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2007 and newer Chevrolet Tahoe and GMC Yukon
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Im still torn on the tinting issue. I dont want to screw up my NAV with metallic tint, but tinted only doesnt help with the heat like metallic does.
I do have a question about that though. Once the first year of Onstar is up...do you have to continue paying for onstar to use the verizon service on the system? I have had several Tahoes and Blazers with Onstar and never renewed it after the free year...because I have not needed it. Anybody know?
* Please note that the Denali 6.2 eng. is the same as the Escalades. The Escalade is tuned for Premium Fuel, so that's why it claims a few more horses. The Denali's torque rating is 2 lbs different, so they are equivalent by most standards.
The total weight of the boat/trailer is 4200 lbs. Tongue weight is about 350 lbs (depends on fuel in boat).
We went to a lake that's about 55 miles from home (Mother's Day outing). It required driving 20 miles on I-80 (over Donner Summit in the Sierra Nevada), and 30 miles on Hwy 20 to Nevada City. These roads are up and down, and Highway 20 has several 30 mph hairpins. There are several steep uphill and downhill grades, which RV's typically go 30mph floored (up).
As indicated in my previous post, the reason I wanted the new GM was mostly because of the transmission. The previous GM 4 spds left much to be desired, since any uphills required 2nd gear, 4-5k rpm engine speeds to keep up with traffic.
I'm am really happy about how the Escalade handles the hills. I usually would manually hold gears in the old GM's, but in the 6 spd, I just put it in TOW mode, and it does some amazing things (IMO).
Going UP, the tranny would find a gear that did not require more than 3500 rpms (staying around 60mph). This meant that I could still STOMP on it, and get the next lower gear to pass (up hill).
Going DOWN, the tranny would dn-shift anytime you slowed down. The gear it will shift to depends on how much brake you are applying. On one stretch of brake smoking downhill, I would normally manually downshift into 2nd gear (old GM) just to maintain about 60. However, even with the trailer equiped with 4 whl discs, it would still require some brake pressue to maintain speed. The Caddy dn-shifted into a gear that kept the engine around 4k rpm, and I did not have to apply brakes.
It was a little un-nerving to have it do this at first, but once I understood the relationship between braking pressure, and the auto dn-shifts, it was welcome. No more using the shift selector to control speeds up or down. The OLD GM's would do too much gear seeking in just tow-mode, and this was annoying. Also, the Caddy's shifts are not as harsh like the tow-mode in the old 4 spd.
The "old GMs" I refer to is an '01 Denali and '05 Denali XL.
Dave
<img src="http://home.pacbell.net/borwick/img_2301.jpg"
My boat weighs right around 4800lbs and hills can be downright painful with my 5.3 4speed powered Suburban.
Thanks for the detailed report. It answered many of my questions. Sharp looking rig.
FYI: The factory tires with 20x8.5" rims are 275x55x20.
As for the off-set, the 2007 design requires a higher positive off-set than in previous years. The factory rims on a 9" rim (22x9) is 31mm (I have an '07 Escalade with 22x9 wheels).
The best you can do right now is find a 9.5" wheel, with at least 20mm to 36mm positive off-set. Otherwise, your tires will be outside the fenders, and throw water, mud, sand onto your mirrors and up the doors. Also, it makes the vehicle look odd, but that's a subjective opinion.
Good luck,
Dave
If thats the case then now Im stuck wondering... What damage could running the smaller rim width on a 305/50/20 do? I am now considering going to a 22" rim to help fill out the 305s. What sizes of rim and tire would you suggest in my searches as an owner of a similar vehicle with 22s? Another issue is tires... I want some that are aggressive enough to do well in dirt and rain but still would like a smooth and quiet ride. Any recs for brand and size for either 20 or 22" rims? Again thanks in advance for all help.
I would imagine that if you had a blowout, the tire manufacturer would not warrant such an application.
The "filling out" of a 305 isn't remedied by a larger diameter. This measurement is the width. If you go 20" or 22", you still need a wider rim.
The thing about going to a 22" rim is that you will need a lower profile tire, meaning 40 or 45 ratio. On the Escalade, they are running 285x45x22 on a 22x9 wheel. If you went to a 305x40x22 tire, then a 10" width is recommended. A 305x45x22 tire could get away with a 9.5" width. These "recommendations" come from an on-line tire vendor. You can also see the diameter differences that come about as well.
http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp
There are significant changes to diameter depending on the wheel combo you select. The difference in diameter in the 305x40x22 and 305x45x22 tires is over 1 inch. This changes the mileage attained and MPH readings as well. It's not simple to recalibrate the computer either. You have to buy an aftermarket programmer to do it, because the dealers typically won't do it. Long story.
Finally, you have to consider the ride quality. The more sidewall a tire has, the smoother the ride. A 40 Series tire is firmer than a 50 series, and so on. The benefit is that the lower profile (40 series) will have LESS sidewall flex, and theoretically makes the handling more precise.
The wider tires, 305 vs. a 275 or 285 has some disadvantage too. Because there is so much more width on the road, you "feel" more, and it also tends to "seek" grooves and ruts in the road. I put 305's on an '01 Denali, and was somewhat dissapointed in the steering because it would literally drive itself whenever there were imperfections in the road. I live in snow country, and tire chain usage creates ruts in the asphalt. The tire's edges would try to drive up the ruts, steering me left or right, which-ever had the higher edge.
The Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade rack & pinion steering should reduce this affect, but I can't say for sure. I don't get this senstation with my current setup. On the '01 Denali, I ultimately went to a 275x55x20 with a 20x8.5" wheel, and even though it didn't look as cool, it drove much better.
If I was in your shoes, I'd probably buy a 20x9.5 wheel, put on some Goodyear 305x50x20's, with a 25mm positive offset. The style would be one that had the lowest rim weight. A flashy wheel with lots of weight makes for poor handling. The best I've seen is a Weld Wheel EVO, which is a 1 pc, forged, chrome wheel, which is extremely lightweight, and several times stronger than most other wheels. Problem is, they are expensive, and hard to find. They have discontinued a few styles.
You can scan through www.DiscountTireDirect.com for some wheel styles.
Dave
link title
The fact that the 6spd has a lower 1st gear, and tighter shift ratios means they could get away with a lower final gear. This is what helps with the overal highway fuel economy.
Based on 8 yrs of towing my boat over the Sierra Nevada mountains, I would never consider a 4 spd again.
If I was looking for the ultimate tow and GVWR rated vehicle, it would have been a diesel pick-em-up truck.
However, I don't like diesel, and have two daughters and and 2 grand-kids. The SUV is a must.
Dave
I think I am one the right page and have found a good combo. What do you think about some 22x9.5 Helo Skids or Helo Kick with 20 offset paired with some 285/45/22 Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenzas? This way I get a nice looking wheel, the rim fits the tire better, there is a good tread pattern on the tire, and hopefully it won't stick out of the fender well.
Any comments?
Thanks again for your help/time!
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The 20mm offset will push the entire wheel out just a tad, but nothing brutal. The factory 22x9 is 31mm, which is 11mm more tucked, and with your 1/2" wider wheel, will put a total of 26mm further out. Certainly not life or death, but again consider the wheel width.
You might play with doing a 305x40x22 tire, which might be less expensive, but will look more agressive. The only drawback is that the tire is about 4/10ths of an inch smaller in diameter.
Your tire person may help you out here with this by letting you try it on for looks.
And yes, you'll have a "firmer" ride with the 40's.
Dave
As for the mileage, I'm not so sure that the real-world plays out like the EPA numbers say. I can get 21 mpg on flat road, doing 55 mph. At 65, it becomes 18.5. The DOD engine certainly sounds like it ought to squeak some mileage, but I've seen and heard numerous comments on the DOD kicking in/out, the harmonics being annoying, and many wishing they could disable it.
The differences would seem minor over the long haul, and I hate the feeling that I could have gotten something a little nicer. The resale is better on the higher end SUV's as well.
Dave
Having said that, I doubt you will lose your deposit. They can sell your LTZ to someone else if you do change your mind.
Thanks
Collins
I cancelled my Tahoe order after about a month and ordered a 2006 Explorer with the NAV system from the same dealer. Received my Explorer in about five weeks with the NAV system. Ford does not seem to have a problem building vehicles with this option.
We are investigating an '07 yukon XL or suburban. We tow a 4800 pd RV trailer in the summer(only) we are interested in the DOD but are worried about reliability of new technology. You indicate that you have heard numerous comments on the DOD. Is there a forum out there. We are trying to do some research. Thank you in advance for your help.
Steve
You can do some research right on this website by simply searching on "DOD". You'll have to wade through some threads, but you will start to see some comments such as I have.
I can't say that the 5.3 wouldn't do a good job. I used to tow my boat with a '96 Suburban 1500, which had a less powerful engine package (5.7 ltr 250hp/325ft/lbs). I never complained about the Suburban, but the Escalade is a big improvement.
Dave
Dave
The HP is only a component. Torque is more important. And there are considerations on the ability of the cooling system, transmission, axle ratio's etc. in handling the extra loads. You'll note that if you go with a 4.10 rear axle ratio, the towing cap goes up. Also, the 5.7 ltr engine produces more of its power at a lower RPM than the smaller 5.3 ltr engine.
In the older Suburbans, the greatest towing capacity came with a rear leaf spring suspension, and those ugly steel wheels. For good measure, they offered the 454 big block or diesel.
Maybe someone else on this post knows the inside scoop.
Dave
I would have to guess that its a matter of the newer platform, meaning frame, suspension, curb-weight, cooling, that is made them revise their ratings.
Dave
I see problems with this design
I have order a 2007 LTZ. I am having to to re think this
can any owners tell me there likes ans dislikes
thanks
My wife's BMW has a similar double seal on the rear doors, but they do a better job of hiding it.
Dave