Thats why I say the salesperson wanted a commitment. A deposit with a P&S... Even though you get that it doesn't always mean you have a deal, It just means you are one step closer to having a deal.
I see your point about shopping the price. That seems to be every salesman fear. So you think if he had put down a deposit the price would be good for more than a day?
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
I am planning to buy a minivan in the next month or so. Sometimes the salesmen are intimidating--especially as a woman. The last time I tried to bargain on a car the salesman replied to my offer: "if we give you that price we would have to give that price to everyone". Later I realized it was a bunch of bologna! This time I would like to be prepared for these type of responses. Please let me know what tactics you have encountered recently. Or, if there are any other pit falls you have encountered. Thanks so much!
Educate yourself as to the invoice price of the vehicle right here on Edmunds. Click on incentives and deduct those from the invoice price as they apply to your car. Just be polite and leave if you can't get your price. They will be calling you. Hope this helps.
Ignore questions/statements you don't care for. Find out what is a doable offer on the car you want, and either 1)start below that price and "let" the dealership bump you up a bit to that number or 2) Say, "this is my OTD offer, here is my money... do you accept" If they say anything other than yes, walk.
Anyway, I have read a lot--I would just like to find out some real world examples so I know what to expect this time around. I hope this time, I walk out of the dealership without the feeling of being "ripped off". I very much appreciate any input.
As long as you try to bargain, so will the salesman. His job is to extract as much money as possible from your purse. The best way to get a good price is to know what you want to pay, make that offer, and head for the door.
Make an all inclusive offer: i.e. price, plus taxes and fees, less trade-in and rebates. Leave no room for something to be included later. Your offer will be rejected at first. But things will move your way as you start to leave. You may actually leave, but you WILL hear from them again with a lower price. Wait until you hear YOUR price.
If you follow the advice the fine folks here give and don't get caught up in the excitement of the purchase you will do just fine. Strike a deal that fits your budget and don't over buy. The way most folks get in trouble with a car purchase is they buy a car they cannot afford and 45 days later when the eather wears off and the first payment comes due you find your self scratching your head wondering, what in the hell have I got myself into.
Here is what I tell my sister who lives far away from me and always seemed to get her head torn off when she bought a car until she took vacation and came to me to trade.
1. You can only listen to one CD at a time
2. You can't operate the VCR/DVD player in your house why do you need one in your van?
3. $350 a month and $425 are not the same thing. if you could afford $425 you would have said so in the first place
4. Mini Vans don't need chrome wheels
5. It takes longer for the power doors to open then manual ones
6. Your kids don't make the payments, they can have all the cool stuff when they leave the house and get a job, then you can to.
7. Captains chairs are for boats and planes, you don't need 4 of them in a van.
8. Buy a Service Contact from me when your done.
9. Buy a Service Contract from me when your done.
10. Buy a Service Contract from me when your done.
Then after telling her this she would proceed immediately to the nearest Ford Dealership and buy a Limited Model with Power Doors, DVD Player, 6 Disc CD, and Quad Captains Chairs. She would then buy an after market warranty through the dealer administered by Bill Bob inc Warranty/fishing tackle EST 30 minutes ago.
I was not talking to the general public, I was talking to my sister who at the time needed to cut corners in all ways possible, and with the way Ford was equipping Windstars at that time Quad Captains usually meant there was allot of other equipment on the van to. It was nearly impossible to find a used Base Windstar with Quad Cpt's. But yes I have one kid. A 15 year old daughter
With captains' chairs, it's a heck of a lot harder for children to claim that their siblings are crossing the imaginary dividing line (that traverses bench seats) with some or another body part.
I'd almost rather put up with an AM-only radio than give up captains' chairs with 2+ kids.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
The only other piece of advice i would have for marsha deals with financing. Check your local bank or credit union first; know what the manufacturer is offering (many are doing 0% financing or some type of joint low finance rate plus rebate). Most importantly, have a good idea of what your credit score is before you go into the dealership. Otherwise follow what everyone else stated.
Thanks everyone for you response--it has all been really helpful. I also read the article on Edmunds Confessions of a Car Salesman which was both informative and entertaining. It really helps my confidence in bargaining because I have a better idea of what to expect.
I have gotten a couple of first offers through the internet that are below MSRP but about $1500 more than some good deals people have been getting. Should I counter with a price about $2500 less than the initial offer (to allow some room for negotiation) or should I just say that is more than I want to pay and let them give a number?
With all due respect to Edmunds, "Confessions of a Car Salesman" is crap. It's one persons window into 2 dealerships. It should by no means be taken as gospel or wholly true. Plus, I think the guy who wrote it is a bit of an asshat.
Don't know if this will fly here but if not, please point me in the right direction (other than my state tax dept).
Here's the scenario: live in NY, buy car in CT trading in my current vehicle. I know if you live in NY and buy in NY you're taxed only on the difference between new and trade. CT I'm pretty sure (but need confirmation) taxes on total transaction (i.e. new car) not net number. If the CT dealer is collecting NY tax and registering car in NY for me, should I be paying the NY way or the CT way?
I know tax is the equivalent of a 4 letter word for most people, but any help is welcome thx, metmdx
I'm sure someone who knows NY will help you. Here in Washington State, if you buy the car out of state, you don't pay that state's tax, you pay WA tax when you register it back in WA. You can deduct any trade amount from the sales price so that you only pay tax on the difference.
If I trade with an out-of-state dealer, will the State of NY still give me credit for my trade-in, against the purchase price of the new car?
He knows he'll pay tax in NY, but is concerned whether trading with a CT dealer will screw up his trade-in credit.
First: I don't know the answer..
But, I don't think how CT calculates taxes will have anything to do with it.
The variables will be:
1) Does NY treat out-of-state sales/trades differently than in-state sales/trades?
2) If they don't treat them differently, will the CT dealer prepare the paperwork properly, to ensure that you get the trade-in credit.
If it were me, I'd get the answer to the first question from the NY DMV. If it is a favorable answer, then I'd be inclined to do the registration myself, to make sure that I'm not overcharged on the taxes.
regards, kyfdx
P.S.: If the CT dealer is near the border, they should know the answers to these questions (at least the F&I dept).
Please help me understand how providing a service to help people ensure they are getting a good deal is a waste of money. Do you have any idea what a triple net deal is? Do you know what wholesale financial reserve is? Do you know what the true cost of a warranty or gap insurance is to a dealer? Do you know what the current dealer buy rates are right now for financing? I do know what all of these things are, and that's why I am able to provide a legitimate service helping people for a minimal fee. Dealers will make at least $1500 on every single deal between "front end" and "back end" gross. I can make sure that amount is not made on my clients. If you can not justify using my services that's fine, but many people have been very happy with the work I have done for them in the past.
Since we don't allow solicitation in the Forums a couple of posts were removed so your message may be a bit confusing to readers without context. Suffice it to say that the question was raised as to whether employing a buying agent makes sense and that solicitation in the Forums is discouraged.
For those that don't know this reply was spawned from me stating that buying agents are a waste of money.
So I will reply.
Do you have any idea what a triple net deal is? Yes Do you know what wholesale financial reserve is? Yes
Do you know what the true cost of a warranty or gap insurance is to a dealer? Yes
Do you know what the current dealer buy rates are right now for financing? Yes
Dealers will make at least $1500 on every single deal between "front end" and "back end" gross. So?
You are just another service trying to get there piece of the pie. Is your service free? Probably not, so instead of paying profit to the dealer they pay it to you, whats the difference? Agents are just another group taking $$ out of my pocket by trying to play on the stereo type that all dealers are crooked, filling there head with a bunch of BS making it even harder for the guy doing the job right to make an honest living.
Every Agent I have ever talked to is an ex car guy trying to play the angles. They are looking for the home run just like any sales person. Most of them are people that could not hack it in the trenches so they stand on the out side trying to cherry pick deals here and there.
Please help me understand how providing a service to help people ensure they are getting a good deal is a waste of money.
Please don't take offense at what I am going to say but I am in agreement that a buyers service is a waste of money for the vast majority of people. With todays technology anyone can get the information they need to make good informed decisions when buying a car including how much to pay for it. Lets face one main fact here, we are talking about buying a car not rocket surgery. Most people with a little time on the internet can get a pretty good ideal about what they should be paying for what they want.
That being said on forums like these you have the worlds smartest car people (at least on the consumer end of the spectrum) and I seriously doubt that you could get a much better deal than most people here can. So unless you are getting the car direct from the manufacturer or have an in with the dealership owner I really don't think that the price you get plus your fees will be any better than most peoples here.
Now that being said there are some people who just don't like the whole car buying process or just don't have the time. With those people a buying service makes sense.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
> Should I counter with a price about $2500 > less than the initial offer (to allow some > room for negotiation) or should I just say > that is more than I want to pay and let > them give a number?
If you want to negotiate with a salesman and are worried about sales pitches, then I'd suggest that you read: http://www.amazon.com/Dont-Get-Taken-Every-Time/dp/0143038885 a funny and entertaining book about dealing with various sales ploys. Check your local library.
You are both right though. For most people, and generally anyone willing to do a little bit of homework, they should be able to do better on their own, since they cut out the service fee.
But, there are some people (not most of the regulars here of course) that are either completely clueless, or so intimidated by the sales process, that they might be better off.
One big caveat. What is to say that you are really getting the buyer a super duper deal? You get your $xxx anyway, so what incentive is it for you to grind the deal to the bone?
And forget about it if you are skimming off the top in addition to the fee! Although I assume you can't do that, since the buyer has to still sign the paperwork.
Of course, if you work out a side deal for a kickback, it shouldn't take long before yo end up in jail!
Why add yet another middleman to the car buying process? He's just another person who is going to take money from the buyer. All the money in any deal comes from the buyer; NONE comes from the dealer. Spend a little time researching prices and then go out and make some offers. Only after walking away from the table are you likely to end up with a really good deal. If the dealer says yes to your first offer, you offered too much.
I do agree no one needs another person in the buying process, with all of the info on the internet and research that can be done why pay a person just to do the work for you, someone would basically be paying to much for the car.
Ok question about the last line, i'm in the process of buying at the moment, what if I do make the dealer an offer and he says yes the first time, what should I do in that situation?
Well, that's probably true, but you got your car for the amount you wanted to pay. So be happy!
And next time, offer less at first. A lot less. And if they take it, be happy then too! Send your car shopping relatives, friends and neighbors to that same salesperson. Tell them you had a great buying experience and got a super deal. Before you leave the dealership, ask the salesperson for a few business cards. Get an agreement that YOU will receive $100 from him/her if you send him someone who ends up buying. Then if they buy and you feel guilty, take them out for dinner or give the money to them.
Doesn't matter if you've signed or not. If you agreed on a price, sign and pay. And be happy. Don't weasel out by going back on your word. Too many other people do that. It makes for an unpleasant society.
It's not the amount of 'tax credit' I'm concerned about. It's whether I'm charged sales tax on the gross amount of the sale or the net amount (deducting for the trade). If the dealer is registering for me in NY, I presume I get the net tax charged on the bill of sale?
It's not the amount of 'tax credit' I'm concerned about.
... I presume I get the net tax charged on the bill of sale?
Stop agonizing about this. Do what someone has already said, namely, "call the NY DMV", Monday will be here before you know it and you'll have your answer.
Until then, if necessary, have a warm glass of milk before you go to bed (there is no charge for this advice).
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
Why? If you've already found the car you want, at a price that's ok with you, buy it already! By the time you check out a few more dealers, you could end up losing the car the original dealer had.
Life's too short. Get what you want and be happy.
No, I'm not a salesperson, and generally I bargain pretty hard for my cars. BUT - if there's something I want and the price is right, for me I don't want to risk losing that for the sake of *maybe* a slightly lesser price somewhere else.
Last car I bought was my 350Z convertible. ONE dealer had the car I wanted (right color, right trim line), AND it was a left-over previous year's model, so I got a screaming deal on it. I checked other dealers' on-line inventories, looking at everything within 50 miles. There was nothing comparable to my car. So, I bought.
Moral of the story: if you feel you just have to compare, then go sit in front of your computer for half an hour and check out inventories. That will tell you pretty quickly if it's worth your time haggling over a different car at a different dealer, or if you should grab the one you already know about and make yourself a happy man. ;-)
My point was IF you and the dealer have already agreed on a price (meaning: he'd sell to you at that price and you agreed verbally to buy it at that price) then you have a deal. You should go ahead and sign the papers, pay the money and drive it away. Anything less at that point would be very naughty of you.
"Only after walking away from the table are you likely to end up with a really good deal. If the dealer says yes to your first offer, you offered too much. "
Exactly the truth!!! The dealer knows that usually the more time that they have you there the harder it is to walk away from the neg table. Especially with all of the little mind games they constantly use wearing you down. This is where you must try your best to leave your emotions out. You must prepare before you set foot on any dealership and pretend 100% that you are an actor or a poker champion never allowing your true emotions to surface until after you've left the dealer at the neg table after getting them down as close to your best price (hold your ground). Then plan to go do something that you enjoy (you will need to let that buildup of stress out - try not to go straight to another dealer without chilling a bit first). If the dealer you just left wants to sell you that vehicle chances are they will contact you (it helps to make sure they have your phone number before you leave). My last purchase the salesman came running to stop me from getting in my old car as I was leaving and said "my boss is willing to offer you his best deal". Which I got 1 more even better offer before accepting the deal.
Buying a car can be like playing a game of "Deal or No Deal" The more info, research and knowledge that you have on the car, invoice price, dealer holdback, competition, ect. the more the money you have to potentially save. But you must allow the game to play out and not take the first few offers that the banker/dealer offers. Walking away from the dealer that is not willing to offer you a fair deal is crucial. If they don't want to deal then move on to the next one. The dealer/banker is rarely your friend.
I agree with you there, i've went to a few dealerships months ago and made my offer however I was basically shot down and they stuck to the selling price of their car and I was never contacted back by them, the dealership i'm working with now are at the numbers where I want to be I just want to make sure I am getting the best deal since the dealer took my first offer so when i drive off happy, i just dont want to kick myself of not checking in with other dealerships for pricing, isn't this the whole process of negotiating the best deal? sure I may lose the car I have at dealer #1 to some other buyer, that doesn't mean I can't purchase that same car at dealer #2 or #3 I do my homework i also like to get out there and walk the lots and talk to the salesmen in person.
Comments
I see your point about shopping the price. That seems to be every salesman fear. So you think if he had put down a deposit the price would be good for more than a day?
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
I am planning to buy a minivan in the next month or so. Sometimes the salesmen are intimidating--especially as a woman. The last time I tried to bargain on a car the salesman replied to my offer: "if we give you that price we would have to give that price to everyone". Later I realized it was a bunch of bologna! This time I would like to be prepared for these type of responses. Please let me know what tactics you have encountered recently. Or, if there are any other pit falls you have encountered. Thanks so much!
Marsha in Omaha
The Edmunds side of things here also has some great tips: Tips and Advice
Follow the advice already given. Or read the 3000 pages here telling you the same thing with some variations.
Anyway, I have read a lot--I would just like to find out some real world examples so I know what to expect this time around. I hope this time, I walk out of the dealership without the feeling of being "ripped off". I very much appreciate any input.
As long as you try to bargain, so will the salesman. His job is to extract as much money as possible from your purse. The best way to get a good price is to know what you want to pay, make that offer, and head for the door.
Make an all inclusive offer: i.e. price, plus taxes and fees, less trade-in and rebates. Leave no room for something to be included later. Your offer will be rejected at first. But things will move your way as you start to leave. You may actually leave, but you WILL hear from them again with a lower price. Wait until you hear YOUR price.
What gave it away?
If you follow the advice the fine folks here give and don't get caught up in the excitement of the purchase you will do just fine. Strike a deal that fits your budget and don't over buy. The way most folks get in trouble with a car purchase is they buy a car they cannot afford and 45 days later when the eather wears off and the first payment comes due you find your self scratching your head wondering, what in the hell have I got myself into.
Here is what I tell my sister who lives far away from me and always seemed to get her head torn off when she bought a car until she took vacation and came to me to trade.
1. You can only listen to one CD at a time
2. You can't operate the VCR/DVD player in your house why do you need one in your van?
3. $350 a month and $425 are not the same thing. if you could afford $425 you would have said so in the first place
4. Mini Vans don't need chrome wheels
5. It takes longer for the power doors to open then manual ones
6. Your kids don't make the payments, they can have all the cool stuff when they leave the house and get a job, then you can to.
7. Captains chairs are for boats and planes, you don't need 4 of them in a van.
8. Buy a Service Contact from me when your done.
9. Buy a Service Contract from me when your done.
10. Buy a Service Contract from me when your done.
Then after telling her this she would proceed immediately to the nearest Ford Dealership and buy a Limited Model with Power Doors, DVD Player, 6 Disc CD, and Quad Captains Chairs. She would then buy an after market warranty through the dealer administered by Bill Bob inc Warranty/fishing tackle EST 30 minutes ago.
Go back and read them again. All the examples you could ever want and thousands more are in the Smart Shoppers board.
-Moo
Let me guess, you either have no children, one child, or grown-up children.
Your other points all make good sense though.
But yes I have one kid. A 15 year old daughter
With captains' chairs, it's a heck of a lot harder for children to claim that their siblings are crossing the imaginary dividing line (that traverses bench seats) with some or another body part.
I'd almost rather put up with an AM-only radio than give up captains' chairs with 2+ kids.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
The only other piece of advice i would have for marsha deals with financing. Check your local bank or credit union first; know what the manufacturer is offering (many are doing 0% financing or some type of joint low finance rate plus rebate). Most importantly, have a good idea of what your credit score is before you go into the dealership. Otherwise follow what everyone else stated.
I have gotten a couple of first offers through the internet that are below MSRP but about $1500 more than some good deals people have been getting. Should I counter with a price about $2500 less than the initial offer (to allow some room for negotiation) or should I just say that is more than I want to pay and let them give a number?
BTW, I am looking at a 2007 Honda Odyssey.
Thanks so much for your help.
Marsha in Omaha
That's my thoughts.
-Moo
Offering $1000 less than the best prices reported here is just a waste of everybody's time.
Here's the scenario: live in NY, buy car in CT trading in my current vehicle. I know if you live in NY and buy in NY you're taxed only on the difference between new and trade. CT I'm pretty sure (but need confirmation) taxes on total transaction (i.e. new car) not net number. If the CT dealer is collecting NY tax and registering car in NY for me, should I be paying the NY way or the CT way?
I know tax is the equivalent of a 4 letter word for most people, but any help is welcome
thx, metmdx
You have my deepest sympathies.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
You have my deepest sympathies.
You pay the tax in NY where you live.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
If I trade with an out-of-state dealer, will the State of NY still give me credit for my trade-in, against the purchase price of the new car?
He knows he'll pay tax in NY, but is concerned whether trading with a CT dealer will screw up his trade-in credit.
First: I don't know the answer..
But, I don't think how CT calculates taxes will have anything to do with it.
The variables will be:
1) Does NY treat out-of-state sales/trades differently than in-state sales/trades?
2) If they don't treat them differently, will the CT dealer prepare the paperwork properly, to ensure that you get the trade-in credit.
If it were me, I'd get the answer to the first question from the NY DMV. If it is a favorable answer, then I'd be inclined to do the registration myself, to make sure that I'm not overcharged on the taxes.
regards,
kyfdx
P.S.: If the CT dealer is near the border, they should know the answers to these questions (at least the F&I dept).
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
There is no problem with trading in a NY titled car in CT and still getting your NY tax credit.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
So I will reply.
Do you have any idea what a triple net deal is? Yes
Do you know what wholesale financial reserve is? Yes
Do you know what the true cost of a warranty or gap insurance is to a dealer? Yes
Do you know what the current dealer buy rates are right now for financing? Yes
Dealers will make at least $1500 on every single deal between "front end" and "back end" gross. So?
You are just another service trying to get there piece of the pie. Is your service free? Probably not, so instead of paying profit to the dealer they pay it to you, whats the difference? Agents are just another group taking $$ out of my pocket by trying to play on the stereo type that all dealers are crooked, filling there head with a bunch of BS making it even harder for the guy doing the job right to make an honest living.
Every Agent I have ever talked to is an ex car guy trying to play the angles. They are looking for the home run just like any sales person. Most of them are people that could not hack it in the trenches so they stand on the out side trying to cherry pick deals here and there.
I
Please don't take offense at what I am going to say but I am in agreement that a buyers service is a waste of money for the vast majority of people. With todays technology anyone can get the information they need to make good informed decisions when buying a car including how much to pay for it. Lets face one main fact here, we are talking about buying a car not rocket surgery. Most people with a little time on the internet can get a pretty good ideal about what they should be paying for what they want.
That being said on forums like these you have the worlds smartest car people (at least on the consumer end of the spectrum) and I seriously doubt that you could get a much better deal than most people here can. So unless you are getting the car direct from the manufacturer or have an in with the dealership owner I really don't think that the price you get plus your fees will be any better than most peoples here.
Now that being said there are some people who just don't like the whole car buying process or just don't have the time. With those people a buying service makes sense.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
That's a nice way of putting it. The way I understand it is...it just ain't allowed period.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
> less than the initial offer (to allow some
> room for negotiation) or should I just say
> that is more than I want to pay and let
> them give a number?
If you want to negotiate with a salesman and are worried about sales pitches, then I'd suggest that you read:
http://www.amazon.com/Dont-Get-Taken-Every-Time/dp/0143038885
a funny and entertaining book about dealing with various sales ploys. Check your local library.
But the polite "Here's My Offer" method is much simpler. Begin here to see what people are paying for a comparably equiped van:
http://www.edmunds.com/new/2007/honda/odyssey/index.html
You are both right though. For most people, and generally anyone willing to do a little bit of homework, they should be able to do better on their own, since they cut out the service fee.
But, there are some people (not most of the regulars here of course) that are either completely clueless, or so intimidated by the sales process, that they might be better off.
One big caveat. What is to say that you are really getting the buyer a super duper deal? You get your $xxx anyway, so what incentive is it for you to grind the deal to the bone?
And forget about it if you are skimming off the top in addition to the fee! Although I assume you can't do that, since the buyer has to still sign the paperwork.
Of course, if you work out a side deal for a kickback, it shouldn't take long before yo end up in jail!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Spend a little time researching prices and then go out and make some offers. Only after walking away from the table are you likely to end up with a really good deal. If the dealer says yes to your first offer, you offered too much.
Ok question about the last line, i'm in the process of buying at the moment, what if I do make the dealer an offer and he says yes the first time, what should I do in that situation?
Pay the nice dealer.
Drive home in your new car.
Be happy!
So be happy!
And next time, offer less at first. A lot less. And if they take it, be happy then too!
Send your car shopping relatives, friends and neighbors to that same salesperson. Tell them you had a great buying experience and got a super deal.
Before you leave the dealership, ask the salesperson for a few business cards. Get an agreement that YOU will receive $100 from him/her if you send him someone who ends up buying.
Then if they buy and you feel guilty, take them out for dinner or give the money to them.
And be happy.
Don't weasel out by going back on your word. Too many other people do that. It makes for an unpleasant society.
Glad you like it, its my favorite mixed metaphor.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
It's whether I'm charged sales tax on the gross amount of the sale or the net amount (deducting for the trade). If the dealer is registering for me in NY, I presume I get the net tax charged on the bill of sale?
... I presume I get the net tax charged on the bill of sale?
Stop agonizing about this. Do what someone has already said, namely, "call the NY DMV", Monday will be here before you know it and you'll have your answer.
Until then, if necessary, have a warm glass of milk before you go to bed (there is no charge for this advice).
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
Life's too short. Get what you want and be happy.
No, I'm not a salesperson, and generally I bargain pretty hard for my cars. BUT - if there's something I want and the price is right, for me I don't want to risk losing that for the sake of *maybe* a slightly lesser price somewhere else.
Last car I bought was my 350Z convertible. ONE dealer had the car I wanted (right color, right trim line), AND it was a left-over previous year's model, so I got a screaming deal on it. I checked other dealers' on-line inventories, looking at everything within 50 miles. There was nothing comparable to my car. So, I bought.
Moral of the story: if you feel you just have to compare, then go sit in front of your computer for half an hour and check out inventories. That will tell you pretty quickly if it's worth your time haggling over a different car at a different dealer, or if you should grab the one you already know about and make yourself a happy man. ;-)
The dealer knows that usually the more time that they have you there the harder it is to walk away from the neg table. Especially with all of the little mind games they constantly use wearing you down. This is where you must try your best to leave your emotions out. You must prepare before you set foot on any dealership and pretend 100% that you are an actor or a poker champion never allowing your true emotions to surface until after you've left the dealer at the neg table after getting them down as close to your best price (hold your ground). Then plan to go do something that you enjoy (you will need to let that buildup of stress out - try not to go straight to another dealer without chilling a bit first). If the dealer you just left wants to sell you that vehicle chances are they will contact you (it helps to make sure they have your phone number before you leave). My last purchase the salesman came running to stop me from getting in my old car as I was leaving and said "my boss is willing to offer you his best deal". Which I got 1 more even better offer before accepting the deal.
Buying a car can be like playing a game of "Deal or No Deal"
The more info, research and knowledge that you have on the car, invoice price, dealer holdback, competition, ect. the more the money you have to potentially save. But you must allow the game to play out and not take the first few offers that the banker/dealer offers. Walking away from the dealer that is not willing to offer you a fair deal is crucial. If they don't want to deal then move on to the next one. The dealer/banker is rarely your friend.