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Dodge Dakota - IV
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I went to tirerack.com and saw they had winter tires, but reccomended you use all 4. I wanted to see the tires in the flesh so I went to National Tire and Battery (NTB) and looked at the Alpins and Blizaks. I asked about using just 2 and they said it would be OK for a RWD truck. No big deal. $99 each. I then went to the Firestone store and they were pushing 4 tires (at $115 each).
Based on what I saw and read at tirerack.com I decided on the Blizaks and ordered 2 on line from them on line last night. I got a warning screen about puting just 2 on the car, but it let me order.
I then read post 414 and decided to get the Alpins since we don't get too much snow here and I wanted the longer life. I called tirerack.com at 8:15 this morning and asked to change my order. Everything was going well until I said I wanted 2. The guy would not sell me just 2! I then asked to keep my order the same and he said he could not do that, he had to cancel. He said there were lawsuits about runing all season and soft-rubber winter tires and he had orders not to accept any orders for 2. I ended up ordering wintermaster plus tires which are a traditional snow tire.
My question is, what bad thing happens when you mix regular all season tires and soft-rubber winter tires? They say it changes the handling, but how?
with traditional wheel drive, the non drive axle front can be steered and that helps with tracking, but the additional traction offered with a winter or snow tire may improve tracking significantly. Actually Joe, it has been so long since I have had any 2WD vehicle that perhaps I am off base with my answer. I never compare my father's and my grandfather's driving habits, as my Dad was a poor driver and my grandfather never operated a vehicle. Did anybody at least offer a "makes sense" answer? Besides, isn't Telford on the line of Bucks and Montgomery Counties? It never snows there
Bookitty
RWD vehicles with true snow tires in the rear will have better "go" in the snow and not as much "stop". (The front tires do over 60% of the stopping in ALL vehicles... especially an unloaded truck)
With a 2WD truck, I have used Nokia Hakkapalittas on the rear with studs. (The BEST snow tire made!! ) One must also add weight to the bed of the truck directly over the rear axle. Many people build a simple frame out of 2X6 that fits over the wheelwells that allows a few bags of sand to stay put. Others put sand in 5-gallon pails in the frame. You have ready-access sand if you get stuck.
In any case, without some way to stablize the weight you are asking for trouble!!
Joe
Bookitty
"As a demonstration of our commitment to customer safety and satisfaction, Bridgestone/Firestone, after consultation with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, has announced
a voluntary phased recall of P235/75R15 Radial ATX and Radial ATX II tires and certain Wilderness AT tires. We believe that these tires, when properly inflated and maintained, are among
the safest on the road..."
Not really the answer I was looking for.
Bookitty
Perhaps I should start a library of "canned answers" like Fire-Bridge-stone;->
Bookitty
It seems like TireRack.com gave me a line of BS by refusing to sell me just 2. Kinda ticks me off that I purchased 2 regular snow tires from them. Live and learn.
Drive Safe,
Joe
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/toys.htm
FYI, JBA will have headers for the 4.7 available by Christmas. Will they help mileage? Power? Torque? Ahhh who cares...it will sound even better and I will enjoy the meaning of life; acceleration.
The oil and moisture mixes together to make a brownish white goop. This sticks to cold surfaces like the oil filler. It usually burns off when it gets hot, but the oil filler dosent' really get that hot. A long run on the highway in the summer may remove it.
Drive Safe,
Joe
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/toys.htm
Specifically, the "goop" you refer to is an oil-water emulsion that is highly acidic. Oils that have sulfer-based additives create SULPHERIC ACID under these conditions.(corrodes metal!)
There are a couple of TSBs that that addressed this problem. One contains 2 replacement parts for your engine.
Please see the detailed explanation within the CLUBS area under Dakota.
2000 Dakota club cab. Ive always had great luck with Ford trucks but I need to put a car seat in
the back and the Ranger is to small. I like the looks of the Dakota and the size of the truck is perfect but Ive heard a lot of horror stories about them..bad tranny,engine problems,cheap interior etc..has anyting changed??
if the rear seat of the club cab will accomadate a child seat. Post this in the Dodge Dakota Owner,s club if you haven' already. Scroll down in the conferences window in the left hand margin.
Bookitty
and hopefully will be able to make a deal!!
Bookitty
I was on limited access highways and toll roads. I
also had an A.R.E. fiber glass tonneau cover. I did not check every tankful, but when I did, that's where it was. Incidently, my 2000 Quad cab with 4.7 and equipped like my '95 offers me much the same mileage. I am a believer in and user of cruise control. Keeps mileage up and violations down as far as I am concerned.
Bookitty
As a side note, my 1995 Dakota Sport with a 318/auto has 128k miles on it and it's still running great! I haven't had any problems with it and I've only had to perform normal maintenance such as oil changes, brake pads, etc. I'll probably replace it next year with a Dakota R/T.
The only reason I say "probably" is becasue I've seen some articles that basically say you have to spend a pile of money to make it go fast. Anyone in here know the real perfromance numbers for an R/T? I've read a couple of articels where they say it's a dog and show 16 second 1/4 mile times and about a 7.9 second 0-60 time. I've also seen other articles claiming 15 second 1/4 mile times and about 7.5 seconds 0-60. This is pretty slow in either case.
I don't understand why the truck would be so slow. It's about the same weight as my '69 Road Runner with a 383. Also, the HP ratings these days are supposed to be true HP after accessory drives as opposed to the "naked engine" HP ratings of the 1960s. Given that premise, the 360 in the R/T has more "real" HP than my 383 and about as much torque. So why so slow? My Road Runner is in the mid 14s for the 1/4 mile in bone stock trim. If I take the articles I've read at face value, the 0-60 times are about the same as some compact cars and the 1/4 mile times aren't much better. What gives?
As far as performance, the 5.9L (360cid) offered in the R/T is first and formost still a truck engine. I am a Mopar fan as well and a quad cab Dakota owner myself, and I wouldn't waste the money on an R/T Dak right now. if you can wait until they come out with the 5.7L V8 or if you need one now, get the 4.7L with a 5-speed, it's pretty peppy.
Remember it's not neccessarily HP that counts. Torque is what get you moving. you bird has 425 ft/lbs w/ the 383. the 5.9 has 330. also I belive there are more losses with the OD trans's then the old 727's.
Thanks for the info. I hadn't heard about the 5.7L coming to the Dakota. That should be a nice engine. Any idea when this engine will show up?
RdRunner
2. Anyone know when K&N, or other similar, high quality, induction enhancements will be available "off-the-shelf," w/o any madification for 4.7?
3. Anyone know of a quality, goodlooking, across-the-bed,'tuff tool box especially sized to Dakota?
BTW I beleive the standard rear end is 3.55.
Inquiring minds want to know...
The speedometer calibration will needed to be corrected. This is a simple reprogaming that can be done by the dealer (assuming OEM or OEM optional tire sizes)
Also, I need new rubber--Goodyear is not good. Sears wants to put P255/70/15 on the truck. Anyone know if this will fit without any negative effects? Thanks for any advice you may have for me.
If you have the 215/75 I would go 255/60 or 255/65 the 60 will be about 3/8 short and the 65 about 3/8 big.
If you want a 70 series I would go 235/70 like the Dunlop Sport Rover GTX.
This is all assuming you are currently running the standard 215/75-15 OEM tires.
The size is perfect for fitting within the wheel wells if you don't have the flares. I know in some areas tires cannot stick out or you get a big fat ticket.
My recomendations were made using the assumtion that the owner was not interested in reprogramming and so on. If they don't mind reprograming, find tires that the OD closely match one of the factory options.
OIf course, in the final analysis everyone needs to use what fits their needs and budget. Thankfully with a truck you aren't as limited on sizes as you are with a car.