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Ford Super Duty Continued - VII
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Comments
Is this possible?
In auto, it shifted down to first so that explains why it pulled the hill in 1st and auto. Turning of OD would make no difference one way or the other.
On some trannys, the clutches/bands used for 2nd are different if you manually select 2nd vs using it in automatic mode.
Below is a link for the 4R70W tranny, but I would bet the principles are similar on the 4R100.
http://www.tccoa.com/transmission/page3.shtml
Looking at the ratio, 2nd in the auto tranny, is very similar to 3rd on the 5sp..
5spd - 1st 5.72 - 2nd 2.94 - 3rd 1.61 - 4th 1.00 -
5th 0.76
6spd - low 5.79 - 1st 3.31 - 2nd 2.10 - 3rd 1.31 -
4th 1.00 - 5th 0.72
auto - 1st 2.71 - 2nd 1.54 - 3rd 1.00 - 4th 0.71
Also, the tranny is generally the weak link in all HD towing applications.. Chevy and Dodge tranny's are no better or worse.
00/350/cc/4x4/sb/srw/psd/green and some other stuff...
I still think that I have a serious problem with the transmission.
I went back down, without the trailer, turned around and started back up the hill in FIRST. From a dead stop, at 950rpm - 1000rpm it started to creep up - 3mph to 5mph and at 1500rpm I shifted into SECOND. At that point I lost any forward power and started to decelerate (keeping the throttle at 1500rpm). I shifted the transmission into DRIVE and was able to continue up the rest of the way.
I did this twice, once with the overdrive on and once with it off in case it may have had something to do with it. I guess not.
I am assuming that this isn't just an adjustment problem and that a new transmission will need to be installed. I'm just hoping a NEW, NOT a new REBUILT will be installed. Is there a way to tell the difference ?? A second stamp maybe ??? ANY information would be helpful.
Koakey, thanks. Been to ford diesel. They're chasing me out right now!
Roxband. The V10 is a puller. 310 Hp and 425 foot pounds of torque is nothing to sneeze at. The psd is only 235 hp and 500 ft lbs. do you really think 15-20 % increase in torque is going to make that much difdference when pulling less than max load? A V10 used for pulling needs 4.30 gears.
Thanks
FYI, I just installed the husky molded mud flaps and can't decide if I like them or not. I found that all the predrilled holes don't line up and they fit better if you bend the lip of the fender out a little before you install them. It decreases the gap between the fender and the plastic. F-250SD 4x4, CC, SB, V-10 auto, 10.1 mpg mostly short distances.
I agree that the spec differences in power and torque don't support rumor. The curves show the V10 developing it's HP and torque at a lot higher rpms. I've ridden in both on the highway (w/o a trailer of any kind) and both seem fine. Just heard that the V10 pulls way down with a load and get crumbier mileage when loaded. Mileage always worse than the psd anyway.
The chip might help in both; heard this too. Interested from bfriesen in that data bit.
dwucher,
As to your clunking noise, I have a 91 model and have had a clunking noise for a long time under the same conditions you describe. In a chassis shift situation (stopping, starting, speed bumps, etc) the transmission support member across the frame carries the rear transmission support bracket. The bolts don't seem to keep the tranny "snug" and allows a "clunking" noise as described. Don't know if this is your problem; just another idea.
Tom 169 I am thinking maybe we need new power steering pumps on our rigs, what do you think? Anybody else have an idea what it could be?
Also Tom i believe you have the V10? I have the PSD would our rigs both have the basicly same power steering pumps on them?
Thanx John
Craig
porky ... Sorry to hear about your tranny!!! It would be interresting to find out if anyone else has the same problem with this transmission. Even though leaving the tranny in DRIVE appears to be the best method of going up a hill, it is hard to believe that locked in 2nd wouldn't pull it unless you started from dead stop with nose uphill already. Please keep us informed as to what happens.
If you had a manual trans you wouldn't be able to go up your hill in 3rd at 900 rpm either, V10 makes about 10 HP at that RPM. Leave it in drive and stand on it. Otherwise shift from 1 to 2 at 4000 rpm. You're not driving a diesel...make it rev.
There is nothing wrong with your trans.
Greg
Greg
Does anyone know who makes a toe rope with hooks
big enough to fit around the front toe eye hooks
correctly ?
Try Grainger. They sell tow STRAPS that will handle 10,000 plus. You have to buy teh hooks separate, but can get what fits, to include a locking clevis (which would be better)
Craig
check out both on the web:
http://www.calconcepts.com/SolidBedCovers/Retractable/rollnlock.html (I was quoted $850 for F250SD LB)
Good luck
Please tell me what other options I have as far as tracking my late Christmas present.
Thanks from San Antonio Texas!!!
I am still confused as to why, when starting in FIRST gear and increasing my speed up to 1500 RPM then manually shifting into SECOND, I would lose my forward momentum as if the clutches were not engaged. And then in DRIVE it grabs and I can continue up our hill, still keeping the RPM at 1500 ??? This is without the trailer. Sorry I'm LOST !!!
There my be nothing unusual about this but I still dropped the truck off at the service department for them to have a look at it. I guess I'll find out if there is a problem (or the problem is ME) in the next couple of days.
Thanks again for your help !!
Just for fun, I went to bnsf.com and put in the number but, no surprise, it's not there yet. The dealer says that it will be 3-4 more weeks to delivery but from what some of you 'haves' have said, I'm believing 2-3 weeks. This is good because I still have to sell my Ranger or take a hit on the trade in price ( That will hurt! ) The Ranger has been trouble free until now, that I'm trying to sell it, the temperature control knob doesn't work! Anyone know how that system works? I think It's vacuum controlled by an electrical switch but I'm not sure.
Now a SD related question: I've seen a lot of mileage posted here - has anyone with a Lariat compared what the computer says to what you have calculated from Miles/Gallons? I'm wondering how accurate the trip computer is.
00 CC 4X4 Lariat Auto v-10 3.73 Oxford White - Born Today!
Why are you trying to manualy shift your trans,? just leave it in drive and let the automatic do what it is designed to do.
John
Example: The truck I want with the options listed on this site has an MSRP of about $33k. But the Edmunds Invoice price is about $27k. (roughly). Is it possible that I can purchase that car for close to the $27k, or is the invoice price something other than what is on this site?
Finally, does anyone know af any auto dealers in Idaho, Oregon, Utah or Montana that have been known to sell at the invoice price?
John
I almost did a deal with Fred First Ford in Spokane. They had accepted my $100 over offer. Try them.
Got my rig from Billingsley Ford in Lawton OK. Also $100 over; talk to Carl. '00, F350, SD, SC, XLT, 4X4, deep wedge over silver.
Y2K PSD CC Auto SRW LWB 3.73
Another tip, don't negotiate "down" to your price. Offer your price and work "up". I started with "how much over invoice you gonna take?" You won't find many that will deal under invoice.
Another note to be aware of. The actual invoice of the vehicle will contain a fuel charge and what Ford calls FDAF (Ford Dealer Advertising Fee). I haven't seen either of these (fuel or FDAF) really itemized on either kbb or edmund (and I suspect because they vary... fuel based on fuel cost and type; FDAF is based on region and vehicle type).
You'll probably have to pay for those as well (since they are on the actual vehicle invoice).
When you talk to the dealer, find out what the off-the-lot price is or the dealer may sneak in prep and other misc charged.
Oh, and don't forget tax, license, title (at least here in CO the additional non-negotiable costs).
Thanks for the reply!
Mainecowgirl- you have been most patient.
Hope you all enjoy your trucks.
rflint- I have the squeek also in the front end. Started around 1000- miles. I saw a link not too for back in this or the last set of posts that gave the explanation and remedy. When I get oil changed I will hopefully have squeek fixed. I have bad hearing and I can still hear it very clearly. Would also like to hear what products others use to clean and wax. Do you wax or polish, or both, sort of confused. Don't want to scratch up the paint with the wrong products.
Let us know what the dealer says.. I was sortof leaning toward the side that this could be normal for the autos manual 2nd gear at only 1000 rpms w/v10 not having enough torque/hp to really drive 2nd up a hill.. It was weird to me that the 2nd gear in manual mode uses the OD band in the tranny, whereas in automatic mode it uses a set of clutches.. This might even explain differences between using 2nd in manual mode vs automatic mode.
dwucher: count me as a yes, my tranny has this clunking type of noise under those circumstances. To me this clunking is much less annoying than the exaust flutter I hear on acceleration which sounds much like an airy ping (to make up my own term). I'm sure tom169 would agree with me.
craigwilliamson:
I know that you can't get 5.4L + 5sp + 3.73LS.
I went with the 5.4L + 5sp + 4.10LS and don't regret it at all..
The edumunds site does give restrictions on who can get the 3.73LS and who cant.. Folks with the V10 have it even more weird:
V10 + 5sp + 3.73LS is NOT available.
V10 + auto + 3.73LS IS available.
So, with the V10, you need either 4.30 and/or auto tranny to get an LS rear.. Strange but true.
I just got back from a road trip to the beach and back.. Mostly highway with some lights through small towns.. Average MPG for the 325 mile trip = 17.4 mpg.. So, I think the 4.10's aren't hurting me to badly.. (I have stock tires)
Y2K F250 XLT SC 4x2 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS white with yellow pine pollen sprinkled all over it.
Ordered 12/21, built week of 3/13
y2k f250SD CC LB Lariat v10 auto 3.73ls 4x4 265s trailer tow green/gold etc.
This has been a great forum for info and passing away the weeks. Dealer claims to be stuck by Ford with the price increase (which he's passing on to me) even though the order went in with a price code 017 - says he will show me the paperwork. Does this sound legit?? ~$200 bucks is 200 bucks.
SC 4x4 5.4L 5spd 4.10LS ORP TTP Deep Wedgewood Blue w/ Silver lower.
I placed the order March 4th. No complaints on the delivery time from me!
Initial impression is excellent, but that 1st gear
is really low!
The technician said that when the transmission is manually put in SECOND, that's where it is locked and stays. (as was pointed out to me by several of you knowledgeable individuals)
I guess I haven't read my owners manual as thoroughly as I thought. Again, this is my FIRST FORD product and I guess I expected this transmission to act like others I have owned .
THANKS to EVERYONE for their help, concern and suggested solutions. This is really a great forum.
Paul aka Porky
When I dropped the spare, I noticed, as bowhuntwi did, that the spare is same size as my RWL tires, but has a black sidewall.
BTW, for all, changing the tire on this beast we not as tough as I though it would be. I had the most trouble getting the little spare tire key do-hickey to click onto the end of the jack handle, and then getting the spare tire key to engage into the crank mechanism at the rear of the truck.
New tire cost me $128 installed at the local Firestone shop. When the kid at the shop cranked my spare back up, he did so with the air valve pointing down. The Ford book specifically says that the valve should be up (to protect it, I suppose), but I was thinking that if the valve is down, I can easily check the tire pressure and refill the spare if necessary.
I've been debating cranking the tire down and flipping it over. Easy access to the air valve is appealing, but a damaged air valve is not. I don't do much off roading, so I believe that valve damage is a remote possibility. What do you all think?
sgknox: The only way I could get my V-10's mileage to go up was to drive my wife's car more often...just a joke; sorry.
Is anyone having problems with their new cup holders when closing, that you just can't close them, you gotta give it a quick shove. Plus I have leather seats, my driver's side started flaking about a week after arriving, figured I should take it to the dealer right away, or they would say I had done something to cause it. Other then that, it's a Hunter's Limo. 00 CC Lariat 4x4 woodland green 5.4 4.10LS.......14.4 Highway last trip 70 on cruise. loaded but not towing.
bowhuntwi - I seem to remember seeing this discussed on www.ford-diesel.com and I believe the consensus is that the spare is black lettered even if the 4 mounted tires are white lettered.
My F-150 (97 and Y2K) and 98 Expedition have raised white letters and the three spares were blackwall. I think it is standard for Ford to do that.