I think I was the guy whose message on limp home you took to the dealer, LOL. I know my dealership (exclusively Hyundai) does take getting it right seriously and while they have on this Azera and my previous XG been occasionally clueless, they have always immediately tried to get it right and give me a little something extra for the trouble (car wash, touch up paint, etc.).
Think of yourself as a leader and teacher and you won't get quite a frustrated when it happens again.
All - I just leased a Limited with the Ultimate Package and floor mats for 15K miles per year with no money down for $457 - it includes taxes for Maryland (MD charges taxes on the capitalized price rather than just the depreciated amount so it adds another $30-$40 per month to the monthly rate). The important thing to note is that Hyundai is offering a $1,350 incentive for leases that expires April 2.
It's unfortunate that you cannot find this incentive documented anywhere but I dealt with a reputable dealer that told me about it.
Working on a deal right now on an '06 Azera Limited with Ultimate Pkg, Blue with Beige, at $22,536. Apparently as of 4/3, Hyundai started offering $2500 rebates on '06 closeout models. I floated the offer to another dealer who has the same car in Sage Green - hoping he'll match as I'd really prefer the Green over the Blue...
Apparently the dealership made a pricing error in my favor, combining some incentives that weren't supposed to be, but they honored the offer anyway. Out the door for $22,536!! Great dealer experience, too - picked it up late tonight, and the guys at the dealership all just wanted to go home. No one pressured me to buy all of the crap, and they even got me a bit better interest rate than I had found on my own. I have never had an easier, smoother car deal.
That's an astounding deal on a great car at what sounds to be an exceptional dealership. Enjoy the ride.
We also have a Venetian blue Azera, and like you weren't too crazy about the color, but we do get unsolicitated compliments on the car from people who are not car nuts. . . so there's something about it.
IMHO getting an Azera for $22,500 is one of the great card deals of our time - really. I had an '06 that was stolen, and I replaced it with a used 2004 Audi A6 twin turbo. The Audi cost $43,000 when new and is in perfect condition, but in almost all respects, I would take the Azerz over the Audi...
Congrat! That's a fantastic deal. Let us know what dealership you bought from since it sounds like they're honest and you had a good experience.
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RE: 521 Great deal! At $22536 OTD you have a good, fun car, with a fantastic warranty. Good luck! If you are interested, you can add the 07 upgrades for not too many bucks.
The dealer I dealt with was Rockie Williams Premier Hyundai in Lebanon, TN. As I indicated, I think I got a fluke deal, but was so impressed that the dealer stood by their offer, even if it was in error. This dealer is probably 60 miles from where I live, and I have to pass 4 other Hyundai dealers on the way, but I will do everything I can to push business their direction, including my own service whenever possible...
Not only were they straight up with me, but they worked to make the deal happen at 9:00 at night, and didn't pressure me at all to buy any add-ons. The entire sell was "Do you want the extended warranty? No? OK."
If only other dealers realized that if they treated their customers like that, we'd be theirs for life!!
Actually, I guess I should clarify my definition of OTD: $22,536 + $1477 Tax, $5 Title, $16 License transfer, and a $299 doc fee, but still a great deal.
Understand Hyundai just changed ad agency very recently. Just came across three commercials on TNT during Heat-Cavs game, all three comparative. Sonata vs what seems to be Camry, Santa Fe vs Jeep, and Azera vs..... Lexus?..... Didn't get sound on the TV at Outbacks, but looked like finally some spunk in the ad campaign....
ref 530 For future reference, out-the-door price is defined as total price "out-the-door" which includes car price plus TT&L (tax, title and license) + the infamous dealer documentation (doc) fee. Still a decent deal but not as good as you led us all to believe. Enjoy your new car!
Started looking around for a replacement for my 2002 Intrepid. Among others (Dodge Charger, Nissan Altima 3.5, Saturn XR), I am looking at the Azera. Yet to test drive it (waiting for a nice warm day since I test drove the Charger on a nice warm day... Just to level the playing field.. and not give unfair advantages to certain vehicles).
One of the dealers I am looking at is Manassas Hyundai (part of Brown dealership family, very big in Northern Virginia). They list 11 on their website, one 2006 Ltd, Venetian Blue, for 24,766, ten 2007 Ltd, one Aubergine for 24319, 9 others for between 25,600 and 26,500..
Anybody had any 'exposure' yet to that dealership by any chance?
Question for the owners/recent testers: does the newer version of the radio (the one with XM) offer an aux input jack (yet)?... I'm hooked on my IPod.. And don't want to use the cassette adapter...
I had my checkbook out, the car had been prepped, and I had actually begun to write the check when I noticed that the "deal" was actually exactly $1,000 MORE than the price the sales manager had agreed upon just a few days before! Really cute tactic, making the new price just $1,000 more, perhaps hoping that I wouldn't notice the discrepancy. And, the manager in question just happened to not be there on delivery day....I noticed the difference just in time. I made the same offer to Alexandria Hyundai, cautioning them not to pitch any "extras", extended warranty, etc., and said that if I could be out the door in less than one hour, they had a sale. I was, and the experience couldn't have been more pleasant. I considered Manassas Hyundai's ploy a classic "bait-and-switch" scam, and even though I live in Manassas, I wouldn't deal with those people on a dare! I'll bet you could get an even better price now than I did in late September, so be firm and see if Alexandria will honor your best offer. I paid an out-the-door price of $26,700 for a Limited with Ultimate package in late September.
It may have been a bad choice of words, but the information you provided was of great importance to me!
For the reason that this forum covers people and their cars throughout the country, and fees and taxes differ from counties and states, I myself find the actual sale price of much more use as a potential buyer.
Thanks for the heads-up (and also to washron). I will keep that in mind if/when it comes that far. Manassas Hyundai would be convenient (I live in Gainesville), but Fairfax Hyundai or even Alexandria Hyundai aren't that far out of the way.
Do either of you two by any chance drive a sage green with black interior?
You're right that the true purchase price (without ttl) is a great measuring stick. But then you'll see people say they paid 16K for an Azera, but they fail to mention that they got 8K for a tradein, but they're actually upside down anyway because they owed 12K on their old car.
I think the OTD price is still the best metric because that is what we're actually paying. IMO, that is the amount that should be negotiated when making a deal anyway. That way it's simple to tell if you're getting the same deal in the finance office, as compared to what was offered on the showroom floor.
If you don't like negotiating or want honest salesmen, the folks I worked with (Ben and Pete) at Fitzgerald in White FLint Rockville, MD are good. They sell their cars at invoice less holdback. On a Limited with Ultimate, that means you get the car for about $900 below invoice. While I'm sure they make a profit if for no other reason than factory finance and advertising assistance, there is probably not much more than $500-$700 left for you to "take" and that's a pretty fair deal. Some of the dealerships out there are still your stereotypical liars and I don't have time for that garbage. I was very happy getting the dealer holdback "given" to me. It also happens FItz was the only one in the area with the color I wanted (black).
Can you tell me what a hold back is? The dealers that I have spoken with here in the Chicago area are talking a few hundred over invoice so I would like to understand this other factor. Thanks!
What is the sales tax in MD nowadays on cars? I thought there used to be an issue if someone from VA bought a car in MD (not just cars but any kind of goods) then brought them over the stateline (as in 'the taxman cometh'..)
To go along with those deceptive practices, I am tired of seeing the extremely low sales prices of autos in the dealer newspaper ads, only to find out that included in the discount of the MSRP, is something such as $3000 customer cash.
Who are they kidding, since when did the $3000 customer cash not count as a downpayment and be included in the price of the car. What a sham.
MD sales tax is 5%. There is no issue that I am aware of if you live in 1 state and buy in teh other. YOu have tp pay the sales tax associated with your state. In the scenario you state, I assume you'd pay personal property tax based on the book value (sales price??) of your car at the end of the year or whever you get "hit". I don't know with any certainty since I've always lived in MD. At any rate, you would NOT be foreced to pay MD tax unless you registered the car in MD. I do know that MD delaters only charge a $99 dealer processing fee while VA dealers try to get $200-$300.
By the way, if no one has noticed, there is now a $1K rebate on new Azeras if purchased. Not sure if it applies to 2006 models. It just became effective on April 3.
A friend here in CT just verbally committed to a deal with Towne Hyundai in Denville, NJ fo '07 Azera Limited w/Ultimate. (His verbal committment is as good as written, he just has to send a deposit.)
Friend went to a local dealer earlier today. Local guy wanted about $900 more for an '06 after rebate (rebate on '06 is $2500, rebate on '07 is $1000).
Towne Hyundai has $189 doc fee. Local dealer, 2 years ago, had doc fee of $398.50 plus $500 for advertising. So now there is a $1600 lower cost for the '07 vs '06. Friend also wants the extended warranty: $7 or 800 at Towne and $1299 from the local dealer. The price now is over $2,000 less for the '07 Limited w/ XM that the local guy wants for a "left over" '06.
Hey guys, I've been reading this forum for a little while now and based on what some of you guys have paid I emailed some dealers and so far the best price I have been quoted is $25,673 for a Azera Limited with ultimate pkg. Is this a good price? (Seattle area)
Assuming that's for a 2007, I think that's a very good price. What was the MSRP on the vehicle?I am assuming that price reflects the $1000 rebate. My price was about $27,500 (no rebate) but still several hundred dollars below invoice. Without the rebate, your price is about $1500-1700 below invoice.
Sounds like a great price. Just watch for the doc fee and if there are any other fees to be added since these dollars are all net dollars in the dealer's pocket. For example $25,673 including all dealer fees vs $25,673 + $400 doc fee = $26,073. Doc fees can vary greatly from one dealer to another, so the doc fee should be included in your own cost comparison from one dealer to another. Plus some dealers charge an advertising fee while others do not.
If are are comparing dealers strictly within your state, all state fees should be the same. You should focus on the money you pay to and is retained by the dealership. But, your quote does sound great. Don't get hung up on the doc fee, just include it as part of the price.
I posted a long time ago on the Sonata forum that I bought my '05 Sonata from a dealer charging about $100 more for doc fee than another dealer. However, my purchase price was about $1800 less, so I didn't car how the dealer's accountant allocated the money.
Does anyone know if there are any updates or differences between buying a 2006 versus a 2007 model? There are a few 2006 models left on dealer lots that are heavily discounted. I was quoted just under 25000 + TTL for a 2006 Limited with Ulitmate and I'm sure they'd come off even more. Are there any drawbacks to buying a 2006. Is it more likely to have the knocking sound I've read about on this board? Thanks!
RE:551 The 07 includes the the puddle lights on the side view mirrors and better steering wheel controls for the audio system. The fact that it is one year newer and not the initial year of introduction will help the resale value. Some peoiple are dissapointed that the 07 does not have an alloy wheel, full size spare tire.
It would appear that Azeras with a build date after mid April of 2006 do not have the clunk - and only a few have it with a date prior to that. You can find the build date at the bottom of the drivers side b-pillar.
RE: 554 In my opinion, unless you perform 5 tire rotations, a full size spare is of little extra value. I would have gladly traded the full size spare for some other features that Hyundai omitted from the US version as compared to the car marketed in S. Korea.
In my last four new car purchases over a span of 22 years (Yes, I do generally keep my cars a long time), I've never had the space saver spare tire on the ground with any of the cars. I faithfully rotate the four tires in the proper radial tire rotation pattern (front to back, and vice versa - never diagonal), and never experienced a tire problem. In fact, with the experience I've had, none of the aforementioned cars would have even needed a spare tire!
Lost you bet. Chapter 8 page 10 of the 2006 Azera owners manual indicates that cars with a full size spare should have a 5 wheel rotation. Cars having a temporary spare naturally only can have a 4 wheel rotation.
The front right suspension clunk (sometimes rattle) occurs in a % of both 2006 and 2007 vehicles. However, the majority of complaints seem to come from the 2006 cars assembled in the first half of 2006. Hyundai has not acknowledged the problem and I doubt if they have made any changes. Some people have fixed the problem by adjusting and tightening the strut and lower arm assemblies. If you can find a "good" dealership they might even fix the problem for you.
Umm... my copy of the manual shows a choice between 5-tire and 4-tire rotation for the "Full size spare tire type." I'd also read elsewhere that if you don't specifically request the dealer to include the spare in a rotation, they will just do the diagonal etc. with the four on the ground...
The full size spare tire thing is an individual choice in my opinion.
It is good to have an extra spare wheel that may be (?) the same as the other four just in case one of the ground wheels in scratched or bent. In a case where a person must drive some distances after he has to mount the spare, as in being away from home while on a trip, it is nice to be able to speed along instead of limited to only 50 mph. Something to be considered for sure.
As far as you being "quoted just under 25000 + TTL for a 2006 Limited with Ultimate," that is way too much for any 2006! Many here have been quoted and bought in the $26K region for a 2007, and with a 2007, you can get exactly the color and equipment you desire. A left over new 2006 should be able to be bought for a price in the very low $20K range, and not anywhere in the $25K area.
Forget that "knocking sound" you read about. I believe that it was addressed long ago by the factory, and there may even be a TSB on it. Should a person be unfortunate enough to buy one that had it, it is rather easily corrected.
You decide, based on what you have heard and read here. It is to be your car, and I am sure whatever you do decide, you will enjoy one of these fine automobiles.
I guess we are beyond having bad tires come off the assembly line with steel belts failing prematurely and entire tread coming off in one piece (personal experience), but there are still road hazards that will kill a tire or just give you a flat. Using the small donut on a mountain road or for long stretches of 55 mph driving in the desert, ice or snow just doesn't appeal to me. Before my first trip on the highway in Texas I am going to have a full size spare in my 2007 Azera limited ultimate (450 nice miles so far)
I got 60,000 miles on my Highlander factory tires before getting new ones out of fear - I had never had tires that good before and could no longer trust them. I took the one with the best tread and used it for the spare. I bought 3 new tires and used the factory spare for the 4th. Your spare does not need to be a new tire considering the length of time it will be on the car if when you use it. I have always done this if all four tires last evenly.
There is a technical reason for moving radials front to back and I don't think a five tire rotation is proper. Why would they specify front to back rotation if Xing were ok. I have used this tire philosophy on every vehicle I have had with radial tires dating to 1973 and put over 100,000 miles on all vehicles including two 15 passenger vans and 3 makes of cars and it works well. From 1954 to 1973 I rarely had all four of a set of tires go to the full mileage or treadwear rating without at least one tire failure.
You got that many miles out of the factory Badyears? Amazing!
When I bought my loaded 2001 V6 Limited, I discovered that of all the tires listed on the TireRack for that size, they were the cheapest tire there out of more than thirty listed. Toyota even used them on the Lexus RX300.
I quickly switched over to 'Plus Ones' and Michelin Cross Terrains. What a difference!
Did you misunderstand? My point was that car manuals encourage crossing of tires from one side to the other when rotating, not the number of tires permitted in the rotation.
Also, does anyone know the true dealer cost of the 2007 Azera according to Consumer Reports buying info service? CR makes it sound as if it has info no one else has other than the dealers.
Comments
Think of yourself as a leader and teacher and you won't get quite a frustrated when it happens again.
It's unfortunate that you cannot find this incentive documented anywhere but I dealt with a reputable dealer that told me about it.
If you're leasing, this is a nice deal.
Apparently the dealership made a pricing error in my favor, combining some incentives that weren't supposed to be, but they honored the offer anyway. Out the door for $22,536!! Great dealer experience, too - picked it up late tonight, and the guys at the dealership all just wanted to go home. No one pressured me to buy all of the crap, and they even got me a bit better interest rate than I had found on my own. I have never had an easier, smoother car deal.
We also have a Venetian blue Azera, and like you weren't too crazy about the color, but we do get unsolicitated compliments on the car from people who are not car nuts. . . so there's something about it.
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Review your vehicle
Great deal!
At $22536 OTD you have a good, fun car, with a fantastic warranty.
Good luck!
If you are interested, you can add the 07 upgrades for not too many bucks.
Not only were they straight up with me, but they worked to make the deal happen at 9:00 at night, and didn't pressure me at all to buy any add-ons. The entire sell was "Do you want the extended warranty? No? OK."
If only other dealers realized that if they treated their customers like that, we'd be theirs for life!!
For future reference, out-the-door price is defined as total price "out-the-door" which includes car price plus TT&L (tax, title and license) + the infamous dealer documentation (doc) fee. Still a decent deal but not as good as you led us all to believe. Enjoy your new car!
One of the dealers I am looking at is Manassas Hyundai (part of Brown dealership family, very big in Northern Virginia). They list 11 on their website, one 2006 Ltd, Venetian Blue, for 24,766, ten 2007 Ltd, one Aubergine for 24319, 9 others for between 25,600 and 26,500..
Anybody had any 'exposure' yet to that dealership by any chance?
Question for the owners/recent testers: does the newer version of the radio (the one with XM) offer an aux input jack (yet)?... I'm hooked on my IPod.. And don't want to use the cassette adapter...
For the reason that this forum covers people and their cars throughout the country, and fees and taxes differ from counties and states, I myself find the actual sale price of much more use as a potential buyer.
Thanks again for the great info.
Do either of you two by any chance drive a sage green with black interior?
Mark
I think the OTD price is still the best metric because that is what we're actually paying. IMO, that is the amount that should be negotiated when making a deal anyway. That way it's simple to tell if you're getting the same deal in the finance office, as compared to what was offered on the showroom floor.
The dealers that I have spoken with here in the Chicago area are talking a few hundred over invoice so I would like to understand this other factor. Thanks!
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Who are they kidding, since when did the $3000 customer cash not count as a downpayment and be included in the price of the car. What a sham.
Have a great day.
Brad
By the way, if no one has noticed, there is now a $1K rebate on new Azeras if purchased. Not sure if it applies to 2006 models. It just became effective on April 3.
Friend went to a local dealer earlier today. Local guy wanted about $900 more for an '06 after rebate (rebate on '06 is $2500, rebate on '07 is $1000).
Towne Hyundai has $189 doc fee. Local dealer, 2 years ago, had doc fee of $398.50 plus $500 for advertising. So now there is a $1600 lower cost for the '07 vs '06. Friend also wants the extended warranty: $7 or 800 at Towne and $1299 from the local dealer. The price now is over $2,000 less for the '07 Limited w/ XM that the local guy wants for a "left over" '06.
If are are comparing dealers strictly within your state, all state fees should be the same. You should focus on the money you pay to and is retained by the dealership. But, your quote does sound great. Don't get hung up on the doc fee, just include it as part of the price.
I posted a long time ago on the Sonata forum that I bought my '05 Sonata from a dealer charging about $100 more for doc fee than another dealer. However, my purchase price was about $1800 less, so I didn't car how the dealer's accountant allocated the money.
The 07 includes the the puddle lights on the side view mirrors and better steering wheel controls for the audio system. The fact that it is one year newer and not the initial year of introduction will help the resale value.
Some peoiple are dissapointed that the 07 does not have an alloy wheel, full size spare tire.
I would hope that the new high-end Hyundai will have the full-size spare.
In my opinion, unless you perform 5 tire rotations, a full size spare is of little extra value.
I would have gladly traded the full size spare for some other features that Hyundai omitted from the US version as compared to the car marketed in S. Korea.
Chapter 8 page 10 of the 2006 Azera owners manual indicates that cars with a full size spare should have a 5 wheel rotation. Cars having a temporary spare naturally only can have a 4 wheel rotation.
It is good to have an extra spare wheel that may be (?) the same as the other
four just in case one of the ground wheels in scratched or bent.
In a case where a person must drive some distances after he has to mount the spare, as in being away
from home while on a trip, it is nice to be able to speed along instead of limited to only 50 mph.
Something to be considered for sure.
As far as you being "quoted just under 25000 + TTL for a 2006 Limited with Ultimate,"
that is way too much for any 2006!
Many here have been quoted and bought in the $26K region for a 2007, and
with a 2007, you can get exactly the color and equipment you desire.
A left over new 2006 should be able to be bought for a price in
the very low $20K range, and not anywhere in the $25K area.
Forget that "knocking sound" you read about.
I believe that it was addressed long ago by the factory, and there may even be a TSB on it.
Should a person be unfortunate enough to buy one
that had it, it is rather easily corrected.
You decide, based on what you have heard and read here.
It is to be your car, and I am sure whatever you do decide, you will enjoy one of these fine automobiles.
I got 60,000 miles on my Highlander factory tires before getting new ones out of fear - I had never had tires that good before and could no longer trust them. I took the one with the best tread and used it for the spare. I bought 3 new tires and used the factory spare for the 4th. Your spare does not need to be a new tire considering the length of time it will be on the car if when you use it. I have always done this if all four tires last evenly.
There is a technical reason for moving radials front to back and I don't think a five tire rotation is proper. Why would they specify front to back rotation if Xing were ok. I have used this tire philosophy on every vehicle I have had with radial tires dating to 1973 and put over 100,000 miles on all vehicles including two 15 passenger vans and 3 makes of cars and it works well. From 1954 to 1973 I rarely had all four of a set of tires go to the full mileage or treadwear rating without at least one tire failure.
When I bought my loaded 2001 V6 Limited, I discovered that of all the tires listed on the
TireRack for that size, they were the cheapest tire there out of more than thirty listed.
Toyota even used them on the Lexus RX300.
I quickly switched over to 'Plus Ones' and Michelin Cross Terrains. What a difference!
http://www.michelinman.com/care/tip2.html
Hope that helps.
Thanks,
kyfdx
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My point was that car manuals encourage crossing of tires from one side to the other when rotating, not the number of tires permitted in the rotation.
Also, does anyone know the true dealer cost of the 2007 Azera according to Consumer Reports buying info service? CR makes it sound as if it has info no one else has other than the dealers.