Chevy Silverado Problems

dustyone · February 2001

My '00 Silverado 5.3 engine came with AC-Delco platinum tip plugs. They are going to be replaced (at 10K miles) with NGK's from NAPA.

dieselnut · February 2001

Has anyone experienced a vibration or shimmy at the rear of the bed with 2001 Duramax/Allison extended cab long bed with about 1200 miles from new? Any known fixes or mod?

jed1894 · February 2001

Yes, there will be another Silverado in my future when the warranty expires on this one. However, I think I might lease the next one and switch out every 3-4 years (50k miles or so) from then on. Haven't decided yet.

I test drove Ford and Dodge and did not like them at all. So far, I can't complain too much about GM..or should I say BBB. I don't think GM would have done anything for me without the help of the BBB. Anyway....I guess I'm just a Chevy man...also.....chicks dig em! .........

John

piperboy72 · February 2001

Hello List!

This is my first post after browsing for a bit. I am very excited to see such a great resource and I look forward to participating here.

I have a couple of issues I wanted to bring up and see if anyone has experienced anything similar.

1 - My rear left brake sticks after setting and then releasing the parking brake in freezing weather.

2 - The power steering fluid is being gradually "used" up somewhere. I have topped up once after the fluid dropped below the dipstick and now the level appears to be falling again. There seems to be seepage around the box where the steering shaft meets the rack. However I have never seen any power steering fluid on the ground.

3 - Occasionally in very cold weather (<10 degrees F) there will be a low thumping noise that is related to vehicle speed and not engine speed. Tapping the brakes seems to make it go away.

4 - I got my first oil change at the dealership and they installed a PF52 oil filter, but my truck originally came with a PF47. Does anyone know what should be used on a 2000 4.3?

Well that's all I wanted to bring up for now. I also saw a couple of older posts with references to TSB's. Is there somewhere online where I can browse all the TSB's for my truck?

Thanks in advance for any help or comments.

Pickett · February 2001

Pickett · February 2001

I just bought an '01-LT, ext.cab 4x4 with 5.3 engine. The main gripe is a noise that seems to come from the defrost vent area on top of the dash or in the dash. It sounds like a plastic tarp flapping in the breeze. It only comes up about 70+ mph. Also get a steering wheel squeak like a rubber bushing against metal when it is very cold and the heater hasn't warmed up the cab yet. Any ideas to help me out. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet. Limited faith there. I think it helps to go in with an idea of what you want checked. The truck has under 2000 miles on it. Thanks for any ideas.........!

erikheiker · February 2001

I live in Alaska and it's common knowledge up here that you never set the parking brake in freezing weather. I know someone who ignored that advice and they wound up dragging their rear wheels until someone next to them at a stop light pointed it out. I rarely ever use my parking brake. Just avoid steep hills and the parking pawl will hold just fine.

john294 · February 2001

I received my 5yr 60 k ex warr. from GM resently and was dismayed by the fact that it started at purchase date of truck ,I called both GM and BBB to complain with my reasoning being that 3yrs 36k came with truck and the 5-60 should be extra,they both said no thats not how it works,so basicly I just wind up with a additional 2yr 24k ext warr added to to 3-36k factory warr.,has anyone else expereniced this???I feel Ive been cheated.....

kdgiv · February 2001

I purchased my truck at the beginning of last year and have had it in for the same problem 3 times. I have 29,400 miles on it now. It is a 2000 Silverado with a 4.3-liter vortex engine and a 5-speed manual transmission, single cab, short box. It has a hesitation while accelerating @ apron. 2200-2500 rpm, on carder accelerating it sometimes looses partial power between 2500-3000 rpm. The hesitation is most noticeable in 3rd and 4th gear on normal acceleration, shifting between 2500-3000 rpm. The partial loss of power is most noticeable in 2nd and 3rd gear, shifting between 3000-3500 rpm. Both problems are most noticeable while running the A/C. After running the A/I for an extended period of time, the engine rpm will hold or stick at 2000 rpm while costing and coming to a stop. The rpm will stay at 2000 rpm for up to 10-15 seconds then drop to normal idle.
The first time I had it in, the computer did not report a problem code. On my description of the problem, the auto etch replaced the A/I compressor. That did not solve the problem. The second time in, the computer did not report any problems again. The auto etch checked for etch information on the truck, and found that the computer needed to be reset, or re-synchronized. After that, the truck performed better (seamed to produce more horse power and accelerate better), but still had the problem.
The third time in, I took the auto etch for a ride to make sure he knew the problem. He did feel the problem, and drove the truck back to the service department and could reproduce the problem. He tried reading the computer again and did not get any problem codes. He pulled spark plugs and did not detect any problems. He told me that they could not find the problem and would contact Chevrolet about it and I could call back later this week.
The same auto etch has worked on it each time.
I do not know what else to try and the service tech seams not to know either.
Please Help!!!!!!

chebytrk · February 2001

Have a 2001 1500, Ex. cab, 2wd and all is OK so far. My question is "what should my oil pressure gauge actually be reading?" On highway it's almost maxed out (2 ticks from max). In town it's about 8 ticks from max. I thought it was supposed to stay very close to midway (40). Dealer says all is fine as long as it doesn't go BELOW 40. Also how about ideas for reducing wind noise in cab down the highway.

obyone · February 2001

get a gallon of silicone and go to work on all the weatherstripping. Oil pressure seems high. Could be the sensor or the gauge. Did the dealer even bother to check the oil pressure?

jed1894 · February 2001

Yep, that's the way it is. I didn't like it either, but I asked the same question and had the same complaint. As far as I know, there's nothing you can do about that issue. That's why I pushed for the 6/100 warranty....it gave a little more time.....

John

ckulus · February 2001

Hello:

I went to a website recommended here: http://calid.gm.com/vci/html and entered my trucks VIN and got back various calibration histories for things ranging from Operation System Software to Transmission Calibration to Speedometer Calibration. In all there were 8 of these. Four of them had 2 listings and the rest only one. Can someone explain this to me? Do I need to have all 8 done, or only the ones with multiple listings, or only the ones that I notice are wrong?

Thanks,

Chet Kulus

ckulus · February 2001

Hello:

I went to a website recommended here: http://calid.gm.com/vci/html and entered my trucks VIN and got back various calibration histories for things ranging from Operation System Software to Transmission Calibration to Speedometer Calibration. In all there were 8 of these. Four of them had 2 listings and the rest only one. Can someone explain this to me? Do I need to have all 8 done, or only the ones with multiple listings, or only the ones that I notice are wrong?

Thanks,

Chet Kulus

obyone · February 2001

Some of the listings are the original when first programming at factory. Your dealer will not reprogram unless trying to solve for a specific program.

titus1 · February 2001

gauge is for reference. as long as it doesn't go to 0 all of a sudden you will be fine. just because it maxes out doesn't mean that it's too high. where did that come from anyway?
Rick

obyone · February 2001

I was trying to figure out if Majorguard is accepted by all GM dealers? If so, could we go to a GMC dealer for work to be done? Since it runs concurrently with the factory warranty, would coverage under Majorguard be better than the 3/36 from the factory in terms of selecting a dealer to work on your vehicle?

jed1894 · February 2001

Those are very good questions....and I don't have an answer. I do know that all dealers accept Majorguard...according to GM when I got mine......

John

jed1894 · February 2001

What about the GMPP? Is that the same as Major Guard? I think (not sure) that the GMPP is for power train warranties.....?????

John

obyone · February 2001

Sorry, never heard of GMPP. Still trying to figure out the Major Guard. LOL!!

Reason I asked was that I was thinking of taking my truck to my GMC dealer who services my Denali, but when I thought about it. Doesn't make much difference as both are marginal at best. Heard they are tops in the state which really has me worried now....

onepat · February 2001

help anyone, I have a serious wind and road noise on the drivers side. I noted the noise to the dealer on deli. he told me to bring it in they would fix it. They had it for two days, all they did was tighten the door, not much better, another dealership with wind noise expert no help. I tried duct tape around the door and rear window, no help. I had the service person put fiberglass insulation in the trim at the rear of the door, no help. The plastic trim from the door to the rear window is like a large sound chamber and I think I will have it filled with foam sealer, maybe at a different dealer. The third I will have tried. Great truck however the road and wind noise is driving me nuts and I don't hear well.

rsss · February 2001

I agree with 209. I thought I was getting the 5 yr/60 in addition to the regular 3/36. I guess it is their wording and a play on words. They are trained on how to do these things.

rsss · February 2001

#207, I have the same problem, mine starts at much slower speeds. 1st time I heard it thought door wasn't closed, stopped to check. It is very load, hate to be on a long distance trip with it.

Anyone with an answer to fix?

paintdude · February 2001

I was told about the warrenty like this..an example: If you spill a drink on the door electric controls and they quit working or stick,etc..It isn`t a manufacturing defect so your regular warrenty wont pay for it..But with Major Guard you are covered..No questions asked...that was what I was told...

ken0 · February 2001

Ran a search and did not find problem so here it is;
Took delivery of 1997 Chev. Silverado in Jan 1997. (Ext.cab w/tow package and positraction rear end) in March 1997 (700 miles) the dealer replaced the rear end - (excessive growling)
Last week - Feb 2001 , 4 years and 61,000 miles due to excessive growling , the pinion bearing was replaced ((No warrentee natcherally) running fine now . Today had tires rotated on regular rotation basis and found very excessive wear on inside of right rear tire. (If it had been front tire pinion bearing I would have sworn it was toe in)
Question is : Could a worn pinion bearing have caused this?

ken0 · February 2001

too late to edit but line just before my question should not have "pinion bearing" in it . It should read "(if had been front tire,I would have sworn it was toe in)" - sorry 'bout that.

pfilips · February 2001

Need to know what kind of reliability and mechanical problems that I can expect from a 1998 4x4 that will be used off road HARD and heavy pulling. Do the clutches hold up? Will I be better off with an auto.

pfilips · February 2001

Need to know what kind of reliability and mechanical problems that I can expect from a 1998 4x4 that will be used off road HARD and heavy pulling. Do the clutches hold up? Will I be better off with an auto.
Pfilips@hotmail.com

cowgirl2 · February 2001

purchased new 2001 chevy LT silverado 2500 hd 6000 vortec dec.28,2000, truck ran great till after first oil change 3500 miles febuary 15 2001, next day had a bottom end banging since , so the dealer puts it up on the rack and listens manualy shut down pistons and said its # 7 is bad, so they have to call GM tech for advice ,HAHA, so get a call today Gm tech advises service to drop oil pan and look at the pistons they have a mark on them if the marks do not line up on #7 then it was put in backwards then service would have to take piston out rotate 180 degrees and put piston back in this should cure the problem, But If they do line up sounds like new engine. I am very un happy with GM this truck has on 3500 miles and we have to play this game. I wonder who put my truck together the day it was made, any one else had this problem, Very Unhappy

cowgirl2 · February 2001

I have been getting conflicting stories from the same service guys every time, they say I dont want someone tearing apart my new engine and then they want to tear it apart, then I get GM doesn't want us to break down new engines, then I get a call GM tech wants us to drop oil pan and check pistons, I have 3 file numbers on this truck, have spoke with GM and I am really ticked off, this truck is brand new, then they say new engine, well then my mileage will never be right for the rest of the trucks life, will numbers match and god knows what I will have to go through with new engine no guarantee of leaks any were, should I have to go through all this with a new truck with 3500 miles, then they put on the rack and found # 7 piston is bad, they have to call GM tech for help, GM tech tells them the 23rd that to drop oil pan look at pistons they have marks on them if the mark doesnt line up on #7 then it was put in backwards, to take out that piston out rotate it 180 degrees and replace it that should clear the problem, but if the pistons do line up the service man said who knows what the problem could be,thats when he said new engine, I have only the BBB or states attorney to speak with next, And from the 15th till the 22 they kept saying the noise was normal, I guess they think we are stupid, I think I have the right to either get a new truck or they can have theres back... any advice or suggestions would be helpful.. well i take truck in on febuary 26,2001 to see if the pistons line up or not, THank you for letting me vent

obyone · February 2001

new engine or new truck. If they say new engine, make sure you mark the block in an inconspicuous place... seems it going to be hard to trust this dealer... even GM for that matter....

onepat · February 2001

has anyone had success with the wind and road noise as in 222 if so please advise

ken0 · February 2001

posted about rear tire wear on a 97 Silverado last night , signed off and came back later and looked at it ,. Today I cannot find my posting.What happened? Sure would like to find out if bad pinion bearing in positrac rear end would cause right rear tire to wear on the inside(just like a bad toe in on front)

ken0 · February 2001

found original , don't know why couldn't see it before (#226) Still need to know about wear on tire

obyone · February 2001

I couldn't understand this statement, "The plastic trim from the door to the rear window is like a large sound chamber....." What plastic trim? Which door? Kind of hard to provide a solution when you don't understand the question. GM is very generous with the plastic trim or otherwise with these trucks.

ken0

Anything is possible, when speaking of a positrac, I'm assuming you're describing a locker and not a limited slip. With a locker, both rear wheels should turn at the same speed. If it is not working correctly, it could cause abnormal wear on the rear tire as the tire would bind on a turn. I would think that it would be noticeable if this happened with enough frequency to cause the wear you describe as you would have a scuffing effect.

onepat · February 2001

this is a re cab sb, the trim I'm talking about is at the B column from the floor to the roof about 10 inches wide from the door to the rear of the cab. It has the rear speaker in it. Cross wind noise is very bad and rear tire road noise is also loud. Drivers side is much louder then right side. I looked way back in Silverado problems and found that it a cure might be to have the door re hung? Do you think a GM body shop would do this under warranty

obyone · February 2001

There are several TSB's concerning ill fitting doors. However, I believe they all pertain to the extended cabs. What you may need to know is that I had my passenger front and rear door adjusted by a body shop which was subcontracted by my dealer to adjust the latches so that they close with less effort...and seal better at the same time. They cannot rehang the door because the hinges are welded. The TSB for breaking the welds and installing bolts only pertain to the C/K series which also had lousy fitting welded hinged doors. When you duct taped the doors to test for the wind noise, did you tape from the outside or inside? If you taped the outside, you may want to tape the inside to double check if the wind noise does go away. Another area to check is the vents at the rear of the cab which are supposed to relieve the air pressure when closing the doors. If the flaps are placed incorrectly, they also could leak air. Hope this helps.

obyone · February 2001

If you noticed ken0 eventually found his original post as he mentioned in post #235. Hmmm...slipping are we? lol!!

ken0 · February 2001

Poca - I torry , I better at building doll houses than doing chats

rhymas · February 2001

It is very suspicious that you started having problems right after your first oil change. Who did the oil change? Was it the dealer? I think it is very possible someone fired the engine with no oil in it. If that happened, whoever did it owes you a new engine.

rdavenport1 · February 2001

rotate piston 180 degrees? what about the banging noise you are now experiencing? surely there is some damage, and i'd settle for nothing less than a new engine and extended warranty.
here to help
Rick

markbuck · February 2001

2500HD's of the 4x4 6.0L CC LB 5speed variety?

Mine is in on W, will be driving it W or Th. What should I watch out for?

obyone · February 2001

Cowgirl2, I'd seriously contemplate switching dealers. Next time in ask the dealer how can you flip a piston 180 degrees and still get it to work. These guys are way too much.

cowgirl2 · February 2001

I had the oil change done by the dealer it was its first oil change and dealer did it free of charge, GM dealer chevy did oil change, well today the took the oil pan off and all piston marks line up , so the service man says he has to call GM, the # 7 piston knocking noise is caused by the piston,rodand wristpin know he says, something to do with clearence, and specs, I am waiting to hear from him,he said hes calling GM said he didnt think they could order a pistin rod and wrist pin, so he was also going to check ordering new engine, i said New truck or new engine , i he gives me new engine I also want courtsey GM the GM protection plan major guard also for my inconviences, They keep saying its not a duability problem, well when i show up this afternoon im bring my video camera with me because i want this on tape and im getting writters cramp, at this point im ready to rumble im tired of being jerked around one thing to the next, im not paying $36,000 to be GM techs guinea pig, they are not going to take heads off and whatever else lets say enigine overhaul with 3000 some miles and say there is no damage and fix this problem, there is so much more to this i can not write it all down , but i think you guys get the idea of what im getting told one thing then another....

wbcbrew · February 2001

I have a white '93 Chevy C2500 that's flaking saucer sized paint off the hood and several other locations. It appears as though the primer and paint might be incompatible as it's leaving the underlying gray primer in perfect condition . In other areas the paint remains in perfect condition. The body is in perfect condition. I have noticed several other Chevy trucks exhibiting the same phenomena. Anyone out there know what's up? Have you had similar problems?

onepat · February 2001

I had the same problem with a 94 blue silverado. It's a very long story. Short answer your out of luck. When you have it painted just make sure they strip all the old paint. It seems to have been a problem with the paint adhering to the primer. It was an ongoing problem with GM in the 90s

obyone · February 2001

I didn't know that the 6.0 was affected too. Thought it was specific to the 5.3 only. I would pursue the Major Guard. At least you will have peace of mind to 6 years or 100,000 miles. You may have to go through the BBB to get it though.

blacksilver · February 2001

None of my trucks did it, but back in early 90's my wife's Berretta (metallic gray) flaked like that. I think it was a problem in some GM metallic paints back then.

Hans

gvw1 · February 2001

I have been reading all the messages concerning Silverado's and Sierra's.....I have been a Ford person, but am looking at buying a Silverado 2500HD with the "Duramax" engine. I am concerned about all the vibration problems with the Silverado"s. Is it a tire problem or a V8 engine problem. Any additional info would be greatly appreciated.

hunter98 · February 2001

GVW1, go to thedieselpage.com, they have a great forem dedicated to the Duramax and 2500HD trucks. The vibration problem has been limited to the 1500 GM trucks, mostly with 2wd. They have been a few problems with people and haveing the 2 piece driveshafts vibrating. I think it looks like a great truck, I have test drove several and they are very impressive. I am looking to trade my 2000 1500 GMC SLT Ext cab 4x4 sb 5.3L for a 2002 2500HD Crew Cab SLT 4x4 Duramax/Allison, next may.

Good luck

Hunter

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