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Comments
Thanks in advance
I did it a few times for the heater controls...I did not touch the radio.
The problem that you were having with your kia sounds like alot like what I am experiencing, have changed alot of parts but still works the same, did you ever get to the root cause
then "shop"
choose your car model
browse at will.
here is what I got.
Thank you.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/avigex/speedsensor.jpg
however remote start/keyless entry/immobilizer are not detailed.
and please release the caps lock: very hard to read.
I have a 2002 Kia Sportage that a new battery will go dead in 24 hours. If I remove the FUEL PUMP RELAY or take the INJ FUSE out, then the battery will stay up to normal power. Any ideas? Thanks, Joe
it takes +12V from the Main relay....so this relay would have to be ON in the first place. Then the f.p. relay coil takes it ground side from the computer...so it would mean something weird on that side too....both at same time a very low probability.
circuit
The INJ fuse in fact cuts 12V to a lot of things, including the feed to the fuel pump relay power contact, which is then HOT at all times.
My guess is the fuel pump relay is stuck..power contacts are welded.
YOu could test that by removing the relay and testing the relay with an ohm meter or with a continuity tester between contacts 1 and 5. They are probably shorted.
Change the f.p. relay. (a frequent culprit).
Thank you again, and be well...
Thanks, Joe
YOu mean the ground side of the fuel pump relay coil is grounded permanently ?
Some one or the factory put a jumper across the relay output to the coil I remove IT and the car will not start.
WHich relay? We are still talking the F.P. relay? " IT" means the jumper of the relay?
THis is not clear....don't understand.
Anyway, this looks like patchwork....
Check action of the MAIN relay first when you turn KEY ON.
Follow the diagram for testing where and when +12V and ground are applied to relay coils.
When you describe your tests, mention relay name, diagram pin numbers and wire color to report your findings.
I was wondering if anyone can tell me where the fuel filter is located on a 2002 KIA Sportage 4x4? I can't seem to find a diagram anywhere, and it isn't listed in my book. Any help you can provide is GREATLY appreciated. I see you can purchase a fuel filter, I just need to know where to put it!
Thanks,
Sheri
This is in engine compartment, bolted on right hand frame low below battery (if you have battery on right hand side, of course; right hand drive models have battery on the left) I have checked mine for a better idea.. Honest.....I did not remember seing it....went to www.kiatechinfo.com (you can register for free for a lot of first hand info). then had a look at mine..had to peek for several seconds before finding it ...I think I would remove battery to get better access, of may be from the wheel well after removing tire.....
Is this simply preventive maintenance or is there a problem you think might be linked to filter ? mine is a 2000 with 62000 miles and no problem there (but I do not know of previous maintenance as I bought it at 42k miles) and will wait until necessary, I dont like the location
...ahhh..and I just found my fuel tank was leaking again.... :mad:
Am I looking at a switch problem, a regulator (motor) problem, or a relay problem? And where are the relays, anyway?
Thanks in advance.
Tim Colburn
Park Forest, IL
The computer uses its logic to turn ON a "driver" transistor that makes the ground connection. This transistor can be shot, or the logic has failed. some ECM's can be opened to replace discrete transistor, I do not know a bout ths one. Anyway, your "bypass" relay is a good option
Pull passenger witch, disconnect wire bundle, check for solid ground contact at 3 and 6 of wire bundle. If one fails, problem is with driver switch.
...
Check cam sensor connector, ground, +12V with key ON on all injectors green wire.
??? you mean on the green wire of the injectors?...THis should be dead with key off....
At this time, I have personnally had no problem of that type,. so this info is strictly based on the diagrams. Some measurements can lead to confusion as measuring voltage on a disconnected socket without any load can measure a stray voltage, specially with electronics, that would collapse as soon as a load is connected. So I suggest you make a connection on one of the green wires, and use it to feed a test lamp, the other side of the lamp to ground, then try key ON and OFF. YOu can use a spare parking bulb as a test light, not a stop lamp as their current is much larger and the injector drivers are designed for just 1 amp.
UNplug the MAIN relay for a test or pull out MAIN fuse out; and check those diagrams...specific to 2001 (the former one was 2000, most similar except BK/W wire .....
Black/white is feed to idle air control motor and should also be OFF with key off.
+12V to injectors and dile control comes from the main relay, not the F.P. relay. But if MAIN relay is frozen ON, then the F.P. relay will also be ON all the time. Since you have another relay available, replace the MAIN relay for a test.
Someone had a quite similar problem recently on this or another forum, However this condition as such would not stop the car from starting....but it would drain the battery if car was left alone for some time.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/avigex/relays2001.gif
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/avigex/injectors2001.gif
CHeck under the seat for traces of water to the computer. The MAIN relay always has 12V on one side of its coil, and the other side of coil is grounded at KEY ON by the computer (located lower right side trim panel below the instrument panel, on the passenger side of the vehicle).
Cam sensor is part of the injection circuit, and has been suggested several times in similar cases, but I can't remember if one came with a definite solution saying that "the cam sensor was the culprit"....
It is not clearly documented with this engine, but in my other car, a faulty cam sensor will just cause "random" injection and the car will run anyway, but then , it could give a "running rough" feeling....
But this would pop a code, anyway....
Check al connectors....and another forum member had found broken/shorted wires at the firewall near the computer .
if you can truly help please email me. tracieeo@bellsouth.net :sick:
if you can truly help please email me...
That would deprive others of valuable information - let's keep the discussion here!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Abot you engine "quitting", what is mileage? above 65,000 miles, the timing belt is an almost mandatory maintenance item, and when the belt quits, that's just it: car stays there, and this is a very common occurrence.
If you meet or exceed above conditions, pull front timing belt cover and check belt.
I know how frustrating working on KIA's can be. They are rather difficult to work on. Just in case you haven't tried already, have you contacted KIA directly for help? I know the dealerships want to charge and arm and a leg, so you might want to try KIA directly. Also, craigslist has been informative for me. I don't know how much luck you will have with your situation, but it might be worth the effort.
They make these cars almost impossible for one to work on. I have a 2002 KIA Sportage, and I regret the day I purchased it. It's been nothing but one big headache, and you can't even do simple repairs, like for example, give a tune up because you need a special "tool". I've always had to take it in, even for this simple repair.
I wish you luck, and I am sorry this has happened to you.
P.S. You may get more takers, if you post on craiglist. It doesn't seem like this website gets as much activity as you would think it would.