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This is what I get when clicking on that empty album to delete
-Rocky
Back out, maybe shut Edmunds down totally, then come back in and see if you can delete it.
Programmers never find that last bug in a program.
-Rocky
Try posting your question there!
regards,
kyfdx
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Seriously, a smaller more manageable car is more prudent for less experienced drivers. It does not have to be a hybrid to be environmentally sound. May I suggest a Honda Fit, Scion xD, Hyundai Elantra, or Mazda 3? All are nice cars which get over 30MPG. Good luck!
I say "my", but it's a bunch of tips gathered from other forum members.
There's a lot of discussions here that start out "Buying a Used" - Murano/Accord/A4, etc. Try a search for them.
The granddaddy discussion would be Purchasing Used Vehicles.
Sorry I am not sure if this is the best place to post this question, but couldn't find any better place to ask.
I am pretty new to the auto world and certainly to purchasing/leasing a new vehicle. I am currently considering lease a car. I noticed websites like leasetrade.com, leasetrader.com and swapalease.com which offer me to get into the middle of a current lease. This seems like a very good idea (price-wise), as I get to skip the down payment, part of the monthly payments, and also I get the option of purchasing the vehicle at the end which is usually pretty good (I think?). So why not do it!? Am I missing something here? Are there any particular cons in getting a car from those channels? I really appreciate any help.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I opened up a new discussion. You can find it here: Lease Swapping Questions and Answers
Let's see how it goes!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thanks for any and all recommendations.
Low End Sedans (under $16k)
And while you're in the Sedans board, scan the list. There are some other discussions there that may help you narrow your choices down.
Here's another discussion that may help:
Purchasing Used Vehicles
And there are lots of "Buying a Used _______" discussions so if you narrow your search down to one make/model, try the Search Forums box on the right sidebar to see if there's a topic about it.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
Personally, I would use an independent body shop with a good reputation first, and a dealer body shop second. Both will guarantee their work in writing. I would never allow "backyard body work" on my vehicle.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
I would also strongly recommend you take the other motorist to small claims court for the $600 you are out by having it fixed at Toyota (or wherever you end up going)
So sorry to hear about your accident, but at least you are okay.
To answer your immediate question, it is worth it to fix the car.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
A discussion thread here is just a post that takes off on another course or angle.
If you want to start a whole new discussion, that's easy too. The Help link explains it better than I can.
Please reply if you get stuck.
Is there a forum where somebody lists and updates the rebates for the various auto's? If so can I have the address of the site?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I was shopping for a Honda today and a dealership wanted to sell me a "new" car that already had 190 miles on it. They claim it was a trade with another dealership that was driven here from another state. Is this normal practice? Or is this car basically a demo/test drive car that has been driven hard? Advice, please!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
Great forum btw!
I am return my leased minivan to Nissan - due 9/18.
My vehicle registration is due and up for renewal in August.
Can I turn the vehicle in w/o renewing my registration?
Thanks in advance!
General Questions about Leasing
"I am return my leased minivan to Nissan - due 9/18.
My vehicle registration is due and up for renewal in August.
Can I turn the vehicle in w/o renewing my registration?"
Your lease is up on Sept 18, and your registration is due in August...were you implying that you would turn in the vehicle early so as to avoid having to pay registration for another year???
If you turn the car in before the registration is due, I would assume that you do not have to renew the registration...if you keep the car until Sept 18, you run the risk of driving on an expired license plate, which, here is Georgia, can be expensive if you are ticketed...
Here in GA, if you renew the registration and turn in the car the following month, I believe that registration fee (actually, here it is called an ad valorem fee, as we pay a tax on the value of the vehicle, a tax which goes down every year as the vehicle depreciates) will actually carry over to your next vehicle for the next 11 months, assuming that you purchase another vehicle to replace the leased vehicle...
==============
What should my strategy be?
- cash payment
- no good at haggling, no time for games
- timing – test drive, rebates, demand surge from cash for clunkers
Hi, everyone. I believe the answer I’m seeking doesn’t apply to any one brand. I’ve also read the car-buying strategy guide, but am not sure how certain things apply to me and the current times.
I’m in the NY metro area, never bought or owned my own car, and have gotten by without a car for several years now, but I’m going to need one within the next couple of months (would’ve preferred to have had one a few months ago, but I’ve gotten by). I’m also in the beginning stages of buying a house.
I wish to pay for my car (Corolla / Civic / Mazda 3) in *cash*, and since I’ll be applying for a mortgage soon, I’d strongly prefer that my credit not be checked by the dealer lest such an inquiry lower my score.
And since I don’t have time for the usual car-buying games that I hear about, or that much willpower in terms of haggling, I’m tempted to go the fixed price route to buy (e.g., carmax, AAA, Costco). Although I won’t get the absolute best deal, would this be a reasonable option for my situation?
Alternatively, I can pit dealers against each other through the internet as is commonly recommended, but then a few other questions arise
- If I play the strategy by-the-book and wait until the last possible minute to say that it’s a cash purchase, is it likely that the price originally quoted won’t be honored since it might assume a profit off financing that won't happen? I’d hate to waste time pursuing an unrealistic deal.
- The test drive - The car that was originally my first choice, 2010 automatic Corolla S in blue, seems rather rare and I’ve been reading quite a few bad things about its power steering. I’d hate to go through the trouble of a bidding war only to test drive it and learn that it drives like a shopping cart. I’m not sure when to do the test drive. I’m afraid that if I just walk in and ask for one, that that sales person would be the one handling my sale and not the internet person, who seems to be more willing to negotiate.
I suppose I could find a dealership that I have virtually no interest in buying from to do it, but the steering issues seem to occur at highway speeds, and this place isn’t anywhere near where I’d be able to do even 55 mph.
Lastly, I’ve had trouble timing this whole thing. I first decided on the Corolla at the very end of June, when they were giving $500 cash back on the ‘10’s. There’s no way I would’ve had my finances in order to complete a purchase by the time that offer expired, so I waited out the unimpressive July deals and now I’m stuck in August. This cash-for-clunkers thing has really put me in a bind. I’m not sure if cash-back rebates are typically only for those who finance with the car company. If they are, then that won’t factor too much into the timing (meaning I wasted a month for nothing) . But, with the surge in demand for compact cars, I have much less negotiating power than I did just two weeks ago. And, there aren’t even rebates on the ‘09’s anymore. Should I wait all this out – maybe even until the ‘10’ Civics come out, or should I just get this purchase over with knowing that the market may be recovering?
OK, I’ve analyzed this to death. If anyone has any ideas to share, I’d greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
Good luck!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I want to sell my vehicle and I have done some online research on what I would need to do step by step.
I learned that I need to have both parties fill out a Bill of Sales as well as form DTF-802 - statement of transaction before I transfer the title.
I have a few questions:
I know I have to take the plates off of the car, but what do I do about the window sticker that has the registration expiration date on it?
With the tax form, do both parties pay tax on the transaction or just one (seller? buyer?)
When I turn over the title, I know i should sign it and date it and record the odometer reading on the back, is that all I do there?
Thank you very much for your help, as you can tell, i have not done anything like that before and I thought it would be smart to ask. Thanks again