking about Legacy GT in particular, but most likely you are not and are referring to Turbo.
Thanks, Larry, for your detailed response. So far, I have had no cause to complain about the tires and will keep them for at least one winter and will try to remember the special precaution when changing new ones. Jason
I bought my OB 7 weeks ago and now have 3800 miles on it. I only have one complaint and I'd like to see if anyone else notices this... the engine gets a little loud when it goes over 3000 rpm (manual trans.) This isn't a big deal at lower speeds since obviously I just shift to the next gear. The problem is when you get past 65 mph it gets a real hum to it. It feels like it needs to be shifted, but I'm already in 5th gear. My 2001 Forester never felt like this and the 5th gear for the Forester felt more like an overdrive. Is this a common thing? Is this smaller engine not big enough for the OB?
"I thought the simplest system was a series of sensors measuring wheel revolutions against each other..."
That is correct. The ABS wheel speed sensor can compare the speeds of each wheel and detect if one is turning more slowly (due to loss of air pressure which makes a smaller diameter) than the others. I'm not sure how sensitive it is but I suspect it would detect a 5 psi or so difference.
I have finally found a car wash here which has a self-serve facility. However, that is about 13 miles from my house and involves both freeway and surface driving.
Craig and Ken, as you guys told me and as I read in other places one should wash the car before applying a wax so that you do not rub in the dirt present on the surface.
My question is: Is it okay if I get the car washed at this place and then drive it back home and then apply Klasse? Given the windy weather here won't some dust settle as I am driving back. OR, do you suggest I should apply the All-In-One at the car wash and then perhaps come home and apply the sealant glaze.
I want to get this done today, so would greatly appreciate a quick response. I will be able to leave sooner for the wash.
I drove a 2000GT for 5 years, on the Long Island expressway,Grand Central parkway, Northern and Southern state parkway.I loved the car, but it lacked the ability to move ,especially from a standing start. In one instance a driver of an SUv decided to race me to get onto the NSP and I found myself being forced into the middle lane, by this jerk, because the 165HP didn't pick up fast enough. That doesn't happen any more, I can blow past anything on the road, and yes it uses premium, and the best mileage I got was 26mpg, and I average 24 mpg,But I'd rather have the ability to get out of trouble on my own, then be forced into another lane, which fortuantely for me at that instant, wasn't occupied by another vehicle.
You could always have just allowed the jerk to get ahead :-)
I get somewhat puzzled when I hear people justifying their turbo purchase with arguments about merging, accelerating out of trouble etc. My car for 18 years prior to getting my Outback had a whopping 70hp and took 14 seconds to get up to 60mph, and I can't say I ever had trouble merging onto freeways - it just takes a little anticipation.
C'mon, admit it, you bought the turbo because it's FUN! And there's nothing wrong with that!
Hilbert -- wash it at the car wash and then dry it off with a chamois or soft towel very thoroughly before driving home. I think you'll be OK as long as you don't drvie through any muddy puddles!
Could someone please explain to me why, in the 21st Century when everyone else goes 100,000 miles on spark plugs, only Subaru wants to A) change them every 30,000 miles, and charge $100 for 4 spark plugs? I have a brand new 2004 base 2.5i Outback with 4500 miles, and it would seem logical to go to some measurable change, like a deteriation of performance or mileage.
Tim, I had already passed the entrance to the parkway, then the jrk in the Jeep Grand Cherokee, decided he had to get ahead of me instead of merging behind me, because there was no one behind me. I stay in the right lane, do 60, and will let people onto the parkway,but when you suddenly find an eight foot high wall of steel,intentionally trying to push you out of your lane, I don't count that as being my fault.
Secondly, the GT is fun, and I saved about $4000, because I bought it from my cousin, who owns a Subaru dealership, in Westchester, compared to the trade in and sale price I was quoted on Long Island. But anyone who drives NY parkways, and has had to cope with the 20foot long pickup trucks, or ridiculously big suv's and the way these drivers use their size to intimidate other drivers, will understand the GT's ability to leave them smoking.
Not all the models have a 30K interval; I think my previous H6 had a 60K or longer interval, not sure about my 2.5 turbo. I do agree that it's a little outdated, especially considering that changing the plugs on an "H" engine is a bigger project than typical inline or vee engines. In fact, I think Subaru could stand to reduce maintenance requirements across the board. My wife's Acura has longer intervals (10K oil change for instance, and oil filter every other oil change) and it means considerably lower cost/time involved in maintenance.
I would recommend installing long-life plugs at your next change -- that will hold you for longer than 30K!
I drove back from work yesterday and the windshield was fine. This morning I jumped in my car and noticed a huge crack that starts at the base of the windshield in front of the driver's seat, and arcs all the way to the lower right corner. The arc is about 5" high in the middle.
I looked very carefully and found no trace of any stone impact. The only explanation I can think of is an improperly installed windshield that cracked from thermal stress. We did have the coldest night of the season so far at -11C (12F).
Has anybody else ever seen this on a Subaru? I can't wait to see what the dealer will say, I'm sure they will try to weasel out of it...
OK, then I guess I'm glad I don't drive the NY parkways! (not that they are the only place you find jrk drivers).
I considered the turbo but decided the 2.5i had enough power for me, especially compared to my old car. However, when I get my next car (many years in the future) I wouldn't be surprised if I wonder how I got by with only 168hp...
Exact same thing happened on my '04 Outback last fall after the first cold night. The crack started on the base of the windshield on the passenger side and carried over about 5" to the base of windshield heater grid and then back down to the base of the windshield, I also assumed it was from thermal stress. Never bothered to talk to the dealer since I didn't want them messing around with a new car.
Hmmm, don't think I want to leave mine like this for any length of time...
Did you know this is actually a safety hazard? A damaged windshield may react in a very unpredictable manner in a crash. It can also affect the deployment of the passenger's airbag, as most of them are designed to bounce off the windshield.
Thanks Craig. Unfortunately, I read your message late.
Anyway I applied Klasse All-in-one today. I think it looks good. I am not sure because it was very cloudy and dark today. Also, the car is so new and washing it made it shine. Hopefully the sun will show the effect. It was very cold and therefore I did not have the courage to go ahead with the Sealant Glaze. Maybe I will apply it tomorrow.
Is there a way to know if I applied enough or correctly. I followed the instructions but am not sure whether I made sufficient back and forth motions. Just applied it, waited a few minutes and then wiped it off without rubbing it into the car. I hope it protects the car.
Thanks for your help with this. This seems like a great product and a very good investment if it does all the things it claims it will.
My advice would have been to wipe down the car with a quick detail mist and clean towel prior to applying the Klasse.
It sounds like you did a good job applying Klasse. Don't worry -- you have a brand new car so even a little bit will go a long way. It's hard to tell on a new car since the paint job is already close to perfect. If you follow up with the sealant glaze in the next few weeks, you'll be fine.
Sly; The same thing happened to my wife's 05 Forrester. The dealership checked it with a fine tooth comb trying to find a place where a stone had hit. There wasn't the slightest divot. The cold weather and the windshield wipers defroster and who knows what else caused it. They picked up the tab after checking it over and over again. They told me it was a $600.00 windshield. I told them that SOA should be more careful with their qualty control. I have a 05 Leg.GT sedan, when I step on it the car has a rotten smell. (Cat. converta?) I'm dealing with SOA now, and they admit the car has a stink when I step on it, like trying to enter a freeway etc. but don't know what to do about it. I will never buy a Subaru again.
Saywhat: thanks, it is comforting to know that they ended-up taking care of it. It does sound like this is happening more often then it should... The Stink problem on the GT Sedan is quite well known. You will find a lot of discussions on the subject here and on the forum that is named after your car!
What a disappointing and upsetting problem for a new car. We were about to purchase either an Outback or Highlander this week, and this is really food for thought. Would you still recommend the Outback or do u miss your Highlander. We like agility of Outback but great reliability of Toyota? Would you consider a Forester without side curtain airbags or VDC? We appreciate any and all feed back.
Yes this is upsetting but not unheard of. It can happen with any car. However, this being a first model year, one should expect a few more problems then with a car that has been established for a couple of years.
There is no doubt in my mind that Toyota is more reliable than Subaru, although some here think that Subaru's reliability is "the envy of the industry", I disagree with that. Statistics, at least here in Canada, show Subaru to be about average, whereas Toyota and Lexus are consistently at the top of the heap. I've owned three Toyotas and they all had flawless reliability.
However, I'm only leasing my Subaru for 4 years and will be departing with it by the time the warranty is over, so I am not concerned.
Also, while I generally do not believe in extended warranties, and they are certainly a waste of money on Toyotas, if I was buying an 05 Subaru for the long term, I would probably get the extended warranty.
After all is said and done, it is still a great car and it has brought back driving enjoyment to my life. With the Highlander, while it was a very solid and comfortable car, I found myself not really wanting to drive anywhere unless I had to. It was really that boring. With the Ooutback, I want to drive just for the fun of it.
Also, safety is a high priority for me and the Highlander is MUCH MORE prone to rollover, doesn't handle nearly as well, and doesn't have side curtain airbags unless you go to the Limited, which is a lot of money. I would actually look at the Acura MDX and the Lexus RX-330 once you get into the Highlander Limited price range.
So if dependability and roominess are a priority for you, go with the Highlander. But if safety, handling, and driving enjoyment are more important, go with the Subaru!
Saywhat...I would give it a few more miles. I would get a smell when idleing for periods of time and also during heavy acceleration. At 4000 miles, I no longer get any smell under any condition. At the time, I just figured it was the exhaust lining, plastics, etc. heating up and burning off anything left from production. My smells lasted until about 3000-3200 miles.
Peace.... I have a VDC like yours and am very happy with it so far. But, how do you like your original tires and if you were to change them, what would you change them to? All these talks here about how "unsafe" the OEM tires were got me a little spooked! Jason p.s. I followed your advice and got a Tempur cushion as well. It works great. Thanks.
The original tires have been fine, so far (14,000mi). But, as a result of carefully following the comments in this forum, I 'll probably look for a different set in the Spring, when I replace the winter tires I'm putting on this week (Dunlop Wintersport M3). Not sure that they are/will be unsafe, but seems like there are better choices out there for safety and performance. Based on my experience and the varying opinions from this forum, I wouldn't rush to buy new tires. But, if you are thinking about winter tires (which seems like a very good idea!), maybe there will be enough new information, by Spring, to help you make a decision.
Sheesh folks, it's only a windshield. Call your insurance company and get it replaced. If multiple engines blew up in the first 3K I'd worry about a widespread problem.
I realize it's tough to have anything happen with a new car, but let's keep things in perspective.
Thanks for your quick response. In a couple of weeks, I will be taking my Subie down to Florida for the winter (hence "Snowbird":). So I will not be needing winter tires this season. but, like you, I will be checking new All Season tires next Spring. Hope by then we will have better choices.
jmtreetop; That sounds reassuring, I hope the same thing happens to my car, so far I am almost totallly disgusted with my Leg. GT LTD sedan, and like I said before, "never" again will I ever buy a Subaru!!!!
Comments
Look at your door plackard, it will tell you the recommended pressures. I believe it is something like 32 up front and 30 in the back. You can go a couple of pounds above that to tweak the handling, but I wouldn't go to 40!
Sly
I'm sure actual owners will chime in.
Oops, Sly beat me to it.
Karl
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What are the chances of the following making their way into the 06MY content list for the 2.5i? ...enhanced torso airbags, 5 speed shiftable AT, tinted windows, signal mirrors, cruise control on steering wheel, interior air filtration, rear reading lights, braking assist, traction control, stability control, rear seatbelt pretensioners, and engine immobilizer.
Another Question; My wife and I are getting use to turning everything off (radio,climate control etc.) and settin the parking brake on when we turn turn off the bean.This was suggested in our first edition of Drive Magazine as a way to save wear and tear on the vehicle.What are you and others thoughts on this?
Turning everything off... not sure about that.. can't hurt..
Setting the parking brake? Definitely!! As a safety precaution, if nothing else.
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1. How does this work? I know the light is supposed to come on if any one of the tires is "deflated". But if the light does not come on, can one assume that everything is A-OK with the tire pressures?
2. How is the gauge "connected" to the tires? I know this sounds silly, but I thought the tires are spinning all the time.
3. If I want to replace my stock tires, which, judging from what has been said here, ranged from "fair" to "dangerous", is there a special way when installing to insure that the tire pressure monitor remains connected to the new tires?
4. What would be a good replacement tire for all seasons? I am not an aggressive driver. Some snow conditions, but not much or for very long. Comfort, safety and less noise is good.
Thanks everyone! Jason
The second type is basically a part of the valve stem assembly. Both types work by sending a signal via "radio" wave (I don't know the actual frequency band used). Basically the pressure inside is converted and range-checked against a nominal value. When the value goes too far from nominal, you'll get a light.
The different systems vary a lot in complexity and features - sounds like Subaru is using the most basic - i.e. you get a light but don't know which tire it is - unless there's a light for each tire. As you can tell I haven't actually seen one in a Subaru.
I think the government is going to mandate, or was considering mandating this type of system for all cars sold in the US.
If you get your tires replaced be sure to let the tire place know that you've got the pressure monitoring system so that 1) They'll be more careful around the valve stem area (answer "No" when they ask if you want new valve stems :<) ), and 2) Make sure they put each wheel back where it came from, since the system is supposedly set to know which wheel goes where. Although if it is only a single warning light system, I can't see where that would make a difference.
As regards tire replacement, I defer to the rest of the folks here who are much more knowledgeable than I.
HTH
Larry
On the GT Sedan, I go 36 front, 33 rear - where I drive a lot of highway miles every day. This gives me the least rolling resistance without making the ride too harsh. I have 76k on this set of Michelins, the tire shop gives it another 10k.
Shutting off everything does not hurt, especially in the winter months. More power to start. Also, avoid damage to the wipers if they are frozen to the windshield.
Emergency brake on an incline is a must! My 96 Outback rolled down the driveway at the ski chalet while in park. Usually I set the emergency brake, and chock the tires. Oops.
I thought systems were required as of Sept 1 but I guess I was wrong.
If you haven't done that this week, well, the GT might be a waste. Less mileage and on premium fuel, while the 2.5i is perfectly adequate, cheaper, and more fuel efficient.
You could even get a 2.5i Limited for the price of a basic GT.
But if you redlined every gear as you hit that apex juuuust right this morning on the long-way to work with those curvier roads, well the GT is for you, my friend.
-juice
GM parts can be good - A/C and transmissions are areas of strength.
I just hope Subaru chooses carefully. Keep the powertrains intact, please.
-juice
Craig
Perhaps you are talking about Legacy GT in particular, but most likely you are not and are referring to Turbo.
This being said, I'm playing with the tire pressures on my GT to see if I can tighten up the turn in and the back end some. ;-)
The FXT is a blast to drive. I don't know why, but it is! (ok, I know why, but it's very unexpected!)
tom
Don't get a sporty car if you don't drive it sportingly.
It's fine, I mean lots of people prefer a soft ride, and I think a 2.5i Limited would be the ticket.
If you encounter lots of gravel, sand, dirt, or deep snow, the Outback is clearly a better choice. Turbos are good for altitudes, also.
-juice
That is correct. The ABS wheel speed sensor can compare the speeds of each wheel and detect if one is turning more slowly (due to loss of air pressure which makes a smaller diameter) than the others. I'm not sure how sensitive it is but I suspect it would detect a 5 psi or so difference.
Craig and Ken, as you guys told me and as I read in other places one should wash the car before applying a wax so that you do not rub in the dirt present on the surface.
My question is: Is it okay if I get the car washed at this place and then drive it back home and then apply Klasse? Given the windy weather here won't some dust settle as I am driving back. OR, do you suggest I should apply the All-In-One at the car wash and then perhaps come home and apply the sealant glaze.
I want to get this done today, so would greatly appreciate a quick response. I will be able to leave sooner for the wash.
Thanks.
I get somewhat puzzled when I hear people justifying their turbo purchase with arguments about merging, accelerating out of trouble etc.
My car for 18 years prior to getting my Outback had a whopping 70hp and took 14 seconds to get up to 60mph, and I can't say I ever had trouble merging onto freeways - it just takes a little anticipation.
C'mon, admit it, you bought the turbo because it's FUN! And there's nothing wrong with that!
Tim.
CRaig
$100 for 4 spark plugs? I have a brand new 2004 base 2.5i Outback with 4500 miles, and it would seem logical to go to some measurable change, like a deteriation of performance or mileage.
Secondly, the GT is fun, and I saved about $4000, because I bought it from my cousin, who owns a Subaru dealership, in Westchester, compared to the trade in and sale price I was quoted on Long Island.
But anyone who drives NY parkways, and has had to cope with the 20foot long pickup trucks, or ridiculously big suv's and the way these drivers use their size to intimidate other drivers, will understand the GT's ability to leave them smoking.
I would recommend installing long-life plugs at your next change -- that will hold you for longer than 30K!
Craig
I looked very carefully and found no trace of any stone impact. The only explanation I can think of is an improperly installed windshield that cracked from thermal stress. We did have the coldest night of the season so far at -11C (12F).
Has anybody else ever seen this on a Subaru? I can't wait to see what the dealer will say, I'm sure they will try to weasel out of it...
Sly
I considered the turbo but decided the 2.5i had enough power for me, especially compared to my old car. However, when I get my next car (many years in the future) I wouldn't be surprised if I wonder how I got by with only 168hp...
Tim.
Exact same thing happened on my '04 Outback last fall after the first cold night. The crack started on the base of the windshield on the passenger side and carried over about 5" to the base of windshield heater grid and then back down to the base of the windshield, I also assumed it was from thermal stress. Never bothered to talk to the dealer since I didn't want them messing around with a new car.
Did you know this is actually a safety hazard? A damaged windshield may react in a very unpredictable manner in a crash. It can also affect the deployment of the passenger's airbag, as most of them are designed to bounce off the windshield.
Thanks for the input though.
Anyway I applied Klasse All-in-one today. I think it looks good. I am not sure because it was very cloudy and dark today. Also, the car is so new and washing it made it shine. Hopefully the sun will show the effect. It was very cold and therefore I did not have the courage to go ahead with the Sealant Glaze. Maybe I will apply it tomorrow.
Is there a way to know if I applied enough or correctly. I followed the instructions but am not sure whether I made sufficient back and forth motions. Just applied it, waited a few minutes and then wiped it off without rubbing it into the car. I hope it protects the car.
Thanks for your help with this. This seems like a great product and a very good investment if it does all the things it claims it will.
It sounds like you did a good job applying Klasse. Don't worry -- you have a brand new car so even a little bit will go a long way. It's hard to tell on a new car since the paint job is already close to perfect. If you follow up with the sealant glaze in the next few weeks, you'll be fine.
Ken
jmtreetop: My car only has 2000 miles on it.
Sly
We like agility of Outback but great reliability of Toyota?
Would you consider a Forester without side curtain airbags or VDC?
We appreciate any and all feed back.
(We are fellow Canadians with cold weather.)
RO
There is no doubt in my mind that Toyota is more reliable than Subaru, although some here think that Subaru's reliability is "the envy of the industry", I disagree with that. Statistics, at least here in Canada, show Subaru to be about average, whereas Toyota and Lexus are consistently at the top of the heap. I've owned three Toyotas and they all had flawless reliability.
However, I'm only leasing my Subaru for 4 years and will be departing with it by the time the warranty is over, so I am not concerned.
Also, while I generally do not believe in extended warranties, and they are certainly a waste of money on Toyotas, if I was buying an 05 Subaru for the long term, I would probably get the extended warranty.
After all is said and done, it is still a great car and it has brought back driving enjoyment to my life. With the Highlander, while it was a very solid and comfortable car, I found myself not really wanting to drive anywhere unless I had to. It was really that boring. With the Ooutback, I want to drive just for the fun of it.
Also, safety is a high priority for me and the Highlander is MUCH MORE prone to rollover, doesn't handle nearly as well, and doesn't have side curtain airbags unless you go to the Limited, which is a lot of money. I would actually look at the Acura MDX and the Lexus RX-330 once you get into the Highlander Limited price range.
So if dependability and roominess are a priority for you, go with the Highlander. But if safety, handling, and driving enjoyment are more important, go with the Subaru!
Sly
The original tires have been fine, so far (14,000mi). But, as a result of carefully following the comments in this forum, I 'll probably look for a different set in the Spring, when I replace the winter tires I'm putting on this week (Dunlop Wintersport M3). Not sure that they are/will be unsafe, but seems like there are better choices out there for safety and performance. Based on my experience and the varying opinions from this forum, I wouldn't rush to buy new tires. But, if you are thinking about winter tires (which seems like a very good idea!), maybe there will be enough new information, by Spring, to help you make a decision.
Glad you find the cushion helpful.
Peace,
Richard
Craig
I realize it's tough to have anything happen with a new car, but let's keep things in perspective.
I will let you guys know what happens!
Sly
Thanks for your quick response. In a couple of weeks, I will be taking my Subie down to Florida for the winter (hence "Snowbird":). So I will not be needing winter tires this season. but, like you, I will be checking new All Season tires next Spring. Hope by then we will have better choices.
Jason