Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to learn more!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I really didn't think much of it for a while, but I was reading a review of the civic Si on edmunds a while back and it seemed to mention this same type of problem.
Any input or knowledge of this issue would be appreciated!
F-H was great - they were even very patient when I threw a 1st class hissy fit at the service supervisor after learning they couldn't find a problem (they spent several hours over 2 days going through the Honda Troubleshoot procedure and trying to get the car to code again, but it wouldn't).
Their philosophy (and rightfully so) is that they won't replace a part unless they know it needs replacing so, so far, no repair and, at least for now, no more light.
I'm starting to give serious consideration to just replacing the whole throttle body - I'm told that would include the MAP sensor and the Throttle Position sensor, as well as the IACV - three of the four potential problem sources. Oh, and BTW, I was told that this model Accord V-6 has no Mass Airflow Sensor - that sensor's job is all handled by whatever the O2 sensors have evolved into.
Anyway, as always, ideas, thoughts, painkillers - all are welcome. In the meantime, I'm gonna drive it until it codes again and then either bring it back to F-H or wrap it around a pole and put myself outta this misery.
-FS
Sometimes it is the light (or the logic or input deciding to throw it) that is the problem. I guess that would be like getting a false positive?
Looks like you have 3 basic choices. Ignore the problem (reset the light if it bothers you), throw $$ at it until you replace the right part, or my personal favorite, drive on down to the dealer (while the light is out!) and trade the darn thing in!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Problem is, I drive the damn car so much that, by the time I can get it to the shop, the car resets. So, while they find the stored codes, they can't seem to get it to do it while its with them.
The only thing I've noticed is that it happened a lot last summer and then largely stopped as it got cold throughout the winter - starting again when it got warm this spring.
Its makin' me @#$%^U*( nuts!
-FS
can the dealer replace these starting with the fuel pump relay, then the ECU/PCM, then the fuel pump and see if one of them clears things up? it may be time to start swapping stuff.
When pressing the brake pedal it feels, AT THE VERY BEGINNING of its movement down, a slight "grinding" vibration, as if the pedal (or is there a cable?) needs some lubrication.
It also happens sometimes when I slowly lift my foot up. Also, there is a "click" sometimes when the pedal travels back up.
Any ideas?
Are you sure this isn't the issue?
Is this kind of testing and fixing (unless something is really "broken") still covered under warranty? I thought this kind of a problem is covered only during the FIRST year of ownership....
If you are not over 36,000 miles or 3 years, it is covered under the regular warranty. Bring it in to the dealer.
If they just replaced your calipers and rotors 2K miles ago, if you were anywhere near low on your pads...they would have replaced them as well.
If you want to get comfortable yourself, jack up the wheel and take the tire off, then look at the thickness of the brake pad, on both sides of the rotor.
I'm more likely to try swapping the entire throttle body first - that gets me a new IACV, a new TPS, and a new MAP sensor, all in one fell swoop. What do you think about that as a first plan of action?
While I agree that some experimental replacement therapy is in order, if I have to put $2,000 of guesswork into this car, I'm just going to drive it like it is for a while and then put $2,000 of downpayment on a new Nissan Altima 3.5 SE.
Thanks for the assist.
-FS
I have an 03 V6, and the pads are still good at 47k miles. For some people this is normal, for some it's not. We are obviously pretty easy on our brakes. :shades:
As far as the fluid changes, it would depend on what fluids they are talking about. I have changed my brake fluid, transmission fluid twice, and my coolant recently. The coolant probably wasn't necessary, but things I can't see (the inside of the engine, transmission, and radiator) I tend to be overly cautious about.
PS: I do my own maintenance, so I can afford to do it more often (cheaper). Use only Honda fluids
I have an '06 Accord SE with about 20K miles on it. As of last week, the SRS light starting coming on after I drive the car about 3 miles. It stays on until I shut the car off.
I took the car to the dealer yesterday and they said there were no error codes. They told me something as light as a cell phone on the passenger seat could set the light off. This morning I made sure NOTHING was on the passenger seat and (as I expected) the light came on after a few miles of driving.
Is anyone else having this issue? Thanks for any help!
Perplexed in NJ.
The paranoid part of my brain thought the dealer was just trying to get out of doing some work where I wouldn't be paying them. I'll take it back to them and get them to fix the problem.
Now a stupid question: this is my first new car. I've never had a car before this under any sort of warranty. Can I take it to any Honda dealership for this repair or does the warranty work have to be done at the dealership where I purchased the car?
ATF - Every 24,000 or 2 Years
Coolant - Every 24,000 or 2 Years
Brake Fluid - Every 36,000 or 3 Years
Power Steering Fluid - Every 36,000 or 3 Years
Coolant, and especially the brake and power steering fluid, are the most often ignored maintenance items, and should be changed on a regular basis. It's especially true for coolant/anti-freeze in an all aluminum engine as in Honda, as corrosion will follow once inhibitors start to deplete in the coolant. Replacement of brake fluid is most often ignored here in the USA, but is done regularly in Europe.
My 2006 V6 sedan has about 6800 miles now.
I notice an irritating vibration around 1500 rpm
on the gas pedal and steering wheel. Above 2000 rpm it is real smooth and I love the feel.
Vibration is more prominent when the engine is under load -
uphill for example. Around town I find myself around 1500 rpm several times unless I shift to D3
Has anyone faced something like this?
Thought it will go away after the engine breaks-in
and the first oil change..
I am going to visit the local dealer and have them check
it out.
- Richard.
The vibration seems to have worked itself out after several thousand miles and I'm still very pleased with my car.
Good luck!
With the manual it may be a bit different,
I think the manual versions have a dual stage variable intake that helps low-end torque.
I am starting to suspect the auto sedan has a little
inadequate torque at 1500-2000 rpm to pull 3400 lbs
comfortably in 4th or 5th gear, both of which are overdrive.
If the shifter had a D4 position, it might have helped..
Does anyone know what this is. I already checked the fuses and it is not that.
Thanks
A shot in the dark - good luck!
I see a few others have had similar problems. How was this resolved?
Where is the emotorcon with the eyes rolling back into the head.? I guess this will have to do. :P
Yeah, seems kind of silly since the 06 and 07 are pretty much identical.
Its guaranteed that in whatever part of the country anyone lives, the dealership's Service Advisor will insist that the customer's vehicle is driven under SEVERE, rather than NORMAL conditions. They sell a lot more premature oil changes, transmission flush jobs, belt changes, etc. that way.
The Owner's Manuals are weasel-worded just enough to create doubts in customers' minds.
Come vist SD. While not regular, we hit 121 in the shade last summer and -20 is a long way from breaking any records in the winter. So we are pushing both ends of the extremes.
So I went to the dealer, they drove it around, compared with some 07s on the lot and finally say it is "normal".
They were very courteous and all but perhaps a little hesitant to really spend time investigating..Saying remind them the next oil change.. It was a weekday and I did not have much time to spend there
Interestingly, I have found the vibrations are less intense if I start off by putting the tranny into "D" from "P", skipping R.. If I go P -> R and later D, the vibrations are more pronounced. Seems like engine or transmission mount related.
I have ordered the Accord Service manual and will study the behavior before going back to the dealer.
In the meantime, if anyone has any comments they are most welcome.
- Richard.
Let me know. thanx