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Got a Quick, Technical Question?

Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
edited April 11 in General
This topic is for those of you who have a quick technical question which doesn't require an entire topic of its own, e.g., what does the code P112 mean on a scan of a 1995 ______?

We are trying to avoid ONE QUESTION TOPICS---so if you can't find an existing topic that your question fits into, from the "View All Discussions" List on this board, then ask it here and your Host will either answer it, invite a technician to answer it, or direct you to the proper topic with a link.

Okay? Okay!
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Comments

  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Cool!!
    Hopefully we can keep ahead of the posts. LOL!!
    I like the idea.
    Thanks!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Sounds like a good format.
  • I'm not sure where I should post this, so hopefully your new topic will help! I have a 2003 Acura MDX with 7,800 miles. About 3 weeks ago, my check engine light came on, and Acura said it was indicating a problem with the cat, they reset the light, and said to call to order the part if the light comes on again. It did 2 days later, and they just replaced the entire catalytic converter last week. Yesterday the light came on AGAIN. I'm really nervous that my car is a lemon - does anyone have thoughts as to what I should do at this point? (PS - I own this car, not a lease...) Thanks!
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    a contradiction/oxymoron like "honest politician"?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    First of all , get "lemon" out of your head. This is one defect on the car, and possibly a mis-diagnosis, which is hardly the car's fault.

    To answer your question, we'd almost have to be inside the technician's head for a minute. What codes did he pull up with the scan to indicate replacement of th catalytic? Did he perhaps cure the symptom and not the disease, that is, some other problem caused the catalytic to burp pretty badly?

    I think you just have to give the dealer another try and also assume that you have a 99.9% good car with a .01% problem. Hardly a "lemon" at this point in time.

    If you get into "lemon-head", you will get sour on the vehicle and every little thread out of place will annoy you.

    So I'd say stay positive and give the dealer another chance.

    We also have a HUGE on-going MDX topic, and you may wish to drop in there and pose this question, to see if other owners went throught the same thing and how their problem was solved.

    The link is:

    Acura MDX Topic

    good luck with it,

    Host
  • Thanks for your help. I guess I just get nervous with any kind of problems/issues with a new car b/c I had a REALLY bad experience with a car when I was younger (they "forgot" the temp gauge and the car overheated which caused nearly everything in the engine to break/wear out one piece at a time). I'll take your advice and take a breath, give the dealer a shot, and see if this problem goes away. I'll check into the MDX forum as well.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Okay, keep in touch with us about it and let us know how you are doing! Feedback helps everybody!

    Host
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    requires ATF +4 transmission fluid. The dealership wants $9 a quart, and I like to do my own maintenance. I've looked around, but can't find the stuff at Wal-Mart or Pep Boys - any ideas?
  • Hello, I have a 1997 Saturn L-Series 4 door, 4 Cyl. Car that won't start. I replaced my spark plugs and there was somr oil around them. I ran a diagnonstic and the error message that came up was: Cam Shaft Sensor Error, Bank One. Does anyone know what that means and what the problem might me? Any information would be extremely helpful. Thank you :)
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    I have a '93 Tercel that has a terrible window fogging problem. If it's even the least bit chilly out, I have to run the defroster full blast just to keep the windows clear enough to drive. This doesn't even keep them completely clear. The car doesn't have A/C so there's no drying effect added to the defroster. I'm just wondering if anyone else has this issue with their vehicle, and if so, have you been able to find out what causes this problem, and what can be done to make it better. This is very annoying.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    book says:

    "Only fluids of the type labeled Mopar ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) Type 9602 should be used"

    Unless you find this exact type, you had better buy it from the dealer, as any other fluid will probably harm your transmission in the long run.

    Personally I can't see the value of saving maybe $15 on 4 quarts of fluid (8.6 with torque converter drained) and buying questionable fluid, or even the RIGHT fluid, but having to drive around all day to find it.

    I'd just pony up at the dealer and sleep well at night.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    'cause my kid works at a private shop....I really want to change ALL the fluid - please read on.

    Now here's another question - I don't have the equipment to flush the transmission, like some shops do, so is there a way to get all of the fluid out?

    It's easy enough to drop the pan, change the filter and refill, but that always seem stupid to me, since you're leaving 4-8 quarts of contaminated fluid in the transmission. You're only making it a little better, it seems.

    I know it sounds weird, because I'm a hard-core car guy, but I've only owned three automatic transmission vehicles in my LIFE!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    #1 of 2 1997 Saturn, please help, error message: Cam Shaft Sensor Error by jz060702 Dec 29, 2003 (2:01 pm)

    Hello, I have a 1997 Saturn L-Series 4 door, 4 Cyl. Car that won't start. I replaced my spark plugs and there was somr oil around them. I ran a diagnonstic and the error message that came up was: Cam Shaft Sensor Error, Bank One. Does anyone know what that means and what the problem might me? Any information would be extremely helpful. Thank you :)
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    in the cam position sensor, possibly a leaking cam seal causing it - both are worth a look.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Good possibility, but would need the trouble code numbers to check the flow charts on that vehicle. I am too lazy to look up every trouble code number to see which one that is.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    because I edited my post and it was probably already read through:

    Now here's another question - I don't have the equipment to flush the transmission, like some shops do, so is there a way to get all of the fluid out?

    It's easy enough to drop the pan, change the filter and refill, but that always seem stupid to me, since you're leaving 4-8 quarts of contaminated fluid in the transmission. You're only making it a little better, it seems.

    I know it sounds weird, because I'm a hard-core car guy, but I've only owned three automatic transmission vehicles in my LIFE!
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    No responses to post #10?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Window fogging is usually caused by high humidity in the vehicle. First thing I'd check is for any dampness around/below the heater core, which would indicate a core leak.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    R&R the pan and filter, refill, bring to operating temp. Shut engine off and disconnect the cooler return line at the transaxle, usually the upper on rad. Connect a hose to the cooler line and route into a suitable container. Start the engine, leave in Park, and add fluid at the same rate it's being pumped out until cooler discharge is fresh fluid. Cooler circuit flow rate is usually around 1 litre/20 seconds. Shut engine off, reconnect cooler line, and adjust fluid level as required.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Oh,man, I'm getting tired just thinking about doing that. What if you just changed the fluid 2 or 3 quick times in a row, say on three different days. That would "sort of" do it, wouldn't it?
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    you could get 95% of it - it's the residual metal shavings and such that I'm worried about.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Actually, it's faster and easier to disconnect the cooler return line and let the engine and trans oil pump do the work after the pan's been dropped once.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Saturn engines don't have a camshaft position sensor. Camshaft position is picked up from #4 cylinder via the ignition module. A misfire on #4 cylinder will set the cam sensor code. Usually indicates it's due for new plugs and wires. Use OEM Delco if you want it to run right.

    Oil around the plugs, the owner didn't say whether it's an SL1 single cam or SL2 double cam engine. If SL2, it needs a valve cover gasket.

    If still extended crank or no start after plugs and wires, check fuel pressure. Should be 38-44 psi and hold there after key off.

    Another possibility re a no-start is a jumped timing chain caused by the nylon shoe falling apart on the chain guide. If so, the exhaust valves are dinked and the head has to come off. There's usually lots of warning in the form of a rattle out of the front of the engine for a while before the chain jumps.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    It just freaks me out to be running the pump with fluid going out one side and hopefully coming in the other. What if you don't keep up for a minute there?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    There'll be enough fluid left in the pump to provide gear or vane lubrication until the next bottle's poured in. I start with enough opened and handy to maintain the fluid level as it's being pumped out, and it's pretty easy to see the pump-out rate if the discharge is into something like clear 2 litre soda bottles (handy to have an assistant there to switch the discharge between bottles). Also, with the engine and trans warmed up, engine idle speed will be where it needs to be.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    after you've dropped the pan and changed the filter, but before you add the rest of the fluid - swap it out on a one-for-one basis using the cooler line as a dump?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Okay! I'm convinced! Thanks for the details.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    and it can be a filthy, nasty job!
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    under the car, the car on ramps, and an assistant?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I find that paying someone to do it while I have coffee is pretty stressless. I mean, every 30K or so, this is a reasonable expense.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    a competent shop in my area - I'm sorry, I just don't trust some of these monkeys.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    the dealer bunch ought to know how to drain and fill and tranny, and might even get the new filter and gasket right-side-up. that and bolt torque are about all there is to it.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    of the transmission fluid out.
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    That doesn't seem to be the problem. What's the next thing you'd check for?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Hmmm.... any chance there's a windshield water leak?
  • Overfill the transmission. I think an A4LD for example can take an extra seven quarts before you totally fill up the case. Foaming won't be a problem for idle pump out. So, add two extra quarts and pump out three. That is the way I have done it and it keeps the pump from running dry. Since most torque converters don't have a drain plug now, all you can do is keep mixing till you get most of it out. I still like pan dropping when I get a high mileage transmission. My experience, at least with Fords, is they continue to dump a lot of sediment from torque converter etc for a while with new fluid. I throw a five extra magnets in and three months later they are all pretty fuzzy and the rag comes out black from the pan. I have an 89 Cherokee and at 135K that pan was spotless. So the recomendation should be handled on a case by case basis. If you have sediment, there is plenty more still in the transmission and multiple pan drops are the way to go until it is clean.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    this stuff is $10 a quart....
  • My '89 Toyota truck (105K miles) and '93 Ford van(75K miles) currently suffer from leaky seals. Although I tried to change oil regularly and do other routine maintenance, I wonder what, if anything, can be done to prevent such problems on my newer vehicles. Searching the archives makes it looks like leaky seals are not so unusual, but they sure cost a lot of $$ to fix. Any hints out there to extend seal life? Thanks.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Another possibility, is there a "fresh/recirc" setting on the Tercel HVAC system? If so, it may be set to recirculate which will fog the windows like crazy, since the humidity just builds up inside the car.

    Dave
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    unfortunately there is not much anyone can do to extend seal life.old age causes the materials to dry out and harden or the seal just wears out.frequently, cars in storage will have seal problems too.on newer engines seals fail due to improper installation or poor design.
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    can anyone tell me where the ignition module is located on a 91 cougar with the 3.8 v6?it is not mounted on the distributor like other TFI modules of the past.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    It looks like, from Ford's info, that it is behind the passenger side headlamp or just toward the right of the passenger headlamp.
    If you look behind the grill, about the area between the radiator and the airbox, it should be in there somewhere.
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    many thanks,i will look there.
  • my girl's car continues to abort the smog check test. It is a 1991 Toyota Celica. It is unable to maintain a steady speed in order complete the test. (the smog test requires a steady speed at 15mph and another fixed point). The speed keeps dropping and rising. could it be something with the airflow sensors or something like that? didnt know where else to put this, couldnt find anything in the search. thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    This could be related to a lot of things. A bad injector comes to mind (poor spray pattern) and also a vacuum leak such as from the intake manifold. Sounds like the air/fuel mixture is changing, so either air is coming and going (vacuum leak) or fuel is coming and going (injector).

    But a bad plug wire is also possible. Maybe a good tune up will cure it, and testing for a vacuum leak isn't that hard.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Read post #24 in this topic.
  • I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima SE Automatic with 145K miles. It had 68K miles when I bought it in '99 and has provided near flawless service since.

    Last week I noticed that the tachometer showed 2500 rpm at highway speeds (75+ mph) and the shift was in D and the OD was on. It ran at the higher-than-normal revs for over 100 miles and later dropped to the normal 1800 rpm. Problem has not recurred.

    Question: Is it time to flush and change Transmission fluid? Or, does the Maxima have a sealed unit that does not require the fluid replaced? If yes, What is the recommended frequency? I have not done an ATF changeout in the last 5 years.

    Would appreciate any feedback / similar experience.
  • My '95 Mazda was in the shop last week for a cooling system check (had been running a little warm), and the mechanic left the radiator cap on "half cocked" when he was done.

    Drove the car about 150 miles, then it suddenly overheated - warped heads, blown head gaskets, leaking radiator, O2 sensors ruined.

    Mechanic says not his fault - car was running warm previously. I say has never gotten this hot (before or since), so loose radiator cap is prime suspect.

    Can anyone confirm or deny either argument?

    Thanks,

    AET
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Argument somewhat in your favor, but without full knowledge of the situation, don't quote me.

    A pressurized cooling system has a higher boiling point than a non-pressurized system. Something like 2 lbs pressure raises boiling point 1 degree (did I get that right, guys?).

    So yes, a cooling system with relieved pressure would boil over sooner than one with pressure.

    However, if your car had a pre-existing condition, it could be argued that this was an inevitable result regardless of cap on or off.

    Were I Solomon the Great, I would decree that the mechanic accept a partial responsibility and give you a break on parts or labor, without admitting any "guilt".
  • Hi, I bought a 97 prelude with the auto tran in sept. It is a great car...the only thing that I notice is when I start to accelerate from stop I sometimes hear a little creaking noise from the front passenger side wheel area. Its just a brief noise - like 1/4 sec. I only hear this when the temperature is below 32F. If I go for a long drive it will then go away when I accelerate. The car only has 51,700km (32,300 miles)on it and the brakes were serviced 6000km ago. Could it be just stiffness in that shock since it seems to occur below freezing? Thanks.
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