My 06'TL was totaled two weeks ago. There are no more new 06's in the entire state of California that are what I had. I have to buy an 07', don't buy used cars. Going in on Monday and Tuesday of next week and will report what happens. This will be the second Acura TL that I buy from this dealership in one year. They better give me a good deal. Did a ton of research this time and I know their game. So I've got that going for me.
All, I live in St.Louis. I closed deal on 2007 TL(base) today with all weather mats and splash guards package for 32K including Destination Fees. - Sreeni
I went to check out an 06 TL today as well. It was white/ebony with navi with the protection package. They had about 6 06 TL's left on the lot. Salesman gave me a price of $30,900 without haggling, and the total out the door price came out to about $33,169. I know a few hundred more could be knocked off this price, but is this a good enough deal if it came down to around $30,500? After the test drive, I was really tempted to sign.
I think you could maybe do better if you shop around via Internet requests a bit more. I've had quotes on 06 TL w/ Nav for $29,705 and 28,650.00 in the DC area. From what I've been told there are factory incentives to the dealers that are allowing many dealers to sell below invoice.
Internet price got was 33687. I went in person and got 32K. Seeing the deals people are getting for 2006, I am not sure if this is the best I could have done or not..its too late to think about it now..
BTW, I went to STL Acura.. I am a repeat customer as I already had serviced my previous 2000 3.2 TL there all its lifetime....Frank Leta didn't didn't even provide me a quote over the internet...
I did my research on Edmunds.com and found that invoice for the the 06 TL w/navi is $32,205 . and they had a dealer incentive of $2000. So his offer of $30,900 was slightly more than the $Invoice - $Incentive. Basicaly he is recouping the below invoice price by getting the incentive.
He said there was probably a few hundred more that I could get off, but any more than that would mean a loss for them. The price of $29,705 and $28,650 are amazing deals. I can't imagine how they can sell for that low.
I tried to buy a 06 TL with Navi from Pohanka on 11/30 but they were all out. Next day I got an email quote from them on an 06 but when I asked if they have any in stock they said no. Would be curious to know if the Woodbridge store has any left. Last week I was told they didn't have any '06 Automatic TL's with Navi left. But...sometimes they don't know what they have in stock during a phone call.
My apologies , my quotes were actually for MT w/ Nav. Pohanka is out of AT+Nav, not sure about Karen Radley...neither have been especially responsive to emails...one of the reasons I'm taking a look at a G35 this week. :confuse:
It probably wouldn't mean a loss for them, but it may not cover all costs associated with selling the car such as advertising and commissions that the hold back is supposed to cover.
So technically it probably doesn't mean a loss for them, but it may mean after expense profits are minimal.
Personally, I don't feel bad if they don't profit..
Just closed the deal on this car for $30,500 (including destination) in the Northern Virginia / DC area.
Based on what I see here, I may have overpaid a little, but I got the color and transmission I was looking for and the inventory seems to be drying up quickly.
$30,500 seems to be about right for an auto. For the manual, then you could have gone a little lower. I got a quote for a manual 06 w/navi for $29,6XX.
I purchased the TL (Black/parchment)06 no nav on August 31 for $29,900. Since I got the car the steering wheel was out of alignment. I found that the car was drifting to the right as I drive and at speeds of 50mph the steering wheel vibrated. Un top of that the TPMS always displayed that I should check the tires. All this within the first month after I picked it up. I dropped by the dealer and listed the issues. They told me to come by earlier in the morning during the week to have someone look at it. Well my job became a nightmare and consumed all my time for the next two months and I didn't get the time to go by and have Acura look at the car. Now it's December and I finally brought the car in and exp[lained all the issues in detail on Monday morning. They held the car over night. Tuesday morning I came by to pick the car up and check it out. Still had the issue with the steering wheel. This I demonstrated with the representative in the car. So now he lets me have a loaner so I can go to work for a 9:00am meeting. The day ended with me getting a $45 dollar parking ticket with the loaner and Acura telling me that they want to hold my car till Wednesday morning because they need to check things out some more. With all thats happening I'm beginning to regret purchasing the car. It was suppose to be a gift for my dad, but I found myself driving it. Now he tells me that the Mazda6 probably would have been a better choice than spending all this money on a car that even I don't find exciting driving.
What an I suppose to do with this car. I've lost any desire to drive it. How do I get rid of this car without taking a hell of a hit financially. It has 1700 miles on it. When I first bought the car I thought it looked fine, now it just doesn't appeal to me. If anything I would love to get rid of it and pick up a Mazda6 for my dad.
What are my best options with this purchase. This was my first new car purchase ever and I paid cash (saved up for a long time). A friend of mine says you're experiencing buyers remorse. Maybe so. By I would love to recoup so money on this purchase and by my dad a nice car the he can use to go shopping with and a means of just getting around. At the time of the purchase I just wanted to get him something great, but I guess I went to far on the purchase for what it would be used for.
Any feedback and advice would be greatly appreciated.
Sure. Radley Acura in Falls Church. I was in and out of the dealer in under an hour. Financial guy was great. Took the 4.9 financing. Sales guy was tough, thus the overpayment by me (FYI - free oil changes and inpsections for the life of the car at Radley, perhaps that's all dealers I don't know) I hate the process of buying a new car, but this forum certainly helps ease some of that pain.
The lowest quote I was able to get from competitors in the area was 30,200 for the same car in a different color. I was unable to get anything lower than that from Pohanka (unlike some of the other postings in this forum) Pohanka was responsive, but with form letters, never really answered questions via email and didn't call back yesterday, thus the purchase elsewhere.
kc07, Thanks for the nice post! I've had a similar experience with Pohanka that most of the emails have been forms and they haven't really answered my questions via email. I had one other dealer that was very responsive with emails with a good OTD quote right off. I'll post back where later
Bought an 06 TL from PRestige Acura in Nov. 05. Car was totaled two weeks ago. Went back to the dealership to buy an 07 TL. Told to the salesmanager I only want to deal with him. He said to come in Tuesday he will be there. I get there Tueday morning, he's at a car action all day. Huh?
So I go talk to the finance manager about getting my pro-rated warranty money back. He hands me a sheet of paper from the printer and says, just write on it your car was totaled and you want your money back. I'll send it in. That felt weird to me. I get home, read the back of the form and it says I have to fill out a cancellation request for the warranty. The form also gives me the option of having it sent to me directly or for some reason, back to the dealership then me. I choose me. I Called Honda Finance Corp and asked how this process is handled. They told me you have to fill out that form, you have to send in proof of the total loss. Called Prestige back about that form. Was told "they don't use it, it's not required and people have always gotten their money back." He goes onto say, "How are we supposed to recoup our loss of selling that warranty?" HUH, I said, that's not my problem. In short, Prestige signs the form for you, gets your warranty money back, takes a cut of it and mails it to you! I called Honda Finance Corp and asked if I could fill out the form and FAX it in. She said yes, but a dealership has to sign the paperwork. I had Marin Acura sign it. :-)
If you live in Santa Rosa or bay area, DO NOT GO to Prestige Acura. I drove 45 minutes to Marin Acura and bought my 2007 TL there and paid a 100 bucks more than what I paid for that 2006 TL. What does that tell you?
Thisisnuts, probably the best bet is that have Acura fix your drifting problem. Wait until all the 06 are cleared out of dealer backlog (otherwise you are competing with the dealer and they are selling a new car vs you are selling a used one) and then sell it on Autotrader etc.
But may be the troublesome aspect is what exactly do you expect from a new car buying experience? Regaldless of the brand and model, buying a new car today is hit and miss in term of initial quality. After you sell the TL, you probably need another car. How can you know that it does not have any problem?? Your problem compare to what the Camry/ES350 guy are going through is peanut. But who would know that buying a Camry/ES350 can be so problematic before it actually happen??
topgun7, thanks for the reply. I paid 32,000 OTD for the TL and now also realized that in addition to my current issues, I may not be utilizing this car as much and maybe I would have been better off with something $10,000 less. A friend told me that "to avoid a big hit on this car, try and see if the dealer has something more useful to you like an SUV. Maybe he can cut you a good deal"Does this seem logical?
BTW, I just glanced over to to Camry/ES350 forum and saw a little of what you mentioned. I did not know that there were issues with those cars.
I'm not familiar with autotrader. Is this the best place to sell a fairly new car with low milage?
Received this email from Pohanka today. Now they are giving quotes via email after I asked them to remove me from the list as I have already purchased a vehicle.
Thought I could provide this for those still in the market.
The dealer is going to rape you. Please research selling a used car on this website. You'll find that the resale value of the car is very good, so you probably won't lose your shorts but could if the dealer takes you on a trade-in. Big difference between selling it yourself and trading it in..but hey..if avoiding the hassle is worth thousands to you then by all means.... But get the car fixed, it's under warranty. Go to another dealership. A lot of people blame the car but a lot of the time clueless dealerships are to blame for issues that should be easily fixed. Hell, you might even find that you like the car after its fixed and running like it should be, if not, I least you won't have any issues selling a car that's in good working order.
By the way...there are other threads where this is more appropriate. This is a buying expierence thread...as in the experiance when buying....not the expierence after you bought it....good luck though.
I buy and sell lots of nearly new cars. to avoid a hit you must naturally buy cheaply new. Right now the last 06's are going for $28500 to $29000--I paid less than 29k a month ago. so you need to wait until all 06 new competition is gone. The I think you can sell for $28-28.5 privately as the new 07s are no less than $32-32.5 and even more.
Like another said, after the 06's are gone you can often trade OK (at dealer who sells your kind of car) for minimal hassle. Look for a low mileage car and trade on that.
Like I found a 06 BMW 330i and may trade my 06 TL on it. Dealers that specialize in high end imports can market these.
Good luck but going to a Mazda dealer and trading will result in you being MAD.
"A friend told me that "to avoid a big hit on this car, try and see if the dealer has something more useful to you like an SUV. Maybe he can cut you a good deal"
I think you would just confuse the heck of yourselves by mixing the trade in and buying decision. If you want to get rid of a car quickly without the advertising/testing/cashier check routine, you can always sell your car to any dealer without buying any car from them (just take the car in and talk to the used car manager, they will make you an offer). Different dealer can easily make offer that is a few hundred dollars difference. Having said that it is still your best bet to sell your car yourselves. Autodealer is an online site for used car. I also heard people using EBAY and car.com with success. If you sell you car now, you would be lucky to get 26-27K and with "10000" less, you are looking at a car that is in the 14-15k range (since you have to pay the tax and license again on your new car). It is a big step down (in term of power, equipment, room, handling etc.. 14-15K is the low end of Corolla, Sentra, Civic territory). Good luck to your decision. I had to trade in a 2002 Lexus SC430 after only 8 months of ownership back in 2003 and we didn't even have time to sell it ourselves... So I understand the financial pain.
I have been reading messages on how to purchase a car along with all of the rebates that the dealers are getting on the 06 TL - thank you to everyone who had helped me prepare for my attack plan' I am now a new over of an 2006 Acura TL 4dr Sedan Automatic Transmission (no navigation) with 46 miles on it (guess it was lost back there among all the other cars) - I purchased the car at 28,370 + destination charge + TTL ! This included the wheel locks, the mats and vin etching (dealer generally charges $289 for this service). Can't wait to start preparing for the new plan of attack - been eyeing the RDX (just waiting for them to fix any kinks of a new car) - simply love it - as I tell my husband - "it feels like I'm sitting on the couch!"
Congratulations on your purchase. You got a pretty good price. Just one comment on the VIN etching for future reference. Many Police departments around the country will do VIN etching on your car for free as part of a theft deterrent program. Also, you can buy a VIN etching kit on-line from a few different sources for around $20 and do it yourself. It's a piece of cake and takes about 15 minutes. So don't believe you're getting a $289 'bargain' on that particular service. Anyway, I've had my TL for about 4 months and love it. Actually my wife loves it and I occasionally get to sit in it. This is our second TL. They're great cars. Enjoy your ride.
Hi, I know what you mean when you say that you may have overpaid a little. My boyfriend paid $30,819 (including destination, mats and wheel locks) from a dealer in Long Island, NY.
I thought it was a bit much, but he wanted exactly the same car you got, black/ebony, Manual transmission, with navi. There wasn't anymore anywhere else in the NYC/NJ area (the inventory in the NY/NJ area was really dried up) so we feel we got a good deal because we got exactly what we wanted. If you think about it, you paid only $29,840 for the car (because the destination charge is not negotiable)
He love it. I just love when the car starts...the engine sounds so cool. He very happy with his new "baby". You will love it, too.
Just talked to a friend of mine. She purchased an O7 TL (no-navi) in MD (DC suburb) for: Invoice:(Inv 30,677 + 670 Dest)= $31,347 + TAX (5%): $1567 + Other Fees: $325
White Diamond /Black Interior for $33,239 OTD
(MSRP is $34,295 ($33,625 + 670) Dealer Said They Are Selling At Invoice Until New Years Day. You are better off if you don't have a trade in. Otherwise you're liable to get raped on the trade-in. Stick with the KBB trade-in value or better. (do your research).
You too can get a similar deal - all you need is a backbone and a pair of marbles. Should work at any dealer.
Believe me, the woman in the next booth is getting the 07 TL at invoice. If you knew that for certain, you would demand invoice.
You can do it dude! Eat some Wheaties! A raw egg! Some Tofu???
I understand that all Acura dealers have been given some secret incentives so their sales numbers can look as good as possible at the end of the year.
If you are fain at heart, go to the dealer site on the internet and email the internet salesperson. Don't give you real phone number at first. Use another name at first.
Say this: I am ready to purchase a 2007 Acura TL (non-navi) today if I can get it at invoice (30,677 + 670 Dest). I'm sending this email to several Acura dealers this morning. I will buy from the first dealer that gives me the TL at invoice. (COPY and PASTE)
Even easier, go to the front of Edmunds.com and fill out the "Free Dealer Quote form" Paste in my language and sent to all dealers shown. Then choose a zipcode about 25 miles from you and repeat.
Caution: If you have a trade-in, watch your butt. Dont make a strong deal up front (invoice) then give it up in the rear end (trade-in). IF ROCKY CAN MAKE A COMEBACK, SO CAN YOU.
After they give you the 07 at invoice (with a smile), they will also give you Honda credit financing at 3.9% (36 months) or 4.9% (Longer period).
Finally, DO NOT BUY ANYTHING ELSE AT THE DEALERSHIP. NOTHING ELSE. You can get what ever you need later. Nothing else!!! (OK, you can pay $55 for wheel locks, but that's it.) Nothing Else!
Nick has got to tell us what the 35k OTD quote consists of. Maybe he lives in a state w/ high sales tax, state tax, etc. Maybe the dealer gave a invoice quote?
Nick give us the breakdown of what the 35k is for.
Well, I offered 33,500 after I got quote from LA area for 31,947. Added the taxes, lic from dmv and gave the local dealer an offer of 33,500. However, the dealer said that everyone in california is give TL for $2000 over the invoice. I know that wasn't true. He offered OTD which includes tax & lic for $35,000. I am more apt to go with the internet dealer for 31,947 plus tax, lic. Do you think if I show the quote from LA internet dealer to my local dealer, then maybe the local might give me a good deal? My wife and I felt intimidate, we haven't done this before. Thanks for the great advise guys, I'm glad your there to give us poor folks some advise.
We are thinking about buying a TL. We are sold on the car...but would like some advice on prices paid, expectations, etc.
We are looking for an Automatic w/ Nav. I am not as concerned with 06 vs 07 as I am about the best deal out the door unless there is something really majorly surprising or different about the new 07's.
We live in IN so 6% sales tax here. We've noticed that most people seem to quote/negotiate with tax, title, license included...is this a norm or some kind of advantage?
I just bought a 2007 TL w/ Nav and its a great car. I specifically waited for the '07 because there were a lot of upgrades I considered worth paying more for. The Nav is much improved including adding a backup camera. MP3 input, MP3 capable cd player, new transmission, improved styling in and out (in my opinion), some other improvements...If you can still find an '06 w/ Nav and the changes aren't important to you, you can probably get one for about $1000 to $2000 less than an '07.
I traded in my 05 tl w/navigation for an '07 with navigation.. Completely different car gotta say...much happier with the '05. Drives like a dream and features are amazing. I my opinion its not worth buying an 06 at this time. The car is completely different as an '07. I dont know what people on this forum are doing
"My wife and I felt intimidate, we haven't done this before."
Jane, if you intimidated by the negotiation process, may be using Cardirects.com or Carbargains.com is a good way for you to buy the car. Cardirects is like a dealer, the have set price for every car model that they have a connection in local market. Carbargains is woking as your agents, they will get competitive bids for you in your local market and charge you 299 or so.
If you need to ask if you should show the quote to you local dealer (probably won't make a difference), you are probably not comfortable to do that. Car market is very location based. If you have only a couple dealership that sell Acura in your town, you won't be able to get good deal unless you travel (like going to LA.).
We took delivery on a brand new TL w/o nav on the 19th of Dec from Boardwalk Acura in Pleasantville NJ. Price including delivery was 28,100. I looked hard and couldn't find any difference between 06 & 07.
Comments
Dealers are probably less likely to deal for invoice on 07's. That said, some folks are getting good deals on 07's too.
Really depends on the individual and whether people want to spend the extra $$ for the 07.
p.s. it helps readers if you don't use all CAPS.
I have gotten quotes for 2006 tl with navi from 33100 to 33300 OTD
and a 2007 tl with navi 36900 otd
He said there was probably a few hundred more that I could get off, but any more than that would mean a loss for them. The price of $29,705 and $28,650 are amazing deals. I can't imagine how they can sell for that low.
I think I'll search the DC area next.
Remember dealer hold back is 3% of the base MSRP. So 3% of 33325 is ~1000. So add that to the 2000 incentive = ~3000.
So TL w/ Nav invoice is 32,205 - 3000 = $29205.
So at $30900 the dealership is still making ~1695.
At $29705 -> ~500
At $29705 -> ~445
I ended buying a 2006 Artic/Ebony TL Navi and 6speed
I had 3 dealers I was dealing with
1) Niello Sac...they decide to change the quote on me...Made it higher.
2) Hopkins Acura...they also decide to change the quote from 33100 to 33438
So I ended up buying from Acura stockton....They actually gave me a cheaper price than the quote from the email
from 33344 to 33100 OTD....Im a happy camper now...
So technically it probably doesn't mean a loss for them, but it may mean after expense profits are minimal.
Personally, I don't feel bad if they don't profit..
Based on what I see here, I may have overpaid a little, but I got the color and transmission I was looking for and the inventory seems to be drying up quickly.
Can't wait to pick it up.
$30,500 seems to be about right for an auto. For the manual, then you could have gone a little lower. I got a quote for a manual 06 w/navi for $29,6XX.
With all thats happening I'm beginning to regret purchasing the car. It was suppose to be a gift for my dad, but I found myself driving it. Now he tells me that the Mazda6 probably would have been a better choice than spending all this money on a car that even I don't find exciting driving.
What an I suppose to do with this car. I've lost any desire to drive it. How do I get rid of this car without taking a hell of a hit financially. It has 1700 miles on it. When I first bought the car I thought it looked fine, now it just doesn't appeal to me. If anything I would love to get rid of it and pick up a Mazda6 for my dad.
What are my best options with this purchase. This was my first new car purchase ever and I paid cash (saved up for a long time). A friend of mine says you're experiencing buyers remorse. Maybe so. By I would love to recoup so money on this purchase and by my dad a nice car the he can use to go shopping with and a means of just getting around. At the time of the purchase I just wanted to get him something great, but I guess I went to far on the purchase for what it would be used for.
Any feedback and advice would be greatly appreciated.
(FYI - free oil changes and inpsections for the life of the car at Radley, perhaps that's all dealers I don't know)
I hate the process of buying a new car, but this forum certainly helps ease some of that pain.
The lowest quote I was able to get from competitors in the area was 30,200 for the same car in a different color. I was unable to get anything lower than that from Pohanka (unlike some of the other postings in this forum) Pohanka was responsive, but with form letters, never really answered questions via email and didn't call back yesterday, thus the purchase elsewhere.
So I go talk to the finance manager about getting my pro-rated warranty money back. He hands me a sheet of paper from the printer and says, just write on it your car was totaled and you want your money back. I'll send it in. That felt weird to me. I get home, read the back of the form and it says I have to fill out a cancellation request for the warranty. The form also gives me the option of having it sent to me directly or for some reason, back to the dealership then me. I choose me. I Called Honda Finance Corp and asked how this process is handled. They told me you have to fill out that form, you have to send in proof of the total loss. Called Prestige back about that form. Was told "they don't use it, it's not required and people have always gotten their money back." He goes onto say, "How are we supposed to recoup our loss of selling that warranty?" HUH, I said, that's not my problem. In short, Prestige signs the form for you, gets your warranty money back, takes a cut of it and mails it to you! I called Honda Finance Corp and asked if I could fill out the form and FAX it in. She said yes, but a dealership has to sign the paperwork. I had Marin Acura sign it. :-)
If you live in Santa Rosa or bay area, DO NOT GO to Prestige Acura. I drove 45 minutes to Marin Acura and bought my 2007 TL there and paid a 100 bucks more than what I paid for that 2006 TL. What does that tell you?
But may be the troublesome aspect is what exactly do you expect from a new car buying experience? Regaldless of the brand and model, buying a new car today is hit and miss in term of initial quality. After you sell the TL, you probably need another car. How can you know that it does not have any problem?? Your problem compare to what the Camry/ES350 guy are going through is peanut. But who would know that buying a Camry/ES350 can be so problematic before it actually happen??
I paid 32,000 OTD for the TL and now also realized that in addition to my current issues, I may not be utilizing this car as much and maybe I would have been better off with something $10,000 less. A friend told me that "to avoid a big hit on this car, try and see if the dealer has something more useful to you like an SUV. Maybe he can cut you a good deal"Does this seem logical?
BTW, I just glanced over to to Camry/ES350 forum and saw a little of what you mentioned. I did not know that there were issues with those cars.
I'm not familiar with autotrader. Is this the best place to sell a fairly new car with low milage?
Again, thanks for the feedback.
Now they are giving quotes via email after I asked them to remove me from the list as I have already purchased a vehicle.
Thought I could provide this for those still in the market.
06 TL NAVIGATION, M/T - $29,970***
06 TL, M/T - $28,384****
*** stock# 6A060313
**** stcck# 6A056572
By the way...there are other threads where this is more appropriate. This is a buying expierence thread...as in the experiance when buying....not the expierence after you bought it....good luck though.
Like another said, after the 06's are gone you can often trade OK (at dealer who sells your kind of car) for minimal hassle. Look for a low mileage car and trade on that.
Like I found a 06 BMW 330i and may trade my 06 TL on it. Dealers that specialize in high end imports can market these.
Good luck but going to a Mazda dealer and trading will result in you being MAD.
I think you would just confuse the heck of yourselves by mixing the trade in and buying decision. If you want to get rid of a car quickly without the advertising/testing/cashier check routine, you can always sell your car to any dealer without buying any car from them (just take the car in and talk to the used car manager, they will make you an offer). Different dealer can easily make offer that is a few hundred dollars difference. Having said that it is still your best bet to sell your car yourselves. Autodealer is an online site for used car. I also heard people using EBAY and car.com with success. If you sell you car now, you would be lucky to get 26-27K and with "10000" less, you are looking at a car that is in the 14-15k range (since you have to pay the tax and license again on your new car). It is a big step down (in term of power, equipment, room, handling etc.. 14-15K is the low end of Corolla, Sentra, Civic territory). Good luck to your decision. I had to trade in a 2002 Lexus SC430 after only 8 months of ownership back in 2003 and we didn't even have time to sell it ourselves... So I understand the financial pain.
I thought it was a bit much, but he wanted exactly the same car you got, black/ebony, Manual transmission, with navi. There wasn't anymore anywhere else in the NYC/NJ area (the inventory in the NY/NJ area was really dried up) so we feel we got a good deal because we got exactly what we wanted. If you think about it, you paid only $29,840 for the car (because the destination charge is not negotiable)
He love it. I just love when the car starts...the engine sounds so cool. He very happy with his new "baby". You will love it, too.
thanks
Nick
Invoice:(Inv 30,677 + 670 Dest)= $31,347 +
TAX (5%): $1567 +
Other Fees: $325
White Diamond /Black Interior for $33,239 OTD
(MSRP is $34,295 ($33,625 + 670)
Dealer Said They Are Selling At Invoice Until New Years Day.
You are better off if you don't have a trade in. Otherwise you're liable to get raped on the trade-in. Stick with the KBB trade-in value or better. (do your research).
You too can get a similar deal - all you need is a backbone and a pair of marbles. Should work at any dealer.
(South of Frederick / north of Rockville) 355
http://www.carmax.com/dyn/research/calculators/paymentest.aspx?type=tax
Just input State and Vehicle Price.
Nick
Believe me, the woman in the next booth is getting the 07 TL at invoice. If you knew that for certain, you would demand invoice.
You can do it dude! Eat some Wheaties! A raw egg! Some Tofu???
I understand that all Acura dealers have been given some secret incentives so their sales numbers can look as good as possible at the end of the year.
If you are fain at heart, go to the dealer site on the internet and email the internet salesperson. Don't give you real phone number at first. Use another name at first.
Say this: I am ready to purchase a 2007 Acura TL (non-navi) today if I can get it at invoice (30,677 + 670 Dest). I'm sending this email to several Acura dealers this morning. I will buy from the first dealer that gives me the TL at invoice. (COPY and PASTE)
Even easier, go to the front of Edmunds.com and fill out the "Free Dealer Quote form" Paste in my language and sent to all dealers shown. Then choose a zipcode about 25 miles from you and repeat.
Caution: If you have a trade-in, watch your butt. Dont make a strong deal up front (invoice) then give it up in the rear end (trade-in). IF ROCKY CAN MAKE A COMEBACK, SO CAN YOU.
See my post above.
After they give you the 07 at invoice (with a smile), they will also give you Honda credit financing at 3.9% (36 months) or 4.9% (Longer period).
Finally, DO NOT BUY ANYTHING ELSE AT THE DEALERSHIP. NOTHING ELSE. You can get what ever you need later. Nothing else!!!
(OK, you can pay $55 for wheel locks, but that's it.) Nothing Else!
Nick give us the breakdown of what the 35k is for.
Maybe he is getting a good deal?
thanks
nick
We are looking for an Automatic w/ Nav. I am not as concerned with 06 vs 07 as I am about the best deal out the door unless there is something really majorly surprising or different about the new 07's.
We live in IN so 6% sales tax here. We've noticed that most people seem to quote/negotiate with tax, title, license included...is this a norm or some kind of advantage?
Thanks and happy holidays to all!
Todd & Erica
Let me know what I am missing
Jane, if you intimidated by the negotiation process, may be using Cardirects.com or Carbargains.com is a good way for you to buy the car. Cardirects is like a dealer, the have set price for every car model that they have a connection in local market. Carbargains is woking as your agents, they will get competitive bids for you in your local market and charge you 299 or so.
If you need to ask if you should show the quote to you local dealer (probably won't make a difference), you are probably not comfortable to do that. Car market is very location based. If you have only a couple dealership that sell Acura in your town, you won't be able to get good deal unless you travel (like going to LA.).
Good Luck.